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Aluminum Fuel Gas Tank 47 Gallon Boats for sale
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47' 2010 Sea Ray 470 Sundancer T
$499,990
New York, New York
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Posted Over 1 Month
PRICE REDUCED by additional 25K for a total of 100K off for QUICK SALE. Call Brad McCabe (the on site broker) 516-232-6395 for an appointment to see this pristine sport yacht with T - Cummins MerCruiser QSB 425 Diesel Zeus drives. Enjoy stress free joystick docking and a myriad of deluxe comforts and upmarket features. MFR: Our 470 Sundancer is destined to be an instant classic. How do we know? Because it is packed stem to stern with winning design features and innovations, including standard Zeus 360 Control pod drives with an intuitive helm joystick for stress-free docking. Plus, there is an enclosed helm with two independently retractable sunroofs, offering the ultimate in weather protection and climate control. This luxurious Sundancer will change the way its owners boat forever, guaranteed. Draft: 3 ft. 6 in. Beam: 14 ft. 0 in. Fuel tank capacity: 350 Water tank capacity: 100 Holding tank capacity: 42 Hull color: Navy/White Standard features: ~Key Features Standard Cummins MerCruiser QSB 425 Diesel Zeus drives. Custom euro-style helm seat with flip-up, thigh-rise bolster, armrests, and heavy-duty pedestal with slide, swivel and pneumatic vertical adjustment, and fiberglass seat shell. Companion bench with molded fiberglass storage. Electrically actuated engine compartment hatch. Sirius satellite receiver with antenna (N/A outside N. America) 12V AM/FM single CD with six-disc CD changer, eight (8) speakers and digital cockpit remote control. U-Shaped aft seating with storage. Standard VHF radio. Sea Ray Owners Club membership (available in USA & Canada). Cockpit wet bar with sink and faucet, solid-surface countertop, stainless-steel handrail, trash receptacle, and storage cabinet. Standard LCD drop-down flatscreen TV with DVD in salon. Innerspring mattress in forward stateroom. Separate shower and head. Ultraleather HP standard on all interior seating. Standard generator with sound shield. Water manifold system with shut-off valve. Underwater exhaust. Large extended swim platform with heavy-duty stainless-steel swim ladder. ~Air Conditioning / Heating Custom Integral Vent Systems Zone-Controlled Reverse-Cycle System Zone-Controlled Reverse-Cycle System ~Cabin Features Blinds, Wood Carbon Monoxide Monitors Carpet Carpet Runners, Interior Lighting, 12V Lighting, 12V Indirect Lighting, Overhead Outlet & Switch Plates Outlet, 120V GFI Protected Outlet, Phone Outlets, 120V Outlets, 120V GFI Protected Outlets, 12V Accessory Pillows, Accent Steps, Entryway - Teak w/Stainless-Steel Handrail Wood Interior Finish: Dark or Light Cherry; Gloss or Matte finish also available in Light Rift Oak ~Canvas (Sunbrella) Aft Curtain Canvas Storage Bag ~Certifications Meets Applicable USCG & ABYC Standards NMMA Yacht Certification ~Cockpit Features Beverage Holders (10) Carpet Liner, Snap-In Door, Transom Floor Liner, Fiberglass Handrails, 316 Stainless Steel Hardtop, Fiberglass Hatch, Engine Room Icemaker, 120V Lighting, Indirect 12V Outlet, 120V GFI Protected Outlet, 12V Accessory Seating, Double-Wide Helm Seating, Lounger: Portside Seating, U-Shaped Ship's Bell Steps, Boarding Stereo Storage, Side Panel - Portside Table, Cockpit Wet Bar ~Control Station Alarms, High-Water: Bilge & Cabin Battery Parallel Switch: Engines Compass Dash, Gel Coated Halon System Remote Indicator Horn, Air (Concealed) Instrument Panel: High-Gloss Power Steering, Hydraulic Shift & Throttle Controls SmartCraft Diagnostics SmartCraft VesselView Display Switch Panel: High Gloss (Backlit) Switches, Illuminated Zeus Joystick Control ~Electrical Systems Battery Charger/Converter 120V/60 Amp/12V Battery Switches, 2-Way Solenoid Activated Cable TV System Panel DC Circuit Breaker - Remote Panel, DC Main Breaker Panel, Main Distribution - AC Panel, Main Distribution - DC Shore Power, CableMaster Transformer, Shore Power Wiring, Color-Coded ~Electronics Electronics Circuit, 12V/50 Amp VHF Radio, Raymarine 240 ~Engine Room Bilge Pumps, 12V Bilge Pumps, 12V (2) Blowers, 12V Bilge (2) Exhaust, Underwater Fire Suppression System Gel-Coated Engine Room Ladder, Stainless Steel Lighting, 12V Oil Changer System ~Forward Head - Port Bathroom Tissue Holder Door, Privacy Flooring, Tile Handrails Head, VacuFlush? Power Vent, 12V Robe Hook Storage, Gunwale Cabinet Storage, Medicine Cabinet Vanity ~Forward Shower - Starboard Door, Privacy Flooring, Tile Handrails: Stainless Steel Robe Hook Shower: w/Seat & Adjustable Wand Towel Bars ~Forward Stateroom Bed, Full-Size Island-Style Door, Privacy Hanging Lockers (2) Lighting, Task Speakers (2) Storage Drawers, (2) Under Bed Storage, Gunwale Cabinets Storage, In-Floor TV, 19" Flatscreen LCD HDTV ~Fuel System Diesel Fuel System - Electric Fuel Filters Fuel Lines (USCG - Type A-1) Fuel Tanks, Aluminum ~Galley Coffeemaker, 120V Countertop, Solid-Surface Microwave/Convection Oven Power Vent, 12V: w/Stainless Steel Grill Refrigerator/Freezer: w/Stainless-Steel Front - Dual Voltage Storage, Drawers Storage, Upper & Lower Stove, Two-Burner (Recessed) Trash Receptacle ~Generator 11.5 kW Onan Diesel ~Hull & Deck Features Bottom Paint Bow Rail Canvas Colors: (Blue, Black, Pewter) Cleats, Custom Sea Ray (8) Deck Fill Plates Deck Rails Drain Plug, Brass-Threaded - Garboard Gel Coat, Arctic White Graphics, Striping Graphics, Transom Numerator Handrails, 316 Stainless Steel Hull Windows: Stainless Steel (2 - 1 Salon, 1 Galley) Lights, Navigation: Stern & Transom Portlights: Oval, Stainless Steel (10 - 6 Opening, 4 Fixed) Resin, High-Performance Vinylester Rub Rail, PVC Skylights, Flush Mount: w/Retractable Sunshades (2) Storage, Transom Stringer System, Fiberglass Sun Pad Swim Platform, Concealed Thru-Hull Fittings Toe Rail: Molded Fiberglass - Deck Vent System, Engine Room Windshield Washer System Windshield Wipers Windshield, Tempered/Tinted Curved Glass ~Mid-Stateroom Bed, Twin (2) Mattresses Door, Privacy Lighting, 12V Task Storage, Hanging Locker Storage, Under Bed ~Mid-Stateroom Head/Shower Curtain, Shower Door, Privacy: Access from Mid-Stateroom Handrail, Stainless Steel Head, VacuFlush Robe Hook Shower: w/Seat and Adjustable Shower Wand Storage, Medicine Cabinet: Mirrored Towel Ring Vanity ~Propulsion T-Cummins MerCruiser QSB 425 Twin Diesel Zeus Drives (420 bhp - 313 kW) T-ZEUS CMD QSB 425 ( T- 407 PHP ) DIESELS ~Salon Entertainment Center Mirror, Wall Accent Seating, L-Shaped Sofa Storage Locker, Under Entry Steps Storage, Gunwale Cabinets Table, Dinette ~Underwater Gear Bonding System Propellers, Stainless-Steel Seacocks Seawater Strainers Trim Tabs, Hydraulic ~Waste Systems Head System, VacuFlush Holding Tank Holding Tank Level Indicators Sump Box ~Water System Freshwater Washdown Spigots: Transom & Engine Room Manifold System Pressure Water System Shower, Cockpit Water Heater, (11 Gallon) : 220V Water Inlet, Dockside ~Windlass System Anchor Chute: Stainless Steel Anchor Rope/Chain Storage: w/Gas-Assisted Hatches (2) Anchor Washdown Spigot Anchor, Galvanized Windlass, Rope/Chain: w/Foot Switches Stock number: B051713YND Compass; Stove; Vhf radio; Stereo; Shore power; Gps loran; Radar; Fridge; Shower; Camper canvas; Swim platform; Call Brad McCabe 516-232-6395.
1977 Boston Whaler 15 Sport Classic
$22,900
Charleston, South Carolina
Category Tender Boats
Length 15'
Posted Over 1 Month
1977 Boston Whaler 15 Sport Classic This is a beautifully restored 1977 Boston Whaler 15’ Sport. This beauty is truly a one of a kind work of art. This boat was stripped completely down to the bare hull and restored in winter/spring of 2014. The outside and bottom were refinished with AlexSeal Yacht Coatings single stage polyurethane in Sea Frost color, which is a very faint light green. The interior was stripped and then coated with spray-in bed liner in a “vanilla shake” color. This turned out to be a very good idea as it provides a durable nonskid surface. This makes the boat practical and useful while maintaining a very appealing look. What truly makes this boat beautiful and unique, yet authentic is the console, bench seat, and seat rails. They were custom designed based on the original layout and then crafted from rare Honduran mahogany. The finish is 5 coats of Captains Spar varnish. It is truly a must see. The following was all installed brand new during the restoration process; OE style rub rail, OE style SS bow and stern lights (with LED bulbs), Minn Kota Riptide 55lb saltwater series bow mount trolling motor with quick release bracket and foot remote control, front pedestal mount and extension pole for seat, Lowrance Elite 5 DSI down scan combination GPS/sonar, interior LED courtesy lights, Johnson 1000 GPM automatic bilge pump, switch/breaker panel for lights/accessories, SS steering wheel with knob, dual SS recess mount cup holders, Tempress swivel bucket seats, Sea Star Bay Star hydraulic steering, bimini top, keel guard, SS bow guard, and a Moeller fuel/water separator/filter. This boat is powered by a 2010 Yamaha F70 4-stroke outboard with 325 hrs on it. It is mounted on a manual jack plate and is fitted with a 18p SS Quicksilver prop. This motor is the perfect fit for this boat. It is light weight, almost completely silent, and super efficient. The boat will cruise at around 27 MPH while getting around 11 MPG! WOT is around 47 MPH depending on the load. There is an 18 gallon aluminum gas tank mounted under the seat which gives the boat a range of close to 200 miles. There is a SS remote fuel fill mounted in the bench seat and a Yamaha gauge on the dash monitors the fuel level. The Yamaha multi-function digital gauge is mounted in the dash to monitor engine vitals. The boat comes with a new custom boat cover by T-Top Boat Covers and sits on a 2012 WESCO galvanized trailer with spare tire. There are several pictures attached but there is an entire album of photos that were taken during the restoration process. I am the one who restored the boat so I know every detail about it. Please call/text with any questions.
2014 Premier 290 Grand Isle
Request Price
Osage Beach, Missouri
Category Pontoon Boats
Length 30'
Posted Over 1 Month
2014 Premier 290 Grand Isle This 2014 290 Grand Isle features a 10' wide deck, seagrass flooring, Flexsteel furniture, 36" PTX Package, dual AMG batteries with switch and Polk stereo upgrade. Whether you're relaxing with your family or entertaining all your friends, the 2014 Grand Isle can accommodate. Check out the comfortable split lounge, the hidden coolers, the stereo, and all of the space! Our in-dash Beacon Electronics System is a customized touchscreen that gives you a complete view of your vessel's systems so you can monitor speed, RPMs, fuel level and engine diagnosticsand it has full GPS and stereo control. Standard Features:13 ft Bimini top, 16 in on-center crossmembers, 30 in PTX package, 25 in tubes .090 gauge with .100 nosecones, 47 gallon built-in fuel tank, Bimini trailering kit, Twister Carpet, Calypso gauges, Chaise lounge arms (2), Mirage Changing Room, Courtesy lights, Directional speaker mounts, LED Docking & Nav lights, Dome light, Curly Maple Steering Wheel, Evolution Rails, Fender holder/strap (4), Fire extinguisher & caddy, Flexsteel 7-Star helm & spotter chairs, Flexsteel bow filler couch, Flexsteel couches, Flexsteel aft Lounges, Flexsteel Mobile armrests (2), LED vista strip lighting, Durasoft 7 Upholstery Vinyl, Playpen cover, Polished corner castings, Quick-release Bimini brackets (4), Rear 5-step stainless steel ladder, Liberty I Helm, Rubber gunnel molding, Rubber nose cone covers, Seastar Hydraulic steering, Skirt molding, Slim Table, Beacon Electronic System, Stainless steel bow rails, Stainless steel cleats (flip-up bow), Stainless steel cup Holders, Stainless steel hardware, Swim Platform, Tilt steering, Trash storage, Ultimate Plug-and-Play wire connectors Option with Mercury (9067N) 300XL Verado Pro 300, Powder coated rails- Black Hammered, Seagrass floor- Ivory Teak- Complete boat (10-wide), Mercury 6PSI L6 Pre Rig (Verado-Power steering & Smartcraft) Includes installation, 10-wide upgrade- w/ 27" tube upg. (275-310) (Remains std. steering. Includes credit for hydraulic), Brite Tube pkg (25" or 27" tubes), PTX 36" Upgrade (frm Std. 30") (includes Seastar hydraulic, performance sheeting, lifting strakes, in-floor storage, 47gal fuel tank), 4 Polk Package- Liberty Helms (Polk head unit w/Bluetooth, 4 Polk Premium speakers, Polk 10" Sub, & Polk 500w Amp. Directional mounts sold separately), Dual Battery switch, Body:- Hull Thickness: Thick .090 gauge corrosion-resistant aluminum- Number of Tubes: 3- Tube Diameter: 27"- Tube Gauge: Rough Water .125 NoseconesEngine & Drivetrain:- Engine Make: Mercury- Engine Model: 300XL Verado- Horsepower: 300hp- Engine (Max): 300hp- Max. No. of Engines: 1- Fuel Type: Gas- Drive Type: Outboard- Battery: Dual AMG Batteries w/ SwitchMeasurements:- Weight: 5100 w. MotorOperational:- Electronics: Our in-dash Beacon Electronics Sys
2013 Ranger Z117 Comanche Bass Boat w/ Lowrance HDS8 Structure Scan- LOW HOURS!
$21,500
Milton, Wisconsin
Category Bass Boats
Length 17.5
Posted Over 1 Month
This boat is like new and loaded with electronics, ready to catch fish! Only 3 hours on the boat/motor. The only negatives I can think of are, it doesn't come with a cover, and there is a little dust in the trim gauge somehow. Here are the options it includes, I will post the standard stuff at the end: - 2013 Minn Kota Maxxum 70LB thrust trolling motor - Aluminum Navigation and Anchor lights - R&R E Ladder mounted at the stern (see photos) - 2013 Ranger Trail single axle trailer with aluminum fenders and swing away tongue - 15 Gallon Livewell - Bike/casting seat with adjustable pedestal - 1 Ranger Comanche folding fishing chair with adjustable pedestal - Dual fuel tanks (22 gallon total) - 47 mph top speed - (2) Boat Buckle rod straps on the bow and (1) port side - Removable tinted windshield - Single console - Adjustable center rod storage - Fire Extinguisher - Pro Charging Sytems dual bank on board charger - Lowrance HDS7 Color Touch Screen Electronics at the bow - Lowrance HDS8 Color Touch Screen w/ GPS and Down/Side/Structure Scan at the helm - Stainless steel 3 blade prop Here is a copy of the standard specs and dimensions: General Boat Info Make :Ranger Model :Z117 Model Year :2013 Measurements / Dimensions Beam :89 in. 90.5 in. with rub rail Beam - Meters :2.31 Beam - Inches :90.5 Depth - Detail :20 in Depth - Centimeters :50.8 Depth - Inches :2 Weight - Detail :1,400 lbs Weight - kg :635.03 Weight - lbs. :14 Length - Feet :17.5 Length overall - Detail :17 ft. 6 in Length overall - Meters :5.33 Length overall - Inches :21 Body / Hull Hull material :Fiberglass Hull type :Modified Vee Engine and Drivetrain Fuel tank capacity - Detail :22 gal Fuel tank capacity - Liters :83.28 Fuel tank capacity - Gal :22 Fuel type :Gas Drive type :Outboard Engine max :115 hp Operational Info Storage :Livewell: 15 gal. Rod Holders: 7 ft. 6 in. port, 7 ft. starboard Maximum capacity :1,200 lbs Trailer Info Trailer - Length over all :20 ft. 6 in. with motor down 19 ft. 7 in. with swing away tongue open Trailer - Weight :GVWR: 2,995 lbs Trailer - Width :98 inches I have lots of pictures and it is stored inside so if you have any questions or want to see something, just ask. I am going to list it locally as well for $21500. So first come first serve. The boat is located in Milton, WI 53563. I have clear title in hand for the boat. WI does not require registration of motor or trailer.
2004 Chaparral 260 Signature Cruiser
$40,000
Greensburg, Indiana
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Posted Over 1 Month
2004 Chaparral 260 Signature Cruiser. Garage keep since new, second owner. 600+ hours on motor. Great condition. NAPA is over 47K with all options. Generator / 5 KW - Gas 5.7L MerCuirser Engine Bimini Top Bridge Enclosure Salon Enclosures Cockpit Cover Battery Charger - Dual 10 amp Depth Sounder GPS - Fixed Mount Inverter / Charger - 1500w Radar Arch Radio / 25 Watt VHF - Fixed Mount Stereo - AM/FM/CD player w/4 speakers T.V. 10" Color VCR/DVD Player Bar / Console Microwave Oven Pressure Water System Range - C.N.G. Refrigerator - AC/DC - 6 cu. ft. Water Heater - 6 Gallon Air Conditioning / Heating System - 12,000btu Batteries - Dual w/Switch Docking Lights Dual-Prop Fire Ext. 75 - 100 cu. ft. Flooring - Snap In/Out Carpet Fuel Injection Outbd. Power Tilt/Trim (101-300 HP) Propeller / Stainless Steel (3-Blade) Spotlight - Remote Control Swim Step w/Fold Down Ladder Trim Tabs / Hydraulic Vacuum Flush Head - w/Holding Tank & Pump Out Windlass - Boats 25' - 30' Trailer: 2004 28 Feet all aluminum tri-axil Aluminum Step Plates (4) Spare Tire and Carrier Surge Brakes
2008 Sharpe 18 x 86
$375,000
Royal, Arkansas
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Posted Over 1 Month
Private Seller (501) 837-2769 Photos Photo 1 Photo 2 Photo 3 Photo 4 Photo 5 Photo 6 Photo 7 Photo 8 Photo 9 Photo 10 Photo 11 Photo 12 Photo 13 Photo 14 Photo 15 Photo 16 Photo 17 Photo 18 Photo 19 Photo 20 Photo 21 Photo 22 Photo 23 Photo 24 Photo 25 Photo 26 Photo 27 Photo 28 Photo 29 Photo 30 Photo 31 Photo 32 Photo 33 Photo 34 Photo 35 Photo 36 Photo 37 Photo 38 Photo 39 Photo 40 Photo 41 Photo 42 Photo 43 Photo 44 Photo 45 Photo 46 Photo 47 Photo 48 Photo 49 Photo 50 Photo 51 Photo 52 Photo 53 Photo 54 Photo 55 Photo 56 Photo 57 Photo 58 Photo 59 Photo 60 Photo 61 Photo 62 Photo 63 Photo 64 Photo 65 Photo 66 Photo 67 Photo 68 Photo 69 Photo 70 Photo 71 Photo 72 Photo 73 Photo 74 Photo 75 Photo 76 Photo 77 Photo 78 Photo 79 Photo 80 Photo 81 Photo 82 Photo 83 Photo 84 Photo 85 Photo 86 Photo 87 Photo 88 Photo 89 Photo 90 Photo 91 Photo 92 Photo 93 Photo 94 Photo 95 Photo 96 Photo 97 Photo 98 Photo 99 Photo 100 Photo 101 Photo 102 Close Request Information * Name First Name * Email Telephone (optional) Best Time to Contact Anytime Morning Mid-day Evening Question/Comments (optional) Shop Safely: Protect Your Money. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. Contact Seller 2008 Custom Built Sharpe Houseboat. Size:18 x 86. **LOCATION*** Lake Ouachita, Hot Springs,Arkansas at Brady Mountain Marina.***HULL NUMBER*** EYE50410A808 ***SIZE*** Hull Length: 86'Hull Breadth: 18 feet (5.5 meters); Hull Depth: 6.5 feet (2 meters). Gross Tonnage 160; Net Tonnage; 128; ***Hull Material: Aluminum.***Wide Cabin Steps Front/Side and Rear ***DECK INFO*** Front Deck 13'9 deep; Rear Deck 12'deep; Swim Platform 4'deep.***INSULATION***Thermopane Insulated Sides; ***ENGINES*** Twin Mercruiser 5.0L MPI w/ Bravo II Outdrives Counter Rotation; Engine Hours = 107 ***GENERATOR*** Westerbeke 22.5 KW 4-Cyl Engine Generator-COSAFE - EFI Engine-Generator Hours=1,220***THRUSTERS*** HydraNautics Std Bow & Stern Thrusters - Dual Controls***EQUIPMENT LIST*** 2-190 gallon Fuel Tanks; Halon Auto Extinguisher; Engine Compartment Coast Guard Wiring Ring Bouy; 3-80 gallon Water Tanks; 3-Cabin Fire Extinguishers; Boat Hook Bell; 2-80 gallon Holding Tanks; Gas Shocks on Outside Hatches; 40 Life Jackets; 3-Bilge Pumps/Auto 20 gallon Water Heater(2); 8 Black Bumpers; 5-Batteries; Eng Rm Hydraulic Steering; 2-Blowers; Eng. Comp Exterior Features3/16" Aluminum Hull; Double Plated Bow Mill Finish; 1-1/2" Aluminum Railing (All); Fiberglass Superstructure; Tinted Windows & Doors; Exterior Painted Stripes (Dupont Imron); 86 Thermopane Insulation Pkg (Interior & Exterior Walls); Anodized Roof Supports on Front & Rear Decks ***HVAC*** Three & One-Half Ton Ton Trane Central Air & Heat Compressor on Rear Deck; Front Deck Outside Floodlights on Corners; Storage Hatch on Deck; 2 Ceiling Fans; CAPPED Aluminum Sides Front Deck Rails & Gates; Gates on Deck Openings; 2-25' Shore Cord 220/50; Aluminum Soffitt New Style Deck Lighting in Ceiling (6)Rope Lts on W/C Steps 110 Rope Light Front Deck Area Single Hatch on Front Deck; Inverter Hatch on FD for Batteries, 8-6V; Rope Locker Hatch on Starboard Deck w/ Mesh in BottomShore Power Recessed on Starboard SideRear DeckOutside Floodlights on Corners 3-Rail Aluminum Sides on Gates & 3-Rail Rear Aluminum SoffitTelescoping Swim Ladder under Swim Platform 2-Swim Deck Station Bars New Decks Lights-(6) Ceiling Fan-2One Rear Deck Locker PWC Pump on Rear Deck (Draw Both Tank) R.D. Roof Drains110 Rope Lights on Rear Deck ***WINCH*** DUAL PWC Bunks on Rear w/ 2-Removable 12v Winches w/ 4-SupportsPWC Bunk Storage on Swim Platform for Supports Slide on Rear w/ 12v Lake Water Supply Galley Eyeball Lighting in Galley Area Ceiling; 2-Interior Ceiling Fans (Oil Bronze)Maple Paneling & Maple Cabinets-Raised Panel Doors Thru Out Halogen Eyeball Lighting Thru Out Appliances Custom Style Refrigerator w/ Raised Doors-GE 30" S/C-Radiant Range-GE 30" Microwave-GEU-Line Undercounter Ic $375000, CALL 5018372769 ***WEBSITE***https://sites.google.com/site/sharpehouseboat2008/home Be sure: Get a boat history report|Finance this boat|Get an insurance quote|
Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619
$1
El Cajon, California
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Posted Over 1 Month
We buy, sell, trade, tune-up, and repair all brands, years, sizes and lengths of outboard motors including: Johnson, Evinrude, Mercury, Sears, Wards, Mariner, British Seagull, SeaKing, Clinton, Elgin, Eska, Aero Marine, Gamefisher, Cruise'n Carry, Force, Ted Williams, and numerous others in addition to: Honda, Nissan, Suzuki, Tanaka, Tohatsu, Yamaha, etc. We also carry used propellers for most of the above brands (it is best to bring your old propeller or outboard with you for a perfect fit). We have some lower units, power tilt and trim units, various used electric starters and small electric trolling motors for sale (great for kids on a small boat on a lake). Turn-around time, for carry-in repairs is about 5 business days or less.(depending on parts availability). A larger motor attached to your boat usually takes 1 to 2 days. We also rebuild electric and pull-starters for all motors and we have a huge selection of used outboard motors for sale ranging from 1hp to 250hp. All our motors have been serviced and ready to go. We do remove and install large outboard motors of all sizes. Call Marty at 619 - 972 - 9998 to discuss your motor. If no answer, please leave a message and I will get back to you as soon as possible. Please repeat your phone number twice because sometimes it is not clear. Often we can help you fix your problem on the phone at no cost. (Please no E-mails or texts). When you bring it in, we will give your outboard motor a compression and spark test, diagnose your engine, and tell you what it needs in repairs to get it back in good running condition. We will repair your motor at your request, answer your questions and make suggestions. Most of our business is by recommendation of satisfied customers. We will do everything possible to make you one. If we do not have the size or brand of outboard that you are looking for, ask us to put your name on our list and we will call you if and when such an outboard arrives. ------------------------------------- USEFUL TIPS & INFORMATION: ------------------------------ (1) All 2 stroke outboard engines made after 1963 require a 50:1 mixture (3 ounces of 2 stroke outboard motor oil per gallon of gas). The actual amount is 2.6 ounces per gallon (a little extra won't hurt, but less can cause severe damage to your engine). NOTE: NEVER use 100:1 as recommended by some manufacturers. It will cause your engine to lose compression and die prematurely. The only lubrication that your engine gets is from the oil that is mixed with the gas, therefore use 50:1 to be safe. (2) Older outboards (pre 1963) require double the amount of oil 25:1 mixture (6 ounces per gallon), some require a 16:1 mixture (8 ounces per gallon), and BRITISH SEAGULL engines require a 10:1 mixture (13 ounces per gallon). (3) 4 stroke outboards do not need oil mixed with the gas. Make sure the crankcase is full of oil (check the dipstick). If by mistake you ran your 4 stroke with oil mixed with gas do not be concerned. It's OK. (4) Always carry a minimum amount of tools like screwdrivers (blade and Phillips head), socket set including a spark plug socket, combination wrenches, vice grips, pliers, fire extinguisher, drift or punch to drive out a broken shear pin, a can of WD - 40, and a spray can of carburetor cleaner for starting emergencies, and a few extra new spark plugs (pre-gapped) in case yours become fouled, a new gas filter if your gas line has one, a tire pressure gauge, a long magnet and (extra-long) forceps (in case you drop a nut or a bolt), and a small flashlight. AVOID USING STARTER FLUID because it contains ether (bad for outboards). Also carry a pair of extra shear pins and cotter pins (for most outboards less than 35hp). And also a few small hose clamps to tighten a loose or leaking fuel line (see tip #53 below). (5) For small outboards under 40hp, keep the clamp handle screws greased so they will not freeze up from oxidation or salt. (6) For all outboards that have remote steering, grease the steering cable often if you go out in salt water to prevent the cable from "seizing up" and causing a costly repair. (7) For all outboards, starting it several times a year keeps everything "limber". (8) For all outboards, flushing your outboard in fresh water for 5 minutes after each saltwater use will prevent costly cooling system repairs. NOTE: Do not flush your motor in saltwater. Use a barrel, or a garden hose hooked up to outboard "earmuffs" or any other device made for your motor. (9) If you carry your small outboard motor in the bed of a pick-up truck, always tie it down securely or it might break the tiller or shift handle by rolling. (10) For all outboards, check your propeller for broken blades or chunks missing from any blade. Operating any outboard with uneven prop blades will cause vibration and damage to seals and other internal parts of the lower unit. Also it is best to carry a spare prop. (Approx. cost $50 for a used one) . (11) Spray a thin coat of WD 40 all around the powerhead of your outboard. It will not make your engine run better, but it will protect it from rust and salt deposits. (12) For pull start outboards, check the entire pull cord for signs of wear. You wouldn't want to break a pull cord when you are out fishing. (13) For electric start outboards, always carry 2 fully charged batteries in case one battery loses its charge. (14) For small (tiller steering) outboards up to 35hp, attach a short chain, cable or heavy rope (one end attached to your outboard's clamp section, and the other end attached to the transom of your boat) as a safety to prevent your motor from falling overboard. (15) For all outboards, in the event that you remove the top cowling to check your engine, put the cowling down away from the edge of the boat since any wave might send the cowling to the bottom of the ocean or lake. It will be difficult to locate a replacement. (16) For all outboards, most engine failure is a result of overheating. Always check the temp. gauge (if you have one) or by watching the "pisser". If you see steam coming out, shut the engine to avoid costly damage. Check the bottom of the lower unit to see if you picked up some vegetation, or a plastic bag which may be blocking your water intake. If you do not find anything, you may have a bad impeller or a bad water-pump housing. The best thing to do is, try (if possible) to get towed back by any good natured person in the area, or call "VESSEL ASSIST". If you do not have "Vessel Assist Insurance", it will be quite costly. To avoid all of the above, it is best to change your impeller every 2 years or sooner. Whether you use your outboard frequently, occasionally, or just once in 2 years, it is time more than wear that ruins the impeller. (17) If you own a boat (any kind), always remember to replace the drain plug in the stern (rear) before you go out, or the boat will slowly fill with water. This event happens to everyone at some time. It is best to make a check list and review it before you launch. (Also keep a spare drain plug near the drain-hole in your boat in case the original one gets "lost"). (18) For portable outboards, it is best (if possible) to mount the motor on land before you launch in the ocean, because any wave can cause you to drop your motor while you are mounting it. (19) For outboards with an integral gas tank (one that is built-in to your engine), always carry extra fuel and a FUNNEL, or much of the extra gas will be lost when pouring to re-fill your integral tank. (20) For pull-start outboards and some bigger electric starting engines, you should have a separate emergency starter rope with a handle in case your starter spring fails, or the rope tears, or the electric starter or battery fails. (21) For all outboards, it is wise to remove the propeller after several times of use, in order to remove the fishing line that sometimes collects there. This fishing line can cut through the prop seal and cause the lower unit to leak oil and take in water. (a costly repair). (22) Gasoline should be fresh (not more than 6 months old). If you choose to keep it longer, add the correct amount of STABIL. (23) For all trailered boats, (large and small) you should check the transom of your boat for stress cracks (caused by the motor bouncing because of bumps in the road). To prevent such cracks you should get a TRANSOM SAVER which takes the weight off your boat's transom and transfers it to the trailer. (It costs about $75, and can save you thousands). (24) For all outboards, check the lower unit gear oil. It should be dark brown or black in color. Water or coffee-n-cream color in the oil indicates a lower unit seal problem. Smelly/stinky oil is usually OK as long as the color is good. The gear oil should be changed annually. (25) For outboards up to 35hp, if you cannot get the boat to plane, try adjusting the tilt pin. If the boat still rides with its "nose" high in the air, it is probably because you have too much weight in the rear or (you may possibly have the wrong length lower unit). One remedy is to install a "WHALE TAIL" on the cavitation plate of your outboard to cause a greater lift in the rear. (It costs about $50). (26) For all boat trailers, you should get a BEARING BUDDY for each wheel. Its purpose is to keep the whole hub and wheel bearings greased and to prevent any water from entering the bearing zone when you back into the water. Keep it full of grease (with a grease gun). Without BEARING BUDDYS you can expect the bearings to seize-up sometime when you are trailering. You might snap an axle, lose control of your trailer, drop your boat off the trailer onto the road, or worse. BEARING BUDDYS are inexpensive and easy to put on. They can be found at any boat shop or automotive parts place. (27) For outboard engines that are partially submerged in saltwater for 3 months or longer, you can expect the lower unit's aluminum housing to begin disintegrating (dissolving). If you cannot keep the lower unit out of the saltwater, you should attach some zinc anodes to the cavitation plate. They will help save your lower unit. Cost of anodes $5 - $55 at any boat shop. (28) For all do-it-yourselfers, it is best to put grease or NEVER SEIZE on all the bolts that you remove and replace, to prevent rust and salt build-up on those bolts. (29) For all outboards, service your engine regularly. To do so not only prevents problems, but allows you or your mechanic to grease all the bolts that are removed and replaced so that those bolts will come out easily "without breaking" in the future. (30) For electric start outboards, at the first sign of starter trouble, get the starter serviced before you take the boat out fishing. Be happy that it gave you a warning. (31) It would be wise to carry an extra fuel tank "quick connector" fitting that "snaps" into your engine fuel fitting. The "O" ring that they all have sometimes goes bad causing the engine to suck too much air instead of fuel. The engine will then stall or run poorly. Cost about $7 - $20. (32) We sell many large 2 stroke outboards to unfortunate people who relied on their automatic oil feeders known as "VRO". We suggest that you disconnect your VRO and add oil to your gas the old fashioned way. Your engine can become totally ruined within seconds when your VRO fails. Don't take our word for this suggestion. Ask other outboard mechanics for their opinions. . (33) It is suggested that you do not go full throttle on any outboard, because it over-stresses your motor. You should use about 95% of your maximum power. This can be accomplished by putting in a "stop" near the end of your throttle or just remembering to back off a little. This should save gas, wear and tear to your engine, thus making it last longer. (It is similar to driving your car with the gas pedal to the floor) (34) For outboards that use portable gasoline tanks (2-12 gallons), it is wise to use a good plastic or aluminum gas tank. (An aluminum tank is hard to find). The reason for using aluminum or plastic is because they will never rust. A rusty tank will probably clog your gas filter or carburetor when the rust-dust gets there. You should keep the plastic tank away from the direct rays of the sun which will cause it to become brittle and crack. You should replace your plastic gas tank after a few years as needed. (35) For all outboards, never store your outboard motor upside down or it may seize from the water residue that will drain into the powerhead causing the internal parts to rust. It is best to store it vertically. (36) For small outboards (carrying type), it is wise to run your motor out of fuel before you take it off your boat. The reason is to prevent the gas that remains in the carburetor from spilling onto the carpet in your car or trunk when you lie the motor down. (37) For outboards that are bolted to the transom of a fiberglass boat, make sure that MARINE silicone is used to coat the mounting bolts and to fill the mounting bolt holes. Apply the silicone liberally. This will prevent water from getting into the bolt holes and save your transom from rotting. Behind the fiberglass is wood. The wood will rot over time if water gets to it. (38) For all outboards, never run your engine "dry" (without water) or it will seriously damage your impeller within 1 minute. You might not realize this, and the next time you go out boating or fishing your engine may overheat. (39) For all trailerable boats, it is wise to attach a safety chain from the "pulling-eye" at the front of your boat to the area near the winch. If your pulling strap suddenly breaks, the safety chain will stop your boat from coming off the trailer in transit. (40) For all outboards, when you change the gear oil, be certain that when you replace the oil screws, that each of the 2 screws has a plastic (or composition) flat washer to prevent oil from leaking out and water from leaking in. Sometimes the washers get stuck in the "screw well". That is OK. Replace the screws and tighten securely. NOTE: If the flat washer is missing, DO NOT replace with an "O" ring. It will surely fail. (41) For all outboards, it is wise to replace the lower oil drain screw with a magnetic elongated drain screw. It will catch any small loose steel particles that break off within the gearcase, warning you that a problem may be developing there. Approx. cost for a magnetic oil screw $8.00 at any boat shop. (42) For all outboards, when changing gears from NEUTRAL to FORWARD, or from NEUTRAL to REVERSE, first lower your speed to minimum. Do not "ease" the shifter into place. Be decisive! Slowly shifting into forward or reverse will cause the gears to grind and lead to costly repairs. (43) For all sailboats with outboard motors, be certain that your outboard motor does not pick-up out of the water when the sailboat rocks. One remedy is to lower the engine mount (if possible), or get an outboard motor with a longer shaft, or else the impeller may become damaged and fail, causing your outboard to overheat. (44) For 2 stroke outboards, it is wise to add outboard motor oil at the same time that you purchase gas. Waiting until you get home increases the chance that you will forget to add oil. Running your outboard without oil can destroy your engine within 15 seconds (a very costly error). (45) For small 4 stroke engines, when transporting your outboard off the boat or when storing it, it is best to keep it in a vertical position. If you must lie it down, make sure that it lies according to the manufacturer's instructions. Lying it down on the wrong side will cause the engine oil to seep out. Always check the oil level with the dipstick before you start any 4 stroke outboard. If your engine oil level is low, you can add any standard automotive oil. (46) To tell if a boat leaks without taking it to a lake or ocean, use a garden hose to fill the bottom of the boat with water. If the water leaks out of the bottom, the boat surely has a leak and it may show you exactly where to repair it. (47) Be smart: DO NOT LEND YOUR OUTBOARD MOTOR OR MOTORBOAT TO ANYONE. If you do, don't be surprised by the motor problems you will have have when it is returned. (48) For uncovered boats left outside between usages, remove the drain plug so your boat will not fill up with rainwater. Check the drain hole periodically to remove leaves, dirt, etc. Be sure to replace the drain plug before you go boating. (49) For all boats that are trailered, it is unwise to tow even a short distance without one or 2 spare tires. If you get a flat tire and have no spare, you can expect a mostly ruined fishing or boating day. I recommend 2 spare tires because in the event that you use your spare because of a flat tire, you no longer have a spare. NOTE: Many people prevent weathering of their spares by carrying them in their trunk. (50) For all trailer users, it is wise to have a 12 volt tire inflator that plugs into your cigarette lighter or attaches to your car battery. If your trailer tires are low they could possibly blow-out or become flat. A 12 volt tire inflator will take a few minutes to restore the required air pressure etched on the tire by the manufacturer. Cost: $15-$40. (51) It is wise to make a check- list of all the things you will need when you go boating or fishing so you will not forget anything. Write it on thick stiff paper so it will not crumble and can be used repeatedly, and you can add to the list as needed. (52) For all outboards, if your motor runs in neutral but it will not move in forward or reverse, it might have broken shear pin, or a faulty propeller, or a loose shift rod. Do not assume that the gears are bad until you eliminate those 3 items. (53) For all outboards, check all gasoline hoses. Today's gasoline contains alcohol which hardens and /or deteriorates most old hoses. They rot from the inside and cause problems with your carburetor and /or sometimes cause a dangerous gas leak and loss of power. It would be wise to change the hoses annually to prevent problems. The cost of hoses is approx. $2-$10 at any automotive shop. Bring a sample with you. Make sure that the new hoses are alcohol resistant. (54) For all sailboats that are in slips and use outboard motors mounted onto an outside kicker bracket. When mounting or removing your outboard it is wise to maneuver your boat so that the outboard motor is over the floating dock. This can be accomplished by backing up your sailboat so that the motor is not directly above water, but above the walkway. The purpose is to prevent the outboard from falling out of your hands when mounting or dismounting it. Many people have dropped their outboards into the water by trying to mount them while leaning over the stern. (55) For all trailers, make sure that the ball is securely fastened to the coupler before pulling the trailer. Sometimes the coupler "looks" as though it is fastened, but it is not. The trailer may become undone and cause havoc on the road. It only takes a few seconds to carefully check it before you tow. COST: zero, SAVINGS: perhaps a life. (56) For all trailerable boats, always check your trailer lights. The cops are out there with spare tickets anxiously waiting to give them out. It is also safer if all your lights are working. Backing your trailer into a lake or saltwater will often ruin your trailer lights. The cost of repairing the lights is considerably less than the cost of a ticket and a loss of time at the courthouse. P.S. You can also get a ticket if your safety chain is not properly attached. (57) For all outboards it is wise to buy or make any device that will stop or slow down a thief who would like to steal your engine. If it takes a thief more than I minute to remove your engine, he will probably go elsewhere. It is best if everyone made their own device so that the thief will not be able to figure out a system for fast removal. (58) For all outboards, always carry a metal scraper, or stainless steel wool, or at least some emery cloth, or sandpaper. Sometimes your motor will not start because the battery cable terminals are dirty or corroded, or other wire terminals or ground connections may be corroded. The emery cloth or sandpaper may restore a clean connection to wherever it is needed. (59) For all outboards sitting idle for long periods of time, check the wires (not the spark plug wires) by shaking them with your fingers. If the insulation is brittle and crumbles you must replace the wires before starting your engine because they might short-out and cause costly damage to your electrical components. They can also cause a fire under the hood. This happens mostly to old Mercury outboards, but it can happen to any brand. (60) If you made a checklist, add this to it: Swing or crank the trailer jack wheel up and out of the way after attaching your hitch, or it might get damaged or break off when pulling the boat for as little as a few inches. (61) For small outboards (up to 25hp), if you notice that your outboard is not "pissing" water, don't panic. It might be a clogged "pee" hole or a clogged intake. Check if the engine is HOT. If it IS HOT shut it down immediately. If it is NOT HOT, push a wire (the thickness of a paper clip) into the "pee" hole. This might open the clogged passage. Also check the intake screen (at the bottom of the engine near the propeller) for debris. (62) For all outboards, if you remove your propeller (for any reason), before you put it back on, it is wise to grease the propeller shaft to prevent the propeller from "freezing" to the propeller shaft (because of salt and/or rust). If the propeller is already " frozen" and it will not come off (after you tried tapping it with a hammer and cussing), you may have to cut it off with an electric hand grinder or something similar. Sometimes a propane torch will burn out the rubber insert that holds the propeller together. Neither method is pleasant. A little grease now can save you a lot of time and money in the future. NOTE: Do not hit the propeller hard with a hammer or you might bend the propeller shaft which will cause costly internal lower unit damage when you go boating. (63) For all boat owners, it is advisable to purchase liability insurance for your vessel because you are responsible for any damage or injury that is caused by your boat or its wake. (64) For most gas tanks (metal and plastic), do not fill to the top with gas. Give the gasoline room to expand during hot weather, or the pressure inside the tank may cause the gas to overflow, the tank to rupture, distort, or generate small cracks at its top etc. Sometimes the cracks may not be visible, but during the rainy season (unknown to you) water may seep into the tank through those cracks. You will not be able to start your engine if there is water in the gas. (65) For all saltwater fishermen, it is wise to carry a thermos of HOT water or coffee in case you catch a sculpin and get stuck by its poisonous fins. Pouring HOT water on the injury will immediately neutralize the poison. Using cold water to stop the pain will make it worse. Ask your medical doctor. (66) For all outboard motors, if your motor runs great with the hood off, but runs terrible with the hood on, you may have an exhaust leak that is fouling your carburetor. Consult your mechanic for a remedy. (67) For all outboards, if you hear electrical arcing, pulsating or buzzing noises when it is running, you may have an electrical problem. A good way to investigate the problem is to run the outboard at night where it is dark and look below the hood. If you see sparks, clean and tighten the connections or change the part that is sparking as soon as possible because the sparks can start a fire. (68) For all boat trailers, if you notice that your boat is sagging to one side, the trailer may have a broken leaf in its set of springs. If so, get it fixed promptly before another leaf breaks because of the added stress. (69) For all outboards, check the water intake near the bottom of your motor for a broken or "plugged-up" screen. Clean or replace if broken. (70) For all boat, car, and truck owners, if you have a build-up of acid corrosion on your battery post, pour very hot water onto it. The corrosion will immediately vanish. (71) For outboards over 10 years old that have foam-rubber glued to the inside of the hood by the manufacturer, be sure to REMOVE ALL OF IT by any means because the foam will flake-off and plug up your carburetor. DO IT NOW!!! Also remove any dust, or leaves because your carburetor will suck any loose material into it like a vacuum cleaner. (72) For all outboards, it is wise to start and run your outboard at home for 10 minutes before you go out boating or fishing. Sometimes your motor will not start. You do not want to have trouble starting at the lake or ocean. It is best to deal with the problem on land. Be sure not to start it without water. (73) For all boat trailers, you will need a jack and a lug-wrench that fits your trailer's lug nuts. If they are rusty you may need a length of steel pipe to give you more leverage with the lug wrench. (It also helps to spray W-40 on everything during removal). (74) It is wise to often check the tire pressure in your spare tire because it may be very low. It can lose air, by just "sitting". (75) To determine if your (questionable) boat battery is good, it will need a "load test". For an accurate reading, you should charge-up your battery for about 2-3 hrs. A load test takes about 10 seconds. Most auto parts shops will load test your battery for free. (76) For all outboards, many of them take about 1-2 minutes to warm up. In that time your motor may stall, misfire, run-rough, etc. It may need more choke or less choke depending on how much gas is in the carburetor or carburetors (if you have more than one). Be sure that the "pump-up ball" is hard and the carburetor(s) is full of gas. (77) For all boaters, you can expect that at some time in the future your outboard motor will not start or re-start while you are out fishing. If you can afford it, it is wise to carry an auxiliary motor, or mount one on the stern. It should be between 4 hp and 25 hp depending on the size of your boat. It can also be used to save gas when you are slow-trolling for fish. (78) For all 2 stroke outboards, if you notice oil "leaking" near the foot of the motor, it is NORMAL because all the oil in the gas that went into the engine for lubrication must either "burn" or drip-out after the motor is shut down. It is wise to use an oil drip pan under the lower unit to prevent a stain on your driveway or elsewhere. (79) For users of small boats that use outboards, to avoid painful blisters bring along a pair of leather gloves along with oars in case your motor won't start and you have to row. NOTE: Most boaters are aware of the above suggestions, but not everyone. I hope that I may have saved someone the inconvenience of having a bad day on the water. If I think of any more tips, I will add them to the list. Perhaps you should make a copy of the tips as a reminder.
2006 Trophy 1703CC
$15,500
Thorndale, Pennsylvania
Year -
Make -
Model -
Category -
Length -
Posted Over 1 Month
Private Seller (484) 880-5851 Photos Photo 1 Photo 2 Photo 3 Photo 4 Photo 5 Photo 6 Photo 7 Photo 8 Photo 9 Photo 10 Photo 11 Photo 12 Photo 13 Photo 14 Photo 15 Photo 16 Photo 17 Photo 18 Photo 19 Photo 20 Photo 21 Close Request Information * Name First Name * Email Telephone (optional) Best Time to Contact Anytime Morning Mid-day Evening Question/Comments (optional) Shop Safely: Protect Your Money. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. Contact Seller 2006 Trophy 1703CC,THIS BOAT NEEDS NOTHING, TURN KEY READY!! THIS 17' FISHING MACHINE LOOKS, FEELS AND PERFORMS BIGGER THAN ALL COMPETITORS IN ITS CLASS. THIS BOAT HAS EXCELLENT KEY FEATURES FOR A GREAT DAY ON THE WATER, INCLUDING EXCEPTIONALLY HIGH FREEBOARD, QUALITY SOLID CONSTRUCTION FOAM-FILLED FIBERGLASS STRINGERS, PATENTED HULL SIDE FOAM FLOTATION THAT WILL KEEP YOU SAFE AND DRY IN A WIDE RANGE OF CONDITIONS. THE UPGRADED MERCURY 90 HP FOURSTROKE IS SUPER QUIET, INSTANT STARTUPS, DOESNT SMOKE LIKE A TWO STROKE, GETS UNBELIEVABLE GAS MILEAGE (A SINGLE FILL UP WILL LAST SEVERAL WEEKENDS ON THE WATER) AND HAS LOW HOURS. BOAT FEATURES: FULL CUSHION PACKAGE, NEW 48 QT IGLOO MARINE COOLER WITH CUSHION, SHIP TO SHORE VHF RADIO WITH NEW ANTENNA, NEW AM/FM/MP3/WMA RADIO WITH AUX INPUT, USB PORT AND SD CARD INPUT, LOWRANCE X47 DEPT/FISH FINDER, RAW WATER WASHDOWN (NEW PUMP FOR WASHDOWN AND LIVEWELL), UNDER DECK ROD HOLDERS (4), HELM ROD HOLDERS (4), GUNNEL ROD HOLDERS (2), REMOVABLE FOLDING BIMINIS WITH COVER, 37 GALLON FUEL TANK, HELM AND MAIN SEAT COVERS, AERATED 13 GAL. VORTEX BAITWELL W/OVERFLOW & DRAIN, BEVERAGE HOLDERS, 20 GAL FISHWELL W/DRAIN, HELM SEATING W/MULTI-POSITION LOCKABLE BACKREST, TEXTURED SURFACE AGGRESSIVE GRIP DECKS, COLOR-CODED ELECTRICAL SYSTEM , MAIN BATTERY SWITCH, NEW BATTERY PLUS A SPARE, ELECTRICAL BREAKERS, NEW 1,000-GPH BILGE PUMP: MANUAL & AUTOMATIC , 12V ACCESSORY OUTLET, 12V HORN, ALUMINUM DASH PANEL W/NON-GLARE FINISH, GLOVEBOX-STYLE CATCH-ALL W/SCREW-ON COVER, HIGH-TEMPERATURE ENGINE ALARM, IGNITION SAFETY SWITCH W/LANYARD, FUEL GAUGE, TACHOMETER, SPEEDOMETER, POWER TILT & TRIM, NO FEEDBACK ROTARY STEERING, 12V NAVIGATION LIGHTS, HEAVY-DUTY VINYL GUNWALE TRIM, INTEGRAL SWIM PLATFORM W/2-STEP LADDER & STAINLESS STEEL GRAB RAILS, SELF-BAILING FIBERGLASS FLOOR. THE GALVANIZED/FOLDING TONGUE TRAILER HAS NEW SPARE TIRE, LED LIGHTS, WHEEL BEARINGS, FENDERS, BUNK BOARDS, AND STRAP FOR WINCH. $15500, 4848805851 Be sure: Get a boat history report|Finance this boat|Get an insurance quote|
