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1999 BOSTON WHALER 18 OUTRAGE CC, 2011 ETEC 150HP 300HR W/WARRANTY, 2014 TRAILER
$20,995
East Haven, Connecticut
Category Center Consoles
Length 18.4
Posted Over 1 Month
Best Offer Available1999 Boston Whaler Outrage 18 Top Line InformationYear:1999VIN:US-BWCLB057C997Make:Boston WhalerModel:Outrage 18 Condition:Pre-OwnedHull:FiberglassLength:18.4 ftExterior:WhiteInterior:WhiteEngine:2011 Evinrude E150DPXINE Single outboard 150 HP 150 HPHours:300Description You are viewing a super clean 1999 Boston Whaler 180 Outrage center console boat , motor and trailer. This very nice Whaler has never sustain any prior damage and has no present damage. This boat was repowered in 2011 with a 2011 Evinrude E-Tech fuel injected outboard equipped with power trim, tilt and stainless steel prop and has Extended warranty good till 9/30/2016. The outboard has been faithfully servived and runs out 100 percent. The boats hull is in excellent condition and is free from any major scratches, cracks or abrasions. The package is fully equipped with all the right options which include a bimini top w/boot, helm and seat covers, full canvas snap-on boat cover, stainless steel bow rail, swivel helm seats, Electronic Box, Lowrance Elite-Z Chirp GPS, depth sounder , chartplotter ,Standard Horizon VHF radio , AM-FM MP3 Stereo rear , transom livewell, two floor fish boxes, anchor locker, anchor and line, transom seats, swivel helm chairs, dual battery w/ switch, tackle storage, hydraulic steering, rod storage, transom retractable dive ladder and more. The boat sits upon a close to new 2014 aluminum bunk trailer equipped with disc brakes and spare tire. If you are looking for a super clean Whaler with newer power and all the right gear, do not miss this one. We are Diamond Marine of Connectciut and have been in business for 33 years. We are the largest exporter of new and used marine product in the North East . We have just taken this package in on a new Steiger Craft and have priced it for a quick sale. Take advantage of our New England cold weather pricing it will truly be an opportunity to own the right boat for the rights price. If you have any questions or concerns do not hesitate to ask. Please contact us by email or call us at 203-467-2481 ask for Karl or Mark At our dealership we work very hard to accurately describe our items through text descriptions and elaborate photos. When you purchase a pre-owned item it is not a new. Any used item can have normal wear and blemishes. Before placing a bid please read the descriptions thoroughly and view all pictures. If you do not see it in the text or pictures, do not assume it comes with the item. Call if you have questions at 203 466-5384 and ask for Mark or Karl.About Us Diamond Marine is located in North Eastern United States, we have been awarded the Top Seller award by Ebay Motors for the past two years. We are family owned and have been in business for over 33 years. Diamond Marine is a member Better Business Bureau, Connecticut Marine Traders Association and a Marine Industry Certified Dealership. We have an impeccable reputation in the marine industry. Diamond Marine is a leader in the remarketing of pre-owned boats internationally as well as within the United States. If a new boat is what you are looking for Diamond Marine is the exclusive dealer for Steiger Craft Pilothouse and Center Console fishing boats. We are also the largest boat trailer dealer in the United States with a tremendous inventory ready for immediate delivery. We have a full service department with factory trained technicians to provide service on all types of boats and marine engines specializing in Yamaha and Suzuki outboard motors as well as all I/Os. We do repowers locally as well as selling small outboards with shipping around the country available. Our 44, 0000 square foot, one acre heated indoor showroom provides a boat show atmosphere that is open six days a week year round. Their are always knowledgeable staff on hand to answer any questions you my have. Ebay and the internet has been a very successful method of advertising our high quality boats and trailers. We specialize in the coordination of international and domestic shipping. We are located 90 miles north of one of the largest ports on the East Coast (Port Newark). This enables us to provide very competitive prices on ground transportation to and from the ports. If you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact us either by phone at 1-203-466-5384 or by email at [email protected], ask for Karl or Mark.Additional Photos* * * Click Photos to Enlarge * * ** * * Click Photos to Enlarge * * *Phone: 203 466-5384 Boat InformationSpecificationsCapacity Persons:Dry Weight:Capacity Weight:LOA:Beam:83000150018.4 ft8.3 ftEngineFuel Type:Hours:Fuel Capacity:Warranty:Gas30031-40 gallonsLimited WarrantyTrailerYear:0 Included Standard EquipmentInteriorInterior in excellent conditionExteriorExterior in excellent conditionBoatBait TankBimini TopBoat CoverCompassDepth FinderDry StorageFish BoxFish FinderGPSLive WellNavigation LightsStereo Hours of OperationMon: Tue: Wed: Thu: Fri: Sat: Sun: 9a - 5p9a - 5p9a - 5p9a - 5p9a - 5p9a - 3pClosed Warranty TermsNotice to Bidders: All items sold by Diamond Marine are owned by Diamond Marine and not brokered (unless otherwise stated). We put our name and reputation on the line, on every sale. Which is why we go through each boat so thoroughly and have kept a 100% positive rating over hundreds and hundreds of boat sales over many years.Payment Types:Certified Funds and Institutional FinancingFees:Diamond Marine collects a processing fee of $189.00 for boat packages and $99 for trailers, which is added to the winning bid if items are picked up in person with no overnight mailings required. A $249.00 processing fee is added to all other domestic and international boat package transactions because of the added time to coordinate shipping , proper documentation and secured mailings (DHL & FEDEX). SALES TAX Diamond Marine collects Connecticut sales tax from Connecticut residents. Out of state buyers are responsible for all state, county, city taxes and fees, as well as title/registration fees in the state that the item will be registered.TEMPORARY TRANSPORT PLATES For residents of the United States, we can provide a CT DMV 30 day temporary transit plate for your trailer, issued right here at Diamond Marine. For non-residents of the United States the cost is $20 but must be obtained at the local Connecticut Department of Motor Vehicle office ( approx. 10 miles away) during their hours of operation. Terms:PAYMENT TERMS A winning bidder is required to contact us and give a $500 deposit within 24 hours of the closing of auction to secure the item. Buyer agrees to pay balance due ( plus applicable fees and taxes) within 5 days of the close of auction unless otherwise agreed upon by both parties. All financial transactions must be completed before delivery of the item. If terms are not met by buyer Diamond Marine reserves the right to cancel deal and relist the item.PAYMENT METHODS Deposits can be made in form of Cash in person, bank to bank Wire Transfer, Certified Check, paypal or credit card. We accept full payment by cash in person, bank to bank wire transfer, certified check or bank financing we do not accept paypal or credit cards for full payment. SHIPPING AND STORAGE TERMS The buyer is responsible for all shipping, storage and loading charges. We will assist all buyers with finding competitive shipping companies. Storage will accrue after 10 days at a rate of $10 per days after the end of auction. Forklift service and customized crating will be charged at a rate of $85.00 an hour. We assume no responsibility which may occur after item leaves our premises. Diamond Marine650 Coe AvenueEast Haven, Connecticut 06512Phone: 203 466-5384 ©2003-2015AutoRevo- All Rights Reserved Dealer Websites and eBay Templates Powered by AutoRevo
Basss Tracker, Vintage Restoration, with titles.
$4,500
Garland, Texas
Year -
Make -
Model -
Category -
Length -
Posted Over 1 Month
1981 Bass Tracker Vintage Restoration First I’d like to introduce myself, before I do the boat. My name is Tony hence the YNOT in YNOTMOTORS. This is not my first Bass Tracker restoration. So I am not an amateur. Officially her name is Hydra but technically she is Tracker #4. I am a military Veteran, and then a 20 yr. professional car salesman, in car dealerships (good ones). Even though I gave that up professionally, I still dabbled in buying and selling cars and motorcycles as a hobby, always treating my customers like I wouldlike to be treated. For the last ten years of my life I have been a 5th grade reading teacher where I taught Language Arts in title one inner city schools. Two years ago I had a neighbor down on his luck with a broke down Bass Tracker he was trying to sell. My dad has a lake house with a three boat lift and at the time no boat. One thing led to another, I bought that boat, I fell in love with Bass Trackers and over the last couple of years, I believe that I have become a Bass Tracker expert. How did that happen? By taking them apart and seeing what didn’t work, why it didn’t work, and then I made the repairs and the improvements, and found homes for them and my customers were happy to get them. One thing is for sure, these aluminum boats are works of art and when bass tracker makes them they put out the finest hull, in my opinion. But the problem is that there are only two ways to buy one, especially here in Texas, and that’s new from Bass Pro for $14-15k, or you do what I do, you find one on used, you pay $1500.00 and you go to work. And you pray, and I’ve learned, that you may have only spent $1500.00 but you can easily make a $5000.00 mistake. I’ve been fortunate, I am mechanically inclined, and I have been able to part out engines and get myself out of trouble, and I have learned a ton about outboards along the way. Google: 40-50hp engine for sale, and see what they go for. The hull is aluminum it melts and welds at 600 degrees, if it has a hole or a bad weld, or welds that come apart, and they do; there are people that can fix it, I know the best welders with the best equipment in the world and it’s no big deal, wood and wire is replaceable, but if your motor craps on you, forget about it. This particular boat was just about ready to list when I was fine tuning the carbs and all of a sudden the side of the motor starts to glow red when finally a hole had burnt through the side of the engine. Apparently along the line someone had repaired a hole on the side of the crank case with JB weld and then sold the motor. It held for a while, long enough to sell it to me. Currently that motor is being parted out on ebay, and that is why there is an Evinrude blue stripe along the side of this boat as it was to match that engine. I had to pony up and pay big for a Fresh water, 1996 Force 40hp “40ELPT” and that is what is powering your new boat. It is in very nice condition, I repainted the skeg. The hood was discolored so I hit it with some flat back paint and it looks really sharp. Since my old controls would not adapt to this engine, you also get a new out of the box Mercury remote control system with working tilt and trim buttons. The engine is attached to what I call the robot “panther 135” that lifts it up and down in degrees and angles that you can only imagine. It was designed to get you in and out of tight spots, and let you load and float in the shallows. A new out of the box fully adjustable transom saver takes away some of the stress from the transom while towing. You’ll see some of the pictures; this boat had her maiden voyage last week. If you know anything about Texas lakes than you might think: “where did he launch that thing? This boat will float in almost no water. The hull is not just super strong it is super lite. It was fully stripped and I’ve included a picture, two people, one on each end could have lifted it over their heads. The boat hull inside and out was steam cleaned, filled with water to check for leaks, and then all debris knocked off with a soft stainless steel wire brush wheel, and lightly polished. That is why the hull looks new. I am very impressed with Trackers Hull. This one is especially neat as it has natural dual ambient live wells. Even though we are starting to get into the boat, I want to finish with me. You don’t know me personally but you can look at my feedback, most of those sales where high dollar items and I have never had a problem. Why?Number one, I do it right. This boat has been restored to better than Industry standards! No corners have been cut. I can’t charge you for all of my labor because there are literally hundreds of hours of “Labor of Love.” The boat is right and you will know it, secondly if it’s not, I’ll give you your money back. I don’t want you to have it anyway if you’re not in love with it. Sadly she needs a good home with an aspiring fisherman because that is why she was built, with much love. When I got this boat 7 months ago, I was prepared to strip it, replace the floors, re-do the wiring, change fluids and hoses, carpet, repair welds all the usual stuff, when I realized I had a rotten transom, my heart sank. The transom was replaced correctly once again using better than industry standards, the labor was intense and the formation of the new transom time consuming, however we can now say that your boat has a new transom that will outlive any of her future owners.In addition to replacing the transom, the boat’s lower floor was replaced with aluminum sheeting and all new foam below the deck, it is solid and will last forever. In addition all the foam that was originally in the boat, is back in the boat unless it was no longer serviceable, and it was then replaced with a suitable high tech product. The boats steering cable was shot so, it was replaced, to include the entire helm Teleflex system to include the steering wheel. Two new bilge pumps were added. One is hardwired with an auto float and the other is manual, just in case. The boat has two new Ever Start Marine batteries. One dedicated to crank the engine and the auto bilge, and the rest of the electronics are wired off the other battery, everything has a fuse. While, we are talking about wiring; all wiring is correct and professional. Aluminum boats are a bit special; all grounds must be run back to the battery or it does real ugly things to the hull of your boat. There are no wires that run down the center of the hull allowing them to be submerged below water, like I see over and over creating magnetic fields and the decay of the aluminum. The boat is equipped with LED lighting above and below the deck. The Attwood 6 gallon tank is new, and so is the fuel line/primer bulb. The sound system is a 200 watt, Pyle Marine sound system with waterproof speakers, (resistant)no radio or CD here just plug in your IPOD, Android or IPhone via the phone Jack, there is a place on the console that you can put your device into for water resistance while under way. I installed two 12V plug ins on the console if you need extra power. Up front there is a brand new MinnKota 45; not foot controlled, because I hate the cables and there always in the way. The trolling motor, along with all electronics, to include the Piranamax dual beam fish finder, and boat batteries are all under manufacturer’s warranty. There are some new pole holders on board, and both the front and rear navigation lights are new. All seating is new, Wise seating under warranty, and of course the carpet is new and if it makes us feel better it is 100% recycled water bottles, yes; last long time, yet porous. The front and rear decks were Fiberglass gel coated and fibers glassed at stress points and are designed to outlast you. They will easily take a 300lb man or woman. The Hatches are water tight sealed, high dollar, Jim Black’s in Polar Gray. While on the subject of the decks; my biggest problem when restoring a Tracker is getting the decks off. I will tell you now there are no hidden bolts on the Hydra. The front and rear deck will come off in a matter of minutes, as was my design. Hey! Come on Bass Tracker! Stop screwing the decks down then carpeting over them. Here, you can see the bolts; you don’t need a chainsaw to figure out how to get the decks off. If there’s a bolt anywhere on the boat, then it is stainless steel, otherwise it is an aluminum rivet. There will never be a stainless bolt or screw in standing water. There are no bolts or screws on the floor; I only use aluminum rivets so you can drill them out and get the floor up easily, no more dissolved screws with stripped heads for any of her owners to worry about. If you have ever tried to get one of these floors up from the factory, or after Jim Bob got through with it, than you will thank me. Over the floor is an industrial strength rubber mat cut to fit exactly with a little rubber adhesive to keep it tacked down. The decks tops and bottoms have been designed to drain well. In fact the biggest challenge that I have seen and the biggest problem can come from the boats lack of an ability to drain. This happens because of poor design, not correctly storing your boat and/ or because drain vents clog up over time with debris. Let me brag on my boats, they are designed to drain, however all boats on trailers need to have the front of the boat higher than the rear of the boat during storage. All Tracker mid floors, rot from the bottom up. Imagine a pool of water under a piece of sheet plywood under the Texas heat and couple that with old porous non tech Styrofoam that just holds the water like a sponge, and then it begins to swell with little room to escape, oooh then we get the mold. Imagine a piece of foam the size of a cereal box that weighs ten pounds because it is alive. I have seen mold under floors and paneling that has made me run for my breathing apparatus. In fact if you are at all allergic and it kicks up around an old bass boat then you may now know why. My favorite test when buying a Tracker, is taking a 5 gallon bucket. Tilt your boat up so it will drain, now pour those five gallons along the inside of the front of the boat. Now go to the drain hole, place the bucket there and see how much water you recapture. Did you get five gallons? Give it some time, not draining? Where did that water go? My boats pass the five gallon tests, over and over and over. All channels for drainage are clear, and I use foam that will not hold water when submerged. The foam is required for these boats; they provide structural integrity, and keep them afloat in the event they are capsized. Also there is a small quirk with Trackers in the center of the hull especially the Pro TX 17, that keeps them from fully draining the centers/lowest parts. I solve that by drilling holes in strategic places. I have written Bass Tracker with images. I am sure I have forgotten something, but it is time to list it. The last one I sold on ebay sold to a gentleman in Alabama at this same price, and I will say that this is a nicer boat. The trailer is sound. I replaced the wood bunks and rails and carpet, the tires are ok, they look new but in reality they need to be replaced. Most of us around here keep our boats in the lift. If you’re going to pull it for a long distance than let me know and we can get the tires, they are $56.00 new apiece and they are trailer tires, I will ask you to pay for them, Ill mount and balance them free. The spare is decent. I did replace the bearings and races on the hubs, and mounted a new rolling/folding tongue jack so there are no issues there. I replaced the boat launch strap, new tail lights, new coupler and all of it works dandy, It, has a four pin tow wire plug. You can see in one of the pictures that I have two more vintage trackers inline that need some love so this one has to go. The “buy it now” is very fair, but make your best offer. Like I said earlier when you come get it, and it is not what I said, then I’ll give you your money back. I learned that at a Five Star Dealership I worked at for many years. Customer isn’t happy? Give them their money back. Please keep in mind that eBay charges me about %10 at the “buy it now” so my profits are tight. With my Trackers it’s always a labor of love, and I hope to put them into the hands of people that know how special they are. Buy it, you will love it! I am in Garland Texas, come by and take a look. I have 330 pictures of the restoration that comes with the boat on DVD and are on a zip drive, I could possibly upload them somewhere for you. I have been trying to put them on YouTube, but I can’t get them to load there. Nonetheless, you will receive the DVD. Also Included are all the instructions and manuals you will need for the sound system, fish finder, remote and trolling motor. I will accept full payment through PayPal in case you’re trying to use a credit card, and of course, I accept cash. I need $500.00 within 24hrs of the completion of the auction and full payment in 7 days. You must pick up the boat within that 7 day time frame. You will need your own Trailer plate. You may not borrow mine. You may not leave with the boat unless you or your representative are satisfied with the boats condition/ serviceability, and log onto my computer or yours, while here and provide me with positive feedback. If that is not possible you should not bid on this item. I cannot control what happens to feelings or machinery once it leaves me, and I certainly can’t be responsible for it. If you have questions ask now, not later.This boat is sold as is, where is. If it is not as described, I will refund your money %100. I am not a dealer, so I am not required to collect Tax or License. You will receive signed titles for the boat and the engine. Best wishes.
Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619
$1
El Cajon, California
Year -
Make -
Model -
Category -
Length -
Posted Over 1 Month
We buy, sell, trade, tune-up, and repair all brands, years, sizes and lengths of outboard motors including: Johnson, Evinrude, Mercury, Sears, Wards, Mariner, British Seagull, SeaKing, Clinton, Elgin, Eska, Aero Marine, Gamefisher, Cruise'n Carry, Force, Ted Williams, and numerous others in addition to: Honda, Nissan, Suzuki, Tanaka, Tohatsu, Yamaha, etc. We also carry used propellers for most of the above brands (it is best to bring your old propeller or outboard with you for a perfect fit). We have some lower units, power tilt and trim units, various used electric starters and small electric trolling motors for sale (great for kids on a small boat on a lake). Turn-around time, for carry-in repairs is about 5 business days or less.(depending on parts availability). A larger motor attached to your boat usually takes 1 to 2 days. We also rebuild electric and pull-starters for all motors and we have a huge selection of used outboard motors for sale ranging from 1hp to 250hp. All our motors have been serviced and ready to go. We do remove and install large outboard motors of all sizes. Call Marty at 619 - 972 - 9998 to discuss your motor. If no answer, please leave a message and I will get back to you as soon as possible. Please repeat your phone number twice because sometimes it is not clear. Often we can help you fix your problem on the phone at no cost. (Please no E-mails or texts). When you bring it in, we will give your outboard motor a compression and spark test, diagnose your engine, and tell you what it needs in repairs to get it back in good running condition. We will repair your motor at your request, answer your questions and make suggestions. Most of our business is by recommendation of satisfied customers. We will do everything possible to make you one. If we do not have the size or brand of outboard that you are looking for, ask us to put your name on our list and we will call you if and when such an outboard arrives. ------------------------------------- USEFUL TIPS & INFORMATION: ------------------------------ (1) All 2 stroke outboard engines made after 1963 require a 50:1 mixture (3 ounces of 2 stroke outboard motor oil per gallon of gas). The actual amount is 2.6 ounces per gallon (a little extra won't hurt, but less can cause severe damage to your engine). NOTE: NEVER use 100:1 as recommended by some manufacturers. It will cause your engine to lose compression and die prematurely. The only lubrication that your engine gets is from the oil that is mixed with the gas, therefore use 50:1 to be safe. (2) Older outboards (pre 1963) require double the amount of oil 25:1 mixture (6 ounces per gallon), some require a 16:1 mixture (8 ounces per gallon), and BRITISH SEAGULL engines require a 10:1 mixture (13 ounces per gallon). (3) 4 stroke outboards do not need oil mixed with the gas. Make sure the crankcase is full of oil (check the dipstick). If by mistake you ran your 4 stroke with oil mixed with gas do not be concerned. It's OK. (4) Always carry a minimum amount of tools like screwdrivers (blade and Phillips head), socket set including a spark plug socket, combination wrenches, vice grips, pliers, fire extinguisher, drift or punch to drive out a broken shear pin, a can of WD - 40, and a spray can of carburetor cleaner for starting emergencies, and a few extra new spark plugs (pre-gapped) in case yours become fouled, a new gas filter if your gas line has one, a tire pressure gauge, a long magnet and (extra-long) forceps (in case you drop a nut or a bolt), and a small flashlight. AVOID USING STARTER FLUID because it contains ether (bad for outboards). Also carry a pair of extra shear pins and cotter pins (for most outboards less than 35hp). And also a few small hose clamps to tighten a loose or leaking fuel line (see tip #53 below). (5) For small outboards under 40hp, keep the clamp handle screws greased so they will not freeze up from oxidation or salt. (6) For all outboards that have remote steering, grease the steering cable often if you go out in salt water to prevent the cable from "seizing up" and causing a costly repair. (7) For all outboards, starting it several times a year keeps everything "limber". (8) For all outboards, flushing your outboard in fresh water for 5 minutes after each saltwater use will prevent costly cooling system repairs. NOTE: Do not flush your motor in saltwater. Use a barrel, or a garden hose hooked up to outboard "earmuffs" or any other device made for your motor. (9) If you carry your small outboard motor in the bed of a pick-up truck, always tie it down securely or it might break the tiller or shift handle by rolling. (10) For all outboards, check your propeller for broken blades or chunks missing from any blade. Operating any outboard with uneven prop blades will cause vibration and damage to seals and other internal parts of the lower unit. Also it is best to carry a spare prop. (Approx. cost $50 for a used one) . (11) Spray a thin coat of WD 40 all around the powerhead of your outboard. It will not make your engine run better, but it will protect it from rust and salt deposits. (12) For pull start outboards, check the entire pull cord for signs of wear. You wouldn't want to break a pull cord when you are out fishing. (13) For electric start outboards, always carry 2 fully charged batteries in case one battery loses its charge. (14) For small (tiller steering) outboards up to 35hp, attach a short chain, cable or heavy rope (one end attached to your outboard's clamp section, and the other end attached to the transom of your boat) as a safety to prevent your motor from falling overboard. (15) For all outboards, in the event that you remove the top cowling to check your engine, put the cowling down away from the edge of the boat since any wave might send the cowling to the bottom of the ocean or lake. It will be difficult to locate a replacement. (16) For all outboards, most engine failure is a result of overheating. Always check the temp. gauge (if you have one) or by watching the "pisser". If you see steam coming out, shut the engine to avoid costly damage. Check the bottom of the lower unit to see if you picked up some vegetation, or a plastic bag which may be blocking your water intake. If you do not find anything, you may have a bad impeller or a bad water-pump housing. The best thing to do is, try (if possible) to get towed back by any good natured person in the area, or call "VESSEL ASSIST". If you do not have "Vessel Assist Insurance", it will be quite costly. To avoid all of the above, it is best to change your impeller every 2 years or sooner. Whether you use your outboard frequently, occasionally, or just once in 2 years, it is time more than wear that ruins the impeller. (17) If you own a boat (any kind), always remember to replace the drain plug in the stern (rear) before you go out, or the boat will slowly fill with water. This event happens to everyone at some time. It is best to make a check list and review it before you launch. (Also keep a spare drain plug near the drain-hole in your boat in case the original one gets "lost"). (18) For portable outboards, it is best (if possible) to mount the motor on land before you launch in the ocean, because any wave can cause you to drop your motor while you are mounting it. (19) For outboards with an integral gas tank (one that is built-in to your engine), always carry extra fuel and a FUNNEL, or much of the extra gas will be lost when pouring to re-fill your integral tank. (20) For pull-start outboards and some bigger electric starting engines, you should have a separate emergency starter rope with a handle in case your starter spring fails, or the rope tears, or the electric starter or battery fails. (21) For all outboards, it is wise to remove the propeller after several times of use, in order to remove the fishing line that sometimes collects there. This fishing line can cut through the prop seal and cause the lower unit to leak oil and take in water. (a costly repair). (22) Gasoline should be fresh (not more than 6 months old). If you choose to keep it longer, add the correct amount of STABIL. (23) For all trailered boats, (large and small) you should check the transom of your boat for stress cracks (caused by the motor bouncing because of bumps in the road). To prevent such cracks you should get a TRANSOM SAVER which takes the weight off your boat's transom and transfers it to the trailer. (It costs about $75, and can save you thousands). (24) For all outboards, check the lower unit gear oil. It should be dark brown or black in color. Water or coffee-n-cream color in the oil indicates a lower unit seal problem. Smelly/stinky oil is usually OK as long as the color is good. The gear oil should be changed annually. (25) For outboards up to 35hp, if you cannot get the boat to plane, try adjusting the tilt pin. If the boat still rides with its "nose" high in the air, it is probably because you have too much weight in the rear or (you may possibly have the wrong length lower unit). One remedy is to install a "WHALE TAIL" on the cavitation plate of your outboard to cause a greater lift in the rear. (It costs about $50). (26) For all boat trailers, you should get a BEARING BUDDY for each wheel. Its purpose is to keep the whole hub and wheel bearings greased and to prevent any water from entering the bearing zone when you back into the water. Keep it full of grease (with a grease gun). Without BEARING BUDDYS you can expect the bearings to seize-up sometime when you are trailering. You might snap an axle, lose control of your trailer, drop your boat off the trailer onto the road, or worse. BEARING BUDDYS are inexpensive and easy to put on. They can be found at any boat shop or automotive parts place. (27) For outboard engines that are partially submerged in saltwater for 3 months or longer, you can expect the lower unit's aluminum housing to begin disintegrating (dissolving). If you cannot keep the lower unit out of the saltwater, you should attach some zinc anodes to the cavitation plate. They will help save your lower unit. Cost of anodes $5 - $55 at any boat shop. (28) For all do-it-yourselfers, it is best to put grease or NEVER SEIZE on all the bolts that you remove and replace, to prevent rust and salt build-up on those bolts. (29) For all outboards, service your engine regularly. To do so not only prevents problems, but allows you or your mechanic to grease all the bolts that are removed and replaced so that those bolts will come out easily "without breaking" in the future. (30) For electric start outboards, at the first sign of starter trouble, get the starter serviced before you take the boat out fishing. Be happy that it gave you a warning. (31) It would be wise to carry an extra fuel tank "quick connector" fitting that "snaps" into your engine fuel fitting. The "O" ring that they all have sometimes goes bad causing the engine to suck too much air instead of fuel. The engine will then stall or run poorly. Cost about $7 - $20. (32) We sell many large 2 stroke outboards to unfortunate people who relied on their automatic oil feeders known as "VRO". We suggest that you disconnect your VRO and add oil to your gas the old fashioned way. Your engine can become totally ruined within seconds when your VRO fails. Don't take our word for this suggestion. Ask other outboard mechanics for their opinions. . (33) It is suggested that you do not go full throttle on any outboard, because it over-stresses your motor. You should use about 95% of your maximum power. This can be accomplished by putting in a "stop" near the end of your throttle or just remembering to back off a little. This should save gas, wear and tear to your engine, thus making it last longer. (It is similar to driving your car with the gas pedal to the floor) (34) For outboards that use portable gasoline tanks (2-12 gallons), it is wise to use a good plastic or aluminum gas tank. (An aluminum tank is hard to find). The reason for using aluminum or plastic is because they will never rust. A rusty tank will probably clog your gas filter or carburetor when the rust-dust gets there. You should keep the plastic tank away from the direct rays of the sun which will cause it to become brittle and crack. You should replace your plastic gas tank after a few years as needed. (35) For all outboards, never store your outboard motor upside down or it may seize from the water residue that will drain into the powerhead causing the internal parts to rust. It is best to store it vertically. (36) For small outboards (carrying type), it is wise to run your motor out of fuel before you take it off your boat. The reason is to prevent the gas that remains in the carburetor from spilling onto the carpet in your car or trunk when you lie the motor down. (37) For outboards that are bolted to the transom of a fiberglass boat, make sure that MARINE silicone is used to coat the mounting bolts and to fill the mounting bolt holes. Apply the silicone liberally. This will prevent water from getting into the bolt holes and save your transom from rotting. Behind the fiberglass is wood. The wood will rot over time if water gets to it. (38) For all outboards, never run your engine "dry" (without water) or it will seriously damage your impeller within 1 minute. You might not realize this, and the next time you go out boating or fishing your engine may overheat. (39) For all trailerable boats, it is wise to attach a safety chain from the "pulling-eye" at the front of your boat to the area near the winch. If your pulling strap suddenly breaks, the safety chain will stop your boat from coming off the trailer in transit. (40) For all outboards, when you change the gear oil, be certain that when you replace the oil screws, that each of the 2 screws has a plastic (or composition) flat washer to prevent oil from leaking out and water from leaking in. Sometimes the washers get stuck in the "screw well". That is OK. Replace the screws and tighten securely. NOTE: If the flat washer is missing, DO NOT replace with an "O" ring. It will surely fail. (41) For all outboards, it is wise to replace the lower oil drain screw with a magnetic elongated drain screw. It will catch any small loose steel particles that break off within the gearcase, warning you that a problem may be developing there. Approx. cost for a magnetic oil screw $8.00 at any boat shop. (42) For all outboards, when changing gears from NEUTRAL to FORWARD, or from NEUTRAL to REVERSE, first lower your speed to minimum. Do not "ease" the shifter into place. Be decisive! Slowly shifting into forward or reverse will cause the gears to grind and lead to costly repairs. (43) For all sailboats with outboard motors, be certain that your outboard motor does not pick-up out of the water when the sailboat rocks. One remedy is to lower the engine mount (if possible), or get an outboard motor with a longer shaft, or else the impeller may become damaged and fail, causing your outboard to overheat. (44) For 2 stroke outboards, it is wise to add outboard motor oil at the same time that you purchase gas. Waiting until you get home increases the chance that you will forget to add oil. Running your outboard without oil can destroy your engine within 15 seconds (a very costly error). (45) For small 4 stroke engines, when transporting your outboard off the boat or when storing it, it is best to keep it in a vertical position. If you must lie it down, make sure that it lies according to the manufacturer's instructions. Lying it down on the wrong side will cause the engine oil to seep out. Always check the oil level with the dipstick before you start any 4 stroke outboard. If your engine oil level is low, you can add any standard automotive oil. (46) To tell if a boat leaks without taking it to a lake or ocean, use a garden hose to fill the bottom of the boat with water. If the water leaks out of the bottom, the boat surely has a leak and it may show you exactly where to repair it. (47) Be smart: DO NOT LEND YOUR OUTBOARD MOTOR OR MOTORBOAT TO ANYONE. If you do, don't be surprised by the motor problems you will have have when it is returned. (48) For uncovered boats left outside between usages, remove the drain plug so your boat will not fill up with rainwater. Check the drain hole periodically to remove leaves, dirt, etc. Be sure to replace the drain plug before you go boating. (49) For all boats that are trailered, it is unwise to tow even a short distance without one or 2 spare tires. If you get a flat tire and have no spare, you can expect a mostly ruined fishing or boating day. I recommend 2 spare tires because in the event that you use your spare because of a flat tire, you no longer have a spare. NOTE: Many people prevent weathering of their spares by carrying them in their trunk. (50) For all trailer users, it is wise to have a 12 volt tire inflator that plugs into your cigarette lighter or attaches to your car battery. If your trailer tires are low they could possibly blow-out or become flat. A 12 volt tire inflator will take a few minutes to restore the required air pressure etched on the tire by the manufacturer. Cost: $15-$40. (51) It is wise to make a check- list of all the things you will need when you go boating or fishing so you will not forget anything. Write it on thick stiff paper so it will not crumble and can be used repeatedly, and you can add to the list as needed. (52) For all outboards, if your motor runs in neutral but it will not move in forward or reverse, it might have broken shear pin, or a faulty propeller, or a loose shift rod. Do not assume that the gears are bad until you eliminate those 3 items. (53) For all outboards, check all gasoline hoses. Today's gasoline contains alcohol which hardens and /or deteriorates most old hoses. They rot from the inside and cause problems with your carburetor and /or sometimes cause a dangerous gas leak and loss of power. It would be wise to change the hoses annually to prevent problems. The cost of hoses is approx. $2-$10 at any automotive shop. Bring a sample with you. Make sure that the new hoses are alcohol resistant. (54) For all sailboats that are in slips and use outboard motors mounted onto an outside kicker bracket. When mounting or removing your outboard it is wise to maneuver your boat so that the outboard motor is over the floating dock. This can be accomplished by backing up your sailboat so that the motor is not directly above water, but above the walkway. The purpose is to prevent the outboard from falling out of your hands when mounting or dismounting it. Many people have dropped their outboards into the water by trying to mount them while leaning over the stern. (55) For all trailers, make sure that the ball is securely fastened to the coupler before pulling the trailer. Sometimes the coupler "looks" as though it is fastened, but it is not. The trailer may become undone and cause havoc on the road. It only takes a few seconds to carefully check it before you tow. COST: zero, SAVINGS: perhaps a life. (56) For all trailerable boats, always check your trailer lights. The cops are out there with spare tickets anxiously waiting to give them out. It is also safer if all your lights are working. Backing your trailer into a lake or saltwater will often ruin your trailer lights. The cost of repairing the lights is considerably less than the cost of a ticket and a loss of time at the courthouse. P.S. You can also get a ticket if your safety chain is not properly attached. (57) For all outboards it is wise to buy or make any device that will stop or slow down a thief who would like to steal your engine. If it takes a thief more than I minute to remove your engine, he will probably go elsewhere. It is best if everyone made their own device so that the thief will not be able to figure out a system for fast removal. (58) For all outboards, always carry a metal scraper, or stainless steel wool, or at least some emery cloth, or sandpaper. Sometimes your motor will not start because the battery cable terminals are dirty or corroded, or other wire terminals or ground connections may be corroded. The emery cloth or sandpaper may restore a clean connection to wherever it is needed. (59) For all outboards sitting idle for long periods of time, check the wires (not the spark plug wires) by shaking them with your fingers. If the insulation is brittle and crumbles you must replace the wires before starting your engine because they might short-out and cause costly damage to your electrical components. They can also cause a fire under the hood. This happens mostly to old Mercury outboards, but it can happen to any brand. (60) If you made a checklist, add this to it: Swing or crank the trailer jack wheel up and out of the way after attaching your hitch, or it might get damaged or break off when pulling the boat for as little as a few inches. (61) For small outboards (up to 25hp), if you notice that your outboard is not "pissing" water, don't panic. It might be a clogged "pee" hole or a clogged intake. Check if the engine is HOT. If it IS HOT shut it down immediately. If it is NOT HOT, push a wire (the thickness of a paper clip) into the "pee" hole. This might open the clogged passage. Also check the intake screen (at the bottom of the engine near the propeller) for debris. (62) For all outboards, if you remove your propeller (for any reason), before you put it back on, it is wise to grease the propeller shaft to prevent the propeller from "freezing" to the propeller shaft (because of salt and/or rust). If the propeller is already " frozen" and it will not come off (after you tried tapping it with a hammer and cussing), you may have to cut it off with an electric hand grinder or something similar. Sometimes a propane torch will burn out the rubber insert that holds the propeller together. Neither method is pleasant. A little grease now can save you a lot of time and money in the future. NOTE: Do not hit the propeller hard with a hammer or you might bend the propeller shaft which will cause costly internal lower unit damage when you go boating. (63) For all boat owners, it is advisable to purchase liability insurance for your vessel because you are responsible for any damage or injury that is caused by your boat or its wake. (64) For most gas tanks (metal and plastic), do not fill to the top with gas. Give the gasoline room to expand during hot weather, or the pressure inside the tank may cause the gas to overflow, the tank to rupture, distort, or generate small cracks at its top etc. Sometimes the cracks may not be visible, but during the rainy season (unknown to you) water may seep into the tank through those cracks. You will not be able to start your engine if there is water in the gas. (65) For all saltwater fishermen, it is wise to carry a thermos of HOT water or coffee in case you catch a sculpin and get stuck by its poisonous fins. Pouring HOT water on the injury will immediately neutralize the poison. Using cold water to stop the pain will make it worse. Ask your medical doctor. (66) For all outboard motors, if your motor runs great with the hood off, but runs terrible with the hood on, you may have an exhaust leak that is fouling your carburetor. Consult your mechanic for a remedy. (67) For all outboards, if you hear electrical arcing, pulsating or buzzing noises when it is running, you may have an electrical problem. A good way to investigate the problem is to run the outboard at night where it is dark and look below the hood. If you see sparks, clean and tighten the connections or change the part that is sparking as soon as possible because the sparks can start a fire. (68) For all boat trailers, if you notice that your boat is sagging to one side, the trailer may have a broken leaf in its set of springs. If so, get it fixed promptly before another leaf breaks because of the added stress. (69) For all outboards, check the water intake near the bottom of your motor for a broken or "plugged-up" screen. Clean or replace if broken. (70) For all boat, car, and truck owners, if you have a build-up of acid corrosion on your battery post, pour very hot water onto it. The corrosion will immediately vanish. (71) For outboards over 10 years old that have foam-rubber glued to the inside of the hood by the manufacturer, be sure to REMOVE ALL OF IT by any means because the foam will flake-off and plug up your carburetor. DO IT NOW!!! Also remove any dust, or leaves because your carburetor will suck any loose material into it like a vacuum cleaner. (72) For all outboards, it is wise to start and run your outboard at home for 10 minutes before you go out boating or fishing. Sometimes your motor will not start. You do not want to have trouble starting at the lake or ocean. It is best to deal with the problem on land. Be sure not to start it without water. (73) For all boat trailers, you will need a jack and a lug-wrench that fits your trailer's lug nuts. If they are rusty you may need a length of steel pipe to give you more leverage with the lug wrench. (It also helps to spray W-40 on everything during removal). (74) It is wise to often check the tire pressure in your spare tire because it may be very low. It can lose air, by just "sitting". (75) To determine if your (questionable) boat battery is good, it will need a "load test". For an accurate reading, you should charge-up your battery for about 2-3 hrs. A load test takes about 10 seconds. Most auto parts shops will load test your battery for free. (76) For all outboards, many of them take about 1-2 minutes to warm up. In that time your motor may stall, misfire, run-rough, etc. It may need more choke or less choke depending on how much gas is in the carburetor or carburetors (if you have more than one). Be sure that the "pump-up ball" is hard and the carburetor(s) is full of gas. (77) For all boaters, you can expect that at some time in the future your outboard motor will not start or re-start while you are out fishing. If you can afford it, it is wise to carry an auxiliary motor, or mount one on the stern. It should be between 4 hp and 25 hp depending on the size of your boat. It can also be used to save gas when you are slow-trolling for fish. (78) For all 2 stroke outboards, if you notice oil "leaking" near the foot of the motor, it is NORMAL because all the oil in the gas that went into the engine for lubrication must either "burn" or drip-out after the motor is shut down. It is wise to use an oil drip pan under the lower unit to prevent a stain on your driveway or elsewhere. (79) For users of small boats that use outboards, to avoid painful blisters bring along a pair of leather gloves along with oars in case your motor won't start and you have to row. NOTE: Most boaters are aware of the above suggestions, but not everyone. I hope that I may have saved someone the inconvenience of having a bad day on the water. If I think of any more tips, I will add them to the list. Perhaps you should make a copy of the tips as a reminder.
