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Historic WWII Elco PT-Boat For Sale (Restoration Candidate) (Kingston, NY)

Historic WWII Elco PT-Boat For Sale (Restoration Candidate) (Kingston, NY)

Request Price

Kingston, New York

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category -

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

Of the nearly 400 small, fast , versatile wooden Patrol Torpedo boats which were built around WWII, only a handful survive to the day. PT 48 is the only remaining 77' Elco PT-Boat and a member of the heroic WWII "Mosquito Fleet". With its stylish look, cold molded cabins, reverse S bend stem, it was once of the first successful ELCO designs.PT 48 has arguably spent more time in the combat zome than any other PT boats in existence from October 11, 1942 to August 7, 1944 and is officially credited with sinking IJN TERUZUKI. A combat highlight, while on patrol with PT 109 (led by John F. Kennedy), PT 48 was damaged by high seas and rescued by PT 109 and the use of a hand pump.The rich battle record of PT 48 is an intrinsic part of US history. Early after her 1941 launch and shortly shortly after Pearl HArbor, PT 48 aggressively attacked enemy vessels in the Solomon Islands, Guadalcanal, and Funuati.This vessel is not currently running and is a great restoration candidate.Serious inquiries only. Price upon request.

2003 Charger Bass Fishing Boat 17ft 90hp Mercury Fiber Glass w/ Trailer Clean

2003 Charger Bass Fishing Boat 17ft 90hp Mercury Fiber Glass w/ Trailer Clean

$5,995

Omaha, Nebraska

Year 2003

Make Charger

Model 17ft

Category Bass Boats

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

EBizAutos 2003 Charger 17ft 2003 Charger Bass Fishing Boat 17ft 90hp Mercury Fiber Glass w/ Trailer Clean PHOTOS PHOTOS REQUEST MORE INFO VIN: RDACX134H203 Stock #: RDACX134H203 Condition: Used Clear Title Exterior Color: White PHOTO VIEWER VIEW OTHER AUCTIONS EMAIL A FRIEND MORE DETAILS *Financing Available with Excellent Rates!* APPLY ONLINE NOW with our SECURE CREDIT APPLICATION here! Questions? Call us now @ 402-991-1112 Extended Warranties & Shipping Available! Vehicle Overview ***************** DON'T WAIT! CALL ANYTIME AT 402-991-1112! ***************** Check out this very nice 2003 Charger Bass Fishing Boat 17ft! This boat is in excellent shape! It has great options including a 90hp Mercury outboard motor, fiber glass body, 2 Fish Finders, 3 live wells, Stainless Steel Prop, and much more! The boat also comes with the trailer as seen in the pictures! Overall this boat is in excellent shape! It's priced to sell ASAP so call Internet Car Lot @ 402.991.1112 now! It's priced to sell ASAP so call 402.991.1112 now! We are helping a private party sell this vehicle on consignment and do not store the vehicle at our location. If you would like to see the vehicle in person, please contact us at 402.991.1112. HELPING NICE PEOPLE SELL NICE VEHICLES ONLINE The Internet Car Lot, Inc. is a Nebraska Licensed dealership located in Omaha, NE which helps private parties market and sell their vehicles worldwide using the power of the internet. We provide a safe and secure solution for buyers and sellers to purchase and sell vehicles with a reputable "brick and mortar" business. Not only do our buyers experience private party prices, they also receive all of the benefits of purchasing from a dealership including in-transits. OUR OWN AFFORDABLE VEHICLES We also maintain a small inventory of affordable cars that we sell directly to you with very minimal margins to keep our prices incredibly low! Our small overhead, low margins, and volume helps you get an affordable car at amazing prices! Contact us for our full affordable inventory today! NEED SHIPPING? WE WORK WITH OVER 3,000 SHIPPERS! We are happy to arrange shipping destination at competitive and reasonable rates. We work directly with over 3,000 dependable shipping companies to help you find an unbeatable price! All shippers are licensed, bonded, insured, and offer fast and secure delivery. Please call us at 402-991-1112 for a shipping quote delivered directly to your door! DO YOU FINANCE? Yes we offer financing. Please fill out a secure finance application here to get the process started or contact us at 402-991-1112. DO YOU ACCEPT TRADES? Yes we do! Please contact us with your detailed vehicle information for a quick trade quote back! NEED TO SELL YOUR VEHICLE? LET US DO ALL OF THE WORK! Let us list and sell your car, truck, or any other vehicle on eBay and over 400 websites! We take the photos, write the description, handle all of the phone calls & emails, do all of the paperwork, and much more! We're like realestate agents for vehicles! Have questions? Call us now at 402-991-1112 *Financing Available with Excellent Rates!* APPLY ONLINE NOW with our SECURE CREDIT APPLICATION here! Questions? Call us now @ 402-991-1112 Extended Warranties & Shipping Available! Additional Photos *Financing Available with Excellent Rates!* APPLY ONLINE NOW with our SECURE CREDIT APPLICATION here! Questions? Call us now @ 402-991-1112 Extended Warranties & Shipping Available! BUYER RESOURCES Contact Us For More Information, Please Call Us At 402-991-1112 Financing Information Financing Available with Excellent Rates! APPLY ONLINE NOW with our SECURE CREDIT APPLICATION here! Already Have Vehicle Financing Secured? In most cases, The Internet Car Lot can MATCH or BEAT your current financing rate giving you the added convenience of one stop shopping for your automotive needs. Contact us today at 402-991-1112 for more information, or fill out our Secure Online Credit Application to begin the pre-approval process today. Contact us today at 402-991-1112 for more information, or fill out our Online Credit Application to begin the pre-approval process today. Warranty Information Extended Warranties Available! We offer very affordable extended warranty protection including FACTORY TYPE COVERAGE, 100,000 MILE/8 YEAR coverage, FREE Roadside Assistance, and much more!If you are interested in purchasing an extended warranty protection for this vehicle, please call us at 402-991-1112 for more information! Shipping Information WE WORK WITH OVER 3,000 SHIPPERS! We are happy to arrange shipping destination at competitive and reasonable rates. We work directly with over 3,000 dependable shipping companies to help you find an unbeatable price! All shippers are licensed, bonded, insured, and offer fast and secure delivery. Please call us at 402-991-1112 for a shipping quote delivered directly to your door! Contact Us For More Information, Please Call Us At 402-991-1112 Terms of Sale Overview We reserve the right to end this listing at anytime should the vehicle no longer be available for sale. The following terms of sale apply to all of our listings. Payment Methods Certified check and bank wire transfer. We accept PayPal and credit cards (VISA, Master Card, American Express, and Discover) only for deposits, documentation fees, and vehicle details. If buyer is outside of the continental United States of America, payment will only be accepted by bank wire transfer. Fees Out of state buyers are responsible for all state, county, city taxes and fees, as well as title/registration fees in the state that the vehicle will be registered. We charge a $149 documentation fee for all buyers. Payment Terms The successful high bidder will submit a $500 non-refundable deposit and a $149 documentation fee within 24 hours of the close of the auction to secure the vehicle. Buyer agrees to pay remaining balance due (plus applicable fees and taxes) within 4 business days of the close of the auction. If funds are not received, and an alternate arrangement has not been made, the vehicle can and will be made available to other potential buyers on a first-come, first-serve basis. All financial transactions must be completed before delivery of the vehicle. If buyer is outside of the continental United States of America, the buyer must pay a $150 international documentation fee in addition to the regular $149 documentation fee. Vehicle Description Disclaimer The Internet Car Lot, Inc. is selling this vehicle on consignment for the vehicles current owner. The description listed above, has been given to us from the current vehicles owner. The Internet Car Lot, Inc. does an independent inspection of the vehicle's current condition and we do our best job to describe any defects or imperfections. Our inspection entails physical condition reports on the vehicle. We do not inspect or guarantee any mechanics of the vehicle. This includes but is not limited to the vehicles engine, transmission, suspension, mechanical equipment, electrical system, and vehicle electronics. Our inspection does not include the undercarriage of vehicles and any other area of the vehicle that cannot be seen by a person standing or walking around the vehicle on our showroom floor. Please note as with any used car sale, the vehicles are sold AS IS NO WARRANTY. Please note these inspections are performed by humans and humans can and do make mistakes. We do not claim or guarantee that the above inspection includes any or all physical defects. The Internet Car Lot, Inc. does not warrant or guarantee our customers descriptions. We simply provide owner descriptions for you to better understand the owners perspective on the vehicle. We do not guarantee or warrant owner statements such as but not limited to 'Original Vehicle, Numbers Matching, Family Owned' etc.. Aftermarket parts and accessories cannot be guaranteed or warranted under any circumstances. The owners are stating to the best of their knowledge what (if any) aftermarket parts and accessories are believed to be installed in the vehicle. Please note that the Descriptions are always written to the best of the owner's knowledge. Please feel free to contact us to receive a copy of the owners signed vehicle description disclaimer. We do OUR best by providing free Experian CarCheck reports for all cars and trucks 1981 and newer. Statements and odometer readings for vehicles older than 1981 that do not qualify for CarChecks, cannot be guaranteed as well. We also do our best to photograph the entire vehicles. Please feel free to contact us to view any of the photographs on our auction in their larger, original format. All mileage we list in our auctions is what was currently displayed on the vehicles odometer at the time of our listing unless otherwise known. For exempt mileage titled vehicles, the mileage on our auction will read what is currently displayed on the vehicles odometer unless otherwise known. Please note, mileage may increase due to the customer driving the vehicle during the auction. As always, please contact us for any clarification about the vehicle. Our promise to our customers is to bend over backwards in assisting all questions and discrepancies about the vehicle are answered timely and accurately. We do not use ANY photograph software to edit, cover up, hide, blur, distort, or enhance our pictures in any way. We simply take quality photographs under bright lights to show an honest representation of the vehicle's current condition. Please note, mileage may increase due to the customer driving the vehicle during the auction. AutoCheck reports that this vehicle was previously sold at a wholesale auto auction with a disclosure that the vehicle has frame/unibody damage or had frame/unibody damage. As always, please contact us for any clarification about the vehicle. Our promise to our customers is to bend over backwards in assisting all questions and discrepancies about the vehicle are answered timely and accurately. Disclaimer All vehicles are sold "as-is" and without warranty. Some vehicles will have factory warranty remaining (will be stated in our description). All cars come with one master key unless otherwise stated. Vehicles come with books and/or manuals only if pictured in photo gallery and/or if stated in the ad. We make every effort to present information that is accurate. However, it is based on data provided by the vehicle VIN decoding and/or other sources and therefore exact configuration, color, specifications & accessories should be used as a guide only and are not guaranteed. Under no circumstances will we be liable for any inaccuracies, claims or losses of any nature. Furthermore, inventory is subject to prior sale and prices are subject to change without notice. Prices do not include taxes, registration fees, finance and/or documentation charges, or shipping fees. To ensure your complete satisfaction, please verify accuracy prior to purchase. Online Bidders are entering into a legal and binding contract to purchase the vehicle described above. If you do not intend to purchase this item, DO NOT BID! We reserve the right to cancel bids and/or our auction at anytime for any reason. Quick Links Warranty Info Financing Info Shipping Info Terms of Sale PayPal VerifiedFor Online Deposit The Internet Car Lot Omaha NE Contact The Internet Car Lot Phone: 402-991-1112 Contact The Internet Car Lot for more information Phone: 402-991-1112 REQUEST MORE INFO It is the customer's sole responsibility to verify the existence and condition of any equipment listed. Neither the dealership nor eBizAutos is responsible for misprints on prices or equipment. It is the customer's sole responsibility to verify the accuracy of the prices with the dealer, including the pricing for all added accessories. Copyright © 2001-2015 eBizAutos. All Rights Reserved. eBay Motors Software by eBizAutos Counter Provided by eBizAutos.com

SUN DOLPHIN PRO 120 FISHING BOAT BASS Titled

SUN DOLPHIN PRO 120 FISHING BOAT BASS Titled

$1,000

Garland, Texas

Year 1996

Make SUN DOLPHIN

Model PRO 120 FISHING BOAT BASS

Category Bass Boats

Length 12.0

Posted Over 1 Month

Sun Dolphin Pro 2-Man 120 Fishing Boat Professionally, I restore Bass Trackers. I am at the brim with 5 trackers in line to be restored. I took this one in on trade, and even though I don't do these, I had it cleaned it up some for sale. You can see in the pictures that this boat looks really good. The pictures will not deceive you, it looks that good. You can start using the boat now. No leaks in the hull, I know because it's been raining and the plug was left in. Everything else on the boat works. You will see that. The trolling motor is new and strong with a 2 yr warranty, it will move you around nicely. If you go to walmart.com and enter "Sun Dolphin Pro-man 120 fishing boat" ($1700.00 without the trailer, battery and motor) you will see 12 actual reviews from people who own them. Also, on the same site search: "Minn Kota Endura C2 30-lb. Thrust Trolling Motor with 30" Shaft", you will be able to see what 163 actual owners of this motor have said about it and how well it works with a boat of this size. This is a very good price on this boat with the trailer and the new motor, I added a new bilge pump at 800 gph with a switch to keep things dry inside. The battery is an actual Deep Cycle Marine battery.This boat also comes with a great "Snug Harbor" trailer, super nice trailer , tires are good. The spare is flat but I'll fix it, and the trailer lights are not coming on, and I'll repair that before delivery. I will take the "buy it now" with out you seeing it first, but why not come by and look maybe look at a new one with a trailer first. I have the titles (required to operate on Texas waterways)on the boat and trailer. I repeat do not buy a boat to use in Texas without a title. This would be perfect for your pond or small lake. With this trailer you can launch it in almost no water. If you don't have a way to pick it up and you are local, we can probably work something out on a delivery. I have an unemployed neighbor with a truck and a hitch. He's cheap, but good.The manufacturer of this boat advertises that it is rated for a 15 hp gas engine. I don't want to get in trouble with that corporation, but this boat won't handle that much weight, If you put that much weight on it, it will eventually snap, or bend the transom. The way to own it is the way I have it set up. as you can see in the picture it has a trolling motor mount on the front from the factory and is pre-wired for it. Two trolling motors with another battery, that would be sweet. This motor comes with a two year warranty. Read the comments on walmart.com on the motor about how long the batteries will last with these motors. Last long time!Next, if you think you are going to pick one of these up and load it in your pickup like they show in the pictures than you should think again. It will take at least three strong men to load it. My feedback is great, I need the room, no surprises here. What you buy, is what you'll get. Buy it, you will love it.

2015 Moomba Mojo

2015 Moomba Mojo

$65,900

Nisswa, Minnesota

Year 2015

Make Moomba

Model Mojo

Category Ski And Wakeboard Boats

Length 23'

Posted Over 1 Month

2015 Moomba Mojo 2015 Moomba Mojo Up for sale is a 2015 Moomba Mojo. Powered by the leading Ford Raptor 6.2Litre 400 pounds of torque. Tandem axle trailer Full cover upgraded zero cruise control Snap out carpet Bimini top Easy fold S-bend tower Fusion stereo with bluetooth and Aux plugs Full ballast system FALL UNDER THE SPELL The new 23-foot Moomba Mojo is casting a “no worries” spell on true water sports warriors with professional-level wakeboard wakes, competition-worthy surf waves, magical handling and great rough water ride all for a reasonable price. The Mojo enchants even skeptics with a beautifully durable and comforting interior. The new wider and longer stature of this Moomba has allowed for more seating and storage. This spaciousness also directly relates to more Gravity III-D Ballast standard. Weighing in with 2000 pounds of ballast, the 2015 Mojo conjures-up huge shapely wakes right off the factory floor. If you are looking to coax even more surf performance out of the Mojo, opt for the Surf Edition, which adds another 500-pound plumbed-in bow sack and Flow Surf. With as much as 2500 pounds of ballast and 23-feet of wake boat to get on plane, the Mojo requires the low-end power that only an engine built for pulling can provide. The 2015 Mojo comes standard with the new 400 6.2 liter Ford Raptor by Indmar. This Raptor engine cranks-out 400 foot pounds of torque to get any rider or surfer up and on the water in seconds without the driver ever loosing sight of the horizon. You’re going to have to experience the magical powers of the 2015 Moomba Mojo to believe it. Wakeboard Wakes The 2015 Moomba Mojo was designed from the water level up with the goal of high wakeboarding performance in mind. Wether you're a beginner just learning to ride at seventeen miles per hour or a seasoned professional riding in excess of 25 MPH, the new Mojo hull design produces a meaty wake with progressive ramp and a nice kicker at a full range of line lengths. With 2000 pounds of Gravity III-D Ballast standard in the Mojo, this Moomba is ready to shred straight off the factory floor. Monitor ballast levels and control the boat’s set speed through the Digital Cruise Pro II display at the dash. This system is easily expandable with plumbed-in quick-connect universal ballast fittings in the rear to allow the boat’s wakeboarding performance to grow with your skills. Adjust the automatic Multi-Sport Wakeplate with the customizable ballast to achieve your perfect wake shape and size. But because we know you do more behind your boat than wakeboard the Mojo’s water sports performance doesn’t stop there. Slalom Wake Versatility is one of Moomba’s hallmarks, right up there with performance, value, fun, simplicity and reliability. We build boats to perpetuate the wate

1950 Chris Craft 19' Racing Runabout - One off boat with ML 145hp Hercules

1950 Chris Craft 19' Racing Runabout - One off boat with ML 145hp Hercules

$63,500

Barrington, Illinois

Year 1950

Make Chris Craft

Model Racing Runabout

Category -

Length 19.0

Posted Over 1 Month

Up for sale for the first time since her total restoration in 1991 is this one of a kind 19’ Chris Craft 1950 Racing Runabout. Out of 503 R19 Racing Runabouts produced, she is the only craft to receive an ML 145hp engine and is one of 206 varnished hulls produced out of that number. Purchased in South Bend, Indiana in 1990, a two year painstaking restoration produced a boat that was exactly as she was made in 1950 at the Algonac, Michigan plant. This boat is as original as it gets from the Reed & Prince screws, seat cushions, 6v. system, original chrome and stainless to the diagonal inner planking with canvas and wood plank bottom. Years were spent researching the archives at Newport News to find only the rarest of boats. The hope is that you appreciate the endeavor to preserve history for future generations and respect the originality and integrity of R-19-291. She is better than the day she was made. Shown by appointment. Water test and Marine survey available at buyers expense.

Rebel 16 Mark II Sailboat with Aluminum Trailer

Rebel 16 Mark II Sailboat with Aluminum Trailer

$999

Angola, Indiana

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category Daysailer Sailboats

Length 16.6'

Posted Over 1 Month

Stable fiberglass sailing boat carries six people (or 1170 pounds). Includes trailer, full rigging, and TWO suits of sails. One suit of sails is in like new condition, the other set is in very good condition. Serial number 1929 (built in late sixties to early seventies I believe). The centerboard swings up into the cockpit, so you can change the depth to dock in shallow water. The rudder also swivels up if it hits an obstruction. The trolling motor in the photos is not included. There is, however a permanent motor mount on the stern. The boat will take up to a 5hp motor, but my 30lb. thrust trolling motor drives it around just fine. The boat is located on West Otter Lake, Angola, IN. Buyer with the selling price in cash or Pay Pal payment can drive it away. (Trailer takes an 1 7/8" ball hitch.) The following article from Sailing Magazine gives a great description of Rebel sailboats. You can access the original on SailingMagazine.net. Rebel 16 2008 January 8 By Staff This nimble and tough classic is perfect for a daysail or a day of racing This year the boat that holds claim to being America's first production fiberglass one-design will celebrate its 60th birthday. That the boat is still in production makes this milestone that much more remarkable. In 1948, fresh out of the Navy, Ray Greene began building a 16-foot family daysailer out of his Toledo, Ohio, shop using a revolutionary new material called fiberglass. The design of the boat was based on lines drawn by a local high school drawing instructor by the name of Alvin Younquist. With its wide, 6-foot, 7-inch beam and 110-pound steel centerboard the stable little boat known as the Rebel soon became a hit on the Midwest's inland lakes. And while Greene said he never intended to create a racer, thanks to the boat's performance-courtesy of a large 120-square-foot main and 46-square-foot jib on a fractional rig-it wasn't long before a competitive structure was built around the boat. By 1952 a class association had been firmly established and by 1963 the class boasted 138 active members. Not bad. Fleets started popping up across the Midwest, south into Kentucky and all the way down to Texas. Meanwhile, class members could be found sailing the inland lakes of the Eastern Seaboard from New York to Florida. After 25 years of building the Rebel, with more than 3,000 hulls produced, Greene was ready to call it quits and sold the works to a group of Chicago investors. Production of the Rebel continued at a steady pace during the 1970s, and was done under a number of names: Melling Tool Co., Rebel Industries and finally Spindrift One Designs. After Spindrift folded, the Rebel moved to Michigan in 1988 when Nickels Boat Works of Fenton took over with the production of the Mark V model. Nickels continues to build the Rebel, offering buyers a choice of a daysailer version for $9,860 or the optimum racing version for $11,872 less sails and trailer. A stainless steel centerboard now comes standard with the Rebel. Nickels also continues to be a great source for parts and accessories, as well as information, on the Rebel. One tough Rebel While there have been reports of problems with the foam flotation on older boats becoming waterlogged, that has been less of a problem on boats from the 1970s and later. Other than that, a buyer of a used Rebel should find few issues with the condition of this durable little boat. Indeed, boats 25 years and older will still top regatta leaderboards. "They're well made, very rugged boats that will last forever," said Al Vorel, National Rebel Association Commodore, who has been racing the same boat, No. 3914, for almost 20 years. "You don't have to run out every 5 to 10 years to buy a new boat." This is one of the reasons for the longevity of the class. Boats tend to stay in the family, passed down from parent to child, with the younger generations wanting to keep the racing going. "My mother races, and my daughter sometimes races, so there are times we'll have three generations on the course," Vorel said. This also, of course, keeps a lot of boats off the market, and finding a used Rebel can be a bit of a challenge. But thanks to the Internet, it's possible to locate a few sellers. Prices can vary from just under $1,000 for an older boat in need of some work to $3,000 or more for a later model. Buyers can typically expect to pay in the neighborhood of $1,500 for a pre-Nickels-era boat in good shape. We were fortunate enough to find a late 1970s Rebel listed for sale on www.craigslist.org. Better yet, the seller was within trailering distance. The offer on the boat was $1,400, so we drove out to take a look. The boat was well cared for, kept under a roof winters, and showed no structural damage. Other than some algae stains and scuff marks the finish looked good, and all the gear was there, including the main and jib, which the owner said he bought new about seven years ago. We did see some possible issues, including a rusty, pitted centerboard and a wooden rudder that looked to have some rotting. So we offered to pay the full $1,400 if the owner threw in the trailer, which he originally wanted an extra $200 for. The deal was closed and we drove off with the Rebel in tow. Rebel with a cause With the boat parked in our yard the first item of business we wanted to take care of was the rusty centerboard. Nickels offers a stainless steel replacement board, and we could picture how sweet the boat would look with a shiny new stainless fin. Unfortunately, these centerboards run close to $1,000; more than two-thirds the cost of the entire boat. So such an extravagant purchase didn't make much sense. Instead we set about rehabilitating the old board. We removed, with a bit of difficulty, the 110-pound board and set in on sawhorses. The first step was to remove the old paint using paint stripper, then power sanding. We then slathered on some Duro Naval Jelly to remove the rust, wiping down everything with paper towels then finishing up with a clean, acetone-soaked rag. Next, we filled in the pits and hollows with West Marine Surfacing Putty, and sanded everything smooth. We made certain the blade was fair by running a straight edge along the board. We also further faired the rounded leading edge of the board to within the class rule limits, which prohibit tapering less than 1/16th of an inch and more than one inch in from the leading edge. We then primed the board with several coats of Interlux Primocon primer, which when dried we wet sanded with 400-grit paper, and finished with a couple coats of Interlux VC-17m Extra bottom paint. With the centerboard done, we then turned to the rudder. An ice pick determined the wood was beginning to rot near the lower trailing edge. We probably could have rehabilitated the rudder as well, but since we had saved some money by not replacing the centerboard we decided to spring for a new rudder. We opted for a fiberglass blade, supplied by Nickels for $375. This cost covered just the blade, as the original aluminum rudder cheeks and hardware were still in good shape. While we were on the phone with Nickels, we decided to order all new running rigging to replace the weathered lines the boat came with. This included lines for the cunningham, boom vang, centerboard system, as well as sheets and halyards for both main and jib. The total for 112 feet of ¼-inch line and 105 feet of 5/16-inch line came to $100. Next we took a closer look at the standing rigging. The spars showed no defects, and with a bit of metal polish and elbow grease the rotating mast, boom and aluminum whisker pole looked good as new. The 1-by-9 stainless steel shrouds and forestay also showed no visible defects. We did, however, find the diamond stays on the mast to be tuned rather tight. According to the North Sail's One-Design tuning guide for the Rebel, an overly tight diamond can limit fore and aft mast bend, and can even cause negative pre-bend, where the mast bends forward at the tip. Since we want to have a competitive boat, we loosened the diamond tension and will readjust after doing some sea trials. As we said, we ultimately wanted to race our Rebel and didn't want a slow boat. So obviously the 7-year-old suit of sails had to go. This would be our biggest expense, and a new suit of sails would alone exceed the original cost of the boat. A new main and standard jib (a light air jib is also available) from North Sails set us back $1,615, which included $20 for class royalties but not shipping. Certainly this was a blow to our budget, but we rationalized it by thinking about the fun we would be having with some close racing come summer. Our last order of business was getting our bottom clean and smooth. We first scrubbed the hull down with a detergent then wet sanded everything below the rails to a slick surface with 1,200-grit paper. After a rinse and wipe down with the hose and clean towels we were satisfied we had a slick bottom. We finished off by treating all our hardware and moving bits to a little McLube Sailkote spray. We now have what we feel will be a contender on the course for our racing crew of two. Yet, with the roomy Rebel cockpit that can seat six, we're also looking forward to some lazy summer daysailing when friends and family show up. Either way, we'll certainly get our money's worth from this tough but nimble little classic. LOA 16' 1.5" LWL 15' 10" Beam 6' 7.5" Draft 3' 4" Weight 700 lbs, Sail area 166 sq. ft.

33' Water Taxi 24 Person NON SINKABLE w/ Head! 1991 6B Cummins 414 original hrs

33' Water Taxi 24 Person NON SINKABLE w/ Head! 1991 6B Cummins 414 original hrs

$26,950

Del Rio, Texas

Year 1991

Make Willard

Model LCPL 33

Category -

Length 33.0

Posted Over 1 Month

Office: 830-775-2580 - Customer Service [email protected] - Shipping quotes: [email protected] Our Asset #:RYB610 / 70 Qty available:1 33' Water Taxi 24 Person NON SINKABLE w/ Head! 1991 6B Cummins 414 original hrs Gallery Photo This price is FOB our location w/o S&H: $26,950.00 Below is the price with free shipping to lower 48. If no price in this box there is no free shipping States: Note: All free shipping is quoted to BUSINESSES WITH DOCKS, FORKLIFTS OR FOR PICKUP OR AT LOCAL TERMINAL If there is no price above please contact us for shipping quote as shipping prices vary greatly on freight items. NEW REPLACEMENT COST OR WHEN NEW: Click here to view our profile : King Surplus - Better Business Bureau Manufactures Tag: We can assist buyer with shipping quotes Worldwide! FRONT CABIN: L-7' 7" x W 7' 11" x 6'5" Headroom (floor to ceiling) REAR CABIN: L- 8' 3.5" x W- 7' 11" x H- 6' Headroom (floor to ceiling) The engine has been winterized and tagged for storage What they look like in the water repainted Manufacturer: Model: WILLARD Serial #: Last 4 of HIN: 9006; Year: 1991 HP/Amp/KW/KVA: Voltage: Phase: Other Info: General Photos: Background Our attempt to answer buyer questions in advance or to give a little history as represented to us. We are not making any representations simply passing along 3rd party info. This vessel was a US Navy Admirals or Captain's personal and/or VIP Taxi. The are affectionally called Admirals Gigs or Captain's Gigs but technically they are taxis and the US Coast Guard will recognize it as such. If you are looking for a commercial taxi this vessel will be easy to walk through the passenger approval process. If your interested in having an UNSINKABLE YACHT and a safe and secure DIY personal yacht for your friends and family this is one anyone can put their personal touch on and they are very easy to convert to a personal Yacht, Dive Boat or combo Dive / Sport Fishing boat. We have bought and sold dozens and dozens of these vessels over the years and this is a top of the line vessel. Actually we have never had one with all these features:There were many manufactures of these type of vessels and WILLARD is not only by far the very best manufacture but they are still in business.Of those the WILLARD MK7 DOUBLE CABIN 33 (WDC33) is the best of all.The most prized of the WDC33 have Cummins 6B engines. Of those;The one most prized is the one with the head! This boat has it. Of those the most valuable are:Low engine hours: This one only has 414 hrs. And,The original ship's dolly / yard trailer. (Not included in this price but is optional for $2800) That is a lot of top rated features, but if you don't know what's a captain's Gig is you might not begun to appreciate or understand the opportunity here. FYI: Captain's Gigs "were" the personal taxi of the Admiral's, Captain or high ranking officer on a Naval vessels. Under a directive issued by Naval Air Forces, all 11 carriers were required to turn in their captain’s gigs before June 30, 2009. “Removal of the captain’s gig was done to reduce maintenance costs and free up valuable hangar bay space required by the boats. See article:http://www.navytimes.com/news/2008/02/navy_captgigs_080210w/ The temporary windfall for buyers like ourselves is the ability to own a perfectly good Captain's / Officers transport that was removed due to US Naval Forces directive and not age or mechanical reasons. But this edict was in 2008 and all Captain's Gigs were removed by June 2009. This is one of the last of it's kind, we might not see this opportunity again. ***ALL WEIGHTS AND MEASUREMENTS PROVIDED ARE APPROXIMATE AND MAY VARY*** ENGINE CUMMINS FUEL: DIESEL TOTAL ENGINE HOURS: 414 Specs Builder: Willard Capacity Including Crew 24 1991 WILLARD DOUBLE CABIN CAPTAIN'S GIG w/ head HULL MATERIAL: FIBERGLASS SINGLE SKIN; Dimensions LOA: 33' Beam: 11' Maximum Draft: 4' Displacement: 15,000 lbs Engines Engine Brand: Cummins Engine(s) HP: 220 Engine Model: BTA5.9-220 Engine Hours: 414 Tanks Fuel Tanks: DieselAccommodations Forward and aft cabins, center cockpit. Forward cabin with settes on both sides. Aft cabin with a U-shaped settee. Cushions are like new. Opening ports and hatch and fixed window.Center Cockpit Access to both FWD & AFT cabins HEAD in AFT cabin ELECTRO-SAN TOILET 3 piece windshield w/ hinged center Helm controls, engine instruments, electrical control panel Engine access, fuel tank access attachment points for canvas coverElectrical System Shore power and 24v systems 55amp alternator Control & distribution panel with switches and fuses. 30 amp 125v block heater. 2 new 12v batteries. Fused DC panel.Deck Hardy gray, non-skid,S/S handrails forward and aft, handholds throughout Oversized S/S cleats (6) Sampson Post Fold down radar post Anchor lights, nav lightsAdditional 2 Rule heavy duty electric bilge pumpsManual diaphragm bilge pump at helm2 attachment points with chain for crane liftFURUNO RADARHOISTING SLING (STOWED IN AFT CABIN)FULL FLOTATION (FLOAT HULL AND OCCUPANTS IF SUBMERGED) DISCREPANCIES:PROPELLER REMOVED FOR TRANSPORT AND STOWED ON BOATVHF ANTENNA BROKENCOMPASS MISSINGSTEERING WHEEL MISSINGNeed to replace electronicsNOTE: CRADLE/TRAILER NOT INCLUDED IN SALE BUT AVAILABLE FOR $2800 OBO... Answer to many questions: The boat does run and is sea worthy, it will require new batteries, oil & filters. Personally, I would plan to flush fuel tanks and a few days of general maintenanceWe do not financeWould consider tradesThe boat could be used as is but would probably be a wise investment to paint the bottom and possibly the topThe boat is in a secure storage yard and can be inspected at 100 Ave. T Del Rio Texas 78840The vessel is sold ASIS However we will guaranty our word, description and photos with a 14 day money back guarantee.The boat is 200 miles away from the Sea and can not be splashed and driven away from it's current location. However, we do have trucks to haul to the marina or port of your choice. Shipping inside the State of Texas is $2.50 per mile + permits.What would it need to splash the boat and drive away? New batteries, change oil and filters, other items such as but not limited to compass, life jackets and other safety equipment required by coast guard, VHF radio and make ready as would be required with any vessel that sat for a while.The boat does not have a bimini topYard trailer is not DOT LEGAL, it's sole purpose is to move the boat around the ship and yardCrane Load out fee is $700 which will be in addition to the purchase priceDelivery is available anywhere in the world. Inland shipping is approximately $2.50 per mile + permits & escort if needed. If you have any additional questions pls call us or have your broker call us. 1991 Willard 33 FT w/head 6B Cummins USS John C. Stennis CVN 74 CAPTAINS GIG Estimated insurance value from survey $34,500.00 ***ALL WEIGHTS AND MEASUREMENTS PROVIDED BY MANUFACTURE AND ARE APPROXIMATE AND MAY VARY*** Inspections are our findings only and not representation of fitness for a purpose 4. Used: Powered up in our shop and appears to be functional Inspection 2. WE GUARANTY OUR WORKMANSHIP & OUR WORD ONLY: 14 Day return if asset is not as shown in our ad WHEN PICKED UP AT OUR WAREHOUSE: We do not refund for freight damage items but will assist buyers with documents for freight claims. *Factory Information* King Surplus is not making any representations, warranty of merchantability or any implied warranty of fitness for a particular purpose. For reference only: We offer Assistance Shipping & Packaging Worldwide as follows:1. All shipping is quoted to BUSINESSES WITH DOCKS, FORKLIFTS OR FOR PICKUP OR AT LOCAL TERMINAL. 2. All PayPal payments require us to ship to address shown on PayPal and not on your account. Please make sure you add the correct delivery address to your PayPal account. 3. RESIDENTIAL & LIGHT COMMERCIAL ITEMS: Residential delivery for items under 70 lbs that can be shipped via USPS, UPS or FedEx will require additional services averaging about 10 dollars to deliver. Palletized freight items, bulky items or items that weigh more than USPS, UPS or FedEx will take, must go freight. 4. ACCESSORIAL FEES: Delivery to non-commercial areas, i.e. farms, business' that require liftgates, home business' or residential areas require additional fees charged by freight carriers to deliver in residential areas. Other accessorial fees will be incurred for inside delivery, delivery to a limited access or secured facility, notification before hand, appointment, time sensitive delivery, etc... If notification is not made prior to delivery and you request these services, you will have to pay for these services before delivery is authorized. Shipping quotes are given based on business with dock or forklift to business with dock or forklift or for pickup at the local terminal, these quotes are based on not need any accessorials. Any shipping outside of these parameters will incur extra fees from the freight company and you will be required to pay for these services within 24 hours of notification of these services. Very few of our items include free shipping so qualify this before purchase. ALL FREE SHIPPING ON FREIGHT ITEMS IS CALCULATED TO BUSINESS WITH DOCK OR FORKLIFT TO UNLOAD unless it is a small USPS, UPS or FedEx item. Additional residental or accessorials are extra as is crating. For shipping quotes email our Asset # at the top of this page to: [email protected], be sure to included:1. Is delivery to business or residence? 2. Do you have dock or forklift to unload or will you need assistance with unloading? 3. Address, zip code 3. Business and if it is a business 4. Contact information including a phone number incase our logistics teams has questions Packing Required for safe shipment & estimated Fees: CRADLE - $2800 Conditions for Rigging, Packaging & Shipping KSC has been in the AUCTION / LIQUIDATION business 44 years and we liquidate over 1 million items per year. All items are forsale at our 100,000 sqft warehouse and Brick & Mortor Store. Buyers are welcome and incouraged to stop by to inspect items or browse our inventory of more than 50,000 items. All sales are FOB Del Rio Texas 78840 unless otherwise stated in our ads. BUYERS are 100% responsible for their packaging & shipping choices. Packaging & Shipping is a managed RISK and normally the cheaper the packaging or shipping the higher the risk. By bidding or buying on a KSC item buyers agree to hold KSC completely harmless for any damage or delay to their purchase whatsoever. If a buyer fails to recognize this aspect of our terms and conditions after purchase but before leaving our facility KSC will refund the purchase price less a 10% handling fee to resell. BUYERS are welcome to use the SHIPPER of their choice or pick up themselves. Buyers may also load and package items them selves at our on site sales however they must have all the proper insurance requirements. Large items may require Rigging or Crane Fees: Rigging fees typically run $35 per 1,000 lb's. but feel free to ask at time of purchase. Estimated rigging fees for this asset are: KSC Tag: WEIGHTS & MEASUREMENTS: Asset Location: TX Del Rio 78840 Area: Length: Width: Height: a. Est. Wt. each: LB'S b. Est. packaging wt: 0 c. Est. total wt: 0 d. 0 Sug. 0 TERMS & CONDITIONS 1. SALES TAX: Buyers are responsible to pay sales tax in their State. Out of State buyers shipping items to themselves are tax exempt under Texas law with a legitimate shipping bill of laden from an ICC licensed shipper. However, Texas law requires that out of State buyers that pick up their items personally must pay Texas Sales tax. Texas residents or businesses must pay sales tax unless they provide a valid Texas Resale or Tax Exempt Certificate. We check all certificates with the State. 2. We are liquidators and not dealers: We only have what you see in our photos and that is all we guaranty. KSC staff will answer questions to the best of their ability and experience. Unfortunately, KSC CAN NOT make guaranties as to fitness for a particular purpose nor do we repair or sell parts. Buyers are responsible to satisfy themselves as to the merchantability or fitness for their purpose. 3. We GUARANTY OUR WORD & WORKMANSHIP ONLY: If the asset the buyer receives is not as shown in our photos, video or if we made an error in the description we offer a 14 day money back guaranty from the date of payment. Why from date of payment and not date of receipt? Texas consignment law and our contract requires us to pay our clients 20 days from receipt of payment. 4. YELLOW > CONNECTED TO POWER: When possible we attempt to power up assets. However we do not have 440 volt power, if you do not see a YELLOW TAG that may be why.... Additionally, just because we power up an asset our folks many not have the expertises to properly operate the machine. Buyers are welcome to come by or send their representative by to test and inspect the asset. Feel free to ask if you have questions. 5. UNKNOWN: There are times when our staff may not have the training or expertise to make a condition statement. In these cases they will simply state the manufactures name, model and photograph the factory tag and show condition as UNKNOWN. We will photograph any apparent missing items or damage. However we might not know when some parts or pieces are missing so it will be the buyers responsibility to insure they know what they are buying. ALL UNKNOWN assets are sold ASIS WITH NO RETURNS WHATSOEVER. 6. BUYERS REMORSE: If you make a mistake just tell us the truth and we will try to help you. Send us a message with BUYERS REMORSE in the subject and our customer service manager will contact you directly to try to help. Again, just be honest.... We are good people and willing to help, if you look at our feedback you will see that we bend over backwards to help our customers. 7. NOT HAPPY: Call us! We are a family company, to us this is not "just business" it's PERSONAL! There is almost nothing we can't help you with..... Leaving NF will not help your cause.... 9. PAYMENT TERMS: a. If ANY buyer has a legitimate claim on any asset we have sold within the scope of our written guaranty & return period we will happily give the buyer a refund after they have returned the item. Just FYI: In Texas it is illegal to purchase an item from a retailer then stop payment with out first returning the item and any amount is over $700 it is a felony. Keep in mind that just because a credit card company or PayPal allows a buyer to stop payment does not change Texas law....... This is public notice, as required by law, that we AUTOMATICALLY file charges WITHOUT NOTICE on all theft by check, ACH and credit card purchasers. We can be counted upon to do the right thing and we expect others to do the same. b. Our payment terms are strictly adhered to: 1. Payment in full is due with in 48 hours on all items below $10K. Any item above $10K we require payment in full or a 10% non-refundable deposit with in 48 hours and the balance in full is required with in 7 calendar days. 2. We accept the following methods of payment: a. Up to $2000 Paypal b. Up to $4000 MasterCard or Visa through our Merchant account (NOT THROUGH PAYPAL). c. Up to $10,000 Company check if over nighted (10 day hold for clearing). NO SNAIL MAIL PLEASE! d. Over $10k or INTERNATIONAL BUYERS Bank transfer only. 10. Venue: All KSC offerings, sales and agreements are in Del Rio, Val Verde County Texas regardless of their location. We are required to operate under Texas law including Texas Sales Tax rules and other laws regardless where the sale is made or shipped to. By bidding buyer agrees to our standard terms & conditions for all sales: Click hereJurisdiction/Venue: This agreement is deemed to be entered into, executed, and performed in DEL RIO Texas and shall be construed, interpreted, governed, and enforces in accordance with the law of the State of Texas. The proper Venue for enforcement of this agreement shall be Val Verde County, Texas.

14' Aluminum Jon Boat, 9.9 Johnson Outboard, Trailer, Fuel Tank and Line

14' Aluminum Jon Boat, 9.9 Johnson Outboard, Trailer, Fuel Tank and Line

$1,199

Heber Springs, Arkansas

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Posted Over 1 Month

This is a solid little boat--great fishing or hunting platform, wider and more stable than most 14' boats. It is 36" wide at the chine (bottom) and 56" at the widest part of the gunwale. No leaks, hull is in great condition. Camo paint job, ready for duck season. Motor has just been professionally serviced. I understand that it was re-fitted with a 15 hp carb kit at some point and it runs like it has but I will stick with the factory spec of 9.9 hp. Comes with the following: *Yes, I have the title *Anchor *Live well may be plugged to use as dry storage *Three bench seats plus forward deck *New fuel tank *New fuel line *Yacht Club trailer with new light kit, good tires, bearings packed *1 7/8" ball mounted on 2" receiver adapter. Just plug it into your 2" receiver. *Trolling motor mount *Minn Kota trolling motor with foot control and battery, new battery box. NOTE: This motor has always worked great but in preparing the boat for sale I could not get it to run. Steering would work but prop would not spin. May be something minor but in interest of full disclosure, that is it's current condition. *Trailer tongue has a very slight bend, could be fixed but does not affect towing in any way.

Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619

Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619

$1

El Cajon, California

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Posted Over 1 Month

We buy, sell, trade, tune-up, and repair all brands, years, sizes and lengths of outboard motors including: Johnson, Evinrude, Mercury, Sears, Wards, Mariner, British Seagull, SeaKing, Clinton, Elgin, Eska, Aero Marine, Gamefisher, Cruise'n Carry, Force, Ted Williams, and numerous others in addition to: Honda, Nissan, Suzuki, Tanaka, Tohatsu, Yamaha, etc. We also carry used propellers for most of the above brands (it is best to bring your old propeller or outboard with you for a perfect fit). We have some lower units, power tilt and trim units, various used electric starters and small electric trolling motors for sale (great for kids on a small boat on a lake). Turn-around time, for carry-in repairs is about 5 business days or less.(depending on parts availability). A larger motor attached to your boat usually takes 1 to 2 days. We also rebuild electric and pull-starters for all motors and we have a huge selection of used outboard motors for sale ranging from 1hp to 250hp. All our motors have been serviced and ready to go. We do remove and install large outboard motors of all sizes. Call Marty at 619 - 972 - 9998 to discuss your motor. If no answer, please leave a message and I will get back to you as soon as possible. Please repeat your phone number twice because sometimes it is not clear. Often we can help you fix your problem on the phone at no cost. (Please no E-mails or texts). When you bring it in, we will give your outboard motor a compression and spark test, diagnose your engine, and tell you what it needs in repairs to get it back in good running condition. We will repair your motor at your request, answer your questions and make suggestions. Most of our business is by recommendation of satisfied customers. We will do everything possible to make you one. If we do not have the size or brand of outboard that you are looking for, ask us to put your name on our list and we will call you if and when such an outboard arrives. ------------------------------------- USEFUL TIPS & INFORMATION: ------------------------------ (1) All 2 stroke outboard engines made after 1963 require a 50:1 mixture (3 ounces of 2 stroke outboard motor oil per gallon of gas). The actual amount is 2.6 ounces per gallon (a little extra won't hurt, but less can cause severe damage to your engine). NOTE: NEVER use 100:1 as recommended by some manufacturers. It will cause your engine to lose compression and die prematurely. The only lubrication that your engine gets is from the oil that is mixed with the gas, therefore use 50:1 to be safe. (2) Older outboards (pre 1963) require double the amount of oil 25:1 mixture (6 ounces per gallon), some require a 16:1 mixture (8 ounces per gallon), and BRITISH SEAGULL engines require a 10:1 mixture (13 ounces per gallon). (3) 4 stroke outboards do not need oil mixed with the gas. Make sure the crankcase is full of oil (check the dipstick). If by mistake you ran your 4 stroke with oil mixed with gas do not be concerned. It's OK. (4) Always carry a minimum amount of tools like screwdrivers (blade and Phillips head), socket set including a spark plug socket, combination wrenches, vice grips, pliers, fire extinguisher, drift or punch to drive out a broken shear pin, a can of WD - 40, and a spray can of carburetor cleaner for starting emergencies, and a few extra new spark plugs (pre-gapped) in case yours become fouled, a new gas filter if your gas line has one, a tire pressure gauge, a long magnet and (extra-long) forceps (in case you drop a nut or a bolt), and a small flashlight. AVOID USING STARTER FLUID because it contains ether (bad for outboards). Also carry a pair of extra shear pins and cotter pins (for most outboards less than 35hp). And also a few small hose clamps to tighten a loose or leaking fuel line (see tip #53 below). (5) For small outboards under 40hp, keep the clamp handle screws greased so they will not freeze up from oxidation or salt. (6) For all outboards that have remote steering, grease the steering cable often if you go out in salt water to prevent the cable from "seizing up" and causing a costly repair. (7) For all outboards, starting it several times a year keeps everything "limber". (8) For all outboards, flushing your outboard in fresh water for 5 minutes after each saltwater use will prevent costly cooling system repairs. NOTE: Do not flush your motor in saltwater. Use a barrel, or a garden hose hooked up to outboard "earmuffs" or any other device made for your motor. (9) If you carry your small outboard motor in the bed of a pick-up truck, always tie it down securely or it might break the tiller or shift handle by rolling. (10) For all outboards, check your propeller for broken blades or chunks missing from any blade. Operating any outboard with uneven prop blades will cause vibration and damage to seals and other internal parts of the lower unit. Also it is best to carry a spare prop. (Approx. cost $50 for a used one) . (11) Spray a thin coat of WD 40 all around the powerhead of your outboard. It will not make your engine run better, but it will protect it from rust and salt deposits. (12) For pull start outboards, check the entire pull cord for signs of wear. You wouldn't want to break a pull cord when you are out fishing. (13) For electric start outboards, always carry 2 fully charged batteries in case one battery loses its charge. (14) For small (tiller steering) outboards up to 35hp, attach a short chain, cable or heavy rope (one end attached to your outboard's clamp section, and the other end attached to the transom of your boat) as a safety to prevent your motor from falling overboard. (15) For all outboards, in the event that you remove the top cowling to check your engine, put the cowling down away from the edge of the boat since any wave might send the cowling to the bottom of the ocean or lake. It will be difficult to locate a replacement. (16) For all outboards, most engine failure is a result of overheating. Always check the temp. gauge (if you have one) or by watching the "pisser". If you see steam coming out, shut the engine to avoid costly damage. Check the bottom of the lower unit to see if you picked up some vegetation, or a plastic bag which may be blocking your water intake. If you do not find anything, you may have a bad impeller or a bad water-pump housing. The best thing to do is, try (if possible) to get towed back by any good natured person in the area, or call "VESSEL ASSIST". If you do not have "Vessel Assist Insurance", it will be quite costly. To avoid all of the above, it is best to change your impeller every 2 years or sooner. Whether you use your outboard frequently, occasionally, or just once in 2 years, it is time more than wear that ruins the impeller. (17) If you own a boat (any kind), always remember to replace the drain plug in the stern (rear) before you go out, or the boat will slowly fill with water. This event happens to everyone at some time. It is best to make a check list and review it before you launch. (Also keep a spare drain plug near the drain-hole in your boat in case the original one gets "lost"). (18) For portable outboards, it is best (if possible) to mount the motor on land before you launch in the ocean, because any wave can cause you to drop your motor while you are mounting it. (19) For outboards with an integral gas tank (one that is built-in to your engine), always carry extra fuel and a FUNNEL, or much of the extra gas will be lost when pouring to re-fill your integral tank. (20) For pull-start outboards and some bigger electric starting engines, you should have a separate emergency starter rope with a handle in case your starter spring fails, or the rope tears, or the electric starter or battery fails. (21) For all outboards, it is wise to remove the propeller after several times of use, in order to remove the fishing line that sometimes collects there. This fishing line can cut through the prop seal and cause the lower unit to leak oil and take in water. (a costly repair). (22) Gasoline should be fresh (not more than 6 months old). If you choose to keep it longer, add the correct amount of STABIL. (23) For all trailered boats, (large and small) you should check the transom of your boat for stress cracks (caused by the motor bouncing because of bumps in the road). To prevent such cracks you should get a TRANSOM SAVER which takes the weight off your boat's transom and transfers it to the trailer. (It costs about $75, and can save you thousands). (24) For all outboards, check the lower unit gear oil. It should be dark brown or black in color. Water or coffee-n-cream color in the oil indicates a lower unit seal problem. Smelly/stinky oil is usually OK as long as the color is good. The gear oil should be changed annually. (25) For outboards up to 35hp, if you cannot get the boat to plane, try adjusting the tilt pin. If the boat still rides with its "nose" high in the air, it is probably because you have too much weight in the rear or (you may possibly have the wrong length lower unit). One remedy is to install a "WHALE TAIL" on the cavitation plate of your outboard to cause a greater lift in the rear. (It costs about $50). (26) For all boat trailers, you should get a BEARING BUDDY for each wheel. Its purpose is to keep the whole hub and wheel bearings greased and to prevent any water from entering the bearing zone when you back into the water. Keep it full of grease (with a grease gun). Without BEARING BUDDYS you can expect the bearings to seize-up sometime when you are trailering. You might snap an axle, lose control of your trailer, drop your boat off the trailer onto the road, or worse. BEARING BUDDYS are inexpensive and easy to put on. They can be found at any boat shop or automotive parts place. (27) For outboard engines that are partially submerged in saltwater for 3 months or longer, you can expect the lower unit's aluminum housing to begin disintegrating (dissolving). If you cannot keep the lower unit out of the saltwater, you should attach some zinc anodes to the cavitation plate. They will help save your lower unit. Cost of anodes $5 - $55 at any boat shop. (28) For all do-it-yourselfers, it is best to put grease or NEVER SEIZE on all the bolts that you remove and replace, to prevent rust and salt build-up on those bolts. (29) For all outboards, service your engine regularly. To do so not only prevents problems, but allows you or your mechanic to grease all the bolts that are removed and replaced so that those bolts will come out easily "without breaking" in the future. (30) For electric start outboards, at the first sign of starter trouble, get the starter serviced before you take the boat out fishing. Be happy that it gave you a warning. (31) It would be wise to carry an extra fuel tank "quick connector" fitting that "snaps" into your engine fuel fitting. The "O" ring that they all have sometimes goes bad causing the engine to suck too much air instead of fuel. The engine will then stall or run poorly. Cost about $7 - $20. (32) We sell many large 2 stroke outboards to unfortunate people who relied on their automatic oil feeders known as "VRO". We suggest that you disconnect your VRO and add oil to your gas the old fashioned way. Your engine can become totally ruined within seconds when your VRO fails. Don't take our word for this suggestion. Ask other outboard mechanics for their opinions. . (33) It is suggested that you do not go full throttle on any outboard, because it over-stresses your motor. You should use about 95% of your maximum power. This can be accomplished by putting in a "stop" near the end of your throttle or just remembering to back off a little. This should save gas, wear and tear to your engine, thus making it last longer. (It is similar to driving your car with the gas pedal to the floor) (34) For outboards that use portable gasoline tanks (2-12 gallons), it is wise to use a good plastic or aluminum gas tank. (An aluminum tank is hard to find). The reason for using aluminum or plastic is because they will never rust. A rusty tank will probably clog your gas filter or carburetor when the rust-dust gets there. You should keep the plastic tank away from the direct rays of the sun which will cause it to become brittle and crack. You should replace your plastic gas tank after a few years as needed. (35) For all outboards, never store your outboard motor upside down or it may seize from the water residue that will drain into the powerhead causing the internal parts to rust. It is best to store it vertically. (36) For small outboards (carrying type), it is wise to run your motor out of fuel before you take it off your boat. The reason is to prevent the gas that remains in the carburetor from spilling onto the carpet in your car or trunk when you lie the motor down. (37) For outboards that are bolted to the transom of a fiberglass boat, make sure that MARINE silicone is used to coat the mounting bolts and to fill the mounting bolt holes. Apply the silicone liberally. This will prevent water from getting into the bolt holes and save your transom from rotting. Behind the fiberglass is wood. The wood will rot over time if water gets to it. (38) For all outboards, never run your engine "dry" (without water) or it will seriously damage your impeller within 1 minute. You might not realize this, and the next time you go out boating or fishing your engine may overheat. (39) For all trailerable boats, it is wise to attach a safety chain from the "pulling-eye" at the front of your boat to the area near the winch. If your pulling strap suddenly breaks, the safety chain will stop your boat from coming off the trailer in transit. (40) For all outboards, when you change the gear oil, be certain that when you replace the oil screws, that each of the 2 screws has a plastic (or composition) flat washer to prevent oil from leaking out and water from leaking in. Sometimes the washers get stuck in the "screw well". That is OK. Replace the screws and tighten securely. NOTE: If the flat washer is missing, DO NOT replace with an "O" ring. It will surely fail. (41) For all outboards, it is wise to replace the lower oil drain screw with a magnetic elongated drain screw. It will catch any small loose steel particles that break off within the gearcase, warning you that a problem may be developing there. Approx. cost for a magnetic oil screw $8.00 at any boat shop. (42) For all outboards, when changing gears from NEUTRAL to FORWARD, or from NEUTRAL to REVERSE, first lower your speed to minimum. Do not "ease" the shifter into place. Be decisive! Slowly shifting into forward or reverse will cause the gears to grind and lead to costly repairs. (43) For all sailboats with outboard motors, be certain that your outboard motor does not pick-up out of the water when the sailboat rocks. One remedy is to lower the engine mount (if possible), or get an outboard motor with a longer shaft, or else the impeller may become damaged and fail, causing your outboard to overheat. (44) For 2 stroke outboards, it is wise to add outboard motor oil at the same time that you purchase gas. Waiting until you get home increases the chance that you will forget to add oil. Running your outboard without oil can destroy your engine within 15 seconds (a very costly error). (45) For small 4 stroke engines, when transporting your outboard off the boat or when storing it, it is best to keep it in a vertical position. If you must lie it down, make sure that it lies according to the manufacturer's instructions. Lying it down on the wrong side will cause the engine oil to seep out. Always check the oil level with the dipstick before you start any 4 stroke outboard. If your engine oil level is low, you can add any standard automotive oil. (46) To tell if a boat leaks without taking it to a lake or ocean, use a garden hose to fill the bottom of the boat with water. If the water leaks out of the bottom, the boat surely has a leak and it may show you exactly where to repair it. (47) Be smart: DO NOT LEND YOUR OUTBOARD MOTOR OR MOTORBOAT TO ANYONE. If you do, don't be surprised by the motor problems you will have have when it is returned. (48) For uncovered boats left outside between usages, remove the drain plug so your boat will not fill up with rainwater. Check the drain hole periodically to remove leaves, dirt, etc. Be sure to replace the drain plug before you go boating. (49) For all boats that are trailered, it is unwise to tow even a short distance without one or 2 spare tires. If you get a flat tire and have no spare, you can expect a mostly ruined fishing or boating day. I recommend 2 spare tires because in the event that you use your spare because of a flat tire, you no longer have a spare. NOTE: Many people prevent weathering of their spares by carrying them in their trunk. (50) For all trailer users, it is wise to have a 12 volt tire inflator that plugs into your cigarette lighter or attaches to your car battery. If your trailer tires are low they could possibly blow-out or become flat. A 12 volt tire inflator will take a few minutes to restore the required air pressure etched on the tire by the manufacturer. Cost: $15-$40. (51) It is wise to make a check- list of all the things you will need when you go boating or fishing so you will not forget anything. Write it on thick stiff paper so it will not crumble and can be used repeatedly, and you can add to the list as needed. (52) For all outboards, if your motor runs in neutral but it will not move in forward or reverse, it might have broken shear pin, or a faulty propeller, or a loose shift rod. Do not assume that the gears are bad until you eliminate those 3 items. (53) For all outboards, check all gasoline hoses. Today's gasoline contains alcohol which hardens and /or deteriorates most old hoses. They rot from the inside and cause problems with your carburetor and /or sometimes cause a dangerous gas leak and loss of power. It would be wise to change the hoses annually to prevent problems. The cost of hoses is approx. $2-$10 at any automotive shop. Bring a sample with you. Make sure that the new hoses are alcohol resistant. (54) For all sailboats that are in slips and use outboard motors mounted onto an outside kicker bracket. When mounting or removing your outboard it is wise to maneuver your boat so that the outboard motor is over the floating dock. This can be accomplished by backing up your sailboat so that the motor is not directly above water, but above the walkway. The purpose is to prevent the outboard from falling out of your hands when mounting or dismounting it. Many people have dropped their outboards into the water by trying to mount them while leaning over the stern. (55) For all trailers, make sure that the ball is securely fastened to the coupler before pulling the trailer. Sometimes the coupler "looks" as though it is fastened, but it is not. The trailer may become undone and cause havoc on the road. It only takes a few seconds to carefully check it before you tow. COST: zero, SAVINGS: perhaps a life. (56) For all trailerable boats, always check your trailer lights. The cops are out there with spare tickets anxiously waiting to give them out. It is also safer if all your lights are working. Backing your trailer into a lake or saltwater will often ruin your trailer lights. The cost of repairing the lights is considerably less than the cost of a ticket and a loss of time at the courthouse. P.S. You can also get a ticket if your safety chain is not properly attached. (57) For all outboards it is wise to buy or make any device that will stop or slow down a thief who would like to steal your engine. If it takes a thief more than I minute to remove your engine, he will probably go elsewhere. It is best if everyone made their own device so that the thief will not be able to figure out a system for fast removal. (58) For all outboards, always carry a metal scraper, or stainless steel wool, or at least some emery cloth, or sandpaper. Sometimes your motor will not start because the battery cable terminals are dirty or corroded, or other wire terminals or ground connections may be corroded. The emery cloth or sandpaper may restore a clean connection to wherever it is needed. (59) For all outboards sitting idle for long periods of time, check the wires (not the spark plug wires) by shaking them with your fingers. If the insulation is brittle and crumbles you must replace the wires before starting your engine because they might short-out and cause costly damage to your electrical components. They can also cause a fire under the hood. This happens mostly to old Mercury outboards, but it can happen to any brand. (60) If you made a checklist, add this to it: Swing or crank the trailer jack wheel up and out of the way after attaching your hitch, or it might get damaged or break off when pulling the boat for as little as a few inches. (61) For small outboards (up to 25hp), if you notice that your outboard is not "pissing" water, don't panic. It might be a clogged "pee" hole or a clogged intake. Check if the engine is HOT. If it IS HOT shut it down immediately. If it is NOT HOT, push a wire (the thickness of a paper clip) into the "pee" hole. This might open the clogged passage. Also check the intake screen (at the bottom of the engine near the propeller) for debris. (62) For all outboards, if you remove your propeller (for any reason), before you put it back on, it is wise to grease the propeller shaft to prevent the propeller from "freezing" to the propeller shaft (because of salt and/or rust). If the propeller is already " frozen" and it will not come off (after you tried tapping it with a hammer and cussing), you may have to cut it off with an electric hand grinder or something similar. Sometimes a propane torch will burn out the rubber insert that holds the propeller together. Neither method is pleasant. A little grease now can save you a lot of time and money in the future. NOTE: Do not hit the propeller hard with a hammer or you might bend the propeller shaft which will cause costly internal lower unit damage when you go boating. (63) For all boat owners, it is advisable to purchase liability insurance for your vessel because you are responsible for any damage or injury that is caused by your boat or its wake. (64) For most gas tanks (metal and plastic), do not fill to the top with gas. Give the gasoline room to expand during hot weather, or the pressure inside the tank may cause the gas to overflow, the tank to rupture, distort, or generate small cracks at its top etc. Sometimes the cracks may not be visible, but during the rainy season (unknown to you) water may seep into the tank through those cracks. You will not be able to start your engine if there is water in the gas. (65) For all saltwater fishermen, it is wise to carry a thermos of HOT water or coffee in case you catch a sculpin and get stuck by its poisonous fins. Pouring HOT water on the injury will immediately neutralize the poison. Using cold water to stop the pain will make it worse. Ask your medical doctor. (66) For all outboard motors, if your motor runs great with the hood off, but runs terrible with the hood on, you may have an exhaust leak that is fouling your carburetor. Consult your mechanic for a remedy. (67) For all outboards, if you hear electrical arcing, pulsating or buzzing noises when it is running, you may have an electrical problem. A good way to investigate the problem is to run the outboard at night where it is dark and look below the hood. If you see sparks, clean and tighten the connections or change the part that is sparking as soon as possible because the sparks can start a fire. (68) For all boat trailers, if you notice that your boat is sagging to one side, the trailer may have a broken leaf in its set of springs. If so, get it fixed promptly before another leaf breaks because of the added stress. (69) For all outboards, check the water intake near the bottom of your motor for a broken or "plugged-up" screen. Clean or replace if broken. (70) For all boat, car, and truck owners, if you have a build-up of acid corrosion on your battery post, pour very hot water onto it. The corrosion will immediately vanish. (71) For outboards over 10 years old that have foam-rubber glued to the inside of the hood by the manufacturer, be sure to REMOVE ALL OF IT by any means because the foam will flake-off and plug up your carburetor. DO IT NOW!!! Also remove any dust, or leaves because your carburetor will suck any loose material into it like a vacuum cleaner. (72) For all outboards, it is wise to start and run your outboard at home for 10 minutes before you go out boating or fishing. Sometimes your motor will not start. You do not want to have trouble starting at the lake or ocean. It is best to deal with the problem on land. Be sure not to start it without water. (73) For all boat trailers, you will need a jack and a lug-wrench that fits your trailer's lug nuts. If they are rusty you may need a length of steel pipe to give you more leverage with the lug wrench. (It also helps to spray W-40 on everything during removal). (74) It is wise to often check the tire pressure in your spare tire because it may be very low. It can lose air, by just "sitting". (75) To determine if your (questionable) boat battery is good, it will need a "load test". For an accurate reading, you should charge-up your battery for about 2-3 hrs. A load test takes about 10 seconds. Most auto parts shops will load test your battery for free. (76) For all outboards, many of them take about 1-2 minutes to warm up. In that time your motor may stall, misfire, run-rough, etc. It may need more choke or less choke depending on how much gas is in the carburetor or carburetors (if you have more than one). Be sure that the "pump-up ball" is hard and the carburetor(s) is full of gas. (77) For all boaters, you can expect that at some time in the future your outboard motor will not start or re-start while you are out fishing. If you can afford it, it is wise to carry an auxiliary motor, or mount one on the stern. It should be between 4 hp and 25 hp depending on the size of your boat. It can also be used to save gas when you are slow-trolling for fish. (78) For all 2 stroke outboards, if you notice oil "leaking" near the foot of the motor, it is NORMAL because all the oil in the gas that went into the engine for lubrication must either "burn" or drip-out after the motor is shut down. It is wise to use an oil drip pan under the lower unit to prevent a stain on your driveway or elsewhere. (79) For users of small boats that use outboards, to avoid painful blisters bring along a pair of leather gloves along with oars in case your motor won't start and you have to row. NOTE: Most boaters are aware of the above suggestions, but not everyone. I hope that I may have saved someone the inconvenience of having a bad day on the water. If I think of any more tips, I will add them to the list. Perhaps you should make a copy of the tips as a reminder.