Force_boats 29 Boats For Sale Boats for sale

1-5 of 5

Sort By

1997 Allison Boats XB-2003

$19,900

St Cloud, Florida

Year 1997

Make Allison Boats

Model XB-2003

Category High Performance Boats

Length 20'

Posted Over 1 Month

1997 Allison Boats XB-2003 1997 20’ ALLISON 2003 XB HIGH PERFORMANCE / BASS BOAT FOR SALE IN ORLANDO / CENTRAL FLORIDA / ST. CLOUD, FL 1997 Allison 20'3 High Performance Bass Boat, always garage kept, single axle trailer, powder coated, aluminum rims, hydraulic steering (Sea Star Pro), 2 Lowrance fishfinders, 24v OMC hand control trolling motor, 3 Optima batteries. Mercury engine is a 2.5 liter sleeved block that was originally a 225 ProMax EFI. Now produces 260 to 270 HP. Features 20” mid section. Owner reports top speed of 95-100 mph depending on gearcase and prop. Modifications include Brucato ECU and SVS intake, 32 CC heads with thin gasket and spare set of heads, matched exhaust ports, lightweight wrist pins, Mercury Sport Jet reeds and cages, exhaust rail opened ½ way out and angled into tuner, G Force custom tuner, Mercury Racing lightweight flywheel with 16 amp stator, Sportmaster gearcase with 1.86 gears. 3 Mercury Racing props, 28, 29, 30 pitch. This is a real screamer in very good condition and priced to sell.

2006 Fountain 29' Fever, MINT, Mercury Racing 525 EFI,"48 Hrs",We Export

$63,000

The Colony, Texas

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category -

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

2006 Fountain 29' Fever Year Make Model Mileage Engine 2006 Fountain 29' Fever 48 Mercury Racing 525 EFI Bravo 1 XR Exterior Interior Stock# VIN Unknown Color #C72K506GM FGQ9T172K506 2006 Fountain 29' Fever 2006 FOUNTAIN 29' FEVER UPGRADED MERCURY RACING 525 EFI (525 HP) MERCRUISER BRAVO I XR STERN DRIVE ***MINT CONDITION**** ***ONLY "48" HOURS*** ***BOAT HAS NEVER SEEN SALT WATER*** ***BUY IT NOW ONLY $65,000.00 USD*** ABOUT THE 2006 FOUNTAIN 29' FEVER Reggie Fountain builds boats, fast boats. Since early in his racing days, Reggie has constantly worked towards attaining and improving on the fastest V-hull design out there. This is all very apparent in Reggie’s 29 Fever sportboat. Boarding the 29 Fever seems safe and comfortable. The feel of speed is immediate on this boat, and you definitely feel the force as you add throttle. Specially on this boat with the upgraded Mercury Racing 525 EFI motor. The advantages of Reggie’s hull design become apparent when you are moving at top speed and run through performance turns without the dreaded skip, slide, or chine walking many others give at lower speeds. Up front, you have an anchor locker and bow rails. There’s plenty of room to spread out for sunning, but it’s not an area to ride when the boat is underway. Pop up cleats are also in this area and maintain the smooth surface when stowed. The cockpit is protected by a full framed wraparound windshield that does not block the view of the driver. All controls are easy to reach at the helm. In addition, the steering is very responsive thanks to the Full Latham hydraulic system. The bolsters have bottom cushions that are power driven and are very comfortable for long-range trips. The seats drop away for the fast runs and safely hold you in position, even in the tightest turns. When you are cruising, you can easily bring the seat up for a comfortable ride. The ultra leather seating continues with a bench behind the driver and companion seat. Here three more people can rest in luxury and comfort. Using the standard power lift, you will find all the essential checkpoints on the power plant easy to reach. Fountain left plenty of room in the single engine configuration to get to all areas in the engine compartment. With the engine hatch closed, the cover makes a comfortable padded area to soak up the sun. The pad also is good to your feet when you are coming back aboard. Getting aboard is simple using the folding swim ladder on the integrated swim platform. Accommodations below are ample for two people overnighting, yet can handle up to four thanks to a privacy curtain for some separation. A small galley with pressurized water and a built-in ice chest make the long days on the water much more inviting. If you want a boat that will grab everyone’s attention from the moment you’re cranked up to the seconds it takes to become a fuzzy image on the horizon going 80 MPH to those watching, be sure to check out Fountain’s 29 Fever. This boat just might be for you! VESSEL CONDITION This boat/motor package is in ***MINT*** condition. ALWAYS DRYSTORED INDOORS IN CLIMATE CONTROLLED BUILDING. Exterior Like NEW. The cockpit upholstery throughout the boat is in excellent condition. No Tears anywhere. Only "48" Hours on the boat and motor, The outdrive is in EXCELLENT condition. The Cockpit Cover anf Full Mooring Cover are also in good condition. All Service was just Performed and Boat Fully Detailed. "Turn Key" Feel free to visit us in Lewisville, TX (North Dallas, TX) and see this boat in person. Marine surveys and mechanical inspections are welcome. Vessel sold as-is, where-is with no warranty expressed or implied. SPECIFICATIONS Overall Length: 29' / 9.00 m Beam: 8' 4" / 2.55 m Dry Weight: 5,500 lbs / 2 495 kg Fuel Capacity: 140 Gall / 530 L Water Capacity: 15 Gall / 57 L FEATURES & OPTIONS FUELINJECTED MERCURY RACING 525 EFI MOTOR MERCRUISER BRAVO I XR STERN DRIVE SNAP ON COCKPIT COVER FULL MOORING COVER FRESH WATER SYSTEM LATHAM "FULL" HYDRAULIC STEERING LARGE K-PLANE TRIM TABS LIVORSI GAUGES AND THROTTLE LIVORSI GPS SPEEDO W/ RECALL DIGITAL DEPTH FINDER BOW AND AFT SWIM LADDER COMPASS DIGITAL DEPTH FINDER DUAL BATTERIES W/ SWITCH DUAL RAM ELECTRIC ENGINGEHATCH AUTOMATIC FIRE EXTINGUISHING SYSTEM LOGO PILLOWS (FOUNTAIN) PULL-UP CLEATS BOAT TRAILER THE TRAILER IN PICTURES "IS INCLUDED IN "BUY IT NOW" OR "ACCEPTED OFFER" It's a 2008 Tandem Axle Eagle Trailer Surge Disc Brakes, "4 NEW Tires", Spare Tire GVWR: 10000 LBS VIN: 4JEBE282X81263036 SERIAL NUMBERS / DETAILS Hull Identification Number: FGQ9T172K506 Engine Model: Mercury Racing 525 EFI (525 HP) Outdrive: Mercruiser Bravo I XR Motor Serial Number: 0M953287 Outdrive Serial Number: 0W241549 FINANCING (AVAILABLE TO US BUYERS ONLY) CG Marine International works with several marine lenders to offer you the best rates available on the market, multiple financing options with low down payments and fast approvals. We use a convenient online and secure application process and can get you approved even if you do not have perfect credit history. Financing is available to US buyers only. Please contact us for information! DELIVERY / SHIPPING / EXPORT / CE CERTIFICATION We offer both NATIONWIDE DELIVERY and WORLDWIDE SHIPPING "Please contact us for delivery, shipping quotes and other questions" CALL FOR MORE INFORMATION TOLL FREE 1 (877)407-2628 OR ANDREAS (214) 728-3249 AUSTRALIA CANADA DELIVERY EUROPE Sydney Brisbane Melbourne Fremantle Competitive Transport Prices Bremerhaven, Germany Amsterdam Netherlands Gothenburg, Sweden Southampton, UK Drammen, Norway Kotka, Finland St. Petersburg, Russia Izmir, Turkey Istanbul, Turkey Shipping to Central America, South America, Middle East and other destinations also available! Please contact us for details. "EUROPEAN CUSTOMERS" WE WORK VERY CLOSELY WITH NOTIFIED BODIES AND CAN ASSIST WITH CE CERTIFICATION AND CE MODIFICATIONS TO COMPLY WITH Dealer Contact CG Marine International Toll Free: 1-877-407-2628 Phone: 1-214-728-3249 E-mail: [email protected] Ask Dealer A Question If you have a question, please call or complete the form below for a quick response. Name Email Phone Question(s) Below are a few of the other vehicles currently available from CG Marine International About Us - CG Marine International CG Marine International is located in Lewisville, Texas and is conveniently located within a short driving distance of Dallas Fort Worth International Airport. A Freshwater lake is within a few minutes of our location. We are a family owned boat dealership that specializes in the sale of clean Pre-Owned Freshwater Boats and International Boat Export. As a registered Boat and Trailer dealer in the State Of Texas and experienced exporter of boats, we can offer our clients reasonable and competitive deals to export your newly purchased yacht or boat with or without trailer to the location of your desire. We can provide specialized services for those in the market for a yacht or boat in US, Europe or Australia. Service, Full Detail, Shrinkwrap, Fiberglass Repairs, Canvas and Upholstery services available. We do it all! Terms and Conditions CG Marine International eBay Store Policies Bid with confidence! We take every measure to ensure accurate descriptions and pictures of our items. Boats and yachts are in stock at our location and may be sold in-store prior to end of auction on eBay. Items are also listed locally and Internationally and we reserve the right to end listing early. If you see a boat you are interested in, you are encouraged to call us at 1-877-407-2628 or 1-214-728-3249. By bidding on or purchasing an item, you are stating your acceptance to the following: Deposit & Payment Information, Financing The successful high bidder will submit a $500.00 usd (non refundable) deposit within 48 hours of the close of the auction to secure the vessel and full payment is required within 7 days. We work closely with several marine lenders and offer financing options with approved credit. Buyers must pre qualify before bidding by calling us at 1-877-407-2628. Financing is only available to buyers in the U.S.A Additional Fees and Taxes All boats are charged a $200.00 administrative office paperwork fee. We collect sales tax (6.25%) on boat and trailers for Texas residents plus Title and Registration fees ($150.00 USD). Out of state buyers are responsible for all state, county, city taxes and fees, as well as title/registration fees in the state that the vehicle will be registered. Shipping Buyers of boats and and or trailers are responsible for pick up or shipment of their purchase. CG Marine International will arrange for shipment upon request. Nationwide delivery is available as well as World wide shipping. Please contact us for a quote! Inspection Every effort has been made to accurately and fairly describe this vessel. CG Marine International has disclosed all information known about this vessel for auction. We welcome Marine Survey's and Inspections. The winning bidder ("buyer") is allowed an inspection period to verify that the item substantially complies with the published description. The time of inspection is allowed throughout the duration auction and after closing will be extended until time of final payment. Inspection and education on the product is the responsibility of the buyer. Sea trial (boat) will be provided to buyer if requested. Warranty Policy Please carefully read the item descriptions and ask any questions BEFORE placing your bid. Unless otherwise stated in the vessel description, the vessel is sold "As Is", "Where Is" with No Warranty, Expressed, Written or Implied. Manufacturer(s) warrantie(s) may still apply. Extended warranties may be available, please contact us for details. All boat sales are final. "Notice to Bidders" We reserve the right to cancel all bids and end an auction early should the vessel no longer be available for sale. Bid Retraction Bid retractions are not allowed nor will be recognized within 12 hours of auctions end. Seller will not be obligated to sell in the event of a late retraction. Successful Bidder The winning bidder will be contacted by CG Marine International via email or phone within 12 hours after the auction closes or he/she must contact CG Marine International within 12 hours to proceed with the deposit and final payment arrangements. Phone: 1-877-407-2628 or 1-214-728-3249 E-mail: [email protected] Non-Paying Bidder If the deposit is not received within 2 business days of the close of the auction or the balance is not paid in full within 7 days, we reserve the right to re-list the vessel or sell the vessel to the next highest bidder or another qualified buyer. Payment Methods Certified Cashier's Check, Wire Transfer, Cash in Person. We also accept Pay Pal (Deposit Only) Ad created by ecarlist.com. Call us at (800) 747-2983 to find out how ecarlist can service your dealership.

2005 Lavey Craft 29 NuEra Mid Cabin Open Bow MC/OB

$39,900

Lindsay, Oklahoma

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category -

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

Private Seller (405) 990-5535 Photos Photo 1 Photo 2 Photo 3 Photo 4 Photo 5 Photo 6 Photo 7 Photo 8 Photo 9 Photo 10 Photo 11 Photo 12 Photo 13 Photo 14 Photo 15 Photo 16 Photo 17 Photo 18 Close Request Information * Name First Name * Email Telephone (optional) Best Time to Contact Anytime Morning Mid-day Evening Question/Comments (optional) Shop Safely: Protect Your Money. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. Contact Seller 2005 Lavey Craft 29 NuEra Mid Cabin Open Bow MC/OB,2005 LaveyCraft 29 NuEra Mid Cabin Open Bow w/Custom triple axle trailer. This boat was a Bank Repo. The previous owner took the motor and drive, then let the boat go back to the bank. It was never abused or mistreated like most Repo's... Whoever took the motor and drive had full intentions of buying the boat back. (My theory) I have had plenty of these and this one is different. The guy plugged the gas hose and clamped it. Left all the clamps for the exhaust. Unplugged, unbolted, then zip tied the wires up nicely out of the way. Left the drive and tab pumps in place. He Left the bolts and brackets for the steering, shifter, throttle, engine hatch, etc... This boat is all there except motor and drive. The seats are super clean, engine compartment is Nice, Cabin carpet and seats look new, open bow carpet and seats look new, and the gel coat is BAD ASS!! It does have Mercury K planes, HP Gimble, Rockford Fosgate Stereo,Single Hydraulic Steering, and drop out bolster seats. The batteries were there, hooked up, and even half charged. Everything is there except the Motor and Drive. There is a bag full of manuals that includes the gps, etc... The pics have some condensation on the gauges that IS NOT there now. Boat comes with several NEW life vests, several ropes, and 10" bouys. I do have an XR Drive for the boat for $3500. I also have a 496HO with a whipple for $12,000. $1000 to install and hook up... see more pics on my website BullittMotorsports dot com These boats hardly ever come up for sale, and NEVER come up with no Power.... Check out the pics and judge for yourself.... Thanks, Derek 405-990-5535Keywords - Fountain Formula Baja Crownline Scarab Skater Black Thunder Checkmate Cigarette Cobalt Commander Conquest DCB Donzi Deep Impact Eliminator Nordic Hallet Howard HTM Hustler Force Offshore Kachina Larson LaveyCraft Magic Monterey MTI Outer Limits Pantera PowerPlay PowerQuest Profile Sunsation Sonic Sea Ray Sleekcraft Spectre Ultra Wellcraft Warlock Velocity $39900, 4059905535 Be sure: Get a boat history report|Finance this boat|Get an insurance quote|

100% Fresh Water, MINT, Mercury Racing 525 EFI, Only "48 Hrs", We Export

$65,000

The Colony, Texas

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category -

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619

El Cajon, California

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category -

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

We buy, sell, trade, tune-up, and repair all brands, years, sizes and lengths of outboard motors including: Johnson, Evinrude, Mercury, Sears, Wards, Mariner, British Seagull, SeaKing, Clinton, Elgin, Eska, Aero Marine, Gamefisher, Cruise'n Carry, Force, Ted Williams, and numerous others in addition to: Honda, Nissan, Suzuki, Tanaka, Tohatsu, Yamaha, etc. We also carry used propellers for most of the above brands (it is best to bring your old propeller or outboard with you for a perfect fit). We have some lower units, power tilt and trim units, various used electric starters and small electric trolling motors for sale (great for kids on a small boat on a lake). Turn-around time, for carry-in repairs is about 5 business days or less.(depending on parts availability). A larger motor attached to your boat usually takes 1 to 2 days. We also rebuild electric and pull-starters for all motors and we have a huge selection of used outboard motors for sale ranging from 1hp to 250hp. All our motors have been serviced and ready to go. We do remove and install large outboard motors of all sizes. Call Marty at 619 - 972 - 9998 to discuss your motor. If no answer, please leave a message and I will get back to you as soon as possible. Please repeat your phone number twice because sometimes it is not clear. Often we can help you fix your problem on the phone at no cost. (Please no E-mails or texts). When you bring it in, we will give your outboard motor a compression and spark test, diagnose your engine, and tell you what it needs in repairs to get it back in good running condition. We will repair your motor at your request, answer your questions and make suggestions. Most of our business is by recommendation of satisfied customers. We will do everything possible to make you one. If we do not have the size or brand of outboard that you are looking for, ask us to put your name on our list and we will call you if and when such an outboard arrives. ------------------------------------- USEFUL TIPS & INFORMATION: ------------------------------ (1) All 2 stroke outboard engines made after 1963 require a 50:1 mixture (3 ounces of 2 stroke outboard motor oil per gallon of gas). The actual amount is 2.6 ounces per gallon (a little extra won't hurt, but less can cause severe damage to your engine). NOTE: NEVER use 100:1 as recommended by some manufacturers. It will cause your engine to lose compression and die prematurely. The only lubrication that your engine gets is from the oil that is mixed with the gas, therefore use 50:1 to be safe. (2) Older outboards (pre 1963) require double the amount of oil 25:1 mixture (6 ounces per gallon), some require a 16:1 mixture (8 ounces per gallon), and BRITISH SEAGULL engines require a 10:1 mixture (13 ounces per gallon). (3) 4 stroke outboards do not need oil mixed with the gas. Make sure the crankcase is full of oil (check the dipstick). If by mistake you ran your 4 stroke with oil mixed with gas do not be concerned. It's OK. (4) Always carry a minimum amount of tools like screwdrivers (blade and Phillips head), socket set including a spark plug socket, combination wrenches, vice grips, pliers, fire extinguisher, drift or punch to drive out a broken shear pin, a can of WD - 40, and a spray can of carburetor cleaner for starting emergencies, and a few extra new spark plugs (pre-gapped) in case yours become fouled, a new gas filter if your gas line has one, a tire pressure gauge, a long magnet and (extra-long) forceps (in case you drop a nut or a bolt), and a small flashlight. AVOID USING STARTER FLUID because it contains ether (bad for outboards). Also carry a pair of extra shear pins and cotter pins (for most outboards less than 35hp). And also a few small hose clamps to tighten a loose or leaking fuel line (see tip #53 below). (5) For small outboards under 40hp, keep the clamp handle screws greased so they will not freeze up from oxidation or salt. (6) For all outboards that have remote steering, grease the steering cable often if you go out in salt water to prevent the cable from "seizing up" and causing a costly repair. (7) For all outboards, starting it several times a year keeps everything "limber". (8) For all outboards, flushing your outboard in fresh water for 5 minutes after each saltwater use will prevent costly cooling system repairs. NOTE: Do not flush your motor in saltwater. Use a barrel, or a garden hose hooked up to outboard "earmuffs" or any other device made for your motor. (9) If you carry your small outboard motor in the bed of a pick-up truck, always tie it down securely or it might break the tiller or shift handle by rolling. (10) For all outboards, check your propeller for broken blades or chunks missing from any blade. Operating any outboard with uneven prop blades will cause vibration and damage to seals and other internal parts of the lower unit. Also it is best to carry a spare prop. (Approx. cost $50 for a used one) . (11) Spray a thin coat of WD 40 all around the powerhead of your outboard. It will not make your engine run better, but it will protect it from rust and salt deposits. (12) For pull start outboards, check the entire pull cord for signs of wear. You wouldn't want to break a pull cord when you are out fishing. (13) For electric start outboards, always carry 2 fully charged batteries in case one battery loses its charge. (14) For small (tiller steering) outboards up to 35hp, attach a short chain, cable or heavy rope (one end attached to your outboard's clamp section, and the other end attached to the transom of your boat) as a safety to prevent your motor from falling overboard. (15) For all outboards, in the event that you remove the top cowling to check your engine, put the cowling down away from the edge of the boat since any wave might send the cowling to the bottom of the ocean or lake. It will be difficult to locate a replacement. (16) For all outboards, most engine failure is a result of overheating. Always check the temp. gauge (if you have one) or by watching the "pisser". If you see steam coming out, shut the engine to avoid costly damage. Check the bottom of the lower unit to see if you picked up some vegetation, or a plastic bag which may be blocking your water intake. If you do not find anything, you may have a bad impeller or a bad water-pump housing. The best thing to do is, try (if possible) to get towed back by any good natured person in the area, or call "VESSEL ASSIST". If you do not have "Vessel Assist Insurance", it will be quite costly. To avoid all of the above, it is best to change your impeller every 2 years or sooner. Whether you use your outboard frequently, occasionally, or just once in 2 years, it is time more than wear that ruins the impeller. (17) If you own a boat (any kind), always remember to replace the drain plug in the stern (rear) before you go out, or the boat will slowly fill with water. This event happens to everyone at some time. It is best to make a check list and review it before you launch. (Also keep a spare drain plug near the drain-hole in your boat in case the original one gets "lost"). (18) For portable outboards, it is best (if possible) to mount the motor on land before you launch in the ocean, because any wave can cause you to drop your motor while you are mounting it. (19) For outboards with an integral gas tank (one that is built-in to your engine), always carry extra fuel and a FUNNEL, or much of the extra gas will be lost when pouring to re-fill your integral tank. (20) For pull-start outboards and some bigger electric starting engines, you should have a separate emergency starter rope with a handle in case your starter spring fails, or the rope tears, or the electric starter or battery fails. (21) For all outboards, it is wise to remove the propeller after several times of use, in order to remove the fishing line that sometimes collects there. This fishing line can cut through the prop seal and cause the lower unit to leak oil and take in water. (a costly repair). (22) Gasoline should be fresh (not more than 6 months old). If you choose to keep it longer, add the correct amount of STABIL. (23) For all trailered boats, (large and small) you should check the transom of your boat for stress cracks (caused by the motor bouncing because of bumps in the road). To prevent such cracks you should get a TRANSOM SAVER which takes the weight off your boat's transom and transfers it to the trailer. (It costs about $75, and can save you thousands). (24) For all outboards, check the lower unit gear oil. It should be dark brown or black in color. Water or coffee-n-cream color in the oil indicates a lower unit seal problem. Smelly/stinky oil is usually OK as long as the color is good. The gear oil should be changed annually. (25) For outboards up to 35hp, if you cannot get the boat to plane, try adjusting the tilt pin. If the boat still rides with its "nose" high in the air, it is probably because you have too much weight in the rear or (you may possibly have the wrong length lower unit). One remedy is to install a "WHALE TAIL" on the cavitation plate of your outboard to cause a greater lift in the rear. (It costs about $50). (26) For all boat trailers, you should get a BEARING BUDDY for each wheel. Its purpose is to keep the whole hub and wheel bearings greased and to prevent any water from entering the bearing zone when you back into the water. Keep it full of grease (with a grease gun). Without BEARING BUDDYS you can expect the bearings to seize-up sometime when you are trailering. You might snap an axle, lose control of your trailer, drop your boat off the trailer onto the road, or worse. BEARING BUDDYS are inexpensive and easy to put on. They can be found at any boat shop or automotive parts place. (27) For outboard engines that are partially submerged in saltwater for 3 months or longer, you can expect the lower unit's aluminum housing to begin disintegrating (dissolving). If you cannot keep the lower unit out of the saltwater, you should attach some zinc anodes to the cavitation plate. They will help save your lower unit. Cost of anodes $5 - $55 at any boat shop. (28) For all do-it-yourselfers, it is best to put grease or NEVER SEIZE on all the bolts that you remove and replace, to prevent rust and salt build-up on those bolts. (29) For all outboards, service your engine regularly. To do so not only prevents problems, but allows you or your mechanic to grease all the bolts that are removed and replaced so that those bolts will come out easily "without breaking" in the future. (30) For electric start outboards, at the first sign of starter trouble, get the starter serviced before you take the boat out fishing. Be happy that it gave you a warning. (31) It would be wise to carry an extra fuel tank "quick connector" fitting that "snaps" into your engine fuel fitting. The "O" ring that they all have sometimes goes bad causing the engine to suck too much air instead of fuel. The engine will then stall or run poorly. Cost about $7 - $20. (32) We sell many large 2 stroke outboards to unfortunate people who relied on their automatic oil feeders known as "VRO". We suggest that you disconnect your VRO and add oil to your gas the old fashioned way. Your engine can become totally ruined within seconds when your VRO fails. Don't take our word for this suggestion. Ask other outboard mechanics for their opinions. . (33) It is suggested that you do not go full throttle on any outboard, because it over-stresses your motor. You should use about 95% of your maximum power. This can be accomplished by putting in a "stop" near the end of your throttle or just remembering to back off a little. This should save gas, wear and tear to your engine, thus making it last longer. (It is similar to driving your car with the gas pedal to the floor) (34) For outboards that use portable gasoline tanks (2-12 gallons), it is wise to use a good plastic or aluminum gas tank. (An aluminum tank is hard to find). The reason for using aluminum or plastic is because they will never rust. A rusty tank will probably clog your gas filter or carburetor when the rust-dust gets there. You should keep the plastic tank away from the direct rays of the sun which will cause it to become brittle and crack. You should replace your plastic gas tank after a few years as needed. (35) For all outboards, never store your outboard motor upside down or it may seize from the water residue that will drain into the powerhead causing the internal parts to rust. It is best to store it vertically. (36) For small outboards (carrying type), it is wise to run your motor out of fuel before you take it off your boat. The reason is to prevent the gas that remains in the carburetor from spilling onto the carpet in your car or trunk when you lie the motor down. (37) For outboards that are bolted to the transom of a fiberglass boat, make sure that MARINE silicone is used to coat the mounting bolts and to fill the mounting bolt holes. Apply the silicone liberally. This will prevent water from getting into the bolt holes and save your transom from rotting. Behind the fiberglass is wood. The wood will rot over time if water gets to it. (38) For all outboards, never run your engine "dry" (without water) or it will seriously damage your impeller within 1 minute. You might not realize this, and the next time you go out boating or fishing your engine may overheat. (39) For all trailerable boats, it is wise to attach a safety chain from the "pulling-eye" at the front of your boat to the area near the winch. If your pulling strap suddenly breaks, the safety chain will stop your boat from coming off the trailer in transit. (40) For all outboards, when you change the gear oil, be certain that when you replace the oil screws, that each of the 2 screws has a plastic (or composition) flat washer to prevent oil from leaking out and water from leaking in. Sometimes the washers get stuck in the "screw well". That is OK. Replace the screws and tighten securely. NOTE: If the flat washer is missing, DO NOT replace with an "O" ring. It will surely fail. (41) For all outboards, it is wise to replace the lower oil drain screw with a magnetic elongated drain screw. It will catch any small loose steel particles that break off within the gearcase, warning you that a problem may be developing there. Approx. cost for a magnetic oil screw $8.00 at any boat shop. (42) For all outboards, when changing gears from NEUTRAL to FORWARD, or from NEUTRAL to REVERSE, first lower your speed to minimum. Do not "ease" the shifter into place. Be decisive! Slowly shifting into forward or reverse will cause the gears to grind and lead to costly repairs. (43) For all sailboats with outboard motors, be certain that your outboard motor does not pick-up out of the water when the sailboat rocks. One remedy is to lower the engine mount (if possible), or get an outboard motor with a longer shaft, or else the impeller may become damaged and fail, causing your outboard to overheat. (44) For 2 stroke outboards, it is wise to add outboard motor oil at the same time that you purchase gas. Waiting until you get home increases the chance that you will forget to add oil. Running your outboard without oil can destroy your engine within 15 seconds (a very costly error). (45) For small 4 stroke engines, when transporting your outboard off the boat or when storing it, it is best to keep it in a vertical position. If you must lie it down, make sure that it lies according to the manufacturer's instructions. Lying it down on the wrong side will cause the engine oil to seep out. Always check the oil level with the dipstick before you start any 4 stroke outboard. If your engine oil level is low, you can add any standard automotive oil. (46) To tell if a boat leaks without taking it to a lake or ocean, use a garden hose to fill the bottom of the boat with water. If the water leaks out of the bottom, the boat surely has a leak and it may show you exactly where to repair it. (47) Be smart: DO NOT LEND YOUR OUTBOARD MOTOR OR MOTORBOAT TO ANYONE. If you do, don't be surprised by the motor problems you will have have when it is returned. (48) For uncovered boats left outside between usages, remove the drain plug so your boat will not fill up with rainwater. Check the drain hole periodically to remove leaves, dirt, etc. Be sure to replace the drain plug before you go boating. (49) For all boats that are trailered, it is unwise to tow even a short distance without one or 2 spare tires. If you get a flat tire and have no spare, you can expect a mostly ruined fishing or boating day. I recommend 2 spare tires because in the event that you use your spare because of a flat tire, you no longer have a spare. NOTE: Many people prevent weathering of their spares by carrying them in their trunk. (50) For all trailer users, it is wise to have a 12 volt tire inflator that plugs into your cigarette lighter or attaches to your car battery. If your trailer tires are low they could possibly blow-out or become flat. A 12 volt tire inflator will take a few minutes to restore the required air pressure etched on the tire by the manufacturer. Cost: $15-$40. (51) It is wise to make a check- list of all the things you will need when you go boating or fishing so you will not forget anything. Write it on thick stiff paper so it will not crumble and can be used repeatedly, and you can add to the list as needed. (52) For all outboards, if your motor runs in neutral but it will not move in forward or reverse, it might have broken shear pin, or a faulty propeller, or a loose shift rod. Do not assume that the gears are bad until you eliminate those 3 items. (53) For all outboards, check all gasoline hoses. Today's gasoline contains alcohol which hardens and /or deteriorates most old hoses. They rot from the inside and cause problems with your carburetor and /or sometimes cause a dangerous gas leak and loss of power. It would be wise to change the hoses annually to prevent problems. The cost of hoses is approx. $2-$10 at any automotive shop. Bring a sample with you. Make sure that the new hoses are alcohol resistant. (54) For all sailboats that are in slips and use outboard motors mounted onto an outside kicker bracket. When mounting or removing your outboard it is wise to maneuver your boat so that the outboard motor is over the floating dock. This can be accomplished by backing up your sailboat so that the motor is not directly above water, but above the walkway. The purpose is to prevent the outboard from falling out of your hands when mounting or dismounting it. Many people have dropped their outboards into the water by trying to mount them while leaning over the stern. (55) For all trailers, make sure that the ball is securely fastened to the coupler before pulling the trailer. Sometimes the coupler "looks" as though it is fastened, but it is not. The trailer may become undone and cause havoc on the road. It only takes a few seconds to carefully check it before you tow. COST: zero, SAVINGS: perhaps a life. (56) For all trailerable boats, always check your trailer lights. The cops are out there with spare tickets anxiously waiting to give them out. It is also safer if all your lights are working. Backing your trailer into a lake or saltwater will often ruin your trailer lights. The cost of repairing the lights is considerably less than the cost of a ticket and a loss of time at the courthouse. P.S. You can also get a ticket if your safety chain is not properly attached. (57) For all outboards it is wise to buy or make any device that will stop or slow down a thief who would like to steal your engine. If it takes a thief more than I minute to remove your engine, he will probably go elsewhere. It is best if everyone made their own device so that the thief will not be able to figure out a system for fast removal. (58) For all outboards, always carry a metal scraper, or stainless steel wool, or at least some emery cloth, or sandpaper. Sometimes your motor will not start because the battery cable terminals are dirty or corroded, or other wire terminals or ground connections may be corroded. The emery cloth or sandpaper may restore a clean connection to wherever it is needed. (59) For all outboards sitting idle for long periods of time, check the wires (not the spark plug wires) by shaking them with your fingers. If the insulation is brittle and crumbles you must replace the wires before starting your engine because they might short-out and cause costly damage to your electrical components. They can also cause a fire under the hood. This happens mostly to old Mercury outboards, but it can happen to any brand. (60) If you made a checklist, add this to it: Swing or crank the trailer jack wheel up and out of the way after attaching your hitch, or it might get damaged or break off when pulling the boat for as little as a few inches. (61) For small outboards (up to 25hp), if you notice that your outboard is not "pissing" water, don't panic. It might be a clogged "pee" hole or a clogged intake. Check if the engine is HOT. If it IS HOT shut it down immediately. If it is NOT HOT, push a wire (the thickness of a paper clip) into the "pee" hole. This might open the clogged passage. Also check the intake screen (at the bottom of the engine near the propeller) for debris. (62) For all outboards, if you remove your propeller (for any reason), before you put it back on, it is wise to grease the propeller shaft to prevent the propeller from "freezing" to the propeller shaft (because of salt and/or rust). If the propeller is already " frozen" and it will not come off (after you tried tapping it with a hammer and cussing), you may have to cut it off with an electric hand grinder or something similar. Sometimes a propane torch will burn out the rubber insert that holds the propeller together. Neither method is pleasant. A little grease now can save you a lot of time and money in the future. NOTE: Do not hit the propeller hard with a hammer or you might bend the propeller shaft which will cause costly internal lower unit damage when you go boating. (63) For all boat owners, it is advisable to purchase liability insurance for your vessel because you are responsible for any damage or injury that is caused by your boat or its wake. (64) For most gas tanks (metal and plastic), do not fill to the top with gas. Give the gasoline room to expand during hot weather, or the pressure inside the tank may cause the gas to overflow, the tank to rupture, distort, or generate small cracks at its top etc. Sometimes the cracks may not be visible, but during the rainy season (unknown to you) water may seep into the tank through those cracks. You will not be able to start your engine if there is water in the gas. (65) For all saltwater fishermen, it is wise to carry a thermos of HOT water or coffee in case you catch a sculpin and get stuck by its poisonous fins. Pouring HOT water on the injury will immediately neutralize the poison. Using cold water to stop the pain will make it worse. Ask your medical doctor. (66) For all outboard motors, if your motor runs great with the hood off, but runs terrible with the hood on, you may have an exhaust leak that is fouling your carburetor. Consult your mechanic for a remedy. (67) For all outboards, if you hear electrical arcing, pulsating or buzzing noises when it is running, you may have an electrical problem. A good way to investigate the problem is to run the outboard at night where it is dark and look below the hood. If you see sparks, clean and tighten the connections or change the part that is sparking as soon as possible because the sparks can start a fire. (68) For all boat trailers, if you notice that your boat is sagging to one side, the trailer may have a broken leaf in its set of springs. If so, get it fixed promptly before another leaf breaks because of the added stress. (69) For all outboards, check the water intake near the bottom of your motor for a broken or "plugged-up" screen. Clean or replace if broken. (70) For all boat, car, and truck owners, if you have a build-up of acid corrosion on your battery post, pour very hot water onto it. The corrosion will immediately vanish. (71) For outboards over 10 years old that have foam-rubber glued to the inside of the hood by the manufacturer, be sure to REMOVE ALL OF IT by any means because the foam will flake-off and plug up your carburetor. DO IT NOW!!! Also remove any dust, or leaves because your carburetor will suck any loose material into it like a vacuum cleaner. (72) For all outboards, it is wise to start and run your outboard at home for 10 minutes before you go out boating or fishing. Sometimes your motor will not start. You do not want to have trouble starting at the lake or ocean. It is best to deal with the problem on land. Be sure not to start it without water. (73) For all boat trailers, you will need a jack and a lug-wrench that fits your trailer's lug nuts. If they are rusty you may need a length of steel pipe to give you more leverage with the lug wrench. (It also helps to spray W-40 on everything during removal). (74) It is wise to often check the tire pressure in your spare tire because it may be very low. It can lose air, by just "sitting". (75) To determine if your (questionable) boat battery is good, it will need a "load test". For an accurate reading, you should charge-up your battery for about 2-3 hrs. A load test takes about 10 seconds. Most auto parts shops will load test your battery for free. (76) For all outboards, many of them take about 1-2 minutes to warm up. In that time your motor may stall, misfire, run-rough, etc. It may need more choke or less choke depending on how much gas is in the carburetor or carburetors (if you have more than one). Be sure that the "pump-up ball" is hard and the carburetor(s) is full of gas. (77) For all boaters, you can expect that at some time in the future your outboard motor will not start or re-start while you are out fishing. If you can afford it, it is wise to carry an auxiliary motor, or mount one on the stern. It should be between 4 hp and 25 hp depending on the size of your boat. It can also be used to save gas when you are slow-trolling for fish. (78) For all 2 stroke outboards, if you notice oil "leaking" near the foot of the motor, it is NORMAL because all the oil in the gas that went into the engine for lubrication must either "burn" or drip-out after the motor is shut down. It is wise to use an oil drip pan under the lower unit to prevent a stain on your driveway or elsewhere. (79) For users of small boats that use outboards, to avoid painful blisters bring along a pair of leather gloves along with oars in case your motor won't start and you have to row. NOTE: Most boaters are aware of the above suggestions, but not everyone. I hope that I may have saved someone the inconvenience of having a bad day on the water. If I think of any more tips, I will add them to the list. Perhaps you should make a copy of the tips as a reminder.