O Day 27 Sailboat Boats for sale

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1979 27' o'day sailboat

1979 27' o'day sailboat

$6,900

Seal Beach, California

Year 1979

Make O'day

Model Sailboat

Category -

Length 27.0

Posted Over 1 Month

This is a gorgeous 1979 27' o'day sailboat with good sails, & covers, new top deck paint, great running diesel engine, good, clean upholstery..must see if you want to sail!$6900 or best offer 562-900-4301

1986 O'DAY 27.2' SLOOP, CABIN CRUISER, WEEKENDER, SAILBOAT

1986 O'DAY 27.2' SLOOP, CABIN CRUISER, WEEKENDER, SAILBOAT

$16,500

Winter Park, Colorado

Year 1986

Make O'DAY

Model 27.2

Category Cruiser Motorcycles

Length LOA 26.11

Posted Over 1 Month

1986 ODAY 27.2 W/ custom dual axle trailer. This easy to sail, roomy, shoal draft family cruiser is in great shape and ready for her next adventures. Drawing only 2'11" with her wing keel, she can gunk hole where others would not dare. This boat is in excellent condition and she has a lot of gear, lots of upgrades and the boat has been well cared for. The O'Day 27 is a roomy vessel with standing headroom (6'2") in a cabin trimmed in teak. Powered with an inboard very reliable Westerbeke diesel with only 1145 hours. She has Garhauer genoa travelers and a 110 furling Jib on a Furlex furler. In 2014 she was updated with new paint job. A very large companionway and deck hatch brings the outside in and opens to a very generous salon, She is loaded with features and extras like a Edson wheel steering, bimini and full deck covers, Navico wheel autopilot, dual batteries set up with switch, Magma propane grill, , 2 burner alc. stove , s.s. sink, deep ice box with added insulation, aft 7' pilot berth, 7'salon settees with custom upholstery, a swing down bulkhead table hiding a custom dish, glassware and wine cupboard, pressurized water system, bath sink and electric head, macerator, holding tank, and too many more extras to list here. The deck stepped mast height is only 35 feet and comes with a custom raising system for trailering and storage. Lots of elbow room with her 9 foot beam. Weight 5,000 lbs. Ballast 1,930 lbs. Fresh Water 40 gals. Custom dual axle trailer. The current owner has had the boat in fresh water over twenty years. Hull: Fiberglass Speed: Cruising 5K Year: 1986 Maximum 7K Rig: Sloop rig Weight 5500 lb. 2'11" draft Wing Keel with 1870 lbs. of lead ballast Just painted hull! Stainless steel swim ladder mounted to molded swim platform Two opening cabin ports Translucent forward opening hatch Two each, bow and 2 ea. stern 7" Mooring cleats Teak Cabin top handrails Anchor locker at foredeck A couple can easily rig and sail this boat. Large gear and equipment locker in cockpit for fenders dock lines etc. MECHANICAL & ELECTRICAL: Apelco VXL 5150 VHF Radio with marine antennae and cockpit speaker 12 volt (DC) 110 volt (AC); battery selector Switch International running lights mounted on pulpits Custom made 110 & 12 volt circuit breaker panel 110/12v lighting in salon Electric bilge pump with counter Anchor 20lb. Plow with stainless anchor roller Tank minder system for fresh water and holding tank Onboard battery charge system & charge gauge New battery Shaft protector (donut style) PSS dry packing gland ENGINE: Inboard Westerbeke 10 hp. 2 cylinder FWC, 1" shaft, 2 blade prop, 1146 hours Recent low hour Hurst transmission 10 gallon aluminum fuel tank Quick Drain oil change system Racor Fuel filter System INTERIOR / MAIN SALON: Facing settees, Port Settee is 6'3, starboard in 5'6" Large quarter berth 7'6" long by 4' wide. Headroom 6'2" under companionway Custom Drop leaf bulkhead mounted table: folds to store when not in use. Custom dish, glass and wine rack cupboard hidden behind. Custom teak tool and parts cabinet Storage locker aft of port settee Cabin Curtains Kenwood cd player 6 stacker Polk audio speakers Teak cutting board, soap holder, towel rack, paper towel and toilet paper racks Brass barometer and clock Security system Brass halogen reading lights in v berth Red map light Gimbaled brass oil lamp V berth storage pouches GALLEY: Origo Stainless steel, two burner, gimbaled non pressurized alcohol stove Pressurized water pump with separate pressure tank Deep stainless steel sink 3.5 cubic foot ice box with customized added insulation Custom Teak food and dish lockers Custom storage / cutlery drawer Fresh and seawater faucets HEAD: Pressurized Water Jabsco electric Marine head with holding tank: Y valve and shore pump out fitting Storage Locker and medicine cabinet 30 gallon holding tank with macerator and diverter valves Hanging locker 25 gallon seamless water tank with deck fill SAILS & RIGGING: All sailing functions fully controllable from cockpit Furlex Jib Furling and Reefing system Model A Ullman 110 jib with Sunbrella UV Cover Ullman main large roach cut with 4 stays, 2 single line reefs and single line outhaul Custom Sunbrella mainsail cover Cruising designs Gennaker with Chute scoop and light wind pole Adjustable sliding spinnaker mount on mast Garhauer Rigid Boom Vang Adjustable boom topping lift Adjustable backstay 2 Barlow Self tailing winches Cabin top Mounted Lewmar # 15 halyard & mainsheet winch Genoa track with lead blocks Mast stepped on deck with custom hinged mast step Mast running lights Single line reef system leads to cockpit for quick reefing without going forward Mainsheet traveler on cabin top - custom Anodized aluminum mast and boom Internal Halyards COCK PIT AND STEERING: Edson Pedestal Steering System Navico wheel autopilot Si-Tex digital 4" instrumentation at the wheel in a pod. Includes wind, speed and depth Teak folding wheel table Teak drink and binoculars holder Signet depth gauge back up on bulkhead Signet bulkhead mounted compass Full custom cockpit cushions MISCELLANEOUS: CD player with cockpit and cabin speakers Cockpit Shower Outlet Dock lines & cleaning equipment & miscellaneous line Mooring pole CANVAS COVERS: Spray Dodger Winch Covers Wheel cover Mainsail Cover Cabin top Cover Custom shade cover TRAILER: Custom Built Twin Axle Trailer. Includes built in Mast raising system, sliding built in extra extension tongue for launching, front ladder, tire covers, utility box, and cables for launching

27' O'Day sloop - moving away from ocean - must sell soon :(

27' O'Day sloop - moving away from ocean - must sell soon :(

$5,500

New York, New York

Year 1975

Make O'Day

Model Sloop

Category Cruiser Boats

Length 27'

Posted Over 1 Month

Aquarius is easy to single hand, is great for day sailing yet sleeps five to six in four bunks (two in the fore-peak, one to two amidships, one on either side of the engine bay that has drop down sides for engine access). She's great for either a beginner or a seasoned sailor. O'Days are very popular, often raced, and there are several internet sites with information, forums and and offering of parts. I've had the pleasure of owning Aquarius for ten years now and I love her. We're relocating and after much procrastinating I realize that the ocean will just be too far way. The previous owners had her in Oyster Bay NY for many years. She is surprisingly fast yet very stable (2,230 lb lead keel) - although not suggested, we've powered through 6'-8' seas with her. She sails very close to the wind, is roomy with loads of storage, and you can stretch out on the 6'-6" cockpit seats with custom cushions (both with lockers beneath) or seat several. There's approximately 6' headroom. She has a 30 horse power Universal Atomic Four engine whereas most boats her size have either 9.9 HP outboards (which cavitate in lumpy water) or 7 to 13 HP diesels. She starts fast, runs clean. Uses about a gallon an hour. These are so popular that new parts are still made for it - even an optional hand crank! Here's one major source of new parts, service and info: moyermarine.com. She has a new jacket side plate from Moyer Marine. There's incredibly easy access to the engine from both sides and the front. There's even an engine "room" light. She has the original 12 gallon main gas tank along with the then optional 6 gallon plastic auxiliary tank (located on a shelf in the port side locker). Aquarius was made just before the cost of oil, gas and related resins sky-rocketed and caused many boat companies to skimp on construction and then to go out of business. Her hull is solid fiberglass - no balsa to worry about, and is about 3/8" thick. The prop is bronze. The prop shaft is bronze with a recent sacrificial zinc. I consider her the best year - 1975 had the best interior layout and has a lead ballasted fin keel with skeg mounted rudder (offering some protection to it). She has a 4' draft and nice freeboard which allows for usually dry sailing and calm guests.. My son worked at West Marine during school which gave us great discounts - she has new lifelines, new lazy jacks on the main boom, new main-sheet, new bronze thru-hull valves and Y-valve for the macerator toilet, new VHF radio, solar powered charger to keep her batteries charged between use, original Loran C, new coil and ignition parts, new water pump impeller, new engine exhaust pipe to the water muffler, new rubber diaphragm on her bilge pump, a cockpit tent in almost new shape, recent 12 volt receptacle, dual batteries with selector and gauge, tiller steering with nice looking new laminated wood tiller, old auto tiller, dual cockpit scuppers, cockpit cushions, anchor, teak and stainless steel swim ladder between the split stainless steel rear pulpit, auto-tiller, loads of storage, two sinks, cabin lights, electric macerator toilet between the fore peak and the main cabin with folding teak doors for privacy, curtains, cabin inclinometer, hanging locker, cockpit "table" (portable, that spans across the seats), storage under all the berths, a 12v hand vacuum, carpeting, a large ice box under a lid in the counter that drains to outside, alcohol stove plus a propane grill that attaches to hang off of the stern. There's a GPS/Depth sounder along with the original one that still works by a light revolving within its face and is entertaining to watch. There's roller furling, a wind vane and radio aerial atop the mast, stainless bow pulpit, a boom vang, a whisker pole for downwind sailing, genoa in reasonable shape, two jibs (one is older and a bit soiled), two mainsails (one also is older and a bit soiled). Two new stainless fishing rod holders, I've several life jackets, am/fm/cd stereo, full safety equipment including fire extinguishers, radar reflector ball, first aide kit, floodlight, Lifesling overboard rescue system, a flare gun, horn, boat hook etc. I can throw in a new medium sized dog life jacket if the buyer needs it. The upholstery is in very good condition. Loads of interior teak in good condition. The former owner gave us the original set of plastic dishes, silverware and ice tongs, and I'll give them to the new owner so they can stay with the boat. What I'm aware of: minor scars from dock battles etc, and a couple of soft deck spots which I was planning on repairing this season. The hardware & connections to the hull have been resealed over the years and should be checked. We had a problem with gunk in the main tank so we had it drained and we were planning on replacing it. We've been running off of the 6 gallon tank which has given us more than enough range. The sink hand pumps aren't working but I've a new electric pump to pressurize the system waiting to be installed (Whale offers refurbishment kits if you'd rather hand pump). The hatch boards are ready for replacement, last year there was minor weeping at the toilet - it may need tightening or a new gasket, and there's some minor rust here and there on the engine. Very little rain water weeps in from the ports - I do a yearly sealing but this year haven't gotten to it yet. She's a pretty dry boat. Aquarius has loads of spare parts including a new small holding tank for the toilet, new deck hardware along with a good-sized used winch for the cabin top to make single handling even easier, new electric water pump to pressurize the water system, new electric bilge pump - all ready to be installed. Obviously I love the boat - we weren't planning on moving from Brooklyn but the house that we've bought was an amazing deal in a historic small town and we realized that's where we want to semi-retire. She's out of the water in Gateway Marina (opposite Floyd Bennett Field) in Brooklyn open to the bay and to the ocean. The marina owes us a launch but it seemed to make sense to allow prospective buyers a look at her bottom. Here's more info: oday.sailboatowners.com, odayowners.com and iheartodays.com/model_oday_27 There was an ad in Craigslist for her but it was put in without my knowledge by a marina service employee. It was taken off. The boat is sold as is, and will need to be picked up or sailed from her location in Gateway Marina, Brooklyn, NY by the new owner. Storage and shipping arrangements are the responsibility of the purchaser. You may see the boat by appointment. She is fairly priced - serious offers only please. Thank you for looking. single handling, Pearson, Catalina, sloop, beginner boat, inexpensive sailboat, C&C, Hunter, Tartan, Morgan, Cal, Beneteau, Columbia, Macgregor, Irwin, Alberg, Vanguard, Islander, San Juan, Lightning, S2, Cape Dory, Hobie, Seidelmann, Tanzer, Island Packet, Herreshoff, Newport, West Wight Potter, Sunfish, Gulfstar, Laser, Ericson, Santana, Westerly, classic plastic, Contessa, stable, solid, best sailboat, day-sailer, daysailer, open water sailing, safe, high freeboard, cruiser, masthead sloop, dinghy, racer, catamaran, trimaran, diesel, sail, boat, fiberglass, awesome boat, catboat, rowboat, cheap sailboat, tender, anchor, coastal cruiser, Gulf, Bombay Clipper, Island Packet, Westerly, inboard, Universal, Universal Atomic Four, bronze prop and shaft, Nonsuch

1979 27' o'day sailboat

1979 27' o'day sailboat

$6,900

Long Beach, California

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category -

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

Beautiful 27' sailboat powered by good Sails & covers , & a Diesel engine.. The boat comes with a roller furling, good upholstery & running water in head & galley Also has a fresh water clean out system $6900 or best offer This ad was posted with the eBay Classifieds mobile app.

1984 O'Day 27 Beautifully maintained sailboat

1984 O'Day 27 Beautifully maintained sailboat

$8,900

Marion, Massachusetts

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category -

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

Contact the owner Tom @ 781-249-6884 or tjmmgm(at)aol(dot)com. Beautifully maintained 27 foot sailboat! Sleeps 5, kitchen, head, stereo, wheel, 2 sails, recently refurbished engine. In the water and ready to go! Sail away for the summer! Visit www.Boatsfsbo.com for the largest selection of "Boats For Sale By Owner" in the US.Call us @ 1-800-875-2628 for a free book value quote.

27' O'Day 27 1986

27' O'Day 27 1986

$5,100

Swansea, Massachusetts

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category -

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

BOAT OWNER'S NOTES: DESCRIPTION: 1986 ODAY 272 sailboat, documented vessel, on a mooring in New Bedford, Mass. I have owned this boat for 5yrs and because of its 3ft draft and wing keel it has allowed me to slip in small inlets and anchorages. FEATURES AND EQUIPMENT: The main sale is 2yrs old and the genoa is wrapped on a CDI roller furling, new jib sheets and 150ft of chain and line, are in working order. Two type 1 PFD'S along with a life sling that ties to the rail for MOB maneuvers. For long passages the captain can use the autopilot and if the sun gets to hot you can snap on the dodger. I have sailed solo for the most part but the cockpit can seat 4 people nicely. The galley sleeps 4 adults and with a 9ft beam it is very spacious. Cushions are not worn or ripped and teak interior makes it very cozy. There are two sinks, one next to a private head and the aft sink alongside an icebox, Thirty gallon water tank and fifteen gallon waste tank make a three day cruise extremely comfy, VHF marine radio along with speed and depth gauge are mounted in the cockpit. ENGINE: The 9.9 high thrust Yamaha OB has been maintained annually with fuel filter, water pump, spark plugs and grease. This cruiser has made a round trip cruise from RI to New Bedford, Mass every year and the OB motor has never failed. Mooring on Popes Island, N Bedford is included. Feel free to call Mike @ 774-526-3645

1977 O'Day Sailboat 25ft Centerboard

1977 O'Day Sailboat 25ft Centerboard

$2,600

Morehead City, North Carolina

Year 1977

Make Oday

Model -

Category -

Length 25.0

Posted Over 1 Month

1977 O'Day sailboat in very good condition for sale. 5 horsepower Honda long shaft outboard with very low hours. Outboard motor starts on the first pull and brings the boat to hull speed even against current. New high thrust prop on the motor. Includes original prop. Completely new shore power system with Blue Sea ELCI panel and GFCI receptacles. New DC panel and wiring. New standing rigging - replaced all 6 stays with new old stock. The 35ft mast has new wiring, a new Shakespeare antenna, new LED anchor light and new LED running light. Centerboard has a new pendant line. New Saturn bulkhead compass wired with light for night sailing. Hauled out completely scraped and painted this last November '14 with ecominder copper free ablative paint. Rudder has brand new heavy duty guntles, so the rudder is very secure. Working VHF radio. Comes with good mainsail, good hank-on jib. Porta potty in good condition included. Water system is a nice jabsco pump system with a new 25 gallon water tank. Through hull beneath galley replaced last November with a brand new covered flange ball joint with a mounting plate. Has all the anchors and lines you need. This boat is trailer-able. Ready to go! Is a very roomy boat would be great for weekend trips and overnights. Draws 27" with the board up and 5' down. Equipment List:: Anchors VHF radio 50ft shore-power cord 10" brass Lewmar winch handle New water tank New shore power New compass new Shakespeare antenna new masthead light new LED running light new Groco flange valve through-hull Recent Improvements: $250 - Standing rigging replaced with new old stock from another O'Day (in excellent shape). $100 - Rudder guntles have been replaced top and bottom and bolted through the hull - this rudder won't come off. $250 - Through hull beneath galley replaced with Groco flange ball valve, so the one through hull below the waterline is very secure. $250 - New water tank and pressurized water system. $700 - Hauled scraped and painted November 2014. New Saturn bulkhead compass. $500 - New shore power Blue seas AC panel and system with ELCI and GFCI receptacles. New DC panel and wiring. $175 - New masthead light, running light and Shakespeare antenna on top of mast, mast was rewired. $40 - New Pendant Line for centerboard. $200 - New bulkhead Saturn Compass. $100 - New DC panel and wiring including 2 good batteries. $60 - 3 good anchors. Located in Adam's Creek across the Neuse from Oriental Day sailer sailboat liveaboard

27' O'Day 27 Sailboat 1975 Atomic 4, Nice Must Sell!

27' O'Day 27 Sailboat 1975 Atomic 4, Nice Must Sell!

$5,990

Brooklyn, New York

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category -

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

Nice older 1975 O'Day 27 sailboat that has been well maintained. Atomic 4 diesel runs well using portable tank - main tank needs cleaning. 6 sails, GPS, VHF. Come take a look - start sailing this season. ***Call Brad McCabe 516-232-6395***

CATALINA 27 Sailboat in Great Condition! Honda O/B - Excellent Sails - Annapolis

CATALINA 27 Sailboat in Great Condition! Honda O/B - Excellent Sails - Annapolis

$6,999

Arnold, Maryland

Year 32767

Make Catalina

Model 27

Category Sloop Sailboats

Length 26.9

Posted Over 1 Month

CATALINA 27 1980 Standard Rig Classic User-Friendly Design, Spacious and VERY CLEAN - Day-sail, Cruise, or Race! LOA 26'10" / BEAM 8'10" / HEADROOM 6'1" / DRAFT 4' / BERTHS 6 / HEAD / SINKS 2BEAUTIFUL Teak and Mahogany wood inside and out. Exterior teak is sanded and ready to be oiled or varnished. Decks are solid with no soft spots.All Sails recently surveyed: Main Sail rated GOOD + Roller Furling Genoa rated EXCELLENTCruising Spinnaker is practically new with sock!1996 Honda 15hp 4-Stroke Outboard with alternator. Also has bracket that takes motor completely out of the water - tuned up and professionally serviced.Interlux 2-Year Hard Anti-Fouling Bottom Paint end of last Summer.All Windows and frames removed, cleaned, and re-bedded with new gaskets/caulk last Summer. Major chainplates removed, checked and re-bedded also; other chainplates upgraded.Rigid Boomvang / Adjustable Backstay and Jib Blocks / NORTH Main w/ jiffy reefing / Furlex roller furling / Compass / Depth Finder110V (shore power) and 12V electrical system with NEW starting and house batteries / VHF / 2 Anchors / Bimini / Cockpit Cushions / 2-Burner alcohol stove / Icebox / Newer cushions (settees) Enclosed Head w/tank and pumpout - Freshwater operation and China bowlCabin leaks a little water when it rains - they all do at this age (at least I am honest about it)!Price will increase as I complete the few projects that remain. Boat is being sold as is.

1980 O'Day 30SL

1980 O'Day 30SL

$15,500

Swampscott, Massachusetts

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category -

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

1980 O'Day 30SL. An original or even a beautifully restored sailboat elevates marine transit to - An art form it is an indelible part of the American experience a sailboat- Like this one combines power with sleekness beauty with mystery there- Is a whole history to the vessel and there are very few things left in this- World that will tickle your nostalgic bones and where true craftsmanship- Is so appreciated than in a beautiful boat like this 1980 O'Day 30SL. Her name is Starbug and she is in excellent condition the boat has been- Well maintained for many years. Owned by our family for three years our- Children are growing up and we are now interested in moving to a smaller- Newer vessel. She comes with all standard accessories such as life jackets- Flares VHF radio anchor roller furler GPS and 2 new group 27 batteries . She motors at 6 to 7 knots she is a very stable sailing boat with excellent- Speed in 10 to 20 knot winds a spacious interior with enclosed an head- Enclosed V berth and dinette layout blue cushioned seating awaits you- And a wealth of fine hardwood craftsmanship and smooth joinery covers- the interior there is ample storage and the accommodations are inviting. The boats 45 cubic inch 2 cylinder 16 HP Universal diesel engine has been - Professionally maintained each and every Spring and Fall has been utterly - Reliable. This 1980 O'Day 30SL has been a wonderful cruising vessel for us- And is now ready to drop in the water having had its new bottom painted - For a summer of fun sailing and for entertaining all your friends and family. Boat located in Swampscott MA . Financing Warranty and Nationwide Delivery Available To All Qualified Buyers

1986 O'Day 27 Foot Salboat w/ 4 Stroke Outboard, Wheel and Pedestal

1986 O'Day 27 Foot Salboat w/ 4 Stroke Outboard, Wheel and Pedestal

$8,500

Oyster Bay, New York

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category -

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

O'DAY 1986 MODEL 272 SAILBOAT Great day sailer - on the hard in Port Washington, NY includes launching in the water. She is a mast head sloop w shoal draft wing keel, and Edson pedestal wheel steering and Doyle Stack Pak. LOA: 27.0 LWL: 22.92 Beam: 9.0 Draft: 2.92 Water Tank: 25 gallons Displacement: 5,375 Ballast: 1,930 Engine: Yamaha 4 stroke outboard gas engine Designed by Hunt & Associates and Built by O'Day Corp (USA). First built 1985 and last built 1989. Vessel is equipped with West Marine VHF radio, Ritchie pedestal mount compass. Galley has Kenmore microwave, 2 burner Origo 4000 cooktop, storage. Sleeps four, enclosed head, two single settee berths and doubles forward and aft. Doyle sails, main sail and roller furling Genoa. Photos: www.sellyourboatnow.shutterfly.com

1982 S2 8.5A 28 foot Sailboat with Inboard Yanmar Diesel - In Racine Wisconsin

1982 S2 8.5A 28 foot Sailboat with Inboard Yanmar Diesel - In Racine Wisconsin

$2,750

Racine, Wisconsin

Year 1982

Make S2

Model 8.5A

Category Cruiser Motorcycles

Length 28.0

Posted Over 1 Month

**** PLEASE NOTE: Because of the relatively low BUY IT NOW price, payment will be due within 24 hours via paypal. I will send you a paypal invoice after a successful "BUY IT NOW" or an accepted offer. Please only buy or offer if you have positive feedback. Your buy it now or offer constitutes a binding agreement to purchase so please ask questions BEFORE clicking "BUY IT NOW" or making an offer. After receiving your payment I will overnight you the title or meet you in person depending on timing and my availability.**** Very Nice S2 8.5A (28ft) for sale in Racine Wisconsin. I'm expecting a second child soon and really don't want to sell this excellent great lakes cruiser. Clean and clear Wisconsin title.Tiller steering. (always my preference)Inboard Yanmar diesel is extremely clean and fuel efficient. Recent full Yanmar service checkout since boat was last launched.Furling headsail in good shape. Newer mainsail in excellent shape.New Raymarine autopilot professionally installed. Shore power and long power cable. Halyards in good shape.New marine head and holding tank (never used). Chainplates recently professionally rebedded by boatyard. Interior in excellent shape.Solid fiberglass hull. All tabbed in joinery in excellent shape. Cored deck with NO soft spots. Very large cockpit.Includes steel cradle as well. I looked at everything in this size and price range in the lower half of lake Michigan for two years and this is the nicest boat I could find by leaps and bounds. Solid turnkey value. Launch is all ready paid for with the boat yard. You can be in the water tomorrow. No better deal can be found on solid and ready to sail Great Lakes cruiser with a clean inboard diesel - it is just time for me to move it along. Currently out of the water at Racine Riverside Marina in Racine, WI. Summer storage is paid through the end of this month and a launch is included in the purchase. If you chose not to launch until next season the storage rates at the Marina for winter are extremely reasonable and the pre-paid launch will still be yours come next summer. Here is a Review from "Practical Sailor" S2 8.5 MeterThe 8.5 is good for cruising the coasts in comfort and style--as long as you like the modern look.When Leon Slikkers founded S2 Yachts in 1973, much of the attention to detail that had previously characterized Slickcraft powerboats—Slikkers’ earlier boatbuilding venture— traveled with him to the new boatbuilding company. In the 13 years S2 sailboats were in production (S2 still makes powerboats), the company produced a variety of modern cruising designs from the board of Arthur Edmunds, all characterized by longish fin keels, freestanding spade rudders, straight sheerlines, and a staggering variety of draft options and cockpit locations. In the early ’80s, S2 reached more for the performance market with the Grand Slam series of small boats, and the 10.3 “offshore racer-cruiser.” These higher performance boats were designed by Scott Graham and Eric Schlageter, well known for their MORC and smaller IOR designs.The S2 8.5 is a 28-footer cast in the company’s traditional mold. Her hull dimensions, sail area, displacement, and general design characteristics put her square in the middle of the modern 28-footers such as the Tanzer 8.5, Newport 28, O’Day 28, and the Pearson 28.The boat’s styling is conventionally modern. She has a fairly straight sheer, fairly high freeboard, and low, raked cabin trunk with dark tinted flush ports. Production of the 8.5 ran from 1981 to 1983. The boat was replaced by the similar S2 8.6, which continued until S2 stopped making sailboats in 1986.ConstructionThe hull of the S2 8.5 is a solid hand layup. Glasswork is excellent, and is noted by owners as one of the main considerations in buying the boat. Gelcoat quality is excellent.Slight roving printthrough is evident, but it is not objectionable. Minor hard spots are visible in the topsides, probably caused by the attachment of interior furniture and bulkheads.The deck molding is cored with end grain balsa, giving a solid feel underfoot as well as providing reasonable insulating properties.S2’s hull-to-deck joint is the basic type that we would like to see adopted throughout the industry. The hull molding has an inward-turning flange, onto which the deck molding is dropped. The joint is bedded in flexible sealant, and through bolted on six inch intervals by bolts passing through the full length slotted aluminum toerail. The joint is also through bolted across the stem.All deck hardware is properly through bolted, although pulpits, cleats, and winches merely use nuts and washers on the underside of the deck, rather than the aluminum or stainless steel backing plates we prefer.Another feature of the hull-to-deck joint is a heavy, semi-rigid vinyl rubrail at the sheerline, quite aptly termed a “crash rubrail” by S2. This will go a long way toward absorbing the shock of the inevitable encounters with docks and the other hard objects that seem to be attracted to the topsides of the typical sailboat. Although this rail is black when the boat is new, it had dulled to a chalky gray on older S2’s we examined.The builder advertises “bronze seacocks on all through hull fittings.” These are not traditional tapered plug seacocks, but are ball valves mounted directly to through hull fittings. A proper seacock—whether it uses a ball valve or a tapered plug—has a heavy flange to allow through bolting to the hull. This is an important safety feature. Should a valve seize, it may become necessary to apply a great deal of leverage to the handle in order to open or close the valve. The deeply threaded through hull stem can easily break under these conditions, and more than one boat has been lost in this manner.We also suggest that seacocks be installed on the cockpit drain scuppers and the bilge pump outlet, both of which may be under water while the boat is sailing. Light air performance would benefit by the fairing in of the through hull fittings, particularly the head intake and discharge, both of which are far enough forward to have a significant effect on water flow past the hull.Ballast is a 3,000 pound lead casting, epoxied inside a hollow keel shell. We prefer an external lead casting bolted to the hull for its shock-absorbing qualities and ease of repair. This preference was reinforced recently when we examined an old Bristol 27 just sold by a friend. The surveyor noticed dampness near the bottom of the leading edge of the keel, which showed slight external damage. Probing the loose putty revealed some abrasion of the glass keel molding. In order to sell the boat, it was necessary to grind away a large portion of the glass at the front of the keel, dry out the ballast, and reglass the lead—a job that took several days of work and cost our friend a fair chunk of money.Much of the boat’s interior structure is plywood, glassed to the hull. Fillet bonding is neat and workmanlike with no rough edges to be found.Chainplates are conventional stainless steel flat bar, bolted to bulkheads and plywood gussets in the main cabin. These are properly backed with stainless steel pads. Due to the fact that the hull is lined throughout with a carpet-like synthetic material, it is not possible to examine the bonding of the chainplate knees to the hull. The stemhead fitting is a stainless steel weldment, through bolted to the deck and hull and reinforced inside the hull with a stainless steel gusset to prevent deflection of the deck from the pull aft of the headstay. We’d like to see a metal backup pad behind this fitting rather than the washers which are used.General construction is thoughtful and well executed, with excellent glasswork, a strong and simple hull-to-deck joint, and reasonably installed hardware and fittings.Handling Under PowerAlthough some early models of the 8.5 used a seven horsepower BMW diesel, the 1982 version employs an eight horsepower Yanmar. These small Yanmars are quite impressive, light in weight and far smoother than the company’s older rockcrushers.Because of the high freeboard and considerable windage of the 8.5, the standard engine is the absolute minimum power plant for the boat. Recognizing this fact, the company offered a 15 horsepower, two-cylinder Yanmar as an option. For another 75 pounds and $1,150, we would want this option on the boat if the ability to get places under power is a real consideration.The extra fuel consumption of the larger engine will scarcely be noticed. The 18 gallon aluminum fuel tank will probably give a range under power of over 250 miles—more than adequate for a 28 foot cruising boat.The fuel tank is located under the cockpit and is securely mounted and properly grounded. There is an easily reached fuel shut off between the engine and tank. Unfortunately, the fuel fill is located in the cockpit sole. Spilled diesel oil turns even the best fiberglass nonskid into an ice skating rink. Fuel fills should be located on deck, where spills can be efficiently washed away.Engine access is via a large removable panel on the inboard face of the quarterberth. This panel lacks any kind of handhold to make it easily removable, which will discourage regular checking of the engine oil. The top companionway step also removes for access, but it’s a long reach to the dipstick.There is no oil pan under the engine. It will be necessary to be very careful when changing oil to keep the bilge clean. We have yet to see anyone change oil and filters on a boat engine without spilling something.With the quarterberth panel removed, access for routine service is excellent. The quarterberth has remarkable headroom over, so that the mechanic will not feel like a trapped spelunker after a half hour of work. Engine removal will require some joinerwork disassembly.Handling Under SailThe S2 8.5 is no slug under sail. Her PHRF rating of 174 to 180 compares very favorably to other boats of her size and type. The Sabre 28, for example, has a rating of 198. The Pearson 28 about 195, and the O’Day 28 about 198.Part of this is no doubt due to the fact that the standard sails on the boat come from the North loft. While North’s OEM sails may not be the vertical cut Mylar-Kevlar wonders that adorn custom boats, they’re a lot better than most.S2 now uses Hall spars. The simple masthead rig is extremely clean, with airfoil spreaders and internal tangs. The boom features an internal outhaul and provision for two internally-led reefing lines, with cam cleats at the forward end of the boom.The deck-stepped mast is mounted in a stainless steel deck plate incorporating plenty of holes for the attachment of blocks. Halyards and Cunningham lead aft along the cabin house top to a pair of Lewmar #8 winches. Lewmar #16s are optional, but hardly necessary.The main is controlled by a six-part Harken rig mounted on the end of the boom, and a Kenyon traveler mounted on the aft cockpit coaming. This will work fine with the tiller-steered version of the boat. With wheel steering, the mainsheet is likely to be a nuisance to the helmsman.Because of the end-of-boom sheeting, a boom vang will be essential for full mainsail control. Ironically, the boat’s drawings show almost mid-boom sheeting, with the traveler mounted on the bridgedeck at the forward end of the cockpit. This is probably a better arrangement, although it heavily loads the center of the boom and requires more sheeting force.Owners of 8.5s have little but praise for the interior of the boat. The cabin has a wide feeling, created by pushing everything outboard. The “chart area” on the plan is a myth, as far as we can tell.Despite the fact that the shrouds are set well in from the rail, the boat lacks inboard headsail tracks. Rather, you are limited to snatch blocks shackled to the toerail track. A six-foot piece of track set inboard of the rail would be a useful addition.Standard headsail sheet winches are two-speed Lewmar #30s. Options include both larger winches and self-tailers, both of which are worth considering for either racing or cruising. The cockpit coamings are wide enough for mounting larger primaries and secondaries.The high-quality rig and sails add to the price of the S2, but they are additions well worth the cost.Deck LayoutThe deck layout of the 8.5 is clean and functional, with no toe stubbers to catch you unawares. There are two foredeck mooring cleats, but no bow chocks. The necessity to lead an anchor line well off the boat’s centerline, coupled with high freeboard forward, is likely to result in a boat which sails around on her anchor or mooring. The 8.5 has a pair of wide stainless steel chafing strips at the bow which will greatly protect the deck from the chafe of the anchor line.The 8.5’s foredeck anchor well is one of the best we’ve seen. It is shallow—just deep enough to hold an anchor and adequate rode. There are double scuppers, which offer less likelihood of clogging. The lid is held on by a full-length piano hinge, and there is a positive latch.The shallow locker well above the waterline means that water is less likely to enter through the scuppers, which can be a real problem with a deep anchor well. When the bow pitches into waves, a deep anchor well can fill with water, and if the scuppers clog with debris, you can find yourself sailing around with several hundred pounds of extra weight in the worst possible position. There is no provision for securing the bitter end of the anchor rode, but a big galvanized eyebolt installed in the well by the owner will solve that one.The running lights leave something to be desired. Their location at deck level just aft of the stem makes them vulnerable to damage when handling ground tackle. We much prefer an international style bicolor mounted on the pulpit, another two feet off the water: easier to see, and out of the way. Wiring for the running lights is exposed in the anchor well, and should be secured out of the way.A recessed teak handrail runs the full length of the cabin trunk, serving the dual function of heavy weather handhold and cabin trim piece. Its shape makes it far easier to oil or varnish than the conventional round handrail, although the wide, flat section seems somewhat awkward after years of grabbing round rails.The 8.5’s cockpit is the maximum size we’d want to see on a boat of this size. The T-shape is designed to accommodate the optional wheel steerer, yielding a somewhat odd layout for the tiller-steered version. A bench seat spans the aft end of the cockpit. Although this makes good seating in port, we doubt that you’d want anyone sitting there under sail: too much weight in the end of the boat. It does make a natural helmsman’s seat for wheel steering.The engine controls and instrument panel are also located at the aft end of the cockpit, and are basically inaccessible to the helmsman of a tiller-steered version.There are two lifting lids in the aft cockpit bench, giving access to a cavernous space under the cockpit. To be useful, dacron bags should be fitted to the inside of these lockers. Then, they’ll be handy stowage for spare sheets and blocks.There are comfortable contoured seats along each side of the cockpit, with a huge locker under the port seat. Although plywood pen boards somewhat separate this locker from the engine space under the cockpit, it would be far too easy for deeply piled junk to get knocked over the board and into the engine. This locker should be partitioned into smaller spaces unless it is to be used exclusively as a sail locker.The battery boxes, fitted at the forward end of the locker, could benefit from plywood or fiberglass lids to keep battery acid off gear which might find its way onto the batteries. The box is designed to take two batteries—one battery is standard—stored in plastic containers. A single lid covering the whole box would be more efficient.The huge cockpit will accommodate up to six for sailing, and eight for in-port partying. The cockpit seat bottoms are contoured, and the cockpit coamings slope outboard for more comfortable seating. However, the seats are both too narrow and too short for sleeping.The forward end of the cockpit is protected by a narrow bridgedeck. However, the cockpit coatings extend a full foot above the level of the bridgedeck, To block the companionway to the level of the top of the coamings will require leaving two of the three drop boards in place when sailing.Although there is moderate taper to the sides of the companionway, making it easier to remove the drop boards, it is still necessary to lift each board about five inches before it can be removed. This is far safer than many tapered companionways, where boards practically fall out if you look at them wrong. The companionway slide is one of the best we’ve seen. It’s a contoured piece of acrylic fitted with a convenient grabrail. It slides easily in extruded aluminum channels, and is fitted with a fiberglass storm hood. As on many boats, the aft cabin bulkhead slopes forward, rendering it impossible to leave the drop boards out for ventilation when it rains.BelowdecksOwners consistently praise the interior design and finishing of S2 sailboats. From looking at the 8.5, it’s pretty easy to see why.There are no exposed interior fiberglass surfaces except the head floor pan molding. The hull and cabin overhead are lined with a carpet-like synthetic fabric. While this will undoubtedly cut down on condensation, we at first wondered how this fabric would hold up over time. Inevitably, the hull liner and even the overhead will get wet. In freshwater areas, this is no problem. The water will eventually evaporate. In salt water, however, wet fabric never seems to dry. Salt draws moisture like a magnet draws steel. Since first seeing this boat, however, we’ve had good experiences with the fabric. Be sure, however, to get a good wet-or-dry vacuum to keep it clean.Interior layout is fairly conventional, with Vberths forward, and immediately aft, a full width head. The head can be closed off from both the forward cabin and the main cabin with solid doors—a real luxury in a boat this size. There is a large hanging locker in the head, and reasonable storage space for toilet articles.The word for the main cabin is “wide,” with the settees pushed as far outboard as they can go. Décor is a little heavy on the teak for our taste, but it is one of the better coordinated interiors we have seen. S2 had a good interior decorator.A fold-down dining table seats four. When folded against the bulkhead, it is held in place by a single latch, which makes us nervous.Neither settee is full length. The foot of the port settee runs under the galley counter, making it long enough for sleeping, although your feet may feel a little claustrophobic in the tiny footwell.The starboard settee is an unusual configuration. The aftermost 12" of the settee folds up to form an arm rest, leaving a gap between the end of the settee and the head of the quarterberth.Inexplicably, this gap is referred to on the accommodation plan as a “charting area,” although there is neither a standard nor an optional chart table. It’s sort of like the designer ran out of energy before completing the interior design.Over the non-existent “charting area” is the best electrical panel we’ve seen on a 28 foot boat. The panel has a locking battery switch, battery test meter, and a panel with room for 14 circuit breakers, although only half are installed on the standard boat.The space is welcome, since with the proliferation of marine electronics most electrical panels are woefully inadequate.Most quarterberths tend to induce claustrophobia. That of the 8.5 is more likely to exacerbate any tendencies you might have to agoraphobia. At last, a quarterberth which will not give you a concussion when you sit bolt upright in the middle of the night after your neighbor drags down on you in a wind shift.The standard main cabin sole is carpet-covered fiberglass. For an additional $325, teak and holly was available for the traditionalist. We’d want it. Unfortunately there is no access to the bilge in the main cabin. None. This is inexcusable, and could be dangerous. A few hours with a saber saw should solve this rather basic problem.The galley is workable and accessible, with no awkward posturing required to do the dishes. The sink gets an A+. It is a full nine inches deep, is large enough to take a frying pan, and mounted close to the centerline.In contrast, the icebox gets a C-. It is larger than normal on a boat of this size, but it drains to the bilge, has a poorly insulated top, and a tiny, uninsulated hatch without a trace of a gasket. Boo.Because of limited counter space, the two burner Kenyon alcohol stove is mounted athwartships, rather than fore and aft. This means that the stove cannot be gimballed, and that it is necessary to reach across the inboard burner to reach the outboard one. Given the fact that countertop gimballed stoves are usually dangerous, the lack of gimballing doesn’t bother us much. What does bother us is that if you want to upgrade the stove to something more functional, the limited space allocated will stretch your ingenuity.A fold down table at the end of the galley counter gives additional counter space, but it must be left up in order to use the port settee for sleeping.Roominess, excellent execution, and good color coordination are trademarks of the interiors of all S2s, and the 8.5 fits well into this enviable tradition.ConclusionsThe S2 8.5 is a good boat for cruising the Great Lakes or any coast in comfort and a certain amount of style. Her appearance may be a little modern for traditionalists, with her straight sheer and European-style cabin windows.Pricey? Yes, but when you look at the things that go into the boat—the rig, good sails, and a comfortable, well finished interior—the price may seem a bit less painful. You still pay for what you get.

1987 Catalina 272

1987 Catalina 272

$13,000

Omaha, Nebraska

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Posted Over 1 Month

1987 Catalina 272 Boat is located in Omaha,Nebraska.Please contact the owner @ 402-399-9079.1987 Sailboat O'Day 272 & Performance dual axel galvanized trailer. 18 HP Yanmar,2-cylinder Diesel Roller furling Jib/Genoa, Dodger, and tiller steering, with a winged Keel/Shoal draft. No blisters on hull. Last 14 years in fresh water only. Sleeps 4 , short wave Radio, many more extras. Trailer: Performance dual axel factory build, galvanized with hydraulic surge brakes and has an extension for easy launching, 4 new tires in 2011. Asking $13,000 or best offer for all. Contact Klaus at 1-402-399-9079 or email: Make: Catalina Model: 272 Length: 27 Dealer: BoatsFSBO.com ID: 217947 Ad provided by BoatingBay

Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619

Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619

$1

El Cajon, California

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Posted Over 1 Month

We buy, sell, trade, tune-up, and repair all brands, years, sizes and lengths of outboard motors including: Johnson, Evinrude, Mercury, Sears, Wards, Mariner, British Seagull, SeaKing, Clinton, Elgin, Eska, Aero Marine, Gamefisher, Cruise'n Carry, Force, Ted Williams, and numerous others in addition to: Honda, Nissan, Suzuki, Tanaka, Tohatsu, Yamaha, etc. We also carry used propellers for most of the above brands (it is best to bring your old propeller or outboard with you for a perfect fit). We have some lower units, power tilt and trim units, various used electric starters and small electric trolling motors for sale (great for kids on a small boat on a lake). Turn-around time, for carry-in repairs is about 5 business days or less.(depending on parts availability). A larger motor attached to your boat usually takes 1 to 2 days. We also rebuild electric and pull-starters for all motors and we have a huge selection of used outboard motors for sale ranging from 1hp to 250hp. All our motors have been serviced and ready to go. We do remove and install large outboard motors of all sizes. Call Marty at 619 - 972 - 9998 to discuss your motor. If no answer, please leave a message and I will get back to you as soon as possible. Please repeat your phone number twice because sometimes it is not clear. Often we can help you fix your problem on the phone at no cost. (Please no E-mails or texts). When you bring it in, we will give your outboard motor a compression and spark test, diagnose your engine, and tell you what it needs in repairs to get it back in good running condition. We will repair your motor at your request, answer your questions and make suggestions. Most of our business is by recommendation of satisfied customers. We will do everything possible to make you one. If we do not have the size or brand of outboard that you are looking for, ask us to put your name on our list and we will call you if and when such an outboard arrives. ------------------------------------- USEFUL TIPS & INFORMATION: ------------------------------ (1) All 2 stroke outboard engines made after 1963 require a 50:1 mixture (3 ounces of 2 stroke outboard motor oil per gallon of gas). The actual amount is 2.6 ounces per gallon (a little extra won't hurt, but less can cause severe damage to your engine). NOTE: NEVER use 100:1 as recommended by some manufacturers. It will cause your engine to lose compression and die prematurely. The only lubrication that your engine gets is from the oil that is mixed with the gas, therefore use 50:1 to be safe. (2) Older outboards (pre 1963) require double the amount of oil 25:1 mixture (6 ounces per gallon), some require a 16:1 mixture (8 ounces per gallon), and BRITISH SEAGULL engines require a 10:1 mixture (13 ounces per gallon). (3) 4 stroke outboards do not need oil mixed with the gas. Make sure the crankcase is full of oil (check the dipstick). If by mistake you ran your 4 stroke with oil mixed with gas do not be concerned. It's OK. (4) Always carry a minimum amount of tools like screwdrivers (blade and Phillips head), socket set including a spark plug socket, combination wrenches, vice grips, pliers, fire extinguisher, drift or punch to drive out a broken shear pin, a can of WD - 40, and a spray can of carburetor cleaner for starting emergencies, and a few extra new spark plugs (pre-gapped) in case yours become fouled, a new gas filter if your gas line has one, a tire pressure gauge, a long magnet and (extra-long) forceps (in case you drop a nut or a bolt), and a small flashlight. AVOID USING STARTER FLUID because it contains ether (bad for outboards). Also carry a pair of extra shear pins and cotter pins (for most outboards less than 35hp). And also a few small hose clamps to tighten a loose or leaking fuel line (see tip #53 below). (5) For small outboards under 40hp, keep the clamp handle screws greased so they will not freeze up from oxidation or salt. (6) For all outboards that have remote steering, grease the steering cable often if you go out in salt water to prevent the cable from "seizing up" and causing a costly repair. (7) For all outboards, starting it several times a year keeps everything "limber". (8) For all outboards, flushing your outboard in fresh water for 5 minutes after each saltwater use will prevent costly cooling system repairs. NOTE: Do not flush your motor in saltwater. Use a barrel, or a garden hose hooked up to outboard "earmuffs" or any other device made for your motor. (9) If you carry your small outboard motor in the bed of a pick-up truck, always tie it down securely or it might break the tiller or shift handle by rolling. (10) For all outboards, check your propeller for broken blades or chunks missing from any blade. Operating any outboard with uneven prop blades will cause vibration and damage to seals and other internal parts of the lower unit. Also it is best to carry a spare prop. (Approx. cost $50 for a used one) . (11) Spray a thin coat of WD 40 all around the powerhead of your outboard. It will not make your engine run better, but it will protect it from rust and salt deposits. (12) For pull start outboards, check the entire pull cord for signs of wear. You wouldn't want to break a pull cord when you are out fishing. (13) For electric start outboards, always carry 2 fully charged batteries in case one battery loses its charge. (14) For small (tiller steering) outboards up to 35hp, attach a short chain, cable or heavy rope (one end attached to your outboard's clamp section, and the other end attached to the transom of your boat) as a safety to prevent your motor from falling overboard. (15) For all outboards, in the event that you remove the top cowling to check your engine, put the cowling down away from the edge of the boat since any wave might send the cowling to the bottom of the ocean or lake. It will be difficult to locate a replacement. (16) For all outboards, most engine failure is a result of overheating. Always check the temp. gauge (if you have one) or by watching the "pisser". If you see steam coming out, shut the engine to avoid costly damage. Check the bottom of the lower unit to see if you picked up some vegetation, or a plastic bag which may be blocking your water intake. If you do not find anything, you may have a bad impeller or a bad water-pump housing. The best thing to do is, try (if possible) to get towed back by any good natured person in the area, or call "VESSEL ASSIST". If you do not have "Vessel Assist Insurance", it will be quite costly. To avoid all of the above, it is best to change your impeller every 2 years or sooner. Whether you use your outboard frequently, occasionally, or just once in 2 years, it is time more than wear that ruins the impeller. (17) If you own a boat (any kind), always remember to replace the drain plug in the stern (rear) before you go out, or the boat will slowly fill with water. This event happens to everyone at some time. It is best to make a check list and review it before you launch. (Also keep a spare drain plug near the drain-hole in your boat in case the original one gets "lost"). (18) For portable outboards, it is best (if possible) to mount the motor on land before you launch in the ocean, because any wave can cause you to drop your motor while you are mounting it. (19) For outboards with an integral gas tank (one that is built-in to your engine), always carry extra fuel and a FUNNEL, or much of the extra gas will be lost when pouring to re-fill your integral tank. (20) For pull-start outboards and some bigger electric starting engines, you should have a separate emergency starter rope with a handle in case your starter spring fails, or the rope tears, or the electric starter or battery fails. (21) For all outboards, it is wise to remove the propeller after several times of use, in order to remove the fishing line that sometimes collects there. This fishing line can cut through the prop seal and cause the lower unit to leak oil and take in water. (a costly repair). (22) Gasoline should be fresh (not more than 6 months old). If you choose to keep it longer, add the correct amount of STABIL. (23) For all trailered boats, (large and small) you should check the transom of your boat for stress cracks (caused by the motor bouncing because of bumps in the road). To prevent such cracks you should get a TRANSOM SAVER which takes the weight off your boat's transom and transfers it to the trailer. (It costs about $75, and can save you thousands). (24) For all outboards, check the lower unit gear oil. It should be dark brown or black in color. Water or coffee-n-cream color in the oil indicates a lower unit seal problem. Smelly/stinky oil is usually OK as long as the color is good. The gear oil should be changed annually. (25) For outboards up to 35hp, if you cannot get the boat to plane, try adjusting the tilt pin. If the boat still rides with its "nose" high in the air, it is probably because you have too much weight in the rear or (you may possibly have the wrong length lower unit). One remedy is to install a "WHALE TAIL" on the cavitation plate of your outboard to cause a greater lift in the rear. (It costs about $50). (26) For all boat trailers, you should get a BEARING BUDDY for each wheel. Its purpose is to keep the whole hub and wheel bearings greased and to prevent any water from entering the bearing zone when you back into the water. Keep it full of grease (with a grease gun). Without BEARING BUDDYS you can expect the bearings to seize-up sometime when you are trailering. You might snap an axle, lose control of your trailer, drop your boat off the trailer onto the road, or worse. BEARING BUDDYS are inexpensive and easy to put on. They can be found at any boat shop or automotive parts place. (27) For outboard engines that are partially submerged in saltwater for 3 months or longer, you can expect the lower unit's aluminum housing to begin disintegrating (dissolving). If you cannot keep the lower unit out of the saltwater, you should attach some zinc anodes to the cavitation plate. They will help save your lower unit. Cost of anodes $5 - $55 at any boat shop. (28) For all do-it-yourselfers, it is best to put grease or NEVER SEIZE on all the bolts that you remove and replace, to prevent rust and salt build-up on those bolts. (29) For all outboards, service your engine regularly. To do so not only prevents problems, but allows you or your mechanic to grease all the bolts that are removed and replaced so that those bolts will come out easily "without breaking" in the future. (30) For electric start outboards, at the first sign of starter trouble, get the starter serviced before you take the boat out fishing. Be happy that it gave you a warning. (31) It would be wise to carry an extra fuel tank "quick connector" fitting that "snaps" into your engine fuel fitting. The "O" ring that they all have sometimes goes bad causing the engine to suck too much air instead of fuel. The engine will then stall or run poorly. Cost about $7 - $20. (32) We sell many large 2 stroke outboards to unfortunate people who relied on their automatic oil feeders known as "VRO". We suggest that you disconnect your VRO and add oil to your gas the old fashioned way. Your engine can become totally ruined within seconds when your VRO fails. Don't take our word for this suggestion. Ask other outboard mechanics for their opinions. . (33) It is suggested that you do not go full throttle on any outboard, because it over-stresses your motor. You should use about 95% of your maximum power. This can be accomplished by putting in a "stop" near the end of your throttle or just remembering to back off a little. This should save gas, wear and tear to your engine, thus making it last longer. (It is similar to driving your car with the gas pedal to the floor) (34) For outboards that use portable gasoline tanks (2-12 gallons), it is wise to use a good plastic or aluminum gas tank. (An aluminum tank is hard to find). The reason for using aluminum or plastic is because they will never rust. A rusty tank will probably clog your gas filter or carburetor when the rust-dust gets there. You should keep the plastic tank away from the direct rays of the sun which will cause it to become brittle and crack. You should replace your plastic gas tank after a few years as needed. (35) For all outboards, never store your outboard motor upside down or it may seize from the water residue that will drain into the powerhead causing the internal parts to rust. It is best to store it vertically. (36) For small outboards (carrying type), it is wise to run your motor out of fuel before you take it off your boat. The reason is to prevent the gas that remains in the carburetor from spilling onto the carpet in your car or trunk when you lie the motor down. (37) For outboards that are bolted to the transom of a fiberglass boat, make sure that MARINE silicone is used to coat the mounting bolts and to fill the mounting bolt holes. Apply the silicone liberally. This will prevent water from getting into the bolt holes and save your transom from rotting. Behind the fiberglass is wood. The wood will rot over time if water gets to it. (38) For all outboards, never run your engine "dry" (without water) or it will seriously damage your impeller within 1 minute. You might not realize this, and the next time you go out boating or fishing your engine may overheat. (39) For all trailerable boats, it is wise to attach a safety chain from the "pulling-eye" at the front of your boat to the area near the winch. If your pulling strap suddenly breaks, the safety chain will stop your boat from coming off the trailer in transit. (40) For all outboards, when you change the gear oil, be certain that when you replace the oil screws, that each of the 2 screws has a plastic (or composition) flat washer to prevent oil from leaking out and water from leaking in. Sometimes the washers get stuck in the "screw well". That is OK. Replace the screws and tighten securely. NOTE: If the flat washer is missing, DO NOT replace with an "O" ring. It will surely fail. (41) For all outboards, it is wise to replace the lower oil drain screw with a magnetic elongated drain screw. It will catch any small loose steel particles that break off within the gearcase, warning you that a problem may be developing there. Approx. cost for a magnetic oil screw $8.00 at any boat shop. (42) For all outboards, when changing gears from NEUTRAL to FORWARD, or from NEUTRAL to REVERSE, first lower your speed to minimum. Do not "ease" the shifter into place. Be decisive! Slowly shifting into forward or reverse will cause the gears to grind and lead to costly repairs. (43) For all sailboats with outboard motors, be certain that your outboard motor does not pick-up out of the water when the sailboat rocks. One remedy is to lower the engine mount (if possible), or get an outboard motor with a longer shaft, or else the impeller may become damaged and fail, causing your outboard to overheat. (44) For 2 stroke outboards, it is wise to add outboard motor oil at the same time that you purchase gas. Waiting until you get home increases the chance that you will forget to add oil. Running your outboard without oil can destroy your engine within 15 seconds (a very costly error). (45) For small 4 stroke engines, when transporting your outboard off the boat or when storing it, it is best to keep it in a vertical position. If you must lie it down, make sure that it lies according to the manufacturer's instructions. Lying it down on the wrong side will cause the engine oil to seep out. Always check the oil level with the dipstick before you start any 4 stroke outboard. If your engine oil level is low, you can add any standard automotive oil. (46) To tell if a boat leaks without taking it to a lake or ocean, use a garden hose to fill the bottom of the boat with water. If the water leaks out of the bottom, the boat surely has a leak and it may show you exactly where to repair it. (47) Be smart: DO NOT LEND YOUR OUTBOARD MOTOR OR MOTORBOAT TO ANYONE. If you do, don't be surprised by the motor problems you will have have when it is returned. (48) For uncovered boats left outside between usages, remove the drain plug so your boat will not fill up with rainwater. Check the drain hole periodically to remove leaves, dirt, etc. Be sure to replace the drain plug before you go boating. (49) For all boats that are trailered, it is unwise to tow even a short distance without one or 2 spare tires. If you get a flat tire and have no spare, you can expect a mostly ruined fishing or boating day. I recommend 2 spare tires because in the event that you use your spare because of a flat tire, you no longer have a spare. NOTE: Many people prevent weathering of their spares by carrying them in their trunk. (50) For all trailer users, it is wise to have a 12 volt tire inflator that plugs into your cigarette lighter or attaches to your car battery. If your trailer tires are low they could possibly blow-out or become flat. A 12 volt tire inflator will take a few minutes to restore the required air pressure etched on the tire by the manufacturer. Cost: $15-$40. (51) It is wise to make a check- list of all the things you will need when you go boating or fishing so you will not forget anything. Write it on thick stiff paper so it will not crumble and can be used repeatedly, and you can add to the list as needed. (52) For all outboards, if your motor runs in neutral but it will not move in forward or reverse, it might have broken shear pin, or a faulty propeller, or a loose shift rod. Do not assume that the gears are bad until you eliminate those 3 items. (53) For all outboards, check all gasoline hoses. Today's gasoline contains alcohol which hardens and /or deteriorates most old hoses. They rot from the inside and cause problems with your carburetor and /or sometimes cause a dangerous gas leak and loss of power. It would be wise to change the hoses annually to prevent problems. The cost of hoses is approx. $2-$10 at any automotive shop. Bring a sample with you. Make sure that the new hoses are alcohol resistant. (54) For all sailboats that are in slips and use outboard motors mounted onto an outside kicker bracket. When mounting or removing your outboard it is wise to maneuver your boat so that the outboard motor is over the floating dock. This can be accomplished by backing up your sailboat so that the motor is not directly above water, but above the walkway. The purpose is to prevent the outboard from falling out of your hands when mounting or dismounting it. Many people have dropped their outboards into the water by trying to mount them while leaning over the stern. (55) For all trailers, make sure that the ball is securely fastened to the coupler before pulling the trailer. Sometimes the coupler "looks" as though it is fastened, but it is not. The trailer may become undone and cause havoc on the road. It only takes a few seconds to carefully check it before you tow. COST: zero, SAVINGS: perhaps a life. (56) For all trailerable boats, always check your trailer lights. The cops are out there with spare tickets anxiously waiting to give them out. It is also safer if all your lights are working. Backing your trailer into a lake or saltwater will often ruin your trailer lights. The cost of repairing the lights is considerably less than the cost of a ticket and a loss of time at the courthouse. P.S. You can also get a ticket if your safety chain is not properly attached. (57) For all outboards it is wise to buy or make any device that will stop or slow down a thief who would like to steal your engine. If it takes a thief more than I minute to remove your engine, he will probably go elsewhere. It is best if everyone made their own device so that the thief will not be able to figure out a system for fast removal. (58) For all outboards, always carry a metal scraper, or stainless steel wool, or at least some emery cloth, or sandpaper. Sometimes your motor will not start because the battery cable terminals are dirty or corroded, or other wire terminals or ground connections may be corroded. The emery cloth or sandpaper may restore a clean connection to wherever it is needed. (59) For all outboards sitting idle for long periods of time, check the wires (not the spark plug wires) by shaking them with your fingers. If the insulation is brittle and crumbles you must replace the wires before starting your engine because they might short-out and cause costly damage to your electrical components. They can also cause a fire under the hood. This happens mostly to old Mercury outboards, but it can happen to any brand. (60) If you made a checklist, add this to it: Swing or crank the trailer jack wheel up and out of the way after attaching your hitch, or it might get damaged or break off when pulling the boat for as little as a few inches. (61) For small outboards (up to 25hp), if you notice that your outboard is not "pissing" water, don't panic. It might be a clogged "pee" hole or a clogged intake. Check if the engine is HOT. If it IS HOT shut it down immediately. If it is NOT HOT, push a wire (the thickness of a paper clip) into the "pee" hole. This might open the clogged passage. Also check the intake screen (at the bottom of the engine near the propeller) for debris. (62) For all outboards, if you remove your propeller (for any reason), before you put it back on, it is wise to grease the propeller shaft to prevent the propeller from "freezing" to the propeller shaft (because of salt and/or rust). If the propeller is already " frozen" and it will not come off (after you tried tapping it with a hammer and cussing), you may have to cut it off with an electric hand grinder or something similar. Sometimes a propane torch will burn out the rubber insert that holds the propeller together. Neither method is pleasant. A little grease now can save you a lot of time and money in the future. NOTE: Do not hit the propeller hard with a hammer or you might bend the propeller shaft which will cause costly internal lower unit damage when you go boating. (63) For all boat owners, it is advisable to purchase liability insurance for your vessel because you are responsible for any damage or injury that is caused by your boat or its wake. (64) For most gas tanks (metal and plastic), do not fill to the top with gas. Give the gasoline room to expand during hot weather, or the pressure inside the tank may cause the gas to overflow, the tank to rupture, distort, or generate small cracks at its top etc. Sometimes the cracks may not be visible, but during the rainy season (unknown to you) water may seep into the tank through those cracks. You will not be able to start your engine if there is water in the gas. (65) For all saltwater fishermen, it is wise to carry a thermos of HOT water or coffee in case you catch a sculpin and get stuck by its poisonous fins. Pouring HOT water on the injury will immediately neutralize the poison. Using cold water to stop the pain will make it worse. Ask your medical doctor. (66) For all outboard motors, if your motor runs great with the hood off, but runs terrible with the hood on, you may have an exhaust leak that is fouling your carburetor. Consult your mechanic for a remedy. (67) For all outboards, if you hear electrical arcing, pulsating or buzzing noises when it is running, you may have an electrical problem. A good way to investigate the problem is to run the outboard at night where it is dark and look below the hood. If you see sparks, clean and tighten the connections or change the part that is sparking as soon as possible because the sparks can start a fire. (68) For all boat trailers, if you notice that your boat is sagging to one side, the trailer may have a broken leaf in its set of springs. If so, get it fixed promptly before another leaf breaks because of the added stress. (69) For all outboards, check the water intake near the bottom of your motor for a broken or "plugged-up" screen. Clean or replace if broken. (70) For all boat, car, and truck owners, if you have a build-up of acid corrosion on your battery post, pour very hot water onto it. The corrosion will immediately vanish. (71) For outboards over 10 years old that have foam-rubber glued to the inside of the hood by the manufacturer, be sure to REMOVE ALL OF IT by any means because the foam will flake-off and plug up your carburetor. DO IT NOW!!! Also remove any dust, or leaves because your carburetor will suck any loose material into it like a vacuum cleaner. (72) For all outboards, it is wise to start and run your outboard at home for 10 minutes before you go out boating or fishing. Sometimes your motor will not start. You do not want to have trouble starting at the lake or ocean. It is best to deal with the problem on land. Be sure not to start it without water. (73) For all boat trailers, you will need a jack and a lug-wrench that fits your trailer's lug nuts. If they are rusty you may need a length of steel pipe to give you more leverage with the lug wrench. (It also helps to spray W-40 on everything during removal). (74) It is wise to often check the tire pressure in your spare tire because it may be very low. It can lose air, by just "sitting". (75) To determine if your (questionable) boat battery is good, it will need a "load test". For an accurate reading, you should charge-up your battery for about 2-3 hrs. A load test takes about 10 seconds. Most auto parts shops will load test your battery for free. (76) For all outboards, many of them take about 1-2 minutes to warm up. In that time your motor may stall, misfire, run-rough, etc. It may need more choke or less choke depending on how much gas is in the carburetor or carburetors (if you have more than one). Be sure that the "pump-up ball" is hard and the carburetor(s) is full of gas. (77) For all boaters, you can expect that at some time in the future your outboard motor will not start or re-start while you are out fishing. If you can afford it, it is wise to carry an auxiliary motor, or mount one on the stern. It should be between 4 hp and 25 hp depending on the size of your boat. It can also be used to save gas when you are slow-trolling for fish. (78) For all 2 stroke outboards, if you notice oil "leaking" near the foot of the motor, it is NORMAL because all the oil in the gas that went into the engine for lubrication must either "burn" or drip-out after the motor is shut down. It is wise to use an oil drip pan under the lower unit to prevent a stain on your driveway or elsewhere. (79) For users of small boats that use outboards, to avoid painful blisters bring along a pair of leather gloves along with oars in case your motor won't start and you have to row. NOTE: Most boaters are aware of the above suggestions, but not everyone. I hope that I may have saved someone the inconvenience of having a bad day on the water. If I think of any more tips, I will add them to the list. Perhaps you should make a copy of the tips as a reminder.