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45 HUNTER Center Cockpit 2006 -- Absolutely the BEST Example for Sale Today!!!
$249,000
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Category -
Length 45.0
Posted Over 1 Month
Agua Therapy is a 2006 'Hunter 45cc' fractional rigged center cockpit sloop. She has had one owner from new, who took ownership in 2007. She is fully equipped for independent self sustaining short, or long term live aboard cruising, as her current owners have done over the past three years. She has a proven track record as an efficient Ocean passage maker taking her owners safely across the Atlantic from Europe to the Caribbean in January 2013 and cruising up and down the Caribbean island chain and East coast USA since then.She is easily handled by a couple or, even single handed, as all sail control lines are led into the cockpit where two electric winches do the hard work for the crew. There is no need to leave the safety of the cockpit unless rigging the cruising chute for light air sailing. Modern 'Raymarine' electronics takes care of the navigation as the auto pilot steers you to your next port of call or island destination. Alternatively, the 'Hydrovane' wind steering system can be used in place of the auto pilot to conserve electrical power and, has the added advantage of being totally independent of the on-board steering and rudder allowing it to be used as an emergency steering system in the unlikely event of a main steering failure.Agua Therapy has the benefit of 'in-boom' furling and, along with the electric winches makes raising, reefing and stowing the sail away easy, all from the safety of the cockpit. Close quarters maneuvering is made easy by the use of the 'Side Power' bow thruster.The installed 'Gori' folding propeller has the ability to be put into 'overdrive' mode giving an increase of boat speed of approximately 1 -- 1.5 kts for the same engine revolutions without overdrive. This improves both economy and efficiency of the propulsion system.Electrical power on board is maintained and supported by two 140 Watt Solar panels through their dedicated charge controller, backed up by an 8 Kw generator and the 80 Ahr alternator on the engine. The 650 Ahr house battery bank is charged and controlled by two 40 Amp 'Xantrex Truecharge II' battery chargers configured to deliver up to 80 Amps or, as a duel redundant pair in the event of one of the chargers failing.Fresh water should never be a problem as the installed water maker can produce up to 9.5 gallons of water per hour, making cruising only dependent on personal endurance and provisions carried. To support that, a full size front opening refrigerator is installed, along with a half size front opening ready use freezer. A larger countertop opening freezer is installed for bulk frozen food. The electronic control for this unit allows the temperature to be controlled as a freezer, or a refrigerator.Personal comfort when alongside or, when running the generator, can be provided by using either one of the two 1600 btu reverse cycle air conditioning units. One unit supplies the fwd cabin and the salon and, the other unit supplies the aft cabin and the salon.Long distance communications is not an issue as this boat is equipped with an 'ICOM' SSB radio for weather information, radio net and safety communications. Along with its 'Pactor Modem' and subscription package (not included), email communication and weather information is available virtually anywhere in the world.This sailing vessel has been regularly hauled for below the waterline inspection, cleaning and re-painting and was last hauled out in June 2015 for bottom scrub, rub down, anti fouling, hull polish and wax. As the cutlass bearing was showing very slight signs of wear, the opportunity was taken to replace it during this haul-out.'Agua Therapy' has been maintained to the very highest of standards by its current, and only owner and is being presented for sale in an exceptional condition. She is fully equipped and ready to go at literally, the turn of a key, only requiring a new owner and provisions before heading to her next destination.Having researched the global market for other Hunter 45 Center Cockpit boats, we can honestly say that 'Agua Therapy' appears to be the most well equipped, and probably the best maintained and cleanest cruising boat in its class being offered for sale anywhere in the world today. SHE IS PRICED TO SELL AND ALL OFFERS WILL BE CONSIDERED.*** For more info, or to view her, please call: (954) 559-5879 John @ Big Wave Marine Group
2011 Harpoon RIB 6.8 M wide-body, 130 hp E-Techextra-wide 22'
$29,000
Fernan Lake Village, Idaho
For sale is our one-year-old extra-wide 22' RIB that has lots of seating and storage and is fully outfitted with GPS, stereo, ski tow pole, powder-coated aluminum arch, 80-gallon built-in stainless-steel fuel tank, stern swim ladder, galvanized trailer with brakes, and sun cover. This boat is ready-to-go for diving, skiing/tubing, fishing, ocean adventure, joy riding, or wherever trips. The tubes are built of UV-resistant PVC fabric with 6 independent air chambers. Its fiberglass moderate deep-V hull provides a nice compromise of being tough enough to wave jump, yet flat enough for fast planning speeds: 40 mph max and nice cruising in the low 30s. The Evinrude new-generation two-stroke E-tech engine has great "out of the hole torque", exceeds EPA standards and runs smooth, quiet, and economically. (I prefer this engine over the heavier Hondas and Yamahas...). Evinrude 130 HP E-Tech and all top quality gear, including: Lowrance brand 7" Color GPS/Depth/Fish finder with in-hull, flush-mount transducer and Nema 2K engine data monitoring, Fusion brand enclosed I-pod docking waterproof 200 Watt stereo system, Horizon brand VHF radio with arch-top whip antenna, 1000 Cranking amps starter battery, Gel cell deep-cycle house battery, Blue Sea Systems automatic isolation/charging relay setup, Teleflex No-Feed-Back steering, CMS Hydraulic engine jack plate (for optimizing engine height/position for rough water, shallow water, and/or maximum speed and fuel economy), Danforth-style anchor with rope/chain, auto bilge pump, full cover, safety gear, and lifting bridle. Everything is in Excellent shape and the engine has low hours on it. Also included is a Minn Kota engine mount electric trolley motor with batteries & controller. The boat has been in Coeur d' Alene a Fresh Water Lake, for the last three years. If shipping or trucking from Coeur d'Alene ID is required, I can assist with making those arrangements, but actual costs will be paid by buyer. Contact me through eBay with any questions I am open to discuss any details about this great boat. Normal 0 false false false EN-US X-NONE X-NONE
2006 Manitou Osprey 24 Fishing Pontoon Evinrude E-TEC 115 Trailer We Export
$14,378
Chapin, South Carolina
Listing by Auction123.com copyright Auction123, Inc.Doss Marine - 1720 Chapin Rd Chapin, SC 29036 - 803-345-100106 Manitou Osprey 24 Click here for an XL view of the above Image PrevNext 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 About CLICK PLAY TO WATCH A VIDEO OF THIS BOAT 2006 MANITOU OSPREY 24' FISH PONTOON EVINRUDE ETEC 115 ONLY 98 HOURS FRESH SERVICE TANDEM TRAILER FINANCING AVAILABLE RUNS PERFECT WE CAN SHIP ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD THANKS FOR LOOKING AT OUR 2006 24' MANITOU OSPREY 4 POINT FISH PONTOON BOAT. THIS IS A LOCAL FRESHWATER BOAT. THE INTERIOR IS IN VERY GOOD CONDITION. THE VINYL IS CLEAN AND SOFT AND LOOKS GREAT. THE FLOOR IS VERY NICE. THE EXTERIOR OF THE BOAT IS NICE. THIS BOAT HAS A STEREO AS WELL AS A BIMINI TOP. THE MOTOR IS AN EVINRUDE ETEC 115 WITH ONLY 98 HOURS. IT HAS BEEN INSPECTED BY OUR MECHANIC AND IS IN EXCELLENT CONDITION. THE COMPRESSION IS EQUAL ON ALL CYLINDERS AND WITHIN FACTORY SPECS. IT HAS ELECTRIC START AS WELL AS TRIM AND TILT. IT JUST HAD A SERVICE TO INCLUDE FRESH LOWER UNIT LUBE AND A WATER PUMP IMPELLER. OVERALL THIS IS A VERY NICE BOAT THAT IS IN VERY GOOD CONDITION, IT RUNS EXCELLENT AND HAS NO KNOWN ISSUES. THE TRAILER SHOWN IN THE PICTURES IS INCLUDED. IT IS TANDEM AXLE TRAILER WITHOUT BRAKES AND IS IN VERY GOOD CONDITION. WE WILL MAKE SURE IT HAS GOOD TIRES AND THE LIGHTS WORK SO YOU CAN HAVE A SAFE TRIP HOME. FINANCING IS AVAILABLE TO RESIDENTS OF THE USA. WE HAVE SEVERAL NATIONAL LENDER AND THEY OFFER RATES AS LOW AS 5.9% WITH TERMS AS LONG AS 10 YEARS. THE RATE AND TERM WILL BE BASED ON YOUR CREDIT AND NOT EVERYONE WILL QUALIFY. IF YOU REQUIRE FINANCING YOU NEED TO BE PRE APPROVED BEFORE THE END OF THE AUCTION. CLICK HERE FOR OUR FINANCE APPLICATION If you have any questions about this or any of my other auctions please feel free to contact me via e-mail or you can call us at (803)345-1001. Thank you for your interest and I look forward to hearing from you. SHIPPING FOR A BOAT LIKE THIS TYPICALLY RUNS $1.25 A MILE WITHIN THE US. SHIPPING TO EUROPE IS AROUND $5000 AND AROUND $6500 TO AUSTRALIA. FOR AN EXACT SHIPPING PRICE TO ANY STATE OR OCEAN FREIGHT TO AUSTRALIA, EUROPE ANY COUNTRY PLEASE SEND US AN e-mail WITH THE CITY AND STATE OR THE COUNTRY AND PORT YOU NEED IT SHIPPED. Bentley, bennington, harris, crest, sylvan, tracker, misty harbor, starcraft, JC tri toon, stingray, sea ray, chaparral, four wins, crownline, bayliner, Larson, Tidewater, sportsman, blue wave, silver wave, premier, scout, contender, regulator, cobia, sailfish, bulls bay, pioneer, nautic star, sea pro, pro line, ranger, triton, key west, sea hunt, scout, grady white, hewes, blackjack, pathfinder, sea fox, sweet water, aqua patio, san pan, Bentley, pathfinder, blackjack, hewes, sterling, verandah, war eagle, sea ark, alumacraft, DescriptionBasic InformationType: PontoonUse: Fresh WaterCondition: UsedModel: Osprey 24Make: ManitouYear: 2006EngineEngine Make: EvinrudeEngine Model: E-TecEngine Hours: 98Engine Horsepower: 115Length / BeamBeam (Feet): 8.6Length (Feet): 24TrailerTrailerHull TypeHull Material: AluminumOther InformationWater Test RPMsIdleMidrangeWOT ContactDoss Marine 1720 Chapin Rd Chapin, South Carolina 29036Ask for:Doss Marineoffice:803-345-1001Email: Email SellerDirectionsTerms Doss Marine 1720 Chapin Rd Chapin, South Carolina 29036 Click for Driving Directions Ask For:Doss Marineoffice:803-345-1001 Email: Email SellerHours of Operation (EST):Monday-Friday08:00am-05:00pmsaturday09:00am-12:00pm Placing a Bid: Your bid constitutes a legally binding contract to purchase this vehicle. Please do not bid if you're not seriously interested or financially able to purchase this vehicle. Please read eBay's User Agreement Doss Automotive and Marine reserves the right to, Obtain and verify the registered information of all users who bid on this auction. Cancel any and all bids at our discretion, or end the auction early if necessary. Bidders Age: You must be 18 years of age or older to Bid. Special eBay Bid Retraction Rules: Please read eBay's "Retracting a Bid" If you place a bid before the last 12-hour period of the auction: You may retract that bid before that last 12-hour period but only for exceptional circumstances. You will not be allowed to retract that bid during the last 12-hour period of the auction. If you place a bid during the last 12-hour period of the auction: You will be allowed to retract the bid for exceptional circumstances but only if you do so within one hour after placing the bid. Funds & Financing: For help or for any questions please e-mail or phone Will or Troy at 803-345-1001 prior to bidding. Buyers Inspection: Doss Automotive and Marine has done our best to disclose all information known about this vehicle for auction. Doss Automotive and Marine welcomes a buyers inspection. If you plan to have a buyers inspection, please make sure you inspect the vehicle prior to the auction ending. Inspection fees if any are Buyers responsibility. Representations and Warranties made by seller: This vehicle is being sold "as is". Manufacturers warranties may still apply. Extended warranty may be available, e-mail or phone Will or Troy at 803-345-1001 for details. No representations or warranties are made by seller, nor are any representations or warranties relied upon by bidders in making bids. Taxes and Registration fees: Out of state buyers are responsible for all state, county, city taxes and fees, as well as title service fees in the state that the vehicle will be registered. All taxes and fees must be paid in full in order for vehicle to be titled and registered. Title Information: Doss Automotive and Marine requires a $500 deposit to be paid within 24 hours on all vehicle auctions. The deposit can be paid by paypal, cashiers check or wire transfer. Full payment should be made within 7 days by cashiers check, wire transfer or cash in person. No personal checks will be accepted without prior approval. Doss Automotive and Marine Charges a $150 Documentation fee for EVERY VEHICLE SOLD. This fee includes Temporary Tag and all necessary paperwork. If the boat is picked up in South Carolina then sales tax of up to $300 on boat and 7% on the trailer will be collected. If we arrange the shipping and the shipping is paid for by Doss Marine, then all sales tax will be paid in your home state. All in state purchases are charged 5% sales tax up to $300 maximum on boat and 7% of the trailer value. ALL TITLES ARE MAILED 7-10 DAYS AFTER PAYMENT IS MADE UNLESS OTHER ARRANGEMENTS ARE MADE! We will do our best to make arrangements to pick you up from the local airport as long as proper notice is given to us. Shipping & Delivery: All shipping charges are buyer's responsibility. Doss Automotive and Marine will help with shipping arrangements but will not be responsible in any way for claims arising from shipping damage! Licensed Carriers are generally insured for $3,000,000.00. We assume no responsibility for damages incurred after the vehicle leaves our showroom. All shipping arrangements are provided by Doss Automotive and Marine as a courtesy. We are not affiliated with any carrier. Any claims or other communication regarding shipment of vehicles will be between you and the shipper, not with Doss Automotive and Marine. The amount of time it takes for delivery is dependent on the carrier, but is generally 7-14 days from the date the vehicle is picked up from our facility until it is delivered to your destination. Verify with the shipper for an Estimate Time of Arrival to be sure. Finalizing your Purchase: Doss Automotive and Marine will contact the successful high bidder by e-mail after the auction closes. Successful high bidder MUST communicate with Will at Doss Automotive and Marine by e-mail or phone 803-345-1001 within 24 hours of the auction ending to make arrangements to complete their transaction. If we cannot confirm your intention to buy or the sale is not completed within 5 days, we reserve the right to relist this vehicle or sell to any other qualified buyer. In order to secure bid on vehicle, Successful bidder (BUYER) must within 24 hours of bid closing send to Seller a Deposit in the amount of $500 by paypal or bank certified funds. Within 7 days of bid closing, Buyer must send balance of funds by bank wire transfer, cash in person, bank certified funds to Seller. Auction123, Inc. (a service and listing/software company) and the Seller has done his/her best to disclose the equipment/condition of this vehicle/purchase. However, Auction123.com disclaims any warranty as to the accuracy or to the working condition of the vehicle/equipment listed. The purchaser or prospective purchaser should verify with the Seller the accuracy of all the information listed within this ad. Copyright © 2014 Auction123, Inc. - All Rights Reserved. Selling a Vehicle? Create Professional Listings Fast and Easy. Click Here! Image Hosting and Counters by: Auction123.com
1984 Boston Whaler Outrage 22' Center Console w/ 1996 Yamaha 225hp
$14,500
Selbyville, Delaware
Category Center Consoles
Length 22.2
Posted Over 1 Month
Fish slaying machine - Classic 1984 Boston Whaler Outrage 22'. This is sweet old school ride that handles better than most new boats on the market. We get looks/waves/compliments every time we take this classic out! It's a great Ocean/Bay boat and I will miss it. Only reason i'm selling is that my creek is too shallow at low tide and I need a shallower draft boat to do more sandbar/day trips with two young kids (downgrading to 17' Montauk). This boat is used, but not abused. There is one small imperfection on the corner of hull that has been coated with epoxy to prevent water intrusion (see pic). Other than this, the boat has normal cracks and chips for the age. The bottom is in good shape, no damage, but could use a sanding with new paint before another season in the water. Decks are solid and hull is dry. Dual batteries in rear and 2-stroke oil tank under the console. The electrical wiring needs some organization under the console. Left bow light does not work, it's intermittent at best. The fuel gauge is not reliable either. The boat gets used often like I said, turn key and roll out! The console and leaning post have teal green covers. 1996 225hp Yamaha Salt Water Series II Outboard with stainless steel prop. This is a carburated (not fuel injected) motor with good/even compression in all cylinders. Motor is reliable and fast. This combination will cruise at 30mph running about 4k rpm. Will top out at 40mph WOT with current prop. Higher pitch prop will get more top end, but the hole shot with this setup is nuts. Fuel tank is solid. No signs of pitting or corrosion when looking through 8" inspection ports. Fuel line coming off the tank looks newer. I doubt the tank is original, but I have no way of proving that. Bow rail is off now, but it comes with boat (holes filled in to prevent water intrusion - see pic). The bow rail caused some minor cracking in the gel coat around the attachment points, this is a normal issue with these boats. There are some suggestions/modifications to the rail to prevent further damage online (Continuous Wave and Whaler Central). Replacement teak rod holders also come with boat. The trailer does NOT go with this sale. The trailer was only used to get the boat from blocks to the dock behind house. Bunk trailer should be used for long-term storage for this boat. If you need it transported and blocked we can work this out depending on where you live. Like I said, I will miss this boat. I got over my head for the depth in my creek, but I had to try! This second video has some actions shots of the whaler. Check out scenes 0:30 and 2:12 to avoid the family stuff..
1984 Boston Whaler Outrage 22' Center Console w/ 1996 Yamaha 225hp
$16,000
Selbyville, Delaware
Year -
Make -
Model -
Category -
Length -
Posted Over 1 Month
Fish slaying machine - Classic 1984 Boston Whaler Outrage 22'. The boat is currently in the water behind my house and gets used often. We get looks/waves/compliments every time we take this classic out! It's a great Ocean/Bay boat and I will miss it. Only reason i'm selling is that my creek is too shallow at low tide and I need a shallower draft boat to do more sandbar/day trips with two young kids (downgrading to 17' Montauk). This boat is used, but not abused. There is one small imperfection on the corner of hull that has been coated with epoxy to prevent water intrusion (see pic). Other than this, the boat has normal cracks and chips for the age. The bottom is in good shape, no damage, but could use a sanding with new paint before another season in the water. Decks are solid and hull is dry. Dual batteries in rear and 2-stroke oil tank under the console. The electrical wiring needs some organization under the console. Left bow light does not work, it's intermittent at best. The fuel gauge is not reliable either. The boat gets used often like I said, turn key and roll out! The console and leaning post have teal green covers. 1996 225hp Yamaha Salt Water Series II Outboard with stainless steel prop. This is a carburated (not fuel injected) motor with good/even compression in all cylinders. Motor is reliable and fast. This combination will cruise at 30mph running about 4k rpm. Will top out at 40mph WOT with current prop. Higher pitch prop will get more top end, but the hole shot with this setup is nuts. Fuel tank is solid. No signs of pitting or corrosion when looking through 8" inspection ports. Fuel line coming off the tank looks newer. I doubt the tank is original, but I have no way of proving that. Bow rail is off now, but it comes with boat (holes filled in to prevent water intrusion - see pic). The bow rail caused some minor cracking in the gel coat around the attachment points, this is a normal issue with these boats. There are some suggestions/modifications to the rail to prevent further damage online (Continuous Wave and Whaler Central). Replacement teak rod holders also come with boat. The trailer does NOT go with this sale. The trailer was only used to get the boat from blocks to the dock behind house. Bunk trailer should be used for long-term storage for this boat. If you need it transported and blocked we can work this out depending on where you live. Like I said, I will miss this boat. I got over my head for the depth in my creek, but I had to try!
Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619
$1
El Cajon, California
Year -
Make -
Model -
Category -
Length -
Posted Over 1 Month
We buy, sell, trade, tune-up, and repair all brands, years, sizes and lengths of outboard motors including: Johnson, Evinrude, Mercury, Sears, Wards, Mariner, British Seagull, SeaKing, Clinton, Elgin, Eska, Aero Marine, Gamefisher, Cruise'n Carry, Force, Ted Williams, and numerous others in addition to: Honda, Nissan, Suzuki, Tanaka, Tohatsu, Yamaha, etc. We also carry used propellers for most of the above brands (it is best to bring your old propeller or outboard with you for a perfect fit). We have some lower units, power tilt and trim units, various used electric starters and small electric trolling motors for sale (great for kids on a small boat on a lake). Turn-around time, for carry-in repairs is about 5 business days or less.(depending on parts availability). A larger motor attached to your boat usually takes 1 to 2 days. We also rebuild electric and pull-starters for all motors and we have a huge selection of used outboard motors for sale ranging from 1hp to 250hp. All our motors have been serviced and ready to go. We do remove and install large outboard motors of all sizes. Call Marty at 619 - 972 - 9998 to discuss your motor. If no answer, please leave a message and I will get back to you as soon as possible. Please repeat your phone number twice because sometimes it is not clear. Often we can help you fix your problem on the phone at no cost. (Please no E-mails or texts). When you bring it in, we will give your outboard motor a compression and spark test, diagnose your engine, and tell you what it needs in repairs to get it back in good running condition. We will repair your motor at your request, answer your questions and make suggestions. Most of our business is by recommendation of satisfied customers. We will do everything possible to make you one. If we do not have the size or brand of outboard that you are looking for, ask us to put your name on our list and we will call you if and when such an outboard arrives. ------------------------------------- USEFUL TIPS & INFORMATION: ------------------------------ (1) All 2 stroke outboard engines made after 1963 require a 50:1 mixture (3 ounces of 2 stroke outboard motor oil per gallon of gas). The actual amount is 2.6 ounces per gallon (a little extra won't hurt, but less can cause severe damage to your engine). NOTE: NEVER use 100:1 as recommended by some manufacturers. It will cause your engine to lose compression and die prematurely. The only lubrication that your engine gets is from the oil that is mixed with the gas, therefore use 50:1 to be safe. (2) Older outboards (pre 1963) require double the amount of oil 25:1 mixture (6 ounces per gallon), some require a 16:1 mixture (8 ounces per gallon), and BRITISH SEAGULL engines require a 10:1 mixture (13 ounces per gallon). (3) 4 stroke outboards do not need oil mixed with the gas. Make sure the crankcase is full of oil (check the dipstick). If by mistake you ran your 4 stroke with oil mixed with gas do not be concerned. It's OK. (4) Always carry a minimum amount of tools like screwdrivers (blade and Phillips head), socket set including a spark plug socket, combination wrenches, vice grips, pliers, fire extinguisher, drift or punch to drive out a broken shear pin, a can of WD - 40, and a spray can of carburetor cleaner for starting emergencies, and a few extra new spark plugs (pre-gapped) in case yours become fouled, a new gas filter if your gas line has one, a tire pressure gauge, a long magnet and (extra-long) forceps (in case you drop a nut or a bolt), and a small flashlight. AVOID USING STARTER FLUID because it contains ether (bad for outboards). Also carry a pair of extra shear pins and cotter pins (for most outboards less than 35hp). And also a few small hose clamps to tighten a loose or leaking fuel line (see tip #53 below). (5) For small outboards under 40hp, keep the clamp handle screws greased so they will not freeze up from oxidation or salt. (6) For all outboards that have remote steering, grease the steering cable often if you go out in salt water to prevent the cable from "seizing up" and causing a costly repair. (7) For all outboards, starting it several times a year keeps everything "limber". (8) For all outboards, flushing your outboard in fresh water for 5 minutes after each saltwater use will prevent costly cooling system repairs. NOTE: Do not flush your motor in saltwater. Use a barrel, or a garden hose hooked up to outboard "earmuffs" or any other device made for your motor. (9) If you carry your small outboard motor in the bed of a pick-up truck, always tie it down securely or it might break the tiller or shift handle by rolling. (10) For all outboards, check your propeller for broken blades or chunks missing from any blade. Operating any outboard with uneven prop blades will cause vibration and damage to seals and other internal parts of the lower unit. Also it is best to carry a spare prop. (Approx. cost $50 for a used one) . (11) Spray a thin coat of WD 40 all around the powerhead of your outboard. It will not make your engine run better, but it will protect it from rust and salt deposits. (12) For pull start outboards, check the entire pull cord for signs of wear. You wouldn't want to break a pull cord when you are out fishing. (13) For electric start outboards, always carry 2 fully charged batteries in case one battery loses its charge. (14) For small (tiller steering) outboards up to 35hp, attach a short chain, cable or heavy rope (one end attached to your outboard's clamp section, and the other end attached to the transom of your boat) as a safety to prevent your motor from falling overboard. (15) For all outboards, in the event that you remove the top cowling to check your engine, put the cowling down away from the edge of the boat since any wave might send the cowling to the bottom of the ocean or lake. It will be difficult to locate a replacement. (16) For all outboards, most engine failure is a result of overheating. Always check the temp. gauge (if you have one) or by watching the "pisser". If you see steam coming out, shut the engine to avoid costly damage. Check the bottom of the lower unit to see if you picked up some vegetation, or a plastic bag which may be blocking your water intake. If you do not find anything, you may have a bad impeller or a bad water-pump housing. The best thing to do is, try (if possible) to get towed back by any good natured person in the area, or call "VESSEL ASSIST". If you do not have "Vessel Assist Insurance", it will be quite costly. To avoid all of the above, it is best to change your impeller every 2 years or sooner. Whether you use your outboard frequently, occasionally, or just once in 2 years, it is time more than wear that ruins the impeller. (17) If you own a boat (any kind), always remember to replace the drain plug in the stern (rear) before you go out, or the boat will slowly fill with water. This event happens to everyone at some time. It is best to make a check list and review it before you launch. (Also keep a spare drain plug near the drain-hole in your boat in case the original one gets "lost"). (18) For portable outboards, it is best (if possible) to mount the motor on land before you launch in the ocean, because any wave can cause you to drop your motor while you are mounting it. (19) For outboards with an integral gas tank (one that is built-in to your engine), always carry extra fuel and a FUNNEL, or much of the extra gas will be lost when pouring to re-fill your integral tank. (20) For pull-start outboards and some bigger electric starting engines, you should have a separate emergency starter rope with a handle in case your starter spring fails, or the rope tears, or the electric starter or battery fails. (21) For all outboards, it is wise to remove the propeller after several times of use, in order to remove the fishing line that sometimes collects there. This fishing line can cut through the prop seal and cause the lower unit to leak oil and take in water. (a costly repair). (22) Gasoline should be fresh (not more than 6 months old). If you choose to keep it longer, add the correct amount of STABIL. (23) For all trailered boats, (large and small) you should check the transom of your boat for stress cracks (caused by the motor bouncing because of bumps in the road). To prevent such cracks you should get a TRANSOM SAVER which takes the weight off your boat's transom and transfers it to the trailer. (It costs about $75, and can save you thousands). (24) For all outboards, check the lower unit gear oil. It should be dark brown or black in color. Water or coffee-n-cream color in the oil indicates a lower unit seal problem. Smelly/stinky oil is usually OK as long as the color is good. The gear oil should be changed annually. (25) For outboards up to 35hp, if you cannot get the boat to plane, try adjusting the tilt pin. If the boat still rides with its "nose" high in the air, it is probably because you have too much weight in the rear or (you may possibly have the wrong length lower unit). One remedy is to install a "WHALE TAIL" on the cavitation plate of your outboard to cause a greater lift in the rear. (It costs about $50). (26) For all boat trailers, you should get a BEARING BUDDY for each wheel. Its purpose is to keep the whole hub and wheel bearings greased and to prevent any water from entering the bearing zone when you back into the water. Keep it full of grease (with a grease gun). Without BEARING BUDDYS you can expect the bearings to seize-up sometime when you are trailering. You might snap an axle, lose control of your trailer, drop your boat off the trailer onto the road, or worse. BEARING BUDDYS are inexpensive and easy to put on. They can be found at any boat shop or automotive parts place. (27) For outboard engines that are partially submerged in saltwater for 3 months or longer, you can expect the lower unit's aluminum housing to begin disintegrating (dissolving). If you cannot keep the lower unit out of the saltwater, you should attach some zinc anodes to the cavitation plate. They will help save your lower unit. Cost of anodes $5 - $55 at any boat shop. (28) For all do-it-yourselfers, it is best to put grease or NEVER SEIZE on all the bolts that you remove and replace, to prevent rust and salt build-up on those bolts. (29) For all outboards, service your engine regularly. To do so not only prevents problems, but allows you or your mechanic to grease all the bolts that are removed and replaced so that those bolts will come out easily "without breaking" in the future. (30) For electric start outboards, at the first sign of starter trouble, get the starter serviced before you take the boat out fishing. Be happy that it gave you a warning. (31) It would be wise to carry an extra fuel tank "quick connector" fitting that "snaps" into your engine fuel fitting. The "O" ring that they all have sometimes goes bad causing the engine to suck too much air instead of fuel. The engine will then stall or run poorly. Cost about $7 - $20. (32) We sell many large 2 stroke outboards to unfortunate people who relied on their automatic oil feeders known as "VRO". We suggest that you disconnect your VRO and add oil to your gas the old fashioned way. Your engine can become totally ruined within seconds when your VRO fails. Don't take our word for this suggestion. Ask other outboard mechanics for their opinions. . (33) It is suggested that you do not go full throttle on any outboard, because it over-stresses your motor. You should use about 95% of your maximum power. This can be accomplished by putting in a "stop" near the end of your throttle or just remembering to back off a little. This should save gas, wear and tear to your engine, thus making it last longer. (It is similar to driving your car with the gas pedal to the floor) (34) For outboards that use portable gasoline tanks (2-12 gallons), it is wise to use a good plastic or aluminum gas tank. (An aluminum tank is hard to find). The reason for using aluminum or plastic is because they will never rust. A rusty tank will probably clog your gas filter or carburetor when the rust-dust gets there. You should keep the plastic tank away from the direct rays of the sun which will cause it to become brittle and crack. You should replace your plastic gas tank after a few years as needed. (35) For all outboards, never store your outboard motor upside down or it may seize from the water residue that will drain into the powerhead causing the internal parts to rust. It is best to store it vertically. (36) For small outboards (carrying type), it is wise to run your motor out of fuel before you take it off your boat. The reason is to prevent the gas that remains in the carburetor from spilling onto the carpet in your car or trunk when you lie the motor down. (37) For outboards that are bolted to the transom of a fiberglass boat, make sure that MARINE silicone is used to coat the mounting bolts and to fill the mounting bolt holes. Apply the silicone liberally. This will prevent water from getting into the bolt holes and save your transom from rotting. Behind the fiberglass is wood. The wood will rot over time if water gets to it. (38) For all outboards, never run your engine "dry" (without water) or it will seriously damage your impeller within 1 minute. You might not realize this, and the next time you go out boating or fishing your engine may overheat. (39) For all trailerable boats, it is wise to attach a safety chain from the "pulling-eye" at the front of your boat to the area near the winch. If your pulling strap suddenly breaks, the safety chain will stop your boat from coming off the trailer in transit. (40) For all outboards, when you change the gear oil, be certain that when you replace the oil screws, that each of the 2 screws has a plastic (or composition) flat washer to prevent oil from leaking out and water from leaking in. Sometimes the washers get stuck in the "screw well". That is OK. Replace the screws and tighten securely. NOTE: If the flat washer is missing, DO NOT replace with an "O" ring. It will surely fail. (41) For all outboards, it is wise to replace the lower oil drain screw with a magnetic elongated drain screw. It will catch any small loose steel particles that break off within the gearcase, warning you that a problem may be developing there. Approx. cost for a magnetic oil screw $8.00 at any boat shop. (42) For all outboards, when changing gears from NEUTRAL to FORWARD, or from NEUTRAL to REVERSE, first lower your speed to minimum. Do not "ease" the shifter into place. Be decisive! Slowly shifting into forward or reverse will cause the gears to grind and lead to costly repairs. (43) For all sailboats with outboard motors, be certain that your outboard motor does not pick-up out of the water when the sailboat rocks. One remedy is to lower the engine mount (if possible), or get an outboard motor with a longer shaft, or else the impeller may become damaged and fail, causing your outboard to overheat. (44) For 2 stroke outboards, it is wise to add outboard motor oil at the same time that you purchase gas. Waiting until you get home increases the chance that you will forget to add oil. Running your outboard without oil can destroy your engine within 15 seconds (a very costly error). (45) For small 4 stroke engines, when transporting your outboard off the boat or when storing it, it is best to keep it in a vertical position. If you must lie it down, make sure that it lies according to the manufacturer's instructions. Lying it down on the wrong side will cause the engine oil to seep out. Always check the oil level with the dipstick before you start any 4 stroke outboard. If your engine oil level is low, you can add any standard automotive oil. (46) To tell if a boat leaks without taking it to a lake or ocean, use a garden hose to fill the bottom of the boat with water. If the water leaks out of the bottom, the boat surely has a leak and it may show you exactly where to repair it. (47) Be smart: DO NOT LEND YOUR OUTBOARD MOTOR OR MOTORBOAT TO ANYONE. If you do, don't be surprised by the motor problems you will have have when it is returned. (48) For uncovered boats left outside between usages, remove the drain plug so your boat will not fill up with rainwater. Check the drain hole periodically to remove leaves, dirt, etc. Be sure to replace the drain plug before you go boating. (49) For all boats that are trailered, it is unwise to tow even a short distance without one or 2 spare tires. If you get a flat tire and have no spare, you can expect a mostly ruined fishing or boating day. I recommend 2 spare tires because in the event that you use your spare because of a flat tire, you no longer have a spare. NOTE: Many people prevent weathering of their spares by carrying them in their trunk. (50) For all trailer users, it is wise to have a 12 volt tire inflator that plugs into your cigarette lighter or attaches to your car battery. If your trailer tires are low they could possibly blow-out or become flat. A 12 volt tire inflator will take a few minutes to restore the required air pressure etched on the tire by the manufacturer. Cost: $15-$40. (51) It is wise to make a check- list of all the things you will need when you go boating or fishing so you will not forget anything. Write it on thick stiff paper so it will not crumble and can be used repeatedly, and you can add to the list as needed. (52) For all outboards, if your motor runs in neutral but it will not move in forward or reverse, it might have broken shear pin, or a faulty propeller, or a loose shift rod. Do not assume that the gears are bad until you eliminate those 3 items. (53) For all outboards, check all gasoline hoses. Today's gasoline contains alcohol which hardens and /or deteriorates most old hoses. They rot from the inside and cause problems with your carburetor and /or sometimes cause a dangerous gas leak and loss of power. It would be wise to change the hoses annually to prevent problems. The cost of hoses is approx. $2-$10 at any automotive shop. Bring a sample with you. Make sure that the new hoses are alcohol resistant. (54) For all sailboats that are in slips and use outboard motors mounted onto an outside kicker bracket. When mounting or removing your outboard it is wise to maneuver your boat so that the outboard motor is over the floating dock. This can be accomplished by backing up your sailboat so that the motor is not directly above water, but above the walkway. The purpose is to prevent the outboard from falling out of your hands when mounting or dismounting it. Many people have dropped their outboards into the water by trying to mount them while leaning over the stern. (55) For all trailers, make sure that the ball is securely fastened to the coupler before pulling the trailer. Sometimes the coupler "looks" as though it is fastened, but it is not. The trailer may become undone and cause havoc on the road. It only takes a few seconds to carefully check it before you tow. COST: zero, SAVINGS: perhaps a life. (56) For all trailerable boats, always check your trailer lights. The cops are out there with spare tickets anxiously waiting to give them out. It is also safer if all your lights are working. Backing your trailer into a lake or saltwater will often ruin your trailer lights. The cost of repairing the lights is considerably less than the cost of a ticket and a loss of time at the courthouse. P.S. You can also get a ticket if your safety chain is not properly attached. (57) For all outboards it is wise to buy or make any device that will stop or slow down a thief who would like to steal your engine. If it takes a thief more than I minute to remove your engine, he will probably go elsewhere. It is best if everyone made their own device so that the thief will not be able to figure out a system for fast removal. (58) For all outboards, always carry a metal scraper, or stainless steel wool, or at least some emery cloth, or sandpaper. Sometimes your motor will not start because the battery cable terminals are dirty or corroded, or other wire terminals or ground connections may be corroded. The emery cloth or sandpaper may restore a clean connection to wherever it is needed. (59) For all outboards sitting idle for long periods of time, check the wires (not the spark plug wires) by shaking them with your fingers. If the insulation is brittle and crumbles you must replace the wires before starting your engine because they might short-out and cause costly damage to your electrical components. They can also cause a fire under the hood. This happens mostly to old Mercury outboards, but it can happen to any brand. (60) If you made a checklist, add this to it: Swing or crank the trailer jack wheel up and out of the way after attaching your hitch, or it might get damaged or break off when pulling the boat for as little as a few inches. (61) For small outboards (up to 25hp), if you notice that your outboard is not "pissing" water, don't panic. It might be a clogged "pee" hole or a clogged intake. Check if the engine is HOT. If it IS HOT shut it down immediately. If it is NOT HOT, push a wire (the thickness of a paper clip) into the "pee" hole. This might open the clogged passage. Also check the intake screen (at the bottom of the engine near the propeller) for debris. (62) For all outboards, if you remove your propeller (for any reason), before you put it back on, it is wise to grease the propeller shaft to prevent the propeller from "freezing" to the propeller shaft (because of salt and/or rust). If the propeller is already " frozen" and it will not come off (after you tried tapping it with a hammer and cussing), you may have to cut it off with an electric hand grinder or something similar. Sometimes a propane torch will burn out the rubber insert that holds the propeller together. Neither method is pleasant. A little grease now can save you a lot of time and money in the future. NOTE: Do not hit the propeller hard with a hammer or you might bend the propeller shaft which will cause costly internal lower unit damage when you go boating. (63) For all boat owners, it is advisable to purchase liability insurance for your vessel because you are responsible for any damage or injury that is caused by your boat or its wake. (64) For most gas tanks (metal and plastic), do not fill to the top with gas. Give the gasoline room to expand during hot weather, or the pressure inside the tank may cause the gas to overflow, the tank to rupture, distort, or generate small cracks at its top etc. Sometimes the cracks may not be visible, but during the rainy season (unknown to you) water may seep into the tank through those cracks. You will not be able to start your engine if there is water in the gas. (65) For all saltwater fishermen, it is wise to carry a thermos of HOT water or coffee in case you catch a sculpin and get stuck by its poisonous fins. Pouring HOT water on the injury will immediately neutralize the poison. Using cold water to stop the pain will make it worse. Ask your medical doctor. (66) For all outboard motors, if your motor runs great with the hood off, but runs terrible with the hood on, you may have an exhaust leak that is fouling your carburetor. Consult your mechanic for a remedy. (67) For all outboards, if you hear electrical arcing, pulsating or buzzing noises when it is running, you may have an electrical problem. A good way to investigate the problem is to run the outboard at night where it is dark and look below the hood. If you see sparks, clean and tighten the connections or change the part that is sparking as soon as possible because the sparks can start a fire. (68) For all boat trailers, if you notice that your boat is sagging to one side, the trailer may have a broken leaf in its set of springs. If so, get it fixed promptly before another leaf breaks because of the added stress. (69) For all outboards, check the water intake near the bottom of your motor for a broken or "plugged-up" screen. Clean or replace if broken. (70) For all boat, car, and truck owners, if you have a build-up of acid corrosion on your battery post, pour very hot water onto it. The corrosion will immediately vanish. (71) For outboards over 10 years old that have foam-rubber glued to the inside of the hood by the manufacturer, be sure to REMOVE ALL OF IT by any means because the foam will flake-off and plug up your carburetor. DO IT NOW!!! Also remove any dust, or leaves because your carburetor will suck any loose material into it like a vacuum cleaner. (72) For all outboards, it is wise to start and run your outboard at home for 10 minutes before you go out boating or fishing. Sometimes your motor will not start. You do not want to have trouble starting at the lake or ocean. It is best to deal with the problem on land. Be sure not to start it without water. (73) For all boat trailers, you will need a jack and a lug-wrench that fits your trailer's lug nuts. If they are rusty you may need a length of steel pipe to give you more leverage with the lug wrench. (It also helps to spray W-40 on everything during removal). (74) It is wise to often check the tire pressure in your spare tire because it may be very low. It can lose air, by just "sitting". (75) To determine if your (questionable) boat battery is good, it will need a "load test". For an accurate reading, you should charge-up your battery for about 2-3 hrs. A load test takes about 10 seconds. Most auto parts shops will load test your battery for free. (76) For all outboards, many of them take about 1-2 minutes to warm up. In that time your motor may stall, misfire, run-rough, etc. It may need more choke or less choke depending on how much gas is in the carburetor or carburetors (if you have more than one). Be sure that the "pump-up ball" is hard and the carburetor(s) is full of gas. (77) For all boaters, you can expect that at some time in the future your outboard motor will not start or re-start while you are out fishing. If you can afford it, it is wise to carry an auxiliary motor, or mount one on the stern. It should be between 4 hp and 25 hp depending on the size of your boat. It can also be used to save gas when you are slow-trolling for fish. (78) For all 2 stroke outboards, if you notice oil "leaking" near the foot of the motor, it is NORMAL because all the oil in the gas that went into the engine for lubrication must either "burn" or drip-out after the motor is shut down. It is wise to use an oil drip pan under the lower unit to prevent a stain on your driveway or elsewhere. (79) For users of small boats that use outboards, to avoid painful blisters bring along a pair of leather gloves along with oars in case your motor won't start and you have to row. NOTE: Most boaters are aware of the above suggestions, but not everyone. I hope that I may have saved someone the inconvenience of having a bad day on the water. If I think of any more tips, I will add them to the list. Perhaps you should make a copy of the tips as a reminder.
