Force Trim Tilt Motor And Pump Boats for sale

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2002 Starcraft Pontoon 180 Cruise w/ 40 HP Force Engine with Tilt n Trim

2002 Starcraft Pontoon 180 Cruise w/ 40 HP Force Engine with Tilt n Trim

$7,995

Grandville, Michigan

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category -

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

This is one owner 18' Starcraft Pontoon purchased new at end of 2002 season from local dealer. Boat has had very little use, is on small lake and averaged 6 gallons of gas used per year. Engine is 1999 Force 40 HP with Very desirable Tilt and Trim. Engine has water pump 1 year ago. Otherwise routine service and have never had a problem with it.Starts with one brief hit of choke first time. Runs smooth and quiet. Boat has always been stored inside in off-season and always covered when not in use. Cover is included, has about 1-2 years left in it. No rips or tears, just general weathering. Boat has beautiful seating, vinyl is all in very nice condition, again no rips or tears or other damage, no repairs to boat ever. Motor was alway stored up out of water. Carpet is very good for it's age, probably because of how it was stored. No snags, rips or any damage. Floor is solid. I do have a trailer available, and we can negotiate that separately if interested. Boat is in storage, but easily accessed. Location is just north of Grand Rapids, Michigan. Selling because acquired MasterCraft X2 and only used twice this season. I think it is priced to sell, and would love to have the extra space for one of my cars. I can be contacted at 616-745-2001 or at [email protected]. Please restrict calling to hours between 8AM to 10 PM Eastern Standard Time. I have more pictures I can send if you provide e-mail me.

1988 BAYLINER WITH 125hp FORCE/MERCURY

1988 BAYLINER WITH 125hp FORCE/MERCURY

$2,995

Cape Coral, Florida

Year 1988

Make Bayliner

Model CAPRI

Category Bowrider Boats

Length 19.0

Posted Over 1 Month

1988 Bayliner 19FT long, with an 125hp FORCE (Mercury) with tilt+trim. This whole package came from Wisconsin rode just on fresh water. Motor has 130lbs on all cylinders. Lower unit all completely. Serviced with new water pump. Trailer is also available. O.B.O.

VERY NICE!!! REFURBISHED BAYLINER 1700 CAPRI LS, 120HP FORCE ENGINE,W/TRAILER

VERY NICE!!! REFURBISHED BAYLINER 1700 CAPRI LS, 120HP FORCE ENGINE,W/TRAILER

$8,750

Oklahoma City, Oklahoma

Year 1994

Make Bayliner

Model 1700

Category -

Length 17.0

Posted Over 1 Month

CLECK HERE John and Lizzy's FEEDBACK DetailREFURBISHED BAYLINER 1700 CAPRI LS, 120HP FORCE ENGINE,W/TRAILEREXCELLENT CONDITION!!! TRAILER INCLUDED ALL INTERIOR HAS BEEN COMPLETELY RE-UPHOLSTERED. EVERYTHING HAS BEEN TESTED AND IS IN WORKING ORDER, INCLUDING: HORNTRAILER LIGHTSBILGE PUMPNAVIGATION LIGHTSSTEREO W/ FOUR SPEAKERSTILE/TRIMASSISTED RACK AND PINION STEERING, BY TELEFLEX.ALL GAUGES BOAT ACCESSORIES AND OPTIONS: 1995 120HP FORCE OUTBOARD, ENGINE HAS BEEN COMPLETELY TUNED UP, INCLUDING REBUILDING OF THE FUEL SYSTEM AND CARBURETORS. RACK AND PINION ASSISTED STEERING. HYDRAULIC TILT AND TRIM. 21 GALLON FUEL TANK HYDROFOIL STABILIZER FOUR BLADE PROP NEW JENSEN M52013BT, USB, BLUETOOTH STEREO W/FOUR NEW SPEAKERS. LOWRANCE X67C FISH FINDER SIX CUP HOLDERS ALL INTERIOR HAS BEEN COMPLETELY RE-UPHOLSTERED. FOLD AWAY WINDSHIELD. WALK THROUGH OPEN BOW NEW BIMINI TOP W/BOOT (INSTALLED NOVEMBER 2015) FOLD AWAY LADDER THREE FISHING ROD HOLDERS (TWO BUILT IN AND ONE AFTER MARKET)ELECTRIC BILGE PUMP. NEW BATTERY TRAILER LIGHTS HAVE BEEN COMPLETELY RESTORED AND RE-WIRED; ALL TRAILER LIGHTS IN WORKING ORDER TRAILER TIRES ARE GOOD CLEAR TITLE THIS BOAT HAS BEEN REFURBISHED INSIDE AND OUT AND IS LAKE READY TODAY. THE MOTOR RUNS PERFECT; TOP-END SPEED OF 40MPH. VERY RESPONSIVE!!! MOTOR WAS TUNED UP AND FUEL SYSTEM REBUILT BY PROFESSIONAL MERCURY DEALER OCTOBER 2015; NEW STARTER WAS ALSO INSTALLED. EVERYTHING IS IN WORKING ORDER. THERE ARE A FEW VERY MINOR DOCKING SCRATCHES ON THE SIDES. · TAGGED UNTIL JUNE 30th 2016 IN OKLAHOMA.

1995 18' Quantum Bass Boat W/ 120 HP Force Runs...Cheap Super Low Reserve

1995 18' Quantum Bass Boat W/ 120 HP Force Runs...Cheap Super Low Reserve

$2,000

Bakersfield, California

Year 1995

Make Quantum

Model -

Category Bass Boats

Length 18.0

Posted Over 1 Month

1995 Quantum Bass BoatI have owned this boat for years, I will list all things as I know themFirst the badGelcoat is faded from sunThe Interior is shot, you can see the picsThe Bass seats were stolenNo Trolling motorThe Tilt/Trim Does not work, It is the pump which is $175 if your mechanically inclined, much more if your not!Tires hold air and have never been patched, but need to be replaced (Weathering)Now The GoodThe Engine Starts, Runs, Idles and shifts goodThe Hull is Clean and Smooth NO DamageBelieve it or not, the engine doesn't have many hours(See Pics)I own them and have titleBilge Pump WorksLights on Boat WorkLivewell worksNew PropellerEngine Runs great and has never been worked onTrailer is nice and not rusty and lights work It is going to take a little work.The only promise I make is that when you pick it up I will start it for you on the water muffs. It does NOT come with batteries, but I will install one to demo it for you. The Reserve is only $1000!I could take off the engine and sell it for $2000, but I really need the space. Please ask questions up front. There will be NO renegotiating on pick up, you pay the balance or I will refund your deposit. If you don't like it, no problem I will refund your deposit. $250 Deposit within 48 Hours balance on delivery. You Must be able to take delivery within 10 days of auction close

1995 18' Quantum Bass Boat Cheap! 120 HP Force Runs Good See Pics Make Offer!

1995 18' Quantum Bass Boat Cheap! 120 HP Force Runs Good See Pics Make Offer!

$1,750

Bakersfield, California

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category -

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

1995 Quantum Bass BoatI have owned this boat for years, the upholstery was bad when I bought it and I just never cared to. I will detail all of the good and all of the bad as I know them. First the badCarpet is shotSeat upholstery is shotOne seat is missingGelcoat is fadedNo bass seatsTilt/Trim is not workingNeeds batteriesTires are weathered but have held air for yearsNo trolling motorThe goodTitle is clear and in my name on boat and trailerMotor starts and runs flawlesslyBilge pump worksHas Livewell with working pumpHull is Excellent with no cracks or damageEngine is VERY clean under hood (see pics)Has newer prop...Has spare propHas built in cooler under seatLots of storageHas running lights and bass seat pedestalsDual ConsoleIncludes Working Fish Finder! The bottom line is this is a great opportunity to buy a boat that can be lake ready with just a little work. The motor is really worth the price. It certainly is no cream puff, but with a tilt/trim pump ($175) and new batteries it is lake ready. The motor needs nothing. Please ask all questions up front. I am sure I forgot something and want to make sure everything is up front. I have listed this as a BUY IT NOW or BEST OFFER. $250 deposit due at purchase and cash on delivery. I will offer a refund of the deposit at delivery if you don't believe the description was accurate, but, I will NOT renegotiate the price, you pay the balance or take a refund. Please look closely at the pictures, they will answer a lot of questions. Thanks

2006 Baja 23 Outlaw

2006 Baja 23 Outlaw

$19,950

Warwick, Rhode Island

Year 2006

Make Baja

Model 23 Outlaw

Category High Performance Boats

Length 24'

Posted Over 1 Month

2006 Baja 23 Outlaw “CURRENT PRICE” IS A GUIDE.  ALL OFFERS RESPECTFULLY CONSIDERED. General Description Rebels of the world... meet your ride! The Baja 23 Outlaw. Speed is what this boat hungers for. And precision? That's Baja's middle name! Distinctive styling, forward-thinking design, and unstoppable MerCruiser power combine to make the 23 Outlaw a force to be reckoned with. Actual Condition It is reported that the origin of the fire was found to be to the port side of the motor. The burnt out remains of a cleaning brush was found laying up against the exhaust tube and transom, and may be the cause of the fire. This might explain why the engine itself appears not to show any signs of an overheat. The exhaust appears only damaged from excessive heat temperatures from the exterior. The rub rail on the port side was black towards the stern from the flames. The engine room aft and to port was damaged from the fire on board. The fire originated port side of the motor and therefore caused fire damages to the transom. The interior of the engine room also was burnt with flames port side. The aft deck was damaged from flames on the port side. The black smoke caused damages to the transom and to the port side near the natural ventilation vents. The engine hatch also has smoke burns on the underside and vinyl damage at the rear of the hatch. The 12 volt system on board is damaged in the engine room at the motor and to the port side. The batteries and cables were not damaged as they were installed to the starboard of the engine. At the port side all of the wiring on the engine will have to be replaced. The tilt and trim pump also sustained melting of the plastic. Other items such as a blower, fuses and wiring for the exhaust system also were burnt. Please inspect carefully for further damage before bidding. Equipment The trailer can be purchased in a separate transaction with the yard. A trailer is not included in this sale. Engines Please read Motors and Machinery Disclaimer.

2006 Skeeter 200 ZX

2006 Skeeter 200 ZX

$22,500

Frisco, Texas

Year 2006

Make Skeeter

Model 200 ZX

Category Bass Boats

Length 19'

Posted Over 1 Month

2006 Skeeter 200 ZX, Custom Skeeter ZX 200 Dual Console Bass boat with Yamaha 200 HPDI ~This super clean ZX 200 offers all the technological innovations that make the ZX Series an aggressive force on tournament day. Every aspect of this Skeeter is designed to give you commanding power and fishability. Draft: 1 ft. 4 in. Beam: 7 ft. 8 in. Fuel tank capacity: 50 Max load: 1484 Standard features: 2 Lowrance Fish Finder w/ NMEA 2000 Network Buss and Temp Probe (Dash) Push Button Cockpit Command Center w/ Tachometer, Speedometer, and 12V Acc. Volt Meter & Horn Fuel, Water Pressure, and Trim Gauge Non-Tilt Hydraulic Steering Bolstered FulFlex Driver & Passenger Seating 24-Quart Ice Chest Between Driver & Passenger Seats Driver and Passenger Glove Boxes and Drink Holders Bow Panel w/ Troll Receptacle and Trim, Courtesy, & Anchor Light Switches Passenger Grab Handles Modular Consoles Custom Non-Skid Mats Interior & Exterior Decals Power & Performance Standard Features: Minn Kota Max 80F, 42 shaft Troll Motor w/Mount 10 Amp x 3-Bank Battery Charger 12 Manual Jackplate w/2 Stern Eyes Gas Assisted Lifts on Storage, Rod Box, Bilge Access Doors Interior Lighting Dual Tank Fuel System Front Deck Removable Day Box Storage Integrated Rod Storage System Skeeter Measuring Board w/ Storage Fishing Line Spooler Fish Chair with 13 Fixed Height Extension and Bike Seat w/ Power Pro Pole Livewell System w/ Independent Fill, Recirculating, and Drain Modes, with Timer and Pump-out Manual 800 GPH Bilge Pump 6-Gauge Troll Motor Wiring System with 3 Battery Trays Construction and Safety: Composite Construction X-Cess Aluminum Knee Brace Assembly Insulated Aluminum Doors No Splashwell Design Flush Mounted Latch/Locking System Bow and Stern Lights w/Holders Tinted Windscreen Stainless Steel Pull-Up Cleats Bow Traction Mat $26500

1992 Blue Fin Spectrum 24 Cruiser DLX

1992 Blue Fin Spectrum 24 Cruiser DLX

$8,995

La Porte, Indiana

Year 1992

Make Blue Fin Spectrum

Model 24 Cruiser DLX

Category Powerboats

Length 24'

Posted Over 1 Month

1992 Blue Fin Spectrum 24 Cruiser DLX, Motor Information: 1992 Mercury Force 40 HP Serial Number: 0E008019 Outboard Power Trim/Tilt 2 StrokeSpecifications: Deck Length: 240 LOA: 260 Tube Diameter: 23 Beam: 80 Person Capacity: 12 People Or 1620 lbs. Equipment: 1 Table (2 Bases) Bimini Top Full Cover Boss Marine Radio: AM/FM/AUX/USB Livewell Under Captains Seat Removable Boarding Ladder (Port & Starboard Mounts) 1 Fishing Chair Base- NO SEAT Humminbird LCR 400 ID 2 Entry Gates Double Wide Captains Chair Pump Sink Pop-Up Changing Station Stern Lounge Sun Pad

1999 Century 2300 Center Console Fishing Boat w/2003 Yamaha 4-stroke Low Hours

1999 Century 2300 Center Console Fishing Boat w/2003 Yamaha 4-stroke Low Hours

$19,500

Panama City, Florida

Year 1999

Make Century

Model 2300

Category Center Consoles

Length 25.0

Posted Over 1 Month

BlueValleyFirearns Store Present your best items with Auctiva's FREE Scrolling Gallery. CENTURY 2300 Center Console 2003 Yamaha F225 4-stroke Less than 450 hours on Motor 28' Aluminum Trailer, Surge Brakes Very Heavy Duty Features T-Top with Launchers and Lights T-top Electronics Box Brand New Upholstery Huge compartment under Console built in sink & room for port-a-potty Bait Well and Fish box Trim Tabs Anchor pulpit Anchor & Rope Additional Specs, Equipment and Information: Specs Hull Shape: Deep V Dimensions Beam: 8 ft 6 in Maximum Draft: 1 ft 2 in Bridge Clearance: 8 ft 0 in Dead rise: 18 ° at Transom Dry Weight: 3200 lbs Max Load Capacity: 2400 lbs Engines 2003 Yamaha 4-stroke F225 Total Power: 225 HP Engine 1: Engine Brand: Yamaha Engine Model: F225 Engine Type: Outboard 4-stroke Engine/Fuel Type: Gas/Petrol Engine Hours: less than 450 Engine Power: 225 HP Tanks Fuel Tanks: (100 Gallons) Accommodations Number of heads: 1 Seating Capacity: 8 Electronics Compass VHF Inside Equipment Small tackle compartment. Marine head needs Porta-potty Outside Equipment/Extras Swimming ladder Additional Equipment Road trailer Tandem Axel Bunk style Surge Brakes Year 2000 Aluminum Magic Tilt Manufacturer Provided Description The Century 2300 Center Console packs a lot of tournament-caliber features into an easily trailerable package. This efficiently designed boat blends anticipated angling amenities, like twin 40-gallon fish boxes and a 15-gallon aerated live well, with surprise offerings, like the step-down head with sink. Motor just serviced last week. New Plugs, Impeller, Oil change in motor and lower unit. Boat needs the following to be perfect. Stripe on waterline could be replaced. Trim tab pump may need replaced. A few switches show wear. A Few very tiny nicks in fiberglass. A spot by the ladder could use some fiberglass repair. There may be a few other things but, I tried to mention what I know. Remember it is a 16 year old boat. This boat rides rough water very well. I just took it out 15 miles in very rough water. This boat is advertised locally and I reserve the right to end the auction if sold! Normal 0 false false false EN-US X-NONE X-NONE Buyer to make a $1000.00 deposit via PayPal at auction end. Balance due within 3 days of auction via Wire, Cash or Bank Check! Boat also has 2 battery system with switch and 2 brand new Interstate Marine batteries. Boat is on trailer at Tyndall Air Force Base. If you would like to see it in person or sea trial, that can be arranged. Just email me. I have had tons on interest from a local ad. If you have serious interest you can email me an offer. Check the last 2 pictures of NADA Value. Boat & Trailer No Motor Low 12,790 Average 15,410 Yamaha 4-stroke 6,380 7,170 Total Value $19,170 $22,580

2015 Nitro Z-9

2015 Nitro Z-9

Request Price

Dixon, California

Year 2015

Make Nitro

Model Z-9

Category Bass Boats

Length 20'

Posted Over 1 Month

2015 Nitro Z-9 INCLUDES: Custom color, Power-Pole Blade 8" dealer installed, Removable port console, Carpeted center stepto aft deck with embroidered lid, KeelGuard, $bank 40 amp battery charger upgrade, Hot Foot,Trim lever on wheel, Retractable trailer ties, Dual axle 2 brakes upgrade, Minn Kota Fortrex 36v 112lb thrust, (2) Lowrance HDS 9 Touch w/StructureScan. NITRO Z-9—the dominant force on the water. And the choice of the world’s greatest bass angler—4-time Bassmaster Classic® winner Kevin VanDam. This fierce contender measures a staggering 20' 9", and with a stable 8' beam and motor capacity up to 300HP, there's nothing on the water that compares. Industry-leading, tournament-dominating features include our exclusive Revolution Mod V hull with Rapid Planing System to cut through the mightiest inland chop and launch you onto plane in an instant. The flush-mounted Lowrance® HDS-7C fishfinder w/GPS and the Minn Kota® Maxxum® 24V, 80-lb. thrust foot-controlled trolling motor help you find fish and stay on top of them. And with virtually unlimited options, including multiple graphs, custom colors, and Power Poles, you'll be able to customize your Z-9 to your exact specifications. The NITRO Z-9 rides on a custom factory matched trailer with an all-welded tubular GALVASHIELD frame, back-up lights, and new fiberglass fenders. The Z-9 is offered in limited availability for 2015, so get yours now.Limited availability for 2015 model year!16° variable deadrise hull with Rapid Planing SystemFold-down reboarding ladderTwo 20-gal. (75.71 L) insulated, aerated Guardian™ aft livewells w/timers & pump-out systemsHydraulic tilt steering w/through-deck hose fittingsFull instrumentation w/speedometer, tachometer, fuel gauge, trim gauge, water pressure gauge & oil reservoir level indicatorFlush-mounted Lowrance® HDS-7C fishfinder w/GPSPort & starboard rod lockers w/lights and lift assistBow bicycle seat & aft folding chair, both w/power pedestalMinn Kota® Maxxum® 24V, 80-lb. thrust foot-controlled trolling motorCustom-matched trailer w/GALVASHIELD® corrosion protection, fiberglass fenders, swing-away tongue & No Touch Vortex hub lubrication systemNEW trailer fiberglass fender w/integrated LED backup lights & carpet backing to protect hull

Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619

Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619

$1

El Cajon, California

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category -

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

We buy, sell, trade, tune-up, and repair all brands, years, sizes and lengths of outboard motors including: Johnson, Evinrude, Mercury, Sears, Wards, Mariner, British Seagull, SeaKing, Clinton, Elgin, Eska, Aero Marine, Gamefisher, Cruise'n Carry, Force, Ted Williams, and numerous others in addition to: Honda, Nissan, Suzuki, Tanaka, Tohatsu, Yamaha, etc. We also carry used propellers for most of the above brands (it is best to bring your old propeller or outboard with you for a perfect fit). We have some lower units, power tilt and trim units, various used electric starters and small electric trolling motors for sale (great for kids on a small boat on a lake). Turn-around time, for carry-in repairs is about 5 business days or less.(depending on parts availability). A larger motor attached to your boat usually takes 1 to 2 days. We also rebuild electric and pull-starters for all motors and we have a huge selection of used outboard motors for sale ranging from 1hp to 250hp. All our motors have been serviced and ready to go. We do remove and install large outboard motors of all sizes. Call Marty at 619 - 972 - 9998 to discuss your motor. If no answer, please leave a message and I will get back to you as soon as possible. Please repeat your phone number twice because sometimes it is not clear. Often we can help you fix your problem on the phone at no cost. (Please no E-mails or texts). When you bring it in, we will give your outboard motor a compression and spark test, diagnose your engine, and tell you what it needs in repairs to get it back in good running condition. We will repair your motor at your request, answer your questions and make suggestions. Most of our business is by recommendation of satisfied customers. We will do everything possible to make you one. If we do not have the size or brand of outboard that you are looking for, ask us to put your name on our list and we will call you if and when such an outboard arrives. ------------------------------------- USEFUL TIPS & INFORMATION: ------------------------------ (1) All 2 stroke outboard engines made after 1963 require a 50:1 mixture (3 ounces of 2 stroke outboard motor oil per gallon of gas). The actual amount is 2.6 ounces per gallon (a little extra won't hurt, but less can cause severe damage to your engine). NOTE: NEVER use 100:1 as recommended by some manufacturers. It will cause your engine to lose compression and die prematurely. The only lubrication that your engine gets is from the oil that is mixed with the gas, therefore use 50:1 to be safe. (2) Older outboards (pre 1963) require double the amount of oil 25:1 mixture (6 ounces per gallon), some require a 16:1 mixture (8 ounces per gallon), and BRITISH SEAGULL engines require a 10:1 mixture (13 ounces per gallon). (3) 4 stroke outboards do not need oil mixed with the gas. Make sure the crankcase is full of oil (check the dipstick). If by mistake you ran your 4 stroke with oil mixed with gas do not be concerned. It's OK. (4) Always carry a minimum amount of tools like screwdrivers (blade and Phillips head), socket set including a spark plug socket, combination wrenches, vice grips, pliers, fire extinguisher, drift or punch to drive out a broken shear pin, a can of WD - 40, and a spray can of carburetor cleaner for starting emergencies, and a few extra new spark plugs (pre-gapped) in case yours become fouled, a new gas filter if your gas line has one, a tire pressure gauge, a long magnet and (extra-long) forceps (in case you drop a nut or a bolt), and a small flashlight. AVOID USING STARTER FLUID because it contains ether (bad for outboards). Also carry a pair of extra shear pins and cotter pins (for most outboards less than 35hp). And also a few small hose clamps to tighten a loose or leaking fuel line (see tip #53 below). (5) For small outboards under 40hp, keep the clamp handle screws greased so they will not freeze up from oxidation or salt. (6) For all outboards that have remote steering, grease the steering cable often if you go out in salt water to prevent the cable from "seizing up" and causing a costly repair. (7) For all outboards, starting it several times a year keeps everything "limber". (8) For all outboards, flushing your outboard in fresh water for 5 minutes after each saltwater use will prevent costly cooling system repairs. NOTE: Do not flush your motor in saltwater. Use a barrel, or a garden hose hooked up to outboard "earmuffs" or any other device made for your motor. (9) If you carry your small outboard motor in the bed of a pick-up truck, always tie it down securely or it might break the tiller or shift handle by rolling. (10) For all outboards, check your propeller for broken blades or chunks missing from any blade. Operating any outboard with uneven prop blades will cause vibration and damage to seals and other internal parts of the lower unit. Also it is best to carry a spare prop. (Approx. cost $50 for a used one) . (11) Spray a thin coat of WD 40 all around the powerhead of your outboard. It will not make your engine run better, but it will protect it from rust and salt deposits. (12) For pull start outboards, check the entire pull cord for signs of wear. You wouldn't want to break a pull cord when you are out fishing. (13) For electric start outboards, always carry 2 fully charged batteries in case one battery loses its charge. (14) For small (tiller steering) outboards up to 35hp, attach a short chain, cable or heavy rope (one end attached to your outboard's clamp section, and the other end attached to the transom of your boat) as a safety to prevent your motor from falling overboard. (15) For all outboards, in the event that you remove the top cowling to check your engine, put the cowling down away from the edge of the boat since any wave might send the cowling to the bottom of the ocean or lake. It will be difficult to locate a replacement. (16) For all outboards, most engine failure is a result of overheating. Always check the temp. gauge (if you have one) or by watching the "pisser". If you see steam coming out, shut the engine to avoid costly damage. Check the bottom of the lower unit to see if you picked up some vegetation, or a plastic bag which may be blocking your water intake. If you do not find anything, you may have a bad impeller or a bad water-pump housing. The best thing to do is, try (if possible) to get towed back by any good natured person in the area, or call "VESSEL ASSIST". If you do not have "Vessel Assist Insurance", it will be quite costly. To avoid all of the above, it is best to change your impeller every 2 years or sooner. Whether you use your outboard frequently, occasionally, or just once in 2 years, it is time more than wear that ruins the impeller. (17) If you own a boat (any kind), always remember to replace the drain plug in the stern (rear) before you go out, or the boat will slowly fill with water. This event happens to everyone at some time. It is best to make a check list and review it before you launch. (Also keep a spare drain plug near the drain-hole in your boat in case the original one gets "lost"). (18) For portable outboards, it is best (if possible) to mount the motor on land before you launch in the ocean, because any wave can cause you to drop your motor while you are mounting it. (19) For outboards with an integral gas tank (one that is built-in to your engine), always carry extra fuel and a FUNNEL, or much of the extra gas will be lost when pouring to re-fill your integral tank. (20) For pull-start outboards and some bigger electric starting engines, you should have a separate emergency starter rope with a handle in case your starter spring fails, or the rope tears, or the electric starter or battery fails. (21) For all outboards, it is wise to remove the propeller after several times of use, in order to remove the fishing line that sometimes collects there. This fishing line can cut through the prop seal and cause the lower unit to leak oil and take in water. (a costly repair). (22) Gasoline should be fresh (not more than 6 months old). If you choose to keep it longer, add the correct amount of STABIL. (23) For all trailered boats, (large and small) you should check the transom of your boat for stress cracks (caused by the motor bouncing because of bumps in the road). To prevent such cracks you should get a TRANSOM SAVER which takes the weight off your boat's transom and transfers it to the trailer. (It costs about $75, and can save you thousands). (24) For all outboards, check the lower unit gear oil. It should be dark brown or black in color. Water or coffee-n-cream color in the oil indicates a lower unit seal problem. Smelly/stinky oil is usually OK as long as the color is good. The gear oil should be changed annually. (25) For outboards up to 35hp, if you cannot get the boat to plane, try adjusting the tilt pin. If the boat still rides with its "nose" high in the air, it is probably because you have too much weight in the rear or (you may possibly have the wrong length lower unit). One remedy is to install a "WHALE TAIL" on the cavitation plate of your outboard to cause a greater lift in the rear. (It costs about $50). (26) For all boat trailers, you should get a BEARING BUDDY for each wheel. Its purpose is to keep the whole hub and wheel bearings greased and to prevent any water from entering the bearing zone when you back into the water. Keep it full of grease (with a grease gun). Without BEARING BUDDYS you can expect the bearings to seize-up sometime when you are trailering. You might snap an axle, lose control of your trailer, drop your boat off the trailer onto the road, or worse. BEARING BUDDYS are inexpensive and easy to put on. They can be found at any boat shop or automotive parts place. (27) For outboard engines that are partially submerged in saltwater for 3 months or longer, you can expect the lower unit's aluminum housing to begin disintegrating (dissolving). If you cannot keep the lower unit out of the saltwater, you should attach some zinc anodes to the cavitation plate. They will help save your lower unit. Cost of anodes $5 - $55 at any boat shop. (28) For all do-it-yourselfers, it is best to put grease or NEVER SEIZE on all the bolts that you remove and replace, to prevent rust and salt build-up on those bolts. (29) For all outboards, service your engine regularly. To do so not only prevents problems, but allows you or your mechanic to grease all the bolts that are removed and replaced so that those bolts will come out easily "without breaking" in the future. (30) For electric start outboards, at the first sign of starter trouble, get the starter serviced before you take the boat out fishing. Be happy that it gave you a warning. (31) It would be wise to carry an extra fuel tank "quick connector" fitting that "snaps" into your engine fuel fitting. The "O" ring that they all have sometimes goes bad causing the engine to suck too much air instead of fuel. The engine will then stall or run poorly. Cost about $7 - $20. (32) We sell many large 2 stroke outboards to unfortunate people who relied on their automatic oil feeders known as "VRO". We suggest that you disconnect your VRO and add oil to your gas the old fashioned way. Your engine can become totally ruined within seconds when your VRO fails. Don't take our word for this suggestion. Ask other outboard mechanics for their opinions. . (33) It is suggested that you do not go full throttle on any outboard, because it over-stresses your motor. You should use about 95% of your maximum power. This can be accomplished by putting in a "stop" near the end of your throttle or just remembering to back off a little. This should save gas, wear and tear to your engine, thus making it last longer. (It is similar to driving your car with the gas pedal to the floor) (34) For outboards that use portable gasoline tanks (2-12 gallons), it is wise to use a good plastic or aluminum gas tank. (An aluminum tank is hard to find). The reason for using aluminum or plastic is because they will never rust. A rusty tank will probably clog your gas filter or carburetor when the rust-dust gets there. You should keep the plastic tank away from the direct rays of the sun which will cause it to become brittle and crack. You should replace your plastic gas tank after a few years as needed. (35) For all outboards, never store your outboard motor upside down or it may seize from the water residue that will drain into the powerhead causing the internal parts to rust. It is best to store it vertically. (36) For small outboards (carrying type), it is wise to run your motor out of fuel before you take it off your boat. The reason is to prevent the gas that remains in the carburetor from spilling onto the carpet in your car or trunk when you lie the motor down. (37) For outboards that are bolted to the transom of a fiberglass boat, make sure that MARINE silicone is used to coat the mounting bolts and to fill the mounting bolt holes. Apply the silicone liberally. This will prevent water from getting into the bolt holes and save your transom from rotting. Behind the fiberglass is wood. The wood will rot over time if water gets to it. (38) For all outboards, never run your engine "dry" (without water) or it will seriously damage your impeller within 1 minute. You might not realize this, and the next time you go out boating or fishing your engine may overheat. (39) For all trailerable boats, it is wise to attach a safety chain from the "pulling-eye" at the front of your boat to the area near the winch. If your pulling strap suddenly breaks, the safety chain will stop your boat from coming off the trailer in transit. (40) For all outboards, when you change the gear oil, be certain that when you replace the oil screws, that each of the 2 screws has a plastic (or composition) flat washer to prevent oil from leaking out and water from leaking in. Sometimes the washers get stuck in the "screw well". That is OK. Replace the screws and tighten securely. NOTE: If the flat washer is missing, DO NOT replace with an "O" ring. It will surely fail. (41) For all outboards, it is wise to replace the lower oil drain screw with a magnetic elongated drain screw. It will catch any small loose steel particles that break off within the gearcase, warning you that a problem may be developing there. Approx. cost for a magnetic oil screw $8.00 at any boat shop. (42) For all outboards, when changing gears from NEUTRAL to FORWARD, or from NEUTRAL to REVERSE, first lower your speed to minimum. Do not "ease" the shifter into place. Be decisive! Slowly shifting into forward or reverse will cause the gears to grind and lead to costly repairs. (43) For all sailboats with outboard motors, be certain that your outboard motor does not pick-up out of the water when the sailboat rocks. One remedy is to lower the engine mount (if possible), or get an outboard motor with a longer shaft, or else the impeller may become damaged and fail, causing your outboard to overheat. (44) For 2 stroke outboards, it is wise to add outboard motor oil at the same time that you purchase gas. Waiting until you get home increases the chance that you will forget to add oil. Running your outboard without oil can destroy your engine within 15 seconds (a very costly error). (45) For small 4 stroke engines, when transporting your outboard off the boat or when storing it, it is best to keep it in a vertical position. If you must lie it down, make sure that it lies according to the manufacturer's instructions. Lying it down on the wrong side will cause the engine oil to seep out. Always check the oil level with the dipstick before you start any 4 stroke outboard. If your engine oil level is low, you can add any standard automotive oil. (46) To tell if a boat leaks without taking it to a lake or ocean, use a garden hose to fill the bottom of the boat with water. If the water leaks out of the bottom, the boat surely has a leak and it may show you exactly where to repair it. (47) Be smart: DO NOT LEND YOUR OUTBOARD MOTOR OR MOTORBOAT TO ANYONE. If you do, don't be surprised by the motor problems you will have have when it is returned. (48) For uncovered boats left outside between usages, remove the drain plug so your boat will not fill up with rainwater. Check the drain hole periodically to remove leaves, dirt, etc. Be sure to replace the drain plug before you go boating. (49) For all boats that are trailered, it is unwise to tow even a short distance without one or 2 spare tires. If you get a flat tire and have no spare, you can expect a mostly ruined fishing or boating day. I recommend 2 spare tires because in the event that you use your spare because of a flat tire, you no longer have a spare. NOTE: Many people prevent weathering of their spares by carrying them in their trunk. (50) For all trailer users, it is wise to have a 12 volt tire inflator that plugs into your cigarette lighter or attaches to your car battery. If your trailer tires are low they could possibly blow-out or become flat. A 12 volt tire inflator will take a few minutes to restore the required air pressure etched on the tire by the manufacturer. Cost: $15-$40. (51) It is wise to make a check- list of all the things you will need when you go boating or fishing so you will not forget anything. Write it on thick stiff paper so it will not crumble and can be used repeatedly, and you can add to the list as needed. (52) For all outboards, if your motor runs in neutral but it will not move in forward or reverse, it might have broken shear pin, or a faulty propeller, or a loose shift rod. Do not assume that the gears are bad until you eliminate those 3 items. (53) For all outboards, check all gasoline hoses. Today's gasoline contains alcohol which hardens and /or deteriorates most old hoses. They rot from the inside and cause problems with your carburetor and /or sometimes cause a dangerous gas leak and loss of power. It would be wise to change the hoses annually to prevent problems. The cost of hoses is approx. $2-$10 at any automotive shop. Bring a sample with you. Make sure that the new hoses are alcohol resistant. (54) For all sailboats that are in slips and use outboard motors mounted onto an outside kicker bracket. When mounting or removing your outboard it is wise to maneuver your boat so that the outboard motor is over the floating dock. This can be accomplished by backing up your sailboat so that the motor is not directly above water, but above the walkway. The purpose is to prevent the outboard from falling out of your hands when mounting or dismounting it. Many people have dropped their outboards into the water by trying to mount them while leaning over the stern. (55) For all trailers, make sure that the ball is securely fastened to the coupler before pulling the trailer. Sometimes the coupler "looks" as though it is fastened, but it is not. The trailer may become undone and cause havoc on the road. It only takes a few seconds to carefully check it before you tow. COST: zero, SAVINGS: perhaps a life. (56) For all trailerable boats, always check your trailer lights. The cops are out there with spare tickets anxiously waiting to give them out. It is also safer if all your lights are working. Backing your trailer into a lake or saltwater will often ruin your trailer lights. The cost of repairing the lights is considerably less than the cost of a ticket and a loss of time at the courthouse. P.S. You can also get a ticket if your safety chain is not properly attached. (57) For all outboards it is wise to buy or make any device that will stop or slow down a thief who would like to steal your engine. If it takes a thief more than I minute to remove your engine, he will probably go elsewhere. It is best if everyone made their own device so that the thief will not be able to figure out a system for fast removal. (58) For all outboards, always carry a metal scraper, or stainless steel wool, or at least some emery cloth, or sandpaper. Sometimes your motor will not start because the battery cable terminals are dirty or corroded, or other wire terminals or ground connections may be corroded. The emery cloth or sandpaper may restore a clean connection to wherever it is needed. (59) For all outboards sitting idle for long periods of time, check the wires (not the spark plug wires) by shaking them with your fingers. If the insulation is brittle and crumbles you must replace the wires before starting your engine because they might short-out and cause costly damage to your electrical components. They can also cause a fire under the hood. This happens mostly to old Mercury outboards, but it can happen to any brand. (60) If you made a checklist, add this to it: Swing or crank the trailer jack wheel up and out of the way after attaching your hitch, or it might get damaged or break off when pulling the boat for as little as a few inches. (61) For small outboards (up to 25hp), if you notice that your outboard is not "pissing" water, don't panic. It might be a clogged "pee" hole or a clogged intake. Check if the engine is HOT. If it IS HOT shut it down immediately. If it is NOT HOT, push a wire (the thickness of a paper clip) into the "pee" hole. This might open the clogged passage. Also check the intake screen (at the bottom of the engine near the propeller) for debris. (62) For all outboards, if you remove your propeller (for any reason), before you put it back on, it is wise to grease the propeller shaft to prevent the propeller from "freezing" to the propeller shaft (because of salt and/or rust). If the propeller is already " frozen" and it will not come off (after you tried tapping it with a hammer and cussing), you may have to cut it off with an electric hand grinder or something similar. Sometimes a propane torch will burn out the rubber insert that holds the propeller together. Neither method is pleasant. A little grease now can save you a lot of time and money in the future. NOTE: Do not hit the propeller hard with a hammer or you might bend the propeller shaft which will cause costly internal lower unit damage when you go boating. (63) For all boat owners, it is advisable to purchase liability insurance for your vessel because you are responsible for any damage or injury that is caused by your boat or its wake. (64) For most gas tanks (metal and plastic), do not fill to the top with gas. Give the gasoline room to expand during hot weather, or the pressure inside the tank may cause the gas to overflow, the tank to rupture, distort, or generate small cracks at its top etc. Sometimes the cracks may not be visible, but during the rainy season (unknown to you) water may seep into the tank through those cracks. You will not be able to start your engine if there is water in the gas. (65) For all saltwater fishermen, it is wise to carry a thermos of HOT water or coffee in case you catch a sculpin and get stuck by its poisonous fins. Pouring HOT water on the injury will immediately neutralize the poison. Using cold water to stop the pain will make it worse. Ask your medical doctor. (66) For all outboard motors, if your motor runs great with the hood off, but runs terrible with the hood on, you may have an exhaust leak that is fouling your carburetor. Consult your mechanic for a remedy. (67) For all outboards, if you hear electrical arcing, pulsating or buzzing noises when it is running, you may have an electrical problem. A good way to investigate the problem is to run the outboard at night where it is dark and look below the hood. If you see sparks, clean and tighten the connections or change the part that is sparking as soon as possible because the sparks can start a fire. (68) For all boat trailers, if you notice that your boat is sagging to one side, the trailer may have a broken leaf in its set of springs. If so, get it fixed promptly before another leaf breaks because of the added stress. (69) For all outboards, check the water intake near the bottom of your motor for a broken or "plugged-up" screen. Clean or replace if broken. (70) For all boat, car, and truck owners, if you have a build-up of acid corrosion on your battery post, pour very hot water onto it. The corrosion will immediately vanish. (71) For outboards over 10 years old that have foam-rubber glued to the inside of the hood by the manufacturer, be sure to REMOVE ALL OF IT by any means because the foam will flake-off and plug up your carburetor. DO IT NOW!!! Also remove any dust, or leaves because your carburetor will suck any loose material into it like a vacuum cleaner. (72) For all outboards, it is wise to start and run your outboard at home for 10 minutes before you go out boating or fishing. Sometimes your motor will not start. You do not want to have trouble starting at the lake or ocean. It is best to deal with the problem on land. Be sure not to start it without water. (73) For all boat trailers, you will need a jack and a lug-wrench that fits your trailer's lug nuts. If they are rusty you may need a length of steel pipe to give you more leverage with the lug wrench. (It also helps to spray W-40 on everything during removal). (74) It is wise to often check the tire pressure in your spare tire because it may be very low. It can lose air, by just "sitting". (75) To determine if your (questionable) boat battery is good, it will need a "load test". For an accurate reading, you should charge-up your battery for about 2-3 hrs. A load test takes about 10 seconds. Most auto parts shops will load test your battery for free. (76) For all outboards, many of them take about 1-2 minutes to warm up. In that time your motor may stall, misfire, run-rough, etc. It may need more choke or less choke depending on how much gas is in the carburetor or carburetors (if you have more than one). Be sure that the "pump-up ball" is hard and the carburetor(s) is full of gas. (77) For all boaters, you can expect that at some time in the future your outboard motor will not start or re-start while you are out fishing. If you can afford it, it is wise to carry an auxiliary motor, or mount one on the stern. It should be between 4 hp and 25 hp depending on the size of your boat. It can also be used to save gas when you are slow-trolling for fish. (78) For all 2 stroke outboards, if you notice oil "leaking" near the foot of the motor, it is NORMAL because all the oil in the gas that went into the engine for lubrication must either "burn" or drip-out after the motor is shut down. It is wise to use an oil drip pan under the lower unit to prevent a stain on your driveway or elsewhere. (79) For users of small boats that use outboards, to avoid painful blisters bring along a pair of leather gloves along with oars in case your motor won't start and you have to row. NOTE: Most boaters are aware of the above suggestions, but not everyone. I hope that I may have saved someone the inconvenience of having a bad day on the water. If I think of any more tips, I will add them to the list. Perhaps you should make a copy of the tips as a reminder.