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Boats For Sale In Clinton Boats for sale
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1989 carver yacht santego 270 27ft boat super clean twin merc make offer !!!!!!
$14,990
East Peoria, Illinois
Category -
Length 27.0
Posted Over 1 Month
1989 Carver Santego Yacht 270 - FOR SALE - Illinois USA FOR SALE - 1989 CARVER YACHTS 270 SANTEGO Slipped @ Eastport Yacht Club, East Peoria IL Boat is exceptionally clean. Maintained with an open checkbook. Stored Indoors each winter. Lake Michigan Yacht. Meticulously maintained. Runs great. Ready to go. Features Forward and Aft Side Thrusters to make docking in the wind a fearless experience. Also features 320 lbs of forward or reverse thrust for up to 1 hour 15 minutes, all electric. Run out of gas? Who cares, you can propel the boat on battery power. This is the only boat in the harbor that can hold it’s position in the wind at any angle thanks to these variable speed, reversible thrusters. SEE pictures in gallery's at bottom of this page. 6.5 foot high ceiling mid cabin Solid Teak Interior Electric hot water heater Hot water from engines when not at slip Shower Bathroom with auxiliary holding tank Kitchen with Gas and Electric Stove Refrigerator with Ice Maker Sink with pressurized hot and cold running water. AM/FM Stereo with 4 speakers, 2 inside, 2 on bridge. Air Conditioning Solar Blocking Tinted Glass Halon Fire Extinguishing System Dual Fuel Tanks Sleeps 6 Sonar Garmin Navigation Marine Radio with NOAA weather Dual Antennas Spotlight Gas Grill 40 gal water tank Bow and Stern Thrusters for docking Electric Propulsion over 1 hour per charge. Cable TV jack Bridge Enclosure for foul weather Standard Nautical Grade Compass Full Canvas Cover Dual 4.3LXV6 / Alpha One stern drives All accessories included Has dual opposing front hatches with solar glass. Large enough to crawl through for easy access to the deck from inside. Hatches catch wind from either direction to keep interior cool. Boat also has air conditioning that does not use water so no one knows when it is on. Included umbrella on the rear just sits inside the removable BBQ grill post. New gas BBQ grill is included. Cable jack is professionally installed in the smoked glass side windows so no unsightly cable wires to try and feed through hatches or doors. Black Solar Blocking Glass. Dual Fuel Tanks, 40 gal water tank, Water, Electric hookup all located on the rear. Cable TV jack located on the port side window. Since this is an ebay add, it needs to be understood that due to the age of the boat and the mere fact that it is a boat, it is being sold as is with no warranty expressed or implied. It is currently in the good hands of our local Clinton Marine at Peoria's most prestigious harbor and can be launched by their giant fork lifts in literally less than 30 minutes from the time you decide to put it in the water. They can of course do a spring start up, which on this boat only entails charging the batteries and making sure the plug is in and everything starts up fine. They can also slip the boat for you with you choice of multiple docks. Over twice the asking price has been put into the maintenance and upgrades this boat has. If you're at all mechanically inclined you'll get off pretty hard on the things that have been done to the boat not to mention probably enjoy the fact that it's so clean mechanically that you can lick it in places where the sun don't shine. LARGER PICTURE GALLERIES can be found at: decware dot com / boat EXTERIOR PICTURE GALLERY INTERIOR PICTURE GALLERY
1960 Chris-Craft Constellation-Great Condition
$169,900
New Port Richey, Florida
Category -
Length -
Posted Over 1 Month
In 1970 the original 430 Lincoln motors were replaced with 427 Ford motors. In 1999 the aft deck enclosure was changed to an EZ2CY system in sliding tracks as well as the bottom being sanded smooth and the application of VC-17 paint for improved fuel economy. Clair Shores. Other features include halon fire suppression Bennett trim tabs and a water maker. In 1999 with the new enclosure chromed rail stations and fresh paint on the hull the vessel was judged and awarded Best in its Class award at the Blue Water International Boat Festival. A buyer should instruct his agents or his surveyors to investigate such details as the buyer desires validated. This is not a restoration she has had owners who have cared for her. Throughout the years numerous upgrades and maintenance projects including painting chrome bright work accessories and interior decoration have been completed whenever needed. Boats Motor Yachts 8536 PSN . Clemens MI area who used the boat to vacation with his family in northern Lake Huron Lake Superior and on Lake St. A port side companionway leads below. In 2009 the propellers were replaced. Clair and Erie and often for charitable boat outings and in parades. She has everything you need to get you where you want to go and back home safely. Today the vessel s uniqueness and condition turns heads wherever she is. On deck we start with a teak foredeck with stainless steel bow rail wide teak side decks and wing doors to aft deck. This vessel is offered subject to prior sale price change or withdrawal without notice. These motors provided more horse power than the original motors with replacement parts more readily available. the forward stateroom has upper and lower bunks. In 1997 the motors were changed to the current set of 454 Crusaders with Borg Warner transmissions. Forward and down is a full galley with wraparound cabinets full size refrigerator built-in microwave oven and three-burner range with oven. the vessel was used for vacationing in Lakes Huron St. In 1993 the vessel ownership was transferred to the third owner s son a USCG Master Captain 100 Ton and Licensed Professional Engineer who continues to operate the boat today.In 1995 the navigation electronics were updated to the most up to date equipment at the time including GPS Loran Chart Plotter Auto Pilot and Radar all linked together via SeaTalk. the vessel was occasionally used as a press boat for the Port Huron to Mackinaw sailboat race and various other events. A convertible dinette is to starboard and seats four or sleeps two. Call now and make an appointment to see for yourself what classic boating is all about. Motivated seller says bring offers! Dimensions Displacement: 38000 Engines Total Power: 320 Tanks Fuel: 410 Fresh Water: 200 Holding: 60 Accommodations Large windows warm wood tones and beige carpet provide a bright and airy interior. Forward is a centerline helm with original gauges Auto Helm tridata depth sounder Raytheon GPS Loran chart plotter radar and VHF radio & hailer. the second owner purchased the vessel in 1965. the first owner was an automotive dealer in the Detroit area and moored the vessel in St. Sweeping bow teak decks wood hull covered helm spacious aft deck and traditional salon make her stand out in any marina. Throughout this vessel s history it has been enjoyed by hundreds of passengers whether it was for an afternoon or on a week s voyage. Three Marine Air reverse cycle HAC units maintain interior comfort and an Onan 10kW generator provides offshore electrical power. the vessel was sold in 1978 to its current owner s family. This greatly increased the usability of the boat. There are three staterooms. the third owner of the vessel was a businessman in the steel fabrication business from the Mt. Twin 1996 Crusader 454XL Engines MSTS Ignition 5000 Series Velvet Drive Trans Four-Blade 24x20 Propellers Bennett Trim Tabs Halon Fire Suppression Onan 14kW Generator Four 30-amp Shore Powers Connections 60-amp Electrical Panel 20-gallon Water Heater Three Marine Air HAC Units Water Maker History This vessel was manufactured in Algonac Michigan purchased new in 1960 and delivered in Detroit by the Gregory Boat Company. Clair. There is a forward head compartment serving both staterooms. the vessel is not a restoration project; rather it has always been cared for in a meticulous manner. the master aft cabin has two full berths. the open salon has large windows beige carpet and warm wood tones providing a comfortable and relaxing living area. When not in use the vessel was summer stored in a covered boat well on the Clinton River in Harrison Township MI and winter stored out of the water in the same boat well. the aft deck has EZ2CY enclosure three bentwood loveseats coffee table and wet bar with refrigerator ice maker and liquor storage. In 1978 the hard top of the vessel was extended. the boat was named Tamba. Forward Guest Stateroom with Upper and Lower Bunks Forward Guest Head Mid-Cabin Stateroom with Offset Upper and Lower Berths Full Galley with Convertible Dinette Open Salon with Sleeper Sofa Twin Easy Chairs Entertainment Center and Refrigerated Wine Storage Master Aft Cabin with Two Full Size Berths and Private Head with Shower Galley Dinette seats four and sleeps two. In 2000 the vessel was awarded the Popular Choice award at the Wallaceburg Antique Motor and Boat Outing. It is important to note that this vessel has never left the fresh water of the Great Lakes and is in the condition that is today due to the its continued care and maintenance and indoor storage. U-Shaped Galley Solid Surface Counter Top Stainless Steel Double Sink Full Size Refrigerator/Freezer Three-Burner Range with Oven Built-in Microwave Oven Bridge Deck Enclosed Centerline Helm Station Aft Deck Lounge with EZ2CY Enclosure Comfortable Seating with Three Bentwood Love Seats and Large Coffee Table Wet Bar with Ice Make and Refrigerator Provide Refreshment Wing Doors to Side Decks Steps Aft to Swim Platform Electronics & Navigation Raytheon 398 GPS & Loran Raytheon 601 Chart Plotter Raytheon R40 Radar Raytheon 202 VHF Radio Raytheon 650 Auto Pilot Danforth Compass Original Gauges Deck & Hull Teak Deck Stainless Steel Bow Rail Fender Racks Teak Deck Lockers with Cushioned Seats Swim Platform Mechanical & Electrical Recent surveys available. the boat is still summer and winter stored in the same Clinton River Boat House as it has been since 1978 keeping it in its pristine condition. Whether you are planning a day on water or a weekend getaway this 50' Constellation is ready to accommodate with three staterooms. Clemens MI area who renamed the boat Arrivederci. the vessel proved to be very convenient while anchoring off shore for long periods of time with its 32 volt systems large water and holding tanks and 10 kilowatt generator. the center stateroom has offset upper and lower berths. This beautiful 50' motor yacht is exceptionally well maintained and ready to cruise. the current owner has used the vessel for vacationing and entertaining with his family and friends in Lakes Huron St. There are two easy chairs a sleeper sofa with coffee table entertainment center and even refrigerated wine storage. Clair and Erie. the aft head compartment has large shower stall. Disclaimer the Company offers the details of this vessel in good faith but cannot guarantee or warrant the accuracy of this information nor warrant the condition of the vessel. When not in use the vessel was summer and winter stored in a covered boat well on the Clinton River in Harrison Township MI. This Chris-Craft was re-fitted in 1996 with twin Crusader 454XL engines and is equipped with Groco oil change system Velvet Drive transmission and new four-blade propellers. He was a business man in the flower bulb business from Mt. 1960 Chris-Craft Constellation-Great Condition Location: Harrison Township MI US (LOCATION: Harrison Township MI) This 50' Chris-Craft Constellation is a fresh water time machine with classic features and drop-dead good looks...
32' Marinette Sedan Bridge TWO OWNERS, 650 hrs! All NEW, totally updated
$26,900
Aurora, Ohio
Year -
Make -
Model -
Category -
Length -
Posted Over 1 Month
Item Description 32' Marinette Sedan Bridge TWO OWNERS, 506 hrs! All NEW, totally updated! One of the cleanest Marinette's anywhere! Two owners since 1987 with only 650+ original hours. This boat is always been professionally maintained by the dealer (former Marinette dealer) and is in pristine condition. All interior and exterior upholstery is custom and less than one-year-old. Carpeting is brand-new and installed this year. New granite counter tops throughout the boat including dinette table. Many electronic upgrades include Garmin GPS and Hummingbird fish finder are 12 months old and all navigational and anchor lights updated this year to LED. New exterior anti-slip paint and anti-following paint are only three months old. Both engines were given complete tuneups including spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and complete oil changes in the spring of 2014. I will gladly answer any questions and show qualified buyers the boat in person. Please use the eBay contact seller link to contact me via email. PLEASE NOTE: this boat is currently listed for sale and professionally shown by Happy Days Boating in Port Clinton Ohio. The person to contact regarding this specific boat is Kevin, his telephone number is 419-732-2116. He will be glad to answer all of your questions and schedule inspections and or sea trials. * Out of state buyers: we have had an overwhelming number of inquiries regarding shipping or potential waterways into other states. The captain services as well as shipping companies I have consulted with have unanimously agreed that a boat this size should be shipped via truck if it's not being purchased in the Great Lakes. Due to the fact that this boat is made 100% of aluminum its overall weight is just under 10,000 pounds so any commercial truck driving company can move it. eBay has excellent relationship(s) with the best shipping companies for boats. If you are an out-of-state buyer and we are able to negotiate a deal, it will include shipping. We personally oversee the transport to the lift well and the loading on the tractor-trailer. Click the link "get shipping quote" underneath the make offer button and just make sure you tell them that this is a flybridge. Some companies want it taken off others will ship with it attached (low boy). Please e-mail me with any specific questions. Must see always fresh water Marinette Flybridge with complete interior and exterior upgrades. Twin 318 Chrysler V8 inboards with 650+ original hours. Davit with power windlass Flybridge Cover. Bimini Top. Bow seat. Dual Wipers Lower Helm Station with: Uniden VHF Radio Ritchie Compass Ray Jeff Depth Finder Fume Alert Compass Flybridge equipped with: Garmin Color Map GPS Plotter Compass Hummingbird Fish Sonar Ensign Digital Tachometer Sony AM/FM/CD with Speakers Camper Back Stern Rails Shore Power AC with Reverse Cycle Heat Interior: New Carpeting New Upholstry New Granite Counter Tops Galley with Norcold AC/DC Fridge Sink Sharp Microwave Head with Flush toilet Sink Shower Swim Platform with Boarding Ladder Sliding Aft Doors with Intregal Screen Dimensions LOA: 32 ft 0 in Beam: 12 ft 0 in Maximum Draft: 2 ft 0 in Bridge Clearance: 9 ft 2 in Dry Weight: 10500 lbs Engines Engine Brand: Chrysler Engine(s) Total Power: 480 HP Engine Model: 318 Engine Type: Inboard Cruising Speed: 22 knots Maximum Speed: 30 knots Year Built: 1987 Engine Hours: 506 Tanks Fresh Water Tanks: (35 Gallons) Fuel Tanks: (150 Gallons)
1979 Sea Ray Weekender
$10,900
Clinton, Connecticut
Year -
Make -
Model -
Category -
Length -
Posted Over 1 Month
1979 Sea Ray Weekender This 30 ft 1979 SeaRay 300 Weekender with two new 454 Mercruisers and a custom Arrigoni radar arch is for sale in Clinton CT. The 300 Weekender is part sport boat and part family cruiser which sleeps four below and in a pinch 2 more on deck in the convertible helm and companion seats. This is a classic example of a hybrid boat that is terrific for cruising the beaches on a fine day, or as SeaRay calls it, a weekender. SeaRay built their name for quality and functionality in the 70’s and 80’s and this 300 Weekender is a prime example of how and why the SeaRay name became associated with quality and value. One of the more popular designs, this boat was part of the evolution from the clunky square cabin cruisers to the sleek sport boats we see today. The engines are forward under the deck giving an extremely large and functional single level cockpit straight through to the companionway. The convertible top has been raised for additional head room, and topped off with a very sleek Arrigoni custom radar arch. The seating consoles fold down for additional bunks or on deck lounges and are moveable for easy engine access. Below there is the fully enclosed head with a sink and shower. To port is the functional galley with a sink, refrigerator, and combination alcohol electric cook top. Opposite to starboard is a dinette with a custom teak folding table surrounded by dinette seating. Forward is the customary double berth with privacy partitions. Both engines have been replaced with Mercruiser 454 V6 carbureted engines with literally less than 10 hours since installation. This SeaRay Weekender has all of the standard features we appreciate today, self bailing cockpit, double helmsman seats, double companion seats, welded anodized aluminum vented windshields, convertible dinette, and convertible top. Here is an opportunity to buy into the old style quality sport boat with new power for ease of mind. Wings is in great shape for a boat from the 70’s and will give another 40 years of good service to the new owner.
Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619
$1
El Cajon, California
Year -
Make -
Model -
Category -
Length -
Posted Over 1 Month
We buy, sell, trade, tune-up, and repair all brands, years, sizes and lengths of outboard motors including: Johnson, Evinrude, Mercury, Sears, Wards, Mariner, British Seagull, SeaKing, Clinton, Elgin, Eska, Aero Marine, Gamefisher, Cruise'n Carry, Force, Ted Williams, and numerous others in addition to: Honda, Nissan, Suzuki, Tanaka, Tohatsu, Yamaha, etc. We also carry used propellers for most of the above brands (it is best to bring your old propeller or outboard with you for a perfect fit). We have some lower units, power tilt and trim units, various used electric starters and small electric trolling motors for sale (great for kids on a small boat on a lake). Turn-around time, for carry-in repairs is about 5 business days or less.(depending on parts availability). A larger motor attached to your boat usually takes 1 to 2 days. We also rebuild electric and pull-starters for all motors and we have a huge selection of used outboard motors for sale ranging from 1hp to 250hp. All our motors have been serviced and ready to go. We do remove and install large outboard motors of all sizes. Call Marty at 619 - 972 - 9998 to discuss your motor. If no answer, please leave a message and I will get back to you as soon as possible. Please repeat your phone number twice because sometimes it is not clear. Often we can help you fix your problem on the phone at no cost. (Please no E-mails or texts). When you bring it in, we will give your outboard motor a compression and spark test, diagnose your engine, and tell you what it needs in repairs to get it back in good running condition. We will repair your motor at your request, answer your questions and make suggestions. Most of our business is by recommendation of satisfied customers. We will do everything possible to make you one. If we do not have the size or brand of outboard that you are looking for, ask us to put your name on our list and we will call you if and when such an outboard arrives. ------------------------------------- USEFUL TIPS & INFORMATION: ------------------------------ (1) All 2 stroke outboard engines made after 1963 require a 50:1 mixture (3 ounces of 2 stroke outboard motor oil per gallon of gas). The actual amount is 2.6 ounces per gallon (a little extra won't hurt, but less can cause severe damage to your engine). NOTE: NEVER use 100:1 as recommended by some manufacturers. It will cause your engine to lose compression and die prematurely. The only lubrication that your engine gets is from the oil that is mixed with the gas, therefore use 50:1 to be safe. (2) Older outboards (pre 1963) require double the amount of oil 25:1 mixture (6 ounces per gallon), some require a 16:1 mixture (8 ounces per gallon), and BRITISH SEAGULL engines require a 10:1 mixture (13 ounces per gallon). (3) 4 stroke outboards do not need oil mixed with the gas. Make sure the crankcase is full of oil (check the dipstick). If by mistake you ran your 4 stroke with oil mixed with gas do not be concerned. It's OK. (4) Always carry a minimum amount of tools like screwdrivers (blade and Phillips head), socket set including a spark plug socket, combination wrenches, vice grips, pliers, fire extinguisher, drift or punch to drive out a broken shear pin, a can of WD - 40, and a spray can of carburetor cleaner for starting emergencies, and a few extra new spark plugs (pre-gapped) in case yours become fouled, a new gas filter if your gas line has one, a tire pressure gauge, a long magnet and (extra-long) forceps (in case you drop a nut or a bolt), and a small flashlight. AVOID USING STARTER FLUID because it contains ether (bad for outboards). Also carry a pair of extra shear pins and cotter pins (for most outboards less than 35hp). And also a few small hose clamps to tighten a loose or leaking fuel line (see tip #53 below). (5) For small outboards under 40hp, keep the clamp handle screws greased so they will not freeze up from oxidation or salt. (6) For all outboards that have remote steering, grease the steering cable often if you go out in salt water to prevent the cable from "seizing up" and causing a costly repair. (7) For all outboards, starting it several times a year keeps everything "limber". (8) For all outboards, flushing your outboard in fresh water for 5 minutes after each saltwater use will prevent costly cooling system repairs. NOTE: Do not flush your motor in saltwater. Use a barrel, or a garden hose hooked up to outboard "earmuffs" or any other device made for your motor. (9) If you carry your small outboard motor in the bed of a pick-up truck, always tie it down securely or it might break the tiller or shift handle by rolling. (10) For all outboards, check your propeller for broken blades or chunks missing from any blade. Operating any outboard with uneven prop blades will cause vibration and damage to seals and other internal parts of the lower unit. Also it is best to carry a spare prop. (Approx. cost $50 for a used one) . (11) Spray a thin coat of WD 40 all around the powerhead of your outboard. It will not make your engine run better, but it will protect it from rust and salt deposits. (12) For pull start outboards, check the entire pull cord for signs of wear. You wouldn't want to break a pull cord when you are out fishing. (13) For electric start outboards, always carry 2 fully charged batteries in case one battery loses its charge. (14) For small (tiller steering) outboards up to 35hp, attach a short chain, cable or heavy rope (one end attached to your outboard's clamp section, and the other end attached to the transom of your boat) as a safety to prevent your motor from falling overboard. (15) For all outboards, in the event that you remove the top cowling to check your engine, put the cowling down away from the edge of the boat since any wave might send the cowling to the bottom of the ocean or lake. It will be difficult to locate a replacement. (16) For all outboards, most engine failure is a result of overheating. Always check the temp. gauge (if you have one) or by watching the "pisser". If you see steam coming out, shut the engine to avoid costly damage. Check the bottom of the lower unit to see if you picked up some vegetation, or a plastic bag which may be blocking your water intake. If you do not find anything, you may have a bad impeller or a bad water-pump housing. The best thing to do is, try (if possible) to get towed back by any good natured person in the area, or call "VESSEL ASSIST". If you do not have "Vessel Assist Insurance", it will be quite costly. To avoid all of the above, it is best to change your impeller every 2 years or sooner. Whether you use your outboard frequently, occasionally, or just once in 2 years, it is time more than wear that ruins the impeller. (17) If you own a boat (any kind), always remember to replace the drain plug in the stern (rear) before you go out, or the boat will slowly fill with water. This event happens to everyone at some time. It is best to make a check list and review it before you launch. (Also keep a spare drain plug near the drain-hole in your boat in case the original one gets "lost"). (18) For portable outboards, it is best (if possible) to mount the motor on land before you launch in the ocean, because any wave can cause you to drop your motor while you are mounting it. (19) For outboards with an integral gas tank (one that is built-in to your engine), always carry extra fuel and a FUNNEL, or much of the extra gas will be lost when pouring to re-fill your integral tank. (20) For pull-start outboards and some bigger electric starting engines, you should have a separate emergency starter rope with a handle in case your starter spring fails, or the rope tears, or the electric starter or battery fails. (21) For all outboards, it is wise to remove the propeller after several times of use, in order to remove the fishing line that sometimes collects there. This fishing line can cut through the prop seal and cause the lower unit to leak oil and take in water. (a costly repair). (22) Gasoline should be fresh (not more than 6 months old). If you choose to keep it longer, add the correct amount of STABIL. (23) For all trailered boats, (large and small) you should check the transom of your boat for stress cracks (caused by the motor bouncing because of bumps in the road). To prevent such cracks you should get a TRANSOM SAVER which takes the weight off your boat's transom and transfers it to the trailer. (It costs about $75, and can save you thousands). (24) For all outboards, check the lower unit gear oil. It should be dark brown or black in color. Water or coffee-n-cream color in the oil indicates a lower unit seal problem. Smelly/stinky oil is usually OK as long as the color is good. The gear oil should be changed annually. (25) For outboards up to 35hp, if you cannot get the boat to plane, try adjusting the tilt pin. If the boat still rides with its "nose" high in the air, it is probably because you have too much weight in the rear or (you may possibly have the wrong length lower unit). One remedy is to install a "WHALE TAIL" on the cavitation plate of your outboard to cause a greater lift in the rear. (It costs about $50). (26) For all boat trailers, you should get a BEARING BUDDY for each wheel. Its purpose is to keep the whole hub and wheel bearings greased and to prevent any water from entering the bearing zone when you back into the water. Keep it full of grease (with a grease gun). Without BEARING BUDDYS you can expect the bearings to seize-up sometime when you are trailering. You might snap an axle, lose control of your trailer, drop your boat off the trailer onto the road, or worse. BEARING BUDDYS are inexpensive and easy to put on. They can be found at any boat shop or automotive parts place. (27) For outboard engines that are partially submerged in saltwater for 3 months or longer, you can expect the lower unit's aluminum housing to begin disintegrating (dissolving). If you cannot keep the lower unit out of the saltwater, you should attach some zinc anodes to the cavitation plate. They will help save your lower unit. Cost of anodes $5 - $55 at any boat shop. (28) For all do-it-yourselfers, it is best to put grease or NEVER SEIZE on all the bolts that you remove and replace, to prevent rust and salt build-up on those bolts. (29) For all outboards, service your engine regularly. To do so not only prevents problems, but allows you or your mechanic to grease all the bolts that are removed and replaced so that those bolts will come out easily "without breaking" in the future. (30) For electric start outboards, at the first sign of starter trouble, get the starter serviced before you take the boat out fishing. Be happy that it gave you a warning. (31) It would be wise to carry an extra fuel tank "quick connector" fitting that "snaps" into your engine fuel fitting. The "O" ring that they all have sometimes goes bad causing the engine to suck too much air instead of fuel. The engine will then stall or run poorly. Cost about $7 - $20. (32) We sell many large 2 stroke outboards to unfortunate people who relied on their automatic oil feeders known as "VRO". We suggest that you disconnect your VRO and add oil to your gas the old fashioned way. Your engine can become totally ruined within seconds when your VRO fails. Don't take our word for this suggestion. Ask other outboard mechanics for their opinions. . (33) It is suggested that you do not go full throttle on any outboard, because it over-stresses your motor. You should use about 95% of your maximum power. This can be accomplished by putting in a "stop" near the end of your throttle or just remembering to back off a little. This should save gas, wear and tear to your engine, thus making it last longer. (It is similar to driving your car with the gas pedal to the floor) (34) For outboards that use portable gasoline tanks (2-12 gallons), it is wise to use a good plastic or aluminum gas tank. (An aluminum tank is hard to find). The reason for using aluminum or plastic is because they will never rust. A rusty tank will probably clog your gas filter or carburetor when the rust-dust gets there. You should keep the plastic tank away from the direct rays of the sun which will cause it to become brittle and crack. You should replace your plastic gas tank after a few years as needed. (35) For all outboards, never store your outboard motor upside down or it may seize from the water residue that will drain into the powerhead causing the internal parts to rust. It is best to store it vertically. (36) For small outboards (carrying type), it is wise to run your motor out of fuel before you take it off your boat. The reason is to prevent the gas that remains in the carburetor from spilling onto the carpet in your car or trunk when you lie the motor down. (37) For outboards that are bolted to the transom of a fiberglass boat, make sure that MARINE silicone is used to coat the mounting bolts and to fill the mounting bolt holes. Apply the silicone liberally. This will prevent water from getting into the bolt holes and save your transom from rotting. Behind the fiberglass is wood. The wood will rot over time if water gets to it. (38) For all outboards, never run your engine "dry" (without water) or it will seriously damage your impeller within 1 minute. You might not realize this, and the next time you go out boating or fishing your engine may overheat. (39) For all trailerable boats, it is wise to attach a safety chain from the "pulling-eye" at the front of your boat to the area near the winch. If your pulling strap suddenly breaks, the safety chain will stop your boat from coming off the trailer in transit. (40) For all outboards, when you change the gear oil, be certain that when you replace the oil screws, that each of the 2 screws has a plastic (or composition) flat washer to prevent oil from leaking out and water from leaking in. Sometimes the washers get stuck in the "screw well". That is OK. Replace the screws and tighten securely. NOTE: If the flat washer is missing, DO NOT replace with an "O" ring. It will surely fail. (41) For all outboards, it is wise to replace the lower oil drain screw with a magnetic elongated drain screw. It will catch any small loose steel particles that break off within the gearcase, warning you that a problem may be developing there. Approx. cost for a magnetic oil screw $8.00 at any boat shop. (42) For all outboards, when changing gears from NEUTRAL to FORWARD, or from NEUTRAL to REVERSE, first lower your speed to minimum. Do not "ease" the shifter into place. Be decisive! Slowly shifting into forward or reverse will cause the gears to grind and lead to costly repairs. (43) For all sailboats with outboard motors, be certain that your outboard motor does not pick-up out of the water when the sailboat rocks. One remedy is to lower the engine mount (if possible), or get an outboard motor with a longer shaft, or else the impeller may become damaged and fail, causing your outboard to overheat. (44) For 2 stroke outboards, it is wise to add outboard motor oil at the same time that you purchase gas. Waiting until you get home increases the chance that you will forget to add oil. Running your outboard without oil can destroy your engine within 15 seconds (a very costly error). (45) For small 4 stroke engines, when transporting your outboard off the boat or when storing it, it is best to keep it in a vertical position. If you must lie it down, make sure that it lies according to the manufacturer's instructions. Lying it down on the wrong side will cause the engine oil to seep out. Always check the oil level with the dipstick before you start any 4 stroke outboard. If your engine oil level is low, you can add any standard automotive oil. (46) To tell if a boat leaks without taking it to a lake or ocean, use a garden hose to fill the bottom of the boat with water. If the water leaks out of the bottom, the boat surely has a leak and it may show you exactly where to repair it. (47) Be smart: DO NOT LEND YOUR OUTBOARD MOTOR OR MOTORBOAT TO ANYONE. If you do, don't be surprised by the motor problems you will have have when it is returned. (48) For uncovered boats left outside between usages, remove the drain plug so your boat will not fill up with rainwater. Check the drain hole periodically to remove leaves, dirt, etc. Be sure to replace the drain plug before you go boating. (49) For all boats that are trailered, it is unwise to tow even a short distance without one or 2 spare tires. If you get a flat tire and have no spare, you can expect a mostly ruined fishing or boating day. I recommend 2 spare tires because in the event that you use your spare because of a flat tire, you no longer have a spare. NOTE: Many people prevent weathering of their spares by carrying them in their trunk. (50) For all trailer users, it is wise to have a 12 volt tire inflator that plugs into your cigarette lighter or attaches to your car battery. If your trailer tires are low they could possibly blow-out or become flat. A 12 volt tire inflator will take a few minutes to restore the required air pressure etched on the tire by the manufacturer. Cost: $15-$40. (51) It is wise to make a check- list of all the things you will need when you go boating or fishing so you will not forget anything. Write it on thick stiff paper so it will not crumble and can be used repeatedly, and you can add to the list as needed. (52) For all outboards, if your motor runs in neutral but it will not move in forward or reverse, it might have broken shear pin, or a faulty propeller, or a loose shift rod. Do not assume that the gears are bad until you eliminate those 3 items. (53) For all outboards, check all gasoline hoses. Today's gasoline contains alcohol which hardens and /or deteriorates most old hoses. They rot from the inside and cause problems with your carburetor and /or sometimes cause a dangerous gas leak and loss of power. It would be wise to change the hoses annually to prevent problems. The cost of hoses is approx. $2-$10 at any automotive shop. Bring a sample with you. Make sure that the new hoses are alcohol resistant. (54) For all sailboats that are in slips and use outboard motors mounted onto an outside kicker bracket. When mounting or removing your outboard it is wise to maneuver your boat so that the outboard motor is over the floating dock. This can be accomplished by backing up your sailboat so that the motor is not directly above water, but above the walkway. The purpose is to prevent the outboard from falling out of your hands when mounting or dismounting it. Many people have dropped their outboards into the water by trying to mount them while leaning over the stern. (55) For all trailers, make sure that the ball is securely fastened to the coupler before pulling the trailer. Sometimes the coupler "looks" as though it is fastened, but it is not. The trailer may become undone and cause havoc on the road. It only takes a few seconds to carefully check it before you tow. COST: zero, SAVINGS: perhaps a life. (56) For all trailerable boats, always check your trailer lights. The cops are out there with spare tickets anxiously waiting to give them out. It is also safer if all your lights are working. Backing your trailer into a lake or saltwater will often ruin your trailer lights. The cost of repairing the lights is considerably less than the cost of a ticket and a loss of time at the courthouse. P.S. You can also get a ticket if your safety chain is not properly attached. (57) For all outboards it is wise to buy or make any device that will stop or slow down a thief who would like to steal your engine. If it takes a thief more than I minute to remove your engine, he will probably go elsewhere. It is best if everyone made their own device so that the thief will not be able to figure out a system for fast removal. (58) For all outboards, always carry a metal scraper, or stainless steel wool, or at least some emery cloth, or sandpaper. Sometimes your motor will not start because the battery cable terminals are dirty or corroded, or other wire terminals or ground connections may be corroded. The emery cloth or sandpaper may restore a clean connection to wherever it is needed. (59) For all outboards sitting idle for long periods of time, check the wires (not the spark plug wires) by shaking them with your fingers. If the insulation is brittle and crumbles you must replace the wires before starting your engine because they might short-out and cause costly damage to your electrical components. They can also cause a fire under the hood. This happens mostly to old Mercury outboards, but it can happen to any brand. (60) If you made a checklist, add this to it: Swing or crank the trailer jack wheel up and out of the way after attaching your hitch, or it might get damaged or break off when pulling the boat for as little as a few inches. (61) For small outboards (up to 25hp), if you notice that your outboard is not "pissing" water, don't panic. It might be a clogged "pee" hole or a clogged intake. Check if the engine is HOT. If it IS HOT shut it down immediately. If it is NOT HOT, push a wire (the thickness of a paper clip) into the "pee" hole. This might open the clogged passage. Also check the intake screen (at the bottom of the engine near the propeller) for debris. (62) For all outboards, if you remove your propeller (for any reason), before you put it back on, it is wise to grease the propeller shaft to prevent the propeller from "freezing" to the propeller shaft (because of salt and/or rust). If the propeller is already " frozen" and it will not come off (after you tried tapping it with a hammer and cussing), you may have to cut it off with an electric hand grinder or something similar. Sometimes a propane torch will burn out the rubber insert that holds the propeller together. Neither method is pleasant. A little grease now can save you a lot of time and money in the future. NOTE: Do not hit the propeller hard with a hammer or you might bend the propeller shaft which will cause costly internal lower unit damage when you go boating. (63) For all boat owners, it is advisable to purchase liability insurance for your vessel because you are responsible for any damage or injury that is caused by your boat or its wake. (64) For most gas tanks (metal and plastic), do not fill to the top with gas. Give the gasoline room to expand during hot weather, or the pressure inside the tank may cause the gas to overflow, the tank to rupture, distort, or generate small cracks at its top etc. Sometimes the cracks may not be visible, but during the rainy season (unknown to you) water may seep into the tank through those cracks. You will not be able to start your engine if there is water in the gas. (65) For all saltwater fishermen, it is wise to carry a thermos of HOT water or coffee in case you catch a sculpin and get stuck by its poisonous fins. Pouring HOT water on the injury will immediately neutralize the poison. Using cold water to stop the pain will make it worse. Ask your medical doctor. (66) For all outboard motors, if your motor runs great with the hood off, but runs terrible with the hood on, you may have an exhaust leak that is fouling your carburetor. Consult your mechanic for a remedy. (67) For all outboards, if you hear electrical arcing, pulsating or buzzing noises when it is running, you may have an electrical problem. A good way to investigate the problem is to run the outboard at night where it is dark and look below the hood. If you see sparks, clean and tighten the connections or change the part that is sparking as soon as possible because the sparks can start a fire. (68) For all boat trailers, if you notice that your boat is sagging to one side, the trailer may have a broken leaf in its set of springs. If so, get it fixed promptly before another leaf breaks because of the added stress. (69) For all outboards, check the water intake near the bottom of your motor for a broken or "plugged-up" screen. Clean or replace if broken. (70) For all boat, car, and truck owners, if you have a build-up of acid corrosion on your battery post, pour very hot water onto it. The corrosion will immediately vanish. (71) For outboards over 10 years old that have foam-rubber glued to the inside of the hood by the manufacturer, be sure to REMOVE ALL OF IT by any means because the foam will flake-off and plug up your carburetor. DO IT NOW!!! Also remove any dust, or leaves because your carburetor will suck any loose material into it like a vacuum cleaner. (72) For all outboards, it is wise to start and run your outboard at home for 10 minutes before you go out boating or fishing. Sometimes your motor will not start. You do not want to have trouble starting at the lake or ocean. It is best to deal with the problem on land. Be sure not to start it without water. (73) For all boat trailers, you will need a jack and a lug-wrench that fits your trailer's lug nuts. If they are rusty you may need a length of steel pipe to give you more leverage with the lug wrench. (It also helps to spray W-40 on everything during removal). (74) It is wise to often check the tire pressure in your spare tire because it may be very low. It can lose air, by just "sitting". (75) To determine if your (questionable) boat battery is good, it will need a "load test". For an accurate reading, you should charge-up your battery for about 2-3 hrs. A load test takes about 10 seconds. Most auto parts shops will load test your battery for free. (76) For all outboards, many of them take about 1-2 minutes to warm up. In that time your motor may stall, misfire, run-rough, etc. It may need more choke or less choke depending on how much gas is in the carburetor or carburetors (if you have more than one). Be sure that the "pump-up ball" is hard and the carburetor(s) is full of gas. (77) For all boaters, you can expect that at some time in the future your outboard motor will not start or re-start while you are out fishing. If you can afford it, it is wise to carry an auxiliary motor, or mount one on the stern. It should be between 4 hp and 25 hp depending on the size of your boat. It can also be used to save gas when you are slow-trolling for fish. (78) For all 2 stroke outboards, if you notice oil "leaking" near the foot of the motor, it is NORMAL because all the oil in the gas that went into the engine for lubrication must either "burn" or drip-out after the motor is shut down. It is wise to use an oil drip pan under the lower unit to prevent a stain on your driveway or elsewhere. (79) For users of small boats that use outboards, to avoid painful blisters bring along a pair of leather gloves along with oars in case your motor won't start and you have to row. NOTE: Most boaters are aware of the above suggestions, but not everyone. I hope that I may have saved someone the inconvenience of having a bad day on the water. If I think of any more tips, I will add them to the list. Perhaps you should make a copy of the tips as a reminder.
