Sailboats Outboard Boats for sale

1-15 of 381

Sort By

1975 Islander Sailboats 30 Bahama

1975 Islander Sailboats 30 Bahama

$24,000

Santa Cruz, California

Year 1975

Make Islander Sailboats

Model 30 Bahama

Category Sloop

Length 30

Posted 3 Weeks Ago

The overall condition of this Islander appears to be very good with obvious attention paid to the woodwork. The sails are reported to be serviceable and the rigging as well. There is a 9.9 Yamaha 4 stroke outboard motor that will get you in and out of the harbor with ease as well as a very reliable and economical mode of propulsion should the wind becomes calm. Stock #331809 Has a Tabernacle Folding Mast allowing it entrance to the Santa Cruz Upper Harbor This Islander is uniquely suited for the Santa Cruz Harbor as it has a Tabernacle Mast which means you can lower the mast on its pivot mounting structure in order to clear the bridge which would otherwise block entrance to the upper harbor. The boat has all the features of a 30-foot sailboat and some upgrades that the owner has installed such as a new Jabsco Toilet, updated cabin lighting and a charging port for your electronic devices. There is a V-Berth that will accommodate two adults comfortably and a full head in the forward cabin. There is a lot of room in the cabin with plenty of seating for guests. This is a perfect boat for coastal sailing and is perfectly located in the Santa Cruiz harbor. Reason for selling is wants a bigger boat..

2006 Hunter Marine 216

2006 Hunter Marine 216

$6,500

Long Neck, Delaware

Year 2006

Make Hunter Marine

Model 216

Category Sloop Sailboats

Length 21.5

Posted Over 1 Month

 4HP Tohatsu 4 stroke outboard with new external 3 gallon gas tank.  2006 Load rite trailer with spare tire, lights, winch, side guides and tongue jack. • Good condition. Ready to sail. Kept on a lift out of water when not in use. • 11 ft. cockpit and large cuddy cabin for gear. • Mainsail with battens and reef points, re-resined and stitched last winter, new main halyard. • Roller furling jib with UV cover, 2 years old, new furling sheet. • LazyJacks and Mainsail stacking system • Boom vang • Depth gauge • 500 lb swing keel with pneumatic winch • 12 V Battery w/panel • Anti fouling bottom paint • Stereo • Bilge pump • Spinnaker rig kit minus the sail • Boat cover for winter storage • Legal titles for both boat and trailer

2004 MacGregor M26 Sailboat 50h/p Outboard Engine Trailer Included CDI Furling

2004 MacGregor M26 Sailboat 50h/p Outboard Engine Trailer Included CDI Furling

$18,800

Deerfield, Illinois

Year 2004

Make MacGregor

Model 26M

Category Sailboats

Length 26.0

Posted Over 1 Month

Before you send an offer or click the buy it now, please call me at 847 736 8585 ! -----ANY OFFER WITHOUT A PRIOR PHONE CALL WILL BE DENIED----- ***2004 MacGregor 26M Sailboat with 50h/p Mercury Outboard Engine*** *MacGregor Trailer with New Tires Included - Take the Boat Anywhere - It Only needs 14" of Water to Float * ***CDI Roller Furler Installed with Jib Sail - Also New Genoa Sail Included - All Sales Are Excellent*** ***Leather Seat Cushions for the Boat are Without Rips or Tears in Excellent Shape*** ***It Has Navigation, Marine Radio, Gas BBQ, Fridge, Microwave, Porta potty, Solar Battery Charger, Bumpers, Life Vests, Flotation Devices, Signal Gun, A bunch of Ropes, Mast Raising System, Extra Set of New Boat Riggings Metal Lines, Extra Rudder, Bilge Pump and Registration Until 2017*** ***The Boat is Ready for the Water and Does Not Need Anything*** ***I Keep the Boat on the Trailer at My Local Marina for $50/Month - takes me 10 min to be in the water*** Watch the MacGregor Video here: WATCH THE MACGREGOR VIDEO HERE Don't Assume Anything - Call 847 736 8585 and I'll do a walk around the vehicle for you! Please contact me by phone or email before you submit an offer or click the BUY IT NOW option. I have to talk to a live person before accepting any offers! If you have any questions, please call me at (847) 736 8585 Usually my actions end with a phone call...

The Nicest 42’ Aft-Cabin Cruising/Chartering Sailboats - Located in Costa Rica

The Nicest 42’ Aft-Cabin Cruising/Chartering Sailboats - Located in Costa Rica

$109,000

Galt, Iowa

Year 1974

Make Gulfstream

Model Aft Cabin

Category Cruiser Motorcycles

Length 42.0

Posted Over 1 Month

The following is from when we had purchased her just two years ago. She is Literally, one of the Nicest 42’ Aft-Cabin GulfStream Blue Water Sailboats Ever Built and in Absolutely Excellent Condition ‘Beautiful & Spacious’, Loaded with Extras including ‘Central-Air Conditioning’ and Costa Rican Flagged. A Perfect Business Opportunity She’s Completely Renovated and Fully Equipped for Live Aboard, Tourist Business or for Comfortable and Safe Extended Cruising She is ‘Beautiful & Spacious’ Inside and Out including ‘Central-Air’ Costa Rican Flagged and offers a Perfect Business Opportunity New Exotic Wood Interior including over $75,000 in Upgrades and Electronics Sailing capabilities: Offshore Cruising and without limitations. This GulfStream-42 is in Excellent ‘Ready to Go’ Condition. She only needs someone to Appreciate and Enjoy Sailing with her. Please see attached pictures for details. She is Flagged and located in Costa Rica, Certified and All Taxed are Up to Date. We purchased this Beautiful Sailboat last year from a local sailor with 20-years of extensive offshore sailing experience but since we have had little time to enjoy her, we have decided to let her go to someone who would appreciate her as much as we have and has more time to enjoy a Lifetime of Wonderful Memories. BOAT DESCRIPTION: COMPLETELY UPGRADED AND FULLY EQUIPPED GulfStream-42 'Center-Cockpit' in Tip-Top Condition. Central Air-Conditioning, 6'8" Head Room with 2 private cabins, Two Full Bathrooms with Private Showers. Walk-through Aft Master Suite. Costa Rica Registered and Flagged. Title transferable through a Costa Rica Corporation. Perfect Income for Tourism. Boat is in overall excellent condition and well prepared for extended blue-water or costal excursions. Electricity is provided by both Shore Power, Solar and her onboard "4.5kw Northern Lights" generator. Interior/Cabin: Central Air-Conditioning provided throughout with a Comfortable and very roomy 'Walkthrough' Aft Cabin Stateroom with private head and shower, Forward V-birth with Private Head and Shower with lots of head room. Enjoy watching Movies or local Television Channels from her ‘Sharp 26" 720p HD LCD Television’. She sleeps 6 with lots of storage, Universal Gas Stove/Oven, fridge/freezer, very Spacious Cockpit, Newly Painted Bottom and Deck. General remarks: All New Navigation Electronics including the INTERPHASE (1,200') Forward Looking Sonar, Garmin 5208 8.4" 'Touch Screen' GPS, Garmin 18" HD Radar. She is an Excellent Sailor, Very Comfortable, Roomy, Extremely Strong and Well Built, Well Kept boat. Perfect for Chartering, Single Handling or as a Spacious Family Boat. Sails: 1992 and in very good condition. DETAILED SPECIFICATIONS Description GulfStream built many designs but this one's tough to beat as an outstanding cruising design. Her cutaway full keel and skeg-hung rudder offers uncompromising performance between comfort and stability. She's ready to store your provisions aboard, cast off her lines and make way for an Experience of a Lifetime. Dimensions LOA: 42/00 ft/in LWL: 33/00 ft/in Beam: 12/00 ft/in Maximum Draft: 4/10 ft/in Displacement: 22000 lbs Bridge Clearance: 56/00 ft/in Galley REFRIGERATION/FREEZER: Adler Barbour 2.8A@12vDC STOVE: Universal SS three-burner propane stove with oven (LPG) with GAS ALARM SINK: Single SS WATER SYSTEM: Pressure SEAWATER WASHDOWN WATERMAKER: New and Never Activated Powersurvivor-35 Accommodations A very spacious, cruise-friendly, Live Aboard interior lay-out! Provides Central Air-Conditioning throughout. The Aft Master Stateroom has a full-width KING-SIZE BED with Private head/shower. The Forward Stateroom has a roomy v-berth and storage in lockers, drawers and bins. The guest head is to port. The salon features a H-shaped dinette and a spacious L-shaped galley to port and an adjacent settee to starboard. The navigation stations is center and to starboard. Engine ENGINE: 50Hp Perkins-4107 diesel, completely overhauled 1998 HOURS: 150 hours since rebuild. New April, 2012 Heat Exchanger SPEED: Cruising Speed: 6mph / Maximum Speed: 8mph Electronics CHARTPLOTTER: New Garmin 5208/GSD22 FISH FINDER: Sounder/Fish-Finder BlueChart G2 2012 Garmin Vision VSA002R South America West Coast BlueChart G2 2012 Garmin Vision VUS031R Southwest Caribbean RADAR DOME: Garmin GMR 18 HD 18" Radar Dome DEPTH/TEMP: Garmin B60-12, 12 Degree Tilted Element Transducer VHF: Icom IC-M80 & Garmin VHF 200 Marine Radio HANDHELD Uniden MHS75 New Submersible Two-Way VHF Radio SONAR: 1,200' INTERPHASE COLOR TWINSCOPE FWD LOOKING SONAR STEREO: Dual MXD50 AM/FM/CD Marine Receiver AM/FM/CD WIND SPEED & DIRECTION: Horizon Standard AUTO PILOT: Alpha Marine Spectra "Top of the Line AP" KNOT METER/LOG: Horizon Standard COMPASS: Danforth Constellation (at helm) Electrical ELECTRICAL SYSTEM: 12vDC/120vAC AIR CONDITIONER: Mermaid 16,000btu Air Conditioner GENERATOR: 2008 Northern Lights Generator (710 hrs) BATTERIES: 3-marine deep cycle House Batteries - 2-Starter Batteries - Both New May, 2012) AMP HOURS: 100Ah each BATTERY PARALLEL SWITCH: (2) Yes BATTERY MONITOR: Sterling ProReg D Marine 12/24 Volt Advanced Regulator DOCKSIDE CABLE: 50' 30-amp INVERTER: Power Bright 1,500w (New May, 2012) INTERIOR LIGHTING: 12vDC ALTERNATOR: Powerline Series 25 - 120amp (+ Control) BATTERY CHARGER: Progressive Dynamics 40 AMP Marine Charger PD2140 OTHER: 1-250W Mono-Crystalline Solar Panel Mechanical Equipment PROPELLER: Three-blade bronze BILGE PUMPS: New April, 2012 (1) New Rule 3000 automatic RAW WATER SEA STRAINERS: New April, 2012 Bronze FIRE EXTINGUISHING: Manual dry chemical FUEL FILTERS: (1) Racor STEERING: Wheel, cable to quadrant FUEL SHUT OFFS: Diesel, LPG FRESH WATER COOLING: Yes ENGINE ROOM HEAT EXTRACTOR TRANSMISSION: Hydraulic Borgwarner MASTER TOILET: Thetford Tecma 'Silence Plus' Electric Toilet - (New) GUEST TOILET: Jabsco 'Manual' Toilet - Guest Bathroom (New) HOLDING TANK: None WIND VANE SELFSTEERING: None FIRE SAFE: (New) Sails & Rigging SAILS: 2-Main (extra as backup); 1-Genoa (Roller Furling); Spinnaker ROLLER FURLING: Hood 808-SL (New) TOTAL SAIL AREA: 691 sq. ft. MAST: Aluminum, keel-stepped STANDING RIGGING: SS wire (New) SPINNAKER POLE: (1) WINCHES: (2) Barlow-16 at the mast with Barlow-2 wire main halyard winch. Lewmar 48 2-speed and a single Barlow-16 winch. Deck & Ground Tackle ANCHORS: 45lb. Bruce; 45# CQR, 40lb Grapnel stern anchor TOE RAILS: FG LADDER: Folding SS and Plastic swim BOW PULPIT: SS ANCHOR WINDLESS: 'MAXWELL' (12vDC) ANCHOR TACKLE: Two Forward Compartments. Bay-1: 250' Grade-40 High Test Genuine ACCO Brand Windless Anchor Chain Bay-2: 90' Grade-40 HT ACCO Chain with 300' of 1" Rode DINGHY & MOTOR: 2009 9.5 Caribe-C9 10' Hard Bottom Inflatable with Evenrude 15-h.p. Outboard. Both serviced April, 2012 ANCHOR DAVIT/ROLLER: Double SS LIGHTS: Deck-mount Navigatin, Masthead Tricolor, Spreader COVERS & CURTAINS: Custom aluminum Bimini with full enclosure, cockpit and aft deck awnings LIFELINES & STANCHIONS: Double SS wire on SS stanchions DECK MATERIAL: FRP with integral nonskid BOARDING GATES: P&S Safety Equipment LifeSling Overboard Rescue System 7-Adult & 2-Children Life jackets Exclusions Owners' personal effects She's located in Costa Rica and Import as well as all other Taxes are Fully-Paid and Up-to-Date. FYI: Import Taxes in Costa Rica for Sailboats are 65% of their Book Value. We've Invested over $125,000 since owning her however,she could be yours today for only $109,000 Reasonable Offers Considered.

SAILBOAT 22' Venture 222  daysailer with trailer sails and outboard

SAILBOAT 22' Venture 222 daysailer with trailer sails and outboard

$1,900

Randolph, New Jersey

Year 1971

Make Macgregor

Model Venture 222

Category Daysailer Sailboats

Length 22.0

Posted Over 1 Month

This sailboat has a swing-down keel and pop-up top. It sleeps four. Model is 1971 VENTURE 222 built by Macgregor Yacht Corp.Evinrude Yachwin 8hp motor is very clean and runs good. Comes with fuel tank.Sails and covers with windows are in good shape.Clean NJ title. Boat was last registered 2013.Trailer is road worthy and has bearing buddies with zerk fittings. Just purchased new trailer lights and wiring.Comes with misc items: ladder, bumpers, anchor, etcCushions are all there and in decent shape. Interior could perhaps benefit from some new paint.Last photo is of a similar boat with the pop-up in the up position so you can see what it looks like. It really opens up the cabin and provides good standing room.NJ delivery is available / negotiable. Viewable In Randolph 07869 Feel free to contact me for an appointment to view the boat.

Hunter 240  sail boat  w/ trailer and 6 hp outboard

Hunter 240 sail boat w/ trailer and 6 hp outboard

$9,500

Clinton, Mississippi

Year 1998

Make Hunter

Model 240

Category Daysailer Sailboats

Length 24.0

Posted Over 1 Month

in slip at Jackson Resevior; roller furling jib with new sail cover; 6 hp Nissan outboard; porta-potie; sink; anchor; trailer

Torqeedo 1003 Electric Outboard!

Torqeedo 1003 Electric Outboard!

$1,999

San Diego, California

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category -

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

Free shipping and no sales tax! Ask about in stock clearance motors! If you have a smaller sailboat and just need to get in and out of the wind, the 1.5 and 3 hp Torqeedo 503 or 1003 will work just great. The motors weigh just 30 pounds with a detachable tiller arm and battery! No cords to pull, just turn the tiller arm and go. For larger boats, the Cruise 2.0 and 4.0 are 6 and 9.9 hp with external deep cycle batteries. They are great on larger sailboats, pontoons or fishing boats. All Torqeedo motors can be recharged via free clean solar power. Do you have a kayak and need an extra push sometimes, the Ultralight 403 is the answer! So why not get off gas today? Think about a Torqeedo electric outboard! Call four one six 659-5460 or visit http://www.humberboats.ca http://www.facebook.com/torqeedocanada http://www.youtube.com/humberboats Forget the gas, go electric! Tor-1003-2

1968 Jensen Marine Cal 20 sailboat with 2009 Suzuki 4-stroke outboard

1968 Jensen Marine Cal 20 sailboat with 2009 Suzuki 4-stroke outboard

$1,500

Carbondale, Colorado

Year 1968

Make Jensen Marine

Model Cal 20

Category Daysailer Sailboats

Length 20.0

Posted Over 1 Month

1968 Jensen Marine Cal 20 fiberglass sailboat. 20' length, 7' beam. Fixed keel with 850lb ballast. 3'4" draft. 8' cockpit. 2009 4hp Suzuki 4-stroke outboard motor included. Long shaft. Only 62.6hrs. Very reliable and uses very little gas. Recently refinished trailer with new tires included. Jib and main sail are in good condition. No spinnaker. Mast, stays and sheets all in good working order. Sleeps/entertains four. 12 volt marine battery runs cabin lights stereo and a DC outlet. Running lights need to be replaced and re-wired. AM/FM/CD/MP3 player with usb/aux jacks. Two speakers. Bilge pump included and plumbed but needs to be wired. An anchor and four life vests are included. The hull has a soft spot where it sits on the trailer bunk (see photo). It pops back out as soon as it is in the water. She may not be pretty but she is complete and can be sailed as-is. It is currently on its trailer in Western Colorado and is ready to be towed away by it's new owner. Delivery within a 200 mile radius can be arranged. Please make an offer as I am motivated to sell. Thank you.

ENSIGN 22.5-foot SLOOP with 5hp HONDA OUTBOARD and FOUR SAILS

ENSIGN 22.5-foot SLOOP with 5hp HONDA OUTBOARD and FOUR SAILS

$8,000

New York, New York

Year 1965

Make Pearson

Model Ensign

Category Daysailer Sailboats

Length 22.5

Posted Over 1 Month

In the words of the Ensign Association, "The Ensign is the largest class of full keel sailboats in North America, with over 2000 boats manufactured since 1962. Designed by Carl Alberg, its sustained popularity is due to very solid and durable construction, and a design that lends itself equally and admirably to comfortable family cruising, enjoyable day sailing, and close, strategic, tactical racing. As a family day sailor, the Ensign has a large, deep cockpit, with enough room to comfortably seat six to eight adults. Its full keel provides a secure, stable ride, and its three foot draft makes it perfect for the shallower waters of bays and lakes and for anchoring fairly close to a protected shore. The cabin space is more than adequate for keeping lots of gear dry, for providing immediate refuge from rainy weather, and can even sleep a couple of people... even more if they are friendly." The Ensign is also a fine racing boat, with fleets at several locations in the New York area."Azores" is in top condition. It has a mainsail, a working jib, and #1 and #2 genoas, all in top condition. The 2013 5hp Honda outboard engine is in excellent condition, with less than 25 hours of use. Included are a cockpit cover, a new marine radio; a new, unused head; a 9-foot rubber raft, never used; a wheeled cradle for winter storage, and an overboard ladder. The hull below the waterline and the woodwork were painted last winter. Although the boat lacks a spinnaker, it has all the deck hardware to mount a spinnaker. Hardware includes two coffee grinder winches, boom vang, two sets of jib sheets, a boom runner, and other hardware and lines.I bought "Azores" several years ago and find that at age 87 I can no longer easily manage it. "Azores" is moored at the Sheepshead Bay Yacht Club at 3076 Emmons Avenue, Brooklyn, New York 11235. I will deliver it there. A payment of $500 is due within three days of agreement. the balance is due on transfer of title.

1980 Catalina 27 Great Condition 1996 Honda Outboard Excellent Sails -Chesapeake

1980 Catalina 27 Great Condition 1996 Honda Outboard Excellent Sails -Chesapeake

$8,500

Arnold, Maryland

Year 1980

Make Catalina

Model 27

Category Sloop Sailboats

Length 26.9

Posted Over 1 Month

CATALINA 27 1980 Standard Rig Classic User-Friendly Design, Spacious and VERY CLEAN - Day-sail, Cruise, or Race! LOA 26'10" / BEAM 8'10" / HEADROOM 6'1" / DRAFT 4' / BERTHS 6 / HEAD / SINKS 2BEAUTIFUL Teak and Mahogany wood inside and out. Exterior teak is sanded and ready to be oiled or varnished. Decks are solid with no soft spots.All Sails recently surveyed: Main Sail rated GOOD + Roller Furling Genoa rated EXCELLENTCruising Spinnaker is practically new with sock!1996 Honda 15hp 4-Stroke Outboard with alternator. Also has bracket that takes motor completely out of the water - tuned up and professionally serviced.Interlux 2-Year Hard Anti-Fouling Bottom Paint end of last Summer.All Windows and frames removed, cleaned, and re-bedded with new gaskets/caulk last Summer. Major chainplates removed, checked and re-bedded also; other chainplates upgraded.Rigid Boomvang / Adjustable Backstay and Jib Blocks / NORTH Main w/ jiffy reefing / Furlex roller furling / Compass / Depth Finder110V (shore power) and 12V electrical system with NEW starting and house batteries / VHF / 2 Anchors / Bimini / Cockpit Cushions / 2-Burner alcohol stove / Icebox / Newer cushions (settees) Enclosed Head w/tank and pumpout - Freshwater operation and China bowlCabin leaks a little water when it rains - they all do at this age (at least I am honest about it)!Price will increase as I complete the few projects that remain. Boat is being sold as is.

1973 Shock Santana 21'  Cuddy Cabin Sail boat & 6 hp Outboard

1973 Shock Santana 21' Cuddy Cabin Sail boat & 6 hp Outboard

$2,100

Long Beach, California

Year 1973

Make Shock Santana

Model -

Category Daysailer Sailboats

Length 21.0

Posted Over 1 Month

73 Shock Santana 21' 3" Cuddy cabin, Sail Boat, with 6 HP Johnson Outboard motor current registration thru 2018, and current 2015 sticker. Boat is in the water at Pacific Yacht Landing, Wilmington, California. (No trailer) Slip is transferable 6 Passenger, Sleeps 4 Year: 1973 Make/Model: Schock Santana Sailboat Length: 21' 3" Beam: 7' 6" Boat Title: State of California Certificate of Ownership Registration: 8/31/2018 Hull Type: Fiberglass Hull Condition: Good Vessel Floor Condition: Good Exterior Condition: Good Upholstery Condition: Good Sitting Capacity: 6 Sleeping Capacity: 4 Transom Condition: Good Engine Included: Yes Engine 1973 Johnson Horsepower: 6 Hp Engine Type: Outboard Fuel Type: Gas (Engine Runs, Sailboat Type: Cuddy Cabin Keel: Retractable All Sails Included: Yes All Rigging: Yes Rigging: Sloop Included Items: Marine Radio, Compass, Life Jackets, Gas Cans, Shore Power, Fire Extinguisher, Bumpers, Fenders, Dock Lines, Anchor, Cushions, Swim Platform, 2 Tillers, Mast, Main Sail Cover, Main Sail, Foresail Jib, Outboard Mount.

1973 Shock Santana 21'  Cuddy Cabin Sail boat & 6 hp Outboard

1973 Shock Santana 21' Cuddy Cabin Sail boat & 6 hp Outboard

$2,100

Long Beach, California

Year 1973

Make Shock Santana

Model -

Category Daysailer Sailboats

Length 21.0

Posted Over 1 Month

73 Shock Santana 21' 3" Cuddy cabin, Sail Boat, with 6 HP Johnson Outboard motor current registration thru 2018, and current 2015 sticker. Boat is in the water at Pacific Yacht Landing, Wilmington, California. (No trailer) Slip is transferable 6 Passenger, Sleeps 4 Year: 1973 Make/Model: Schock Santana Sailboat Length: 21' 3" Beam: 7' 6" Boat Title: State of California Certificate of Ownership Registration: 8/31/2018 Hull Type: Fiberglass Hull Condition: Good Vessel Floor Condition: Good Exterior Condition: Good Upholstery Condition: Good Sitting Capacity: 6 Sleeping Capacity: 4 Transom Condition: Good Engine Included: Yes Engine 1973 Johnson Horsepower: 6 Hp Engine Type: Outboard Fuel Type: Gas (Engine Runs, Sailboat Type: Cuddy Cabin Keel: Retractable All Sails Included: Yes All Rigging: Yes Rigging: Sloop Included Items: Marine Radio, Compass, Life Jackets, Gas Cans, Shore Power, Fire Extinguisher, Bumpers, Fenders, Dock Lines, Anchor, Cushions, Swim Platform, 2 Tillers, Mast, Main Sail Cover, Main Sail, Foresail Jib, Outboard Mount.

Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619

Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619

$1

El Cajon, California

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category -

Length -

Posted Over 1 Month

We buy, sell, trade, tune-up, and repair all brands, years, sizes and lengths of outboard motors including: Johnson, Evinrude, Mercury, Sears, Wards, Mariner, British Seagull, SeaKing, Clinton, Elgin, Eska, Aero Marine, Gamefisher, Cruise'n Carry, Force, Ted Williams, and numerous others in addition to: Honda, Nissan, Suzuki, Tanaka, Tohatsu, Yamaha, etc. We also carry used propellers for most of the above brands (it is best to bring your old propeller or outboard with you for a perfect fit). We have some lower units, power tilt and trim units, various used electric starters and small electric trolling motors for sale (great for kids on a small boat on a lake). Turn-around time, for carry-in repairs is about 5 business days or less.(depending on parts availability). A larger motor attached to your boat usually takes 1 to 2 days. We also rebuild electric and pull-starters for all motors and we have a huge selection of used outboard motors for sale ranging from 1hp to 250hp. All our motors have been serviced and ready to go. We do remove and install large outboard motors of all sizes. Call Marty at 619 - 972 - 9998 to discuss your motor. If no answer, please leave a message and I will get back to you as soon as possible. Please repeat your phone number twice because sometimes it is not clear. Often we can help you fix your problem on the phone at no cost. (Please no E-mails or texts). When you bring it in, we will give your outboard motor a compression and spark test, diagnose your engine, and tell you what it needs in repairs to get it back in good running condition. We will repair your motor at your request, answer your questions and make suggestions. Most of our business is by recommendation of satisfied customers. We will do everything possible to make you one. If we do not have the size or brand of outboard that you are looking for, ask us to put your name on our list and we will call you if and when such an outboard arrives. ------------------------------------- USEFUL TIPS & INFORMATION: ------------------------------ (1) All 2 stroke outboard engines made after 1963 require a 50:1 mixture (3 ounces of 2 stroke outboard motor oil per gallon of gas). The actual amount is 2.6 ounces per gallon (a little extra won't hurt, but less can cause severe damage to your engine). NOTE: NEVER use 100:1 as recommended by some manufacturers. It will cause your engine to lose compression and die prematurely. The only lubrication that your engine gets is from the oil that is mixed with the gas, therefore use 50:1 to be safe. (2) Older outboards (pre 1963) require double the amount of oil 25:1 mixture (6 ounces per gallon), some require a 16:1 mixture (8 ounces per gallon), and BRITISH SEAGULL engines require a 10:1 mixture (13 ounces per gallon). (3) 4 stroke outboards do not need oil mixed with the gas. Make sure the crankcase is full of oil (check the dipstick). If by mistake you ran your 4 stroke with oil mixed with gas do not be concerned. It's OK. (4) Always carry a minimum amount of tools like screwdrivers (blade and Phillips head), socket set including a spark plug socket, combination wrenches, vice grips, pliers, fire extinguisher, drift or punch to drive out a broken shear pin, a can of WD - 40, and a spray can of carburetor cleaner for starting emergencies, and a few extra new spark plugs (pre-gapped) in case yours become fouled, a new gas filter if your gas line has one, a tire pressure gauge, a long magnet and (extra-long) forceps (in case you drop a nut or a bolt), and a small flashlight. AVOID USING STARTER FLUID because it contains ether (bad for outboards). Also carry a pair of extra shear pins and cotter pins (for most outboards less than 35hp). And also a few small hose clamps to tighten a loose or leaking fuel line (see tip #53 below). (5) For small outboards under 40hp, keep the clamp handle screws greased so they will not freeze up from oxidation or salt. (6) For all outboards that have remote steering, grease the steering cable often if you go out in salt water to prevent the cable from "seizing up" and causing a costly repair. (7) For all outboards, starting it several times a year keeps everything "limber". (8) For all outboards, flushing your outboard in fresh water for 5 minutes after each saltwater use will prevent costly cooling system repairs. NOTE: Do not flush your motor in saltwater. Use a barrel, or a garden hose hooked up to outboard "earmuffs" or any other device made for your motor. (9) If you carry your small outboard motor in the bed of a pick-up truck, always tie it down securely or it might break the tiller or shift handle by rolling. (10) For all outboards, check your propeller for broken blades or chunks missing from any blade. Operating any outboard with uneven prop blades will cause vibration and damage to seals and other internal parts of the lower unit. Also it is best to carry a spare prop. (Approx. cost $50 for a used one) . (11) Spray a thin coat of WD 40 all around the powerhead of your outboard. It will not make your engine run better, but it will protect it from rust and salt deposits. (12) For pull start outboards, check the entire pull cord for signs of wear. You wouldn't want to break a pull cord when you are out fishing. (13) For electric start outboards, always carry 2 fully charged batteries in case one battery loses its charge. (14) For small (tiller steering) outboards up to 35hp, attach a short chain, cable or heavy rope (one end attached to your outboard's clamp section, and the other end attached to the transom of your boat) as a safety to prevent your motor from falling overboard. (15) For all outboards, in the event that you remove the top cowling to check your engine, put the cowling down away from the edge of the boat since any wave might send the cowling to the bottom of the ocean or lake. It will be difficult to locate a replacement. (16) For all outboards, most engine failure is a result of overheating. Always check the temp. gauge (if you have one) or by watching the "pisser". If you see steam coming out, shut the engine to avoid costly damage. Check the bottom of the lower unit to see if you picked up some vegetation, or a plastic bag which may be blocking your water intake. If you do not find anything, you may have a bad impeller or a bad water-pump housing. The best thing to do is, try (if possible) to get towed back by any good natured person in the area, or call "VESSEL ASSIST". If you do not have "Vessel Assist Insurance", it will be quite costly. To avoid all of the above, it is best to change your impeller every 2 years or sooner. Whether you use your outboard frequently, occasionally, or just once in 2 years, it is time more than wear that ruins the impeller. (17) If you own a boat (any kind), always remember to replace the drain plug in the stern (rear) before you go out, or the boat will slowly fill with water. This event happens to everyone at some time. It is best to make a check list and review it before you launch. (Also keep a spare drain plug near the drain-hole in your boat in case the original one gets "lost"). (18) For portable outboards, it is best (if possible) to mount the motor on land before you launch in the ocean, because any wave can cause you to drop your motor while you are mounting it. (19) For outboards with an integral gas tank (one that is built-in to your engine), always carry extra fuel and a FUNNEL, or much of the extra gas will be lost when pouring to re-fill your integral tank. (20) For pull-start outboards and some bigger electric starting engines, you should have a separate emergency starter rope with a handle in case your starter spring fails, or the rope tears, or the electric starter or battery fails. (21) For all outboards, it is wise to remove the propeller after several times of use, in order to remove the fishing line that sometimes collects there. This fishing line can cut through the prop seal and cause the lower unit to leak oil and take in water. (a costly repair). (22) Gasoline should be fresh (not more than 6 months old). If you choose to keep it longer, add the correct amount of STABIL. (23) For all trailered boats, (large and small) you should check the transom of your boat for stress cracks (caused by the motor bouncing because of bumps in the road). To prevent such cracks you should get a TRANSOM SAVER which takes the weight off your boat's transom and transfers it to the trailer. (It costs about $75, and can save you thousands). (24) For all outboards, check the lower unit gear oil. It should be dark brown or black in color. Water or coffee-n-cream color in the oil indicates a lower unit seal problem. Smelly/stinky oil is usually OK as long as the color is good. The gear oil should be changed annually. (25) For outboards up to 35hp, if you cannot get the boat to plane, try adjusting the tilt pin. If the boat still rides with its "nose" high in the air, it is probably because you have too much weight in the rear or (you may possibly have the wrong length lower unit). One remedy is to install a "WHALE TAIL" on the cavitation plate of your outboard to cause a greater lift in the rear. (It costs about $50). (26) For all boat trailers, you should get a BEARING BUDDY for each wheel. Its purpose is to keep the whole hub and wheel bearings greased and to prevent any water from entering the bearing zone when you back into the water. Keep it full of grease (with a grease gun). Without BEARING BUDDYS you can expect the bearings to seize-up sometime when you are trailering. You might snap an axle, lose control of your trailer, drop your boat off the trailer onto the road, or worse. BEARING BUDDYS are inexpensive and easy to put on. They can be found at any boat shop or automotive parts place. (27) For outboard engines that are partially submerged in saltwater for 3 months or longer, you can expect the lower unit's aluminum housing to begin disintegrating (dissolving). If you cannot keep the lower unit out of the saltwater, you should attach some zinc anodes to the cavitation plate. They will help save your lower unit. Cost of anodes $5 - $55 at any boat shop. (28) For all do-it-yourselfers, it is best to put grease or NEVER SEIZE on all the bolts that you remove and replace, to prevent rust and salt build-up on those bolts. (29) For all outboards, service your engine regularly. To do so not only prevents problems, but allows you or your mechanic to grease all the bolts that are removed and replaced so that those bolts will come out easily "without breaking" in the future. (30) For electric start outboards, at the first sign of starter trouble, get the starter serviced before you take the boat out fishing. Be happy that it gave you a warning. (31) It would be wise to carry an extra fuel tank "quick connector" fitting that "snaps" into your engine fuel fitting. The "O" ring that they all have sometimes goes bad causing the engine to suck too much air instead of fuel. The engine will then stall or run poorly. Cost about $7 - $20. (32) We sell many large 2 stroke outboards to unfortunate people who relied on their automatic oil feeders known as "VRO". We suggest that you disconnect your VRO and add oil to your gas the old fashioned way. Your engine can become totally ruined within seconds when your VRO fails. Don't take our word for this suggestion. Ask other outboard mechanics for their opinions. . (33) It is suggested that you do not go full throttle on any outboard, because it over-stresses your motor. You should use about 95% of your maximum power. This can be accomplished by putting in a "stop" near the end of your throttle or just remembering to back off a little. This should save gas, wear and tear to your engine, thus making it last longer. (It is similar to driving your car with the gas pedal to the floor) (34) For outboards that use portable gasoline tanks (2-12 gallons), it is wise to use a good plastic or aluminum gas tank. (An aluminum tank is hard to find). The reason for using aluminum or plastic is because they will never rust. A rusty tank will probably clog your gas filter or carburetor when the rust-dust gets there. You should keep the plastic tank away from the direct rays of the sun which will cause it to become brittle and crack. You should replace your plastic gas tank after a few years as needed. (35) For all outboards, never store your outboard motor upside down or it may seize from the water residue that will drain into the powerhead causing the internal parts to rust. It is best to store it vertically. (36) For small outboards (carrying type), it is wise to run your motor out of fuel before you take it off your boat. The reason is to prevent the gas that remains in the carburetor from spilling onto the carpet in your car or trunk when you lie the motor down. (37) For outboards that are bolted to the transom of a fiberglass boat, make sure that MARINE silicone is used to coat the mounting bolts and to fill the mounting bolt holes. Apply the silicone liberally. This will prevent water from getting into the bolt holes and save your transom from rotting. Behind the fiberglass is wood. The wood will rot over time if water gets to it. (38) For all outboards, never run your engine "dry" (without water) or it will seriously damage your impeller within 1 minute. You might not realize this, and the next time you go out boating or fishing your engine may overheat. (39) For all trailerable boats, it is wise to attach a safety chain from the "pulling-eye" at the front of your boat to the area near the winch. If your pulling strap suddenly breaks, the safety chain will stop your boat from coming off the trailer in transit. (40) For all outboards, when you change the gear oil, be certain that when you replace the oil screws, that each of the 2 screws has a plastic (or composition) flat washer to prevent oil from leaking out and water from leaking in. Sometimes the washers get stuck in the "screw well". That is OK. Replace the screws and tighten securely. NOTE: If the flat washer is missing, DO NOT replace with an "O" ring. It will surely fail. (41) For all outboards, it is wise to replace the lower oil drain screw with a magnetic elongated drain screw. It will catch any small loose steel particles that break off within the gearcase, warning you that a problem may be developing there. Approx. cost for a magnetic oil screw $8.00 at any boat shop. (42) For all outboards, when changing gears from NEUTRAL to FORWARD, or from NEUTRAL to REVERSE, first lower your speed to minimum. Do not "ease" the shifter into place. Be decisive! Slowly shifting into forward or reverse will cause the gears to grind and lead to costly repairs. (43) For all sailboats with outboard motors, be certain that your outboard motor does not pick-up out of the water when the sailboat rocks. One remedy is to lower the engine mount (if possible), or get an outboard motor with a longer shaft, or else the impeller may become damaged and fail, causing your outboard to overheat. (44) For 2 stroke outboards, it is wise to add outboard motor oil at the same time that you purchase gas. Waiting until you get home increases the chance that you will forget to add oil. Running your outboard without oil can destroy your engine within 15 seconds (a very costly error). (45) For small 4 stroke engines, when transporting your outboard off the boat or when storing it, it is best to keep it in a vertical position. If you must lie it down, make sure that it lies according to the manufacturer's instructions. Lying it down on the wrong side will cause the engine oil to seep out. Always check the oil level with the dipstick before you start any 4 stroke outboard. If your engine oil level is low, you can add any standard automotive oil. (46) To tell if a boat leaks without taking it to a lake or ocean, use a garden hose to fill the bottom of the boat with water. If the water leaks out of the bottom, the boat surely has a leak and it may show you exactly where to repair it. (47) Be smart: DO NOT LEND YOUR OUTBOARD MOTOR OR MOTORBOAT TO ANYONE. If you do, don't be surprised by the motor problems you will have have when it is returned. (48) For uncovered boats left outside between usages, remove the drain plug so your boat will not fill up with rainwater. Check the drain hole periodically to remove leaves, dirt, etc. Be sure to replace the drain plug before you go boating. (49) For all boats that are trailered, it is unwise to tow even a short distance without one or 2 spare tires. If you get a flat tire and have no spare, you can expect a mostly ruined fishing or boating day. I recommend 2 spare tires because in the event that you use your spare because of a flat tire, you no longer have a spare. NOTE: Many people prevent weathering of their spares by carrying them in their trunk. (50) For all trailer users, it is wise to have a 12 volt tire inflator that plugs into your cigarette lighter or attaches to your car battery. If your trailer tires are low they could possibly blow-out or become flat. A 12 volt tire inflator will take a few minutes to restore the required air pressure etched on the tire by the manufacturer. Cost: $15-$40. (51) It is wise to make a check- list of all the things you will need when you go boating or fishing so you will not forget anything. Write it on thick stiff paper so it will not crumble and can be used repeatedly, and you can add to the list as needed. (52) For all outboards, if your motor runs in neutral but it will not move in forward or reverse, it might have broken shear pin, or a faulty propeller, or a loose shift rod. Do not assume that the gears are bad until you eliminate those 3 items. (53) For all outboards, check all gasoline hoses. Today's gasoline contains alcohol which hardens and /or deteriorates most old hoses. They rot from the inside and cause problems with your carburetor and /or sometimes cause a dangerous gas leak and loss of power. It would be wise to change the hoses annually to prevent problems. The cost of hoses is approx. $2-$10 at any automotive shop. Bring a sample with you. Make sure that the new hoses are alcohol resistant. (54) For all sailboats that are in slips and use outboard motors mounted onto an outside kicker bracket. When mounting or removing your outboard it is wise to maneuver your boat so that the outboard motor is over the floating dock. This can be accomplished by backing up your sailboat so that the motor is not directly above water, but above the walkway. The purpose is to prevent the outboard from falling out of your hands when mounting or dismounting it. Many people have dropped their outboards into the water by trying to mount them while leaning over the stern. (55) For all trailers, make sure that the ball is securely fastened to the coupler before pulling the trailer. Sometimes the coupler "looks" as though it is fastened, but it is not. The trailer may become undone and cause havoc on the road. It only takes a few seconds to carefully check it before you tow. COST: zero, SAVINGS: perhaps a life. (56) For all trailerable boats, always check your trailer lights. The cops are out there with spare tickets anxiously waiting to give them out. It is also safer if all your lights are working. Backing your trailer into a lake or saltwater will often ruin your trailer lights. The cost of repairing the lights is considerably less than the cost of a ticket and a loss of time at the courthouse. P.S. You can also get a ticket if your safety chain is not properly attached. (57) For all outboards it is wise to buy or make any device that will stop or slow down a thief who would like to steal your engine. If it takes a thief more than I minute to remove your engine, he will probably go elsewhere. It is best if everyone made their own device so that the thief will not be able to figure out a system for fast removal. (58) For all outboards, always carry a metal scraper, or stainless steel wool, or at least some emery cloth, or sandpaper. Sometimes your motor will not start because the battery cable terminals are dirty or corroded, or other wire terminals or ground connections may be corroded. The emery cloth or sandpaper may restore a clean connection to wherever it is needed. (59) For all outboards sitting idle for long periods of time, check the wires (not the spark plug wires) by shaking them with your fingers. If the insulation is brittle and crumbles you must replace the wires before starting your engine because they might short-out and cause costly damage to your electrical components. They can also cause a fire under the hood. This happens mostly to old Mercury outboards, but it can happen to any brand. (60) If you made a checklist, add this to it: Swing or crank the trailer jack wheel up and out of the way after attaching your hitch, or it might get damaged or break off when pulling the boat for as little as a few inches. (61) For small outboards (up to 25hp), if you notice that your outboard is not "pissing" water, don't panic. It might be a clogged "pee" hole or a clogged intake. Check if the engine is HOT. If it IS HOT shut it down immediately. If it is NOT HOT, push a wire (the thickness of a paper clip) into the "pee" hole. This might open the clogged passage. Also check the intake screen (at the bottom of the engine near the propeller) for debris. (62) For all outboards, if you remove your propeller (for any reason), before you put it back on, it is wise to grease the propeller shaft to prevent the propeller from "freezing" to the propeller shaft (because of salt and/or rust). If the propeller is already " frozen" and it will not come off (after you tried tapping it with a hammer and cussing), you may have to cut it off with an electric hand grinder or something similar. Sometimes a propane torch will burn out the rubber insert that holds the propeller together. Neither method is pleasant. A little grease now can save you a lot of time and money in the future. NOTE: Do not hit the propeller hard with a hammer or you might bend the propeller shaft which will cause costly internal lower unit damage when you go boating. (63) For all boat owners, it is advisable to purchase liability insurance for your vessel because you are responsible for any damage or injury that is caused by your boat or its wake. (64) For most gas tanks (metal and plastic), do not fill to the top with gas. Give the gasoline room to expand during hot weather, or the pressure inside the tank may cause the gas to overflow, the tank to rupture, distort, or generate small cracks at its top etc. Sometimes the cracks may not be visible, but during the rainy season (unknown to you) water may seep into the tank through those cracks. You will not be able to start your engine if there is water in the gas. (65) For all saltwater fishermen, it is wise to carry a thermos of HOT water or coffee in case you catch a sculpin and get stuck by its poisonous fins. Pouring HOT water on the injury will immediately neutralize the poison. Using cold water to stop the pain will make it worse. Ask your medical doctor. (66) For all outboard motors, if your motor runs great with the hood off, but runs terrible with the hood on, you may have an exhaust leak that is fouling your carburetor. Consult your mechanic for a remedy. (67) For all outboards, if you hear electrical arcing, pulsating or buzzing noises when it is running, you may have an electrical problem. A good way to investigate the problem is to run the outboard at night where it is dark and look below the hood. If you see sparks, clean and tighten the connections or change the part that is sparking as soon as possible because the sparks can start a fire. (68) For all boat trailers, if you notice that your boat is sagging to one side, the trailer may have a broken leaf in its set of springs. If so, get it fixed promptly before another leaf breaks because of the added stress. (69) For all outboards, check the water intake near the bottom of your motor for a broken or "plugged-up" screen. Clean or replace if broken. (70) For all boat, car, and truck owners, if you have a build-up of acid corrosion on your battery post, pour very hot water onto it. The corrosion will immediately vanish. (71) For outboards over 10 years old that have foam-rubber glued to the inside of the hood by the manufacturer, be sure to REMOVE ALL OF IT by any means because the foam will flake-off and plug up your carburetor. DO IT NOW!!! Also remove any dust, or leaves because your carburetor will suck any loose material into it like a vacuum cleaner. (72) For all outboards, it is wise to start and run your outboard at home for 10 minutes before you go out boating or fishing. Sometimes your motor will not start. You do not want to have trouble starting at the lake or ocean. It is best to deal with the problem on land. Be sure not to start it without water. (73) For all boat trailers, you will need a jack and a lug-wrench that fits your trailer's lug nuts. If they are rusty you may need a length of steel pipe to give you more leverage with the lug wrench. (It also helps to spray W-40 on everything during removal). (74) It is wise to often check the tire pressure in your spare tire because it may be very low. It can lose air, by just "sitting". (75) To determine if your (questionable) boat battery is good, it will need a "load test". For an accurate reading, you should charge-up your battery for about 2-3 hrs. A load test takes about 10 seconds. Most auto parts shops will load test your battery for free. (76) For all outboards, many of them take about 1-2 minutes to warm up. In that time your motor may stall, misfire, run-rough, etc. It may need more choke or less choke depending on how much gas is in the carburetor or carburetors (if you have more than one). Be sure that the "pump-up ball" is hard and the carburetor(s) is full of gas. (77) For all boaters, you can expect that at some time in the future your outboard motor will not start or re-start while you are out fishing. If you can afford it, it is wise to carry an auxiliary motor, or mount one on the stern. It should be between 4 hp and 25 hp depending on the size of your boat. It can also be used to save gas when you are slow-trolling for fish. (78) For all 2 stroke outboards, if you notice oil "leaking" near the foot of the motor, it is NORMAL because all the oil in the gas that went into the engine for lubrication must either "burn" or drip-out after the motor is shut down. It is wise to use an oil drip pan under the lower unit to prevent a stain on your driveway or elsewhere. (79) For users of small boats that use outboards, to avoid painful blisters bring along a pair of leather gloves along with oars in case your motor won't start and you have to row. NOTE: Most boaters are aware of the above suggestions, but not everyone. I hope that I may have saved someone the inconvenience of having a bad day on the water. If I think of any more tips, I will add them to the list. Perhaps you should make a copy of the tips as a reminder.

1985 Bluewater Ingrid

1985 Bluewater Ingrid

$29,895

Muskegon, Michigan

Year 1985

Make Bluewater

Model Ingrid

Category Sailboats

Length 38'

Posted Over 1 Month

1985 Bluewater Ingrid The Ingrid 38 from the pen of William Atkin is a heavy displacement blue water cutter derived from Colin Archer's famous double ender designed North Sea pilot boats, which in turn were inspired by Viking boats renowned for their heavy weather characteristics. Perhaps Atkin sums it up best by saying it's "the kind of boat that behaves herself in rough water and can be depended upon to sail herself". (To that part we do hear frequent mentions of the superb one-finger-on-tiller tracking and a comfortable ride.) With her old world style, Josette's a good looking boat with a sheer line reminiscent of Crealock's famous Westsail 32. Her seaworthiness is there to see in her full keel, heavy displacement and overbuilt construction. Her hull is heavily hand laid in fiberglass. There's robust outboard chain plates and an outboard rudder protected by extra fiberglass and a large bronze shoe casting should she scrub the bottom. Atkin's main rework on the Ingrid 38 from Archer's original design was finer entry on the bow which 'cushions' her landing off the waves and even may increase speed slightly. Below the waterline she has a long full keel with deep v-sections forward keeping her stable in the rough. The ballast is encapsulated and is distributed from bow to stern, to keep the weight as low as possible. Rounding this off, there's plenty of flotation designed in her ends, fore and aft which helps keep her dry. The trade off of heavy displacement and ultimate stability is usually in speed so the Ingrid 38 is not considered fast. By the numbers, her hull speed works out at 7.2 knots but she'll more often manage a consistent 6 knots while cruising. Surprisingly she's known to sail pretty well in light airs, as owners report she'll do half the wind speed in up to 8 knots of wind. However, she's a boat that comes into her own in heavier seas. The cutter rig gives plenty of options on all points of sail and she's an easy boat to single-hand. Josette is her original name and she has spent most all of her life in fresh water. She only spent one year in salt water in 1985, her original launch year. This is a one-owner vessel. The hull was built in 1974 by Bluewater Yachts in Washington state and it is reported that these are the same builders that build the Nordic Tugs. The interior cabin sides (ceiling) were finished in planking by the original owner. The hull is foam insulated to keep you cool when it is hot outside and warm when it is cold outside. The galley area is a great work space for any type of cooking. The mast is anodized aluminum construction by MetalMast Marine, with internal halyards. The hull is solid fiberglass construction and does have some gel coat surface blisters above the waterline, but they do not appear to be structural. She recently had the following engine work accomplished: new head gasket, two new exhaust valves, injector service,

1982 Catalina 25' sailboat

1982 Catalina 25' sailboat

$5,000

New York, New York

Year 1982

Make Catalina 25'

Model -

Category Sailboats

Length 25.0

Posted Over 1 Month

Up for sale today is a 1985 Catalina 25' sailboat , this boat is exceptionally clean and dry boat with a large cabin that sleeps five adults ,boost a marine head with holding tank. A galley equips with sink with running water, alcohol two burner stove and top loading icebox. The duel battery supplies lighting thru out the cabin and forward berth and power to the well maintained 15 HP electric mercury outboard motor. The outboard can be started by just the push of a butting or by pull start. This boat boosts a large cotpit area; the sail are in very good condition with the headsail mounted on a Harkin roller furlor for ease of deployment from the cotpit.