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Sailboat, 21ft, Gaff topsail cutter rig, motor, trailer, 8 sails, rigging

Sailboat, 21ft, Gaff topsail cutter rig, motor, trailer, 8 sails, rigging

$4,000

Adams Run, South Carolina

Category Cruiser Motorcycles

Length 21.0

Posted Over 1 Month

This is Hull #1, 1961, Windjammer 21's from California, designed by Morgan Embrogan and built in Southern California back in the 60's and early 70's by various commercial builders. There were at least 15 built and I have a gaff-rigged, topsail cutter. This Windjammer sailed to Hawaii and back from California twice and to Alaska and back to CA. boats have very easily folded masts, even under sail, fit into US containers (24). The Windjammer 21 will sleep 4 in separate bunks and is very comfortable under way and in the slip. With quadrant centerboard up it draw 18 inches and weight empty is 2500#. It has always been great in the Channel Islands because it cuts over the kelp and because it is so light we used to tie off to the kelp (don't shoot me) to keep from carrying 600' feet of line and extra chain necessary to normal anchor around the islands. Boat is in Charleston, SC now on a trailer. Steel trailer has 4 new tires, wheels, bearings, recently pulled from Florida. 6 bags of sails, all rigging, outboard in a well, boat is ready to sail but could use some TLC, paint, varnish, etc. Photo of Black hull boat is a sistership. Could deliver for a fee if needed after purchase.

24 ft NEPTUNE SAILBOAT POP TOP WITH YAMAHA MOTOR

24 ft NEPTUNE SAILBOAT POP TOP WITH YAMAHA MOTOR

$2,995

Slidell, Louisiana

Category Cruiser Motorcycles

Length 24.0

Posted Over 1 Month

1980 24 ft Neptune sailboat nice little weekender are live aboard for single are couple . it has a 4 stroke Yamaha 2.5 1999 motor like new . pushes sailboat great . sails are in good shape . loa 24 lwl 21 beam 8 draft 2 to 3.6 displacement 3200 lbs pop up top for more head room at dock main sail 130 genoa sail hinged mast deck step all running lights working vhf radio new bilge pump new water pump with 25 gallon fresh water tank head ice box window unit air mounted under step 2 double berths 2 single berths claims to sleep 6 loads of storage for a its size very clean and pretty for its age sails great lots of fun on the lake motor was just tuned and new water pump added battery good all light it cabin work could us cushions recovered we just covered them with terry cloth sheets looks good . anchor screens swim ladder and more stuff . vessel is at oak harbor marine in slidell la dock fees is 120 month on a month to month lease are 96 month for a yr lease and yes you can live aboard here . very nice marina with showers laundry and close to town and stores . VERY NICE MARINA LOCATED 30 MINUTES TO NEW ORLEANS RIGHT ON THE LAKE .45 MINUTES TO BOLIXI MS AND CASINOS WE ARE LIVE ABOARD NOW AND HAVE RETIRED HERE AND LOVE THE AREA !!!!! VESSEL IS FOR SALE LOCALY SO WE HAVE THE RIGHT TO END SELL IF IT SELLS LOCALY !!!!!!!!!!! WE CAN HELP MOVE THE SAILBOAT TO ANY MARINA ON THE GULF COAST FOR COST PLUS EXPENSES !!!!! call 256 689 6344 email [email protected] reason we are selling have to many boats !!! 2995.00 are best cash offer no scams cash only no checks MANY MORE PICS ON PHONE I CAN SEND !! CANT GET ALL THE PICTURES TO UPLOAD

1982 47' Formosa Peterson Center Cockpit Cruiser Sailboat

1982 47' Formosa Peterson Center Cockpit Cruiser Sailboat

$67,500

Key West, Florida

Year -

Make -

Model -

Category -

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Posted Over 1 Month

Located on the doorsteps to the Caribbean in Key West Florida.For a full set of pictures and to see some shots from our sailing adventures with the boat visit www.formosa46.com Normal 0 false false false EN-US JA X-NONE Known around the world as one of the fastest center cockpits ever built, this Doug Peterson design offers the offshore cruising layout with a comfortable aft cabin with separate cockpit access as well salon entrance.The forward cabin offers a large V Berth, and Queen size berth in Master, both staterooms offer private adjacent Head Compartments with showers. She is a well maintained example of the beautiful Old World Craftsmanship in the cabinetry and joinery in the varnished teak interior.Bear Sniff has had a multitude of updates including Electronics and Instruments, 500W Wind Generator, Recently Varnished Deck Woodwork, Life Raft, RIB Dinghy With Engine, Asymmetrical Spinnaker, Complete New Running Rigging, New Heads, All Sails Reinforced for Cruising, New Antifouling New Thru Hull Valves, Updated mechanicals and all winches professionally serviced.Please see full specs below for complete details. Bear Sniff is powered by a Ford Lehman 2712E Engine, has Marine 16KBTU Reverse Cycle AC, can sleep six and is a fine example of a world cruiser, or Spacious Liveaboard. With her abundant number of recent upgrades Bear Sniff is a much desired cruiser.Bear Sniff features an offshore curising layout with a comfortable aft cabin with a separate cockpit access hatch as well a salon entrance. The Aft cabin includes a head with shower to port and a spacious double berth.The forward cabin is a large V-Berth with a second head located to port just aft of the cabin with plenty of storage opposite. The Nav Station is located at the aft starboard corner of the salon.The L Shaped Galley is opposite with tile countertops, and the folding dining table seats six, extending the length of the salon. Port and Starboard are comfortable settees that can double as berths. The excellent craftsmanship is apparent in the lovely varnished teak interior throughout plus teak and holly sole. DimensionsLOA: 47 ft 1 inBeam: 13 ft 0 inLWL: 40 ft 0 inLength on Deck: 47 ft 1 inMinimum Draft: 6 ft 3 inMaximum Draft: 6 ft 3 inDisplacement: 33000 lbsBallast: 11330 lbs EnginesEngine 1:Engine Brand: Ford LehmanEngine Model: 2712EEngine Type: InboardEngine/Fuel Type: DieselEngine(s) Total Power: 80 HPTanksFresh Water Tanks: (150 Gallons)Fuel Tanks: (100 Gallons)Holding Tanks: (20 Gallons)AccommodationsNumber of single berths: 2Number of double berths: 2Number of cabins: 2Number of heads: 2Outside Equipment/ExtrasTotal Liferaft Capacity: 6Manual windlassGalleyMicrowave Oven Kenyon Marine Stove with Oven12V Refrigeration with frost condenser & Super cool Air cooled compressorHot/Cold Pressure Fresh WaterFull Kitchen UtensilsNew Water Pressure Pump(2) Vacuum CleanersNew Potable Water Filter(4) Cabin FansRoom Air Filter(4) Cabin Pillows(4)Sets of Blankets & PillowsFull Galleyware of pots, plates, cups etc.(2) Deep S/S Sinks Electrical8KW 110V Westerbeke Genset (rebuilt 2006) New 500 Watt Wind Generator & Battery Charger (not fitted) 110V to 12V Electrical Panel rewired Dec 2012NEW 20 amp Smart Battery Charger(2) Group 29 House BatteriesGroup 29 Engine Start BatteriesGroup 27 Gen-Set Battery(2) 30 amp Shore Power CordsBluetooth Stereo12V & 110V Electrical Panel Recently Rewired(4) Cabin Fans (not fitted) ElectronicsEPIRBAIS & DSC VHF and New AntennaeRaymarine Smart Pilot and Hydraulic Autohelm UnitNew Icom Backup VHF M 35 w/New Whip AntennaeMast Antennae Replaced 9-13Raymarine Autopilot (hydraulic drive)NEW 2012 Lowrance HDS-7 Chart Plotter w/ High Resolution Depth SounderRaymarine i70 Smart Display Control UnitB & G Wind, speed, Depth InstrumentsRadar Reflector26” LCD TVBluetooth Stereo/CD PlayerDeckHull antifouled and all anodes replaced (Sept 2013) Danforth Anchor#45 Delta AnchorCQR AnchorSmall Danforth Dinghy AnchorRIB Dinghy w/ 2.5hp EngineFoot Pump for DinghyManual Simpson Lawrence WindlassCockpit TableCockpit PillowsCockpit SpeakersCaptains Chair PillowSix person Offshore Life Raft(2) Inflating offshore Life Jacket w/ Harness(2) Inflating Coastal Life Jackets(2) HarnessesOne set of jacking straps(4) Thru-Hull Valves Replaced 2013All Deck Woodwork re-oiled Sept 2013(4) Sets of Strobe Lights, Whistles, Sea Dye, Glow SticksFull set of Flares, including Flare Gun, Flag & Spare Cartridges(3) NEW Fire Extinguishers(1) New Safety DrogueBimini(5) FendersBarge BoardNumerous Ropes & SheetsBinocularsHammockSails & RiggingComplete New Running Rigging Professionally replaced and installed Dec 2012 Full Batten Quantum Mainsail New 2006, reinforced Dec. 2012 for cruising w/deep second reef point130% Quantum Genoa New 2006, reinforced Dec. 2012Staysail (excellent condition)Asymmetrical spinnaker & BagComplete New Running RiggingSail CoverHarken Roller Furling(4) Winch HandlesS/S Standing RiggingALLWINCHES PROFESSIONALLY SERVICED DEC 2012(2) Barient 32 Two Speed Primary Winches(2) Barlow 25 Two Speed Winches one on Combing, one on Coachhouse(3) Barient 21 Two Speed Winch on Combing(4) Barlow 25 Two Speed Mainsheet WinchBarlow 20, 21, and Aqualast 22 Two Speed Winches on MastEngines & Mechanical80HP Ford Lehman engine7 amp Altenator(2) Fuel Tanks w/Racor Oil/Water Separator (approx 100 gal)(3) Water Tanks (approx 200 gallonsHolding Tank (approx. 30 gallon)Recently refurbished Water Pump Sept. 2013Oil & Filters Changed Every 100 hoursManual and Automatic bilge Pumps110V Air Conditioning(2) Heads Replaced Dec 2012(3) Portable Diesel Tanks(1) Gas TankOil Vacuum PumpMacerator Pump$3000 Full Set of Tools for everything you want to do on boardNumerous Spares (Screws, washers, rope, cable, bilge pumps, impellors, fixtures etc)Full Set of Spare Oil, Fuel, & Water Filters Contact me for a full list of equipment not included in the sale. Mainly personal effects etc. If you have any questions or wish to arrange an inspection feel free to contact me to discuss.________________________________________________________________________________ In answer to the many of the questions posed to me here are a few more details:- I've owned the boat for two years. Initially it was purchased in Houston with big plans to sail the Caribbean but life unfortunately got in the way. During that time I've refit many of the items on the boat and this is outlined above.- Yes the boat can be viewed in Key West, Florida, USA. For those that are interested message me and I'll give you the contact details of my local Key West broker.- The boat is currently Australian registered but will be de-registered as part of the sale. So the new owner can get the boat re-registered with the USCG.- Yes the boat is capable of offshore voyages, but no I wouldn't jump in this tomorrow and sail across the Pacific. Not due to any structural fault in the boat. I would add better water storage, a water maker, fit the wind vane, purchase some spare sails, fit a full bimini cover etc. before committing to such a voyage. Of course you would want to have had a lot of experience offshore before crossing the North Atlantic.- More images of the boat and the trips we've taken can be found at www.formosa46.com- No I will not trade for another boat unless someone has a similar size/condition vessel in Australia.- Yes the price is negotiable within reason as are the sale terms. Please contact me to discuss.- The boat is very well equipped with all the safety gear you could ever hope for and is in a good condition.

MacGregor 26 Swing Keel Sailboat / Trailer in Excellent Condition ready WI Sail!

MacGregor 26 Swing Keel Sailboat / Trailer in Excellent Condition ready WI Sail!

$7,890

Egg Harbor, Wisconsin

Category Sailboats

Length 26.0

Posted Over 1 Month

The MacGregor 26S MacGregor 26 Swing Keel Sailboat 1994 with Trailer in Excellent Condition ready to Sail! This is a 1994 MacGregor 26S Sailboat with trailer and 8 hp outboard motor in excellent condition. It accepts a 2 inch ball mount trailer hitch. The total trailer weight is about 2000 lbs, so pretty much any V-6 vehicle can tow this without any extra equipment. Any Minivan for example will work fine. It includes everything needed to sail. Three sails including a main, a roller furling Genoa and a drifter / spinnaker are included . This sailboat is wheel steered with binnacle mounted motor remote controls and instruments. Everything is in excellent condition and the trailer tires are brand new Goodyear Marathon trailer tires. It also has an extra motor mount for a trolling motor or small outboard secondary engine. This boat has many upgrades including wheel steering and a Rudder Craft Mac 26S HDPE High Performance Replacement Rudder as well as the stock rudder as a spare, a MMSD pump out porta toilet, a CDI roller furling Genoa and a main sail cover as well as life lines and bow and stern pulpits, a swim ladder, a solar panel and an Autohelm ST 30 Bidata to name a few. The 8 HP Tohatsu (Nissan) outboard model M8B also has electric start and an alternator. The MacGregor 26S, 1990 to 1995, replaced the dagger board with a swing centerboard (which kicks up in an accidental grounding) and made other smaller changes. Together, the 26D and 26S are often called the "classic" MacGregor 26, and sometimes the 26C. Owners of these earlier models tend to refer to them as "the real sailboats" prior to the changes coming with the MacGregor 26X. The V-berth can handle 2 people/kids and has storage underneath, the settee can accommodate another person and plenty more storage under there, in the cabin galley /kitchen area is a sink and a mirrored bulkhead with plenty of storage under the sink. Behind the ladder going into the cockpit is a queen sized, super comfortable bed which is also located right below the cockpit. This boat has a POP-UP roof over the galley area that rotates up and out of the way while boat is at anchor / berth which gives unlimited head room in the cabin. This vessel includes all tools and supplies needed for maintenance and use like a nice Windex for mast top mounting. a manual bilge pump, an anchor with rode, a new gallon of bottom paint, a new fuel tank with hose, a remote controlled stereo, cockpit cushions, a wind scoop etc. I am the third owner of this nice Mac and all paperwork including the Wisconsin Title and the original purchase contract when new are included as well as a IL trailer title from the previous owner. (Note, a few pictures are from the previous owner in IL and we do not have trailer titles in WI.) It is located in Door County, WI in the city of Egg Harbor, WI north of Green Bay at my summer cottage while I live in Milwaukee, WI. If you have any questions please do ask as all inquiries will be responded to. Thanks for your interest. Hull Type: Centerboard (Trunk) Rig Type: Fractional Sloop LOA: 25.82' / 7.87m LWL: 23.50' / 7.16m Beam: 7.82' / 2.38m Listed SA: 235 ft2 / 21.83 m2 Draft (max.) 6.33' / 1.93m Draft (min.) 1.25' / 0.38m Disp. 2850 lbs./ 1293 kgs. Ballast: 1200 lbs. / 544 kgs. SA/Disp.: 18.75 Bal./Disp.: 42.07% Disp./Len.: 98.04 Designer: Roger Macgregor Builder: Macgregor Yacht Corp. (USA) Construct.: FG Bal. type: Water First Built: 1990 Last Built: 1995 # Built: RIG DIMENSIONS KEY I: 22.00' / 6.71m J: 9.67' / 2.95m P: 25.17' / 7.67m E: 10.25' / 3.12m PY: EY: SPL: ISP: SA(Fore.): 106.37 ft2 / 9.88 m2 SA(Main): 129.00 ft2 / 11.98 m2 Total(calc.)SA: 235.37 ft2 / 21.87 m2 DL ratio: 98.04 SA/Disp: 18.78 Est. Forestay Len.: 24.03' / 7.32m Mast Height from DWL: 32.25' / 9.83m BUILDERS (past & present) More about & boats built by: Macgregor Yacht Corp DESIGNER More about & boats designed by: Roger MacGregor NOTES Dry boat weight: 1650 lbs. Centerboard weight: 50 lbs. An earlier model, called the MACGREGOR 26 D was similar but with a (vertically) lifting keel. (also with water ballast = reduced weight for trailering. Not to be adjusted while sailing). Spinnaker area: 360 sq. ft. Click Here for the Owner's Manual Click Here for Information on a Modified Macgregor 26S Click Here for More Pictures of this Vessel Happy Owner's Review: My Experience with the MacGregor 26S ("Classic") "Having owned and sailed extensively a 26S for three years, I can report that indeed it does actually sail fairly well and lives up to its reputation of being a roomy and easily trailered pocket cruiser. At the time it was the only sailboat that met my budgetary needs, had room enough for my family of three to cruise for up to a week at a time, and trailered well to let us explore waters from Maine to Key West. Yes, it's a light boat, but I had a lot of sailing experience and was cautious and never had trouble in winds to 30 knots - and I didn't try anything foolish like taking it offshore. Yes, the fiberglass was thin, but I avoided running into rocks. I took my 3-year-old out on solo daysails and have no regrets. I sold it to a family of four, their first boat, and heard from them a few years later that they'd thoroughly enjoyed tons of sailing. Thousands of other MacGregor owners have had similar experiences."

1971 Catalina 27' Sailboat - Mercury Outboard - Solar Panels - Ready to Sail

1971 Catalina 27' Sailboat - Mercury Outboard - Solar Panels - Ready to Sail

$4,700

Portland, Oregon

Year -

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Model -

Category -

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Posted Over 1 Month

1971 Catalina 27' Sailboat for sale. Fantastic boat with no leaks and a lot of fun to sail. Can sleep 6 when table lowers to create berth. Main sail and jib in good condition 1996 Mercury 15 HP motor (complete bottom reconditioned July 2014) - starts easy and runs great (2) Danforth anchors (1) anchor mount on bow (1) anchor roller on stern (1) New marine grade battery (1) Battery Charger (1) solar panel - installed 2013 (2) New Solar fans (1) Port a potty (4) Life vests (1) CB Radio Several ropes of various lengths mainsail cover tiller cover NEW Uniden QT206-HP 200-Ft. Digital Depth Finder in Aug 2014 New Blue 3-Bow Frame BIMINI in Aug 2014 New custom galley counter with stainless sink - installed in 2014 Required safety gear included: flares, 2 fire extinguishers, and throwable PFD Now the only real drawback on this boat, although it's never affected us because we don't anchor out or sail at night - there is currently no running lights. This Catalina 27 offers standing headroom, shallow draft, ease of sailing, and makes a great low maintenance coastal cruiser. She is currently in a slip on Columbia Way West Marina (Portland, Oregon). Hull Type: Fin w/spade rudder Rig Type: Masthead Sloop LOA: 26.83' / 8.18m LWL: 21.75' / 6.63m Beam: 8.83' / 2.69m Draft (max.) 4.00' / 1.22m Construct.: Fiber Glass Selling for $4700 OBO - Possible trades Everything to Sail is Aboard and Will Go With the Boat...

2010 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 33i

2010 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 33i

$49,915

Mentese, Mugla

Year 2010

Make Jeanneau

Model Sun Odyssey 33i

Category Sailboats

Length 33'

Posted Over 1 Month

2010 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 33i Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 33i; LOA 9.96m; beam 3.34m; draft 1.90m; fin keel with bulb; single helm position; 2 cabin layout; 6 berth; 1 head with holding tank; 140 litre fuel capacity; 160 litre fresh water capacity; 21hp Yanmar 3YM20 3 cylinder diesel engine; classic slab reefing mainsail; roller furling genoa; 12v fridge; 2 burner cooker with oven and grill; depth sounder; VHF radio; autopilot; chart plotter; wind instruments; electric anchor windlass; life raft and safety equipment.BUILDER'S REMARKS: What is most impressive about the Sun Odyssey 33i is her exceptinoal liveability and her performance at sea.Serene, you will sit comfortably in the spacious cockpit and enjoy her intuitive handling, her light, reactive wheel steering, and having all sail handling functions within easy reach. Aboard this beautiful sailboat, you will rediscover the pleasure of sailing.Escape the routine and savour the finest moments of cruising. Below, the inviting interior features quality trimmings.You will love her open, practical galley, a true chart table with full functionality, her comfortable and spacious saloon, and a fully equipped shower and head compartment. Each comfortable cabin features large hanging lockers and numerous portholes for a sea view.BROKER'S REMARKS: 'Swing & Sway' will operate in the Sunsail charter fleet based in Gocek Marinturk Marina this summer. The boat will be available for sale in November 2015 and can be reserved at any time with a 10% deposit. Viewings can be arranged during the season between charters by prior appointment only. Please contact us to arrange a viewing or to learn more about the purchase procedure. Please quote the name SWING & SWAY when contacting us about this advert

Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619

Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619

$1

El Cajon, California

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Posted Over 1 Month

We buy, sell, trade, tune-up, and repair all brands, years, sizes and lengths of outboard motors including: Johnson, Evinrude, Mercury, Sears, Wards, Mariner, British Seagull, SeaKing, Clinton, Elgin, Eska, Aero Marine, Gamefisher, Cruise'n Carry, Force, Ted Williams, and numerous others in addition to: Honda, Nissan, Suzuki, Tanaka, Tohatsu, Yamaha, etc. We also carry used propellers for most of the above brands (it is best to bring your old propeller or outboard with you for a perfect fit). We have some lower units, power tilt and trim units, various used electric starters and small electric trolling motors for sale (great for kids on a small boat on a lake). Turn-around time, for carry-in repairs is about 5 business days or less.(depending on parts availability). A larger motor attached to your boat usually takes 1 to 2 days. We also rebuild electric and pull-starters for all motors and we have a huge selection of used outboard motors for sale ranging from 1hp to 250hp. All our motors have been serviced and ready to go. We do remove and install large outboard motors of all sizes. Call Marty at 619 - 972 - 9998 to discuss your motor. If no answer, please leave a message and I will get back to you as soon as possible. Please repeat your phone number twice because sometimes it is not clear. Often we can help you fix your problem on the phone at no cost. (Please no E-mails or texts). When you bring it in, we will give your outboard motor a compression and spark test, diagnose your engine, and tell you what it needs in repairs to get it back in good running condition. We will repair your motor at your request, answer your questions and make suggestions. Most of our business is by recommendation of satisfied customers. We will do everything possible to make you one. If we do not have the size or brand of outboard that you are looking for, ask us to put your name on our list and we will call you if and when such an outboard arrives. ------------------------------------- USEFUL TIPS & INFORMATION: ------------------------------ (1) All 2 stroke outboard engines made after 1963 require a 50:1 mixture (3 ounces of 2 stroke outboard motor oil per gallon of gas). The actual amount is 2.6 ounces per gallon (a little extra won't hurt, but less can cause severe damage to your engine). NOTE: NEVER use 100:1 as recommended by some manufacturers. It will cause your engine to lose compression and die prematurely. The only lubrication that your engine gets is from the oil that is mixed with the gas, therefore use 50:1 to be safe. (2) Older outboards (pre 1963) require double the amount of oil 25:1 mixture (6 ounces per gallon), some require a 16:1 mixture (8 ounces per gallon), and BRITISH SEAGULL engines require a 10:1 mixture (13 ounces per gallon). (3) 4 stroke outboards do not need oil mixed with the gas. Make sure the crankcase is full of oil (check the dipstick). If by mistake you ran your 4 stroke with oil mixed with gas do not be concerned. It's OK. (4) Always carry a minimum amount of tools like screwdrivers (blade and Phillips head), socket set including a spark plug socket, combination wrenches, vice grips, pliers, fire extinguisher, drift or punch to drive out a broken shear pin, a can of WD - 40, and a spray can of carburetor cleaner for starting emergencies, and a few extra new spark plugs (pre-gapped) in case yours become fouled, a new gas filter if your gas line has one, a tire pressure gauge, a long magnet and (extra-long) forceps (in case you drop a nut or a bolt), and a small flashlight. AVOID USING STARTER FLUID because it contains ether (bad for outboards). Also carry a pair of extra shear pins and cotter pins (for most outboards less than 35hp). And also a few small hose clamps to tighten a loose or leaking fuel line (see tip #53 below). (5) For small outboards under 40hp, keep the clamp handle screws greased so they will not freeze up from oxidation or salt. (6) For all outboards that have remote steering, grease the steering cable often if you go out in salt water to prevent the cable from "seizing up" and causing a costly repair. (7) For all outboards, starting it several times a year keeps everything "limber". (8) For all outboards, flushing your outboard in fresh water for 5 minutes after each saltwater use will prevent costly cooling system repairs. NOTE: Do not flush your motor in saltwater. Use a barrel, or a garden hose hooked up to outboard "earmuffs" or any other device made for your motor. (9) If you carry your small outboard motor in the bed of a pick-up truck, always tie it down securely or it might break the tiller or shift handle by rolling. (10) For all outboards, check your propeller for broken blades or chunks missing from any blade. Operating any outboard with uneven prop blades will cause vibration and damage to seals and other internal parts of the lower unit. Also it is best to carry a spare prop. (Approx. cost $50 for a used one) . (11) Spray a thin coat of WD 40 all around the powerhead of your outboard. It will not make your engine run better, but it will protect it from rust and salt deposits. (12) For pull start outboards, check the entire pull cord for signs of wear. You wouldn't want to break a pull cord when you are out fishing. (13) For electric start outboards, always carry 2 fully charged batteries in case one battery loses its charge. (14) For small (tiller steering) outboards up to 35hp, attach a short chain, cable or heavy rope (one end attached to your outboard's clamp section, and the other end attached to the transom of your boat) as a safety to prevent your motor from falling overboard. (15) For all outboards, in the event that you remove the top cowling to check your engine, put the cowling down away from the edge of the boat since any wave might send the cowling to the bottom of the ocean or lake. It will be difficult to locate a replacement. (16) For all outboards, most engine failure is a result of overheating. Always check the temp. gauge (if you have one) or by watching the "pisser". If you see steam coming out, shut the engine to avoid costly damage. Check the bottom of the lower unit to see if you picked up some vegetation, or a plastic bag which may be blocking your water intake. If you do not find anything, you may have a bad impeller or a bad water-pump housing. The best thing to do is, try (if possible) to get towed back by any good natured person in the area, or call "VESSEL ASSIST". If you do not have "Vessel Assist Insurance", it will be quite costly. To avoid all of the above, it is best to change your impeller every 2 years or sooner. Whether you use your outboard frequently, occasionally, or just once in 2 years, it is time more than wear that ruins the impeller. (17) If you own a boat (any kind), always remember to replace the drain plug in the stern (rear) before you go out, or the boat will slowly fill with water. This event happens to everyone at some time. It is best to make a check list and review it before you launch. (Also keep a spare drain plug near the drain-hole in your boat in case the original one gets "lost"). (18) For portable outboards, it is best (if possible) to mount the motor on land before you launch in the ocean, because any wave can cause you to drop your motor while you are mounting it. (19) For outboards with an integral gas tank (one that is built-in to your engine), always carry extra fuel and a FUNNEL, or much of the extra gas will be lost when pouring to re-fill your integral tank. (20) For pull-start outboards and some bigger electric starting engines, you should have a separate emergency starter rope with a handle in case your starter spring fails, or the rope tears, or the electric starter or battery fails. (21) For all outboards, it is wise to remove the propeller after several times of use, in order to remove the fishing line that sometimes collects there. This fishing line can cut through the prop seal and cause the lower unit to leak oil and take in water. (a costly repair). (22) Gasoline should be fresh (not more than 6 months old). If you choose to keep it longer, add the correct amount of STABIL. (23) For all trailered boats, (large and small) you should check the transom of your boat for stress cracks (caused by the motor bouncing because of bumps in the road). To prevent such cracks you should get a TRANSOM SAVER which takes the weight off your boat's transom and transfers it to the trailer. (It costs about $75, and can save you thousands). (24) For all outboards, check the lower unit gear oil. It should be dark brown or black in color. Water or coffee-n-cream color in the oil indicates a lower unit seal problem. Smelly/stinky oil is usually OK as long as the color is good. The gear oil should be changed annually. (25) For outboards up to 35hp, if you cannot get the boat to plane, try adjusting the tilt pin. If the boat still rides with its "nose" high in the air, it is probably because you have too much weight in the rear or (you may possibly have the wrong length lower unit). One remedy is to install a "WHALE TAIL" on the cavitation plate of your outboard to cause a greater lift in the rear. (It costs about $50). (26) For all boat trailers, you should get a BEARING BUDDY for each wheel. Its purpose is to keep the whole hub and wheel bearings greased and to prevent any water from entering the bearing zone when you back into the water. Keep it full of grease (with a grease gun). Without BEARING BUDDYS you can expect the bearings to seize-up sometime when you are trailering. You might snap an axle, lose control of your trailer, drop your boat off the trailer onto the road, or worse. BEARING BUDDYS are inexpensive and easy to put on. They can be found at any boat shop or automotive parts place. (27) For outboard engines that are partially submerged in saltwater for 3 months or longer, you can expect the lower unit's aluminum housing to begin disintegrating (dissolving). If you cannot keep the lower unit out of the saltwater, you should attach some zinc anodes to the cavitation plate. They will help save your lower unit. Cost of anodes $5 - $55 at any boat shop. (28) For all do-it-yourselfers, it is best to put grease or NEVER SEIZE on all the bolts that you remove and replace, to prevent rust and salt build-up on those bolts. (29) For all outboards, service your engine regularly. To do so not only prevents problems, but allows you or your mechanic to grease all the bolts that are removed and replaced so that those bolts will come out easily "without breaking" in the future. (30) For electric start outboards, at the first sign of starter trouble, get the starter serviced before you take the boat out fishing. Be happy that it gave you a warning. (31) It would be wise to carry an extra fuel tank "quick connector" fitting that "snaps" into your engine fuel fitting. The "O" ring that they all have sometimes goes bad causing the engine to suck too much air instead of fuel. The engine will then stall or run poorly. Cost about $7 - $20. (32) We sell many large 2 stroke outboards to unfortunate people who relied on their automatic oil feeders known as "VRO". We suggest that you disconnect your VRO and add oil to your gas the old fashioned way. Your engine can become totally ruined within seconds when your VRO fails. Don't take our word for this suggestion. Ask other outboard mechanics for their opinions. . (33) It is suggested that you do not go full throttle on any outboard, because it over-stresses your motor. You should use about 95% of your maximum power. This can be accomplished by putting in a "stop" near the end of your throttle or just remembering to back off a little. This should save gas, wear and tear to your engine, thus making it last longer. (It is similar to driving your car with the gas pedal to the floor) (34) For outboards that use portable gasoline tanks (2-12 gallons), it is wise to use a good plastic or aluminum gas tank. (An aluminum tank is hard to find). The reason for using aluminum or plastic is because they will never rust. A rusty tank will probably clog your gas filter or carburetor when the rust-dust gets there. You should keep the plastic tank away from the direct rays of the sun which will cause it to become brittle and crack. You should replace your plastic gas tank after a few years as needed. (35) For all outboards, never store your outboard motor upside down or it may seize from the water residue that will drain into the powerhead causing the internal parts to rust. It is best to store it vertically. (36) For small outboards (carrying type), it is wise to run your motor out of fuel before you take it off your boat. The reason is to prevent the gas that remains in the carburetor from spilling onto the carpet in your car or trunk when you lie the motor down. (37) For outboards that are bolted to the transom of a fiberglass boat, make sure that MARINE silicone is used to coat the mounting bolts and to fill the mounting bolt holes. Apply the silicone liberally. This will prevent water from getting into the bolt holes and save your transom from rotting. Behind the fiberglass is wood. The wood will rot over time if water gets to it. (38) For all outboards, never run your engine "dry" (without water) or it will seriously damage your impeller within 1 minute. You might not realize this, and the next time you go out boating or fishing your engine may overheat. (39) For all trailerable boats, it is wise to attach a safety chain from the "pulling-eye" at the front of your boat to the area near the winch. If your pulling strap suddenly breaks, the safety chain will stop your boat from coming off the trailer in transit. (40) For all outboards, when you change the gear oil, be certain that when you replace the oil screws, that each of the 2 screws has a plastic (or composition) flat washer to prevent oil from leaking out and water from leaking in. Sometimes the washers get stuck in the "screw well". That is OK. Replace the screws and tighten securely. NOTE: If the flat washer is missing, DO NOT replace with an "O" ring. It will surely fail. (41) For all outboards, it is wise to replace the lower oil drain screw with a magnetic elongated drain screw. It will catch any small loose steel particles that break off within the gearcase, warning you that a problem may be developing there. Approx. cost for a magnetic oil screw $8.00 at any boat shop. (42) For all outboards, when changing gears from NEUTRAL to FORWARD, or from NEUTRAL to REVERSE, first lower your speed to minimum. Do not "ease" the shifter into place. Be decisive! Slowly shifting into forward or reverse will cause the gears to grind and lead to costly repairs. (43) For all sailboats with outboard motors, be certain that your outboard motor does not pick-up out of the water when the sailboat rocks. One remedy is to lower the engine mount (if possible), or get an outboard motor with a longer shaft, or else the impeller may become damaged and fail, causing your outboard to overheat. (44) For 2 stroke outboards, it is wise to add outboard motor oil at the same time that you purchase gas. Waiting until you get home increases the chance that you will forget to add oil. Running your outboard without oil can destroy your engine within 15 seconds (a very costly error). (45) For small 4 stroke engines, when transporting your outboard off the boat or when storing it, it is best to keep it in a vertical position. If you must lie it down, make sure that it lies according to the manufacturer's instructions. Lying it down on the wrong side will cause the engine oil to seep out. Always check the oil level with the dipstick before you start any 4 stroke outboard. If your engine oil level is low, you can add any standard automotive oil. (46) To tell if a boat leaks without taking it to a lake or ocean, use a garden hose to fill the bottom of the boat with water. If the water leaks out of the bottom, the boat surely has a leak and it may show you exactly where to repair it. (47) Be smart: DO NOT LEND YOUR OUTBOARD MOTOR OR MOTORBOAT TO ANYONE. If you do, don't be surprised by the motor problems you will have have when it is returned. (48) For uncovered boats left outside between usages, remove the drain plug so your boat will not fill up with rainwater. Check the drain hole periodically to remove leaves, dirt, etc. Be sure to replace the drain plug before you go boating. (49) For all boats that are trailered, it is unwise to tow even a short distance without one or 2 spare tires. If you get a flat tire and have no spare, you can expect a mostly ruined fishing or boating day. I recommend 2 spare tires because in the event that you use your spare because of a flat tire, you no longer have a spare. NOTE: Many people prevent weathering of their spares by carrying them in their trunk. (50) For all trailer users, it is wise to have a 12 volt tire inflator that plugs into your cigarette lighter or attaches to your car battery. If your trailer tires are low they could possibly blow-out or become flat. A 12 volt tire inflator will take a few minutes to restore the required air pressure etched on the tire by the manufacturer. Cost: $15-$40. (51) It is wise to make a check- list of all the things you will need when you go boating or fishing so you will not forget anything. Write it on thick stiff paper so it will not crumble and can be used repeatedly, and you can add to the list as needed. (52) For all outboards, if your motor runs in neutral but it will not move in forward or reverse, it might have broken shear pin, or a faulty propeller, or a loose shift rod. Do not assume that the gears are bad until you eliminate those 3 items. (53) For all outboards, check all gasoline hoses. Today's gasoline contains alcohol which hardens and /or deteriorates most old hoses. They rot from the inside and cause problems with your carburetor and /or sometimes cause a dangerous gas leak and loss of power. It would be wise to change the hoses annually to prevent problems. The cost of hoses is approx. $2-$10 at any automotive shop. Bring a sample with you. Make sure that the new hoses are alcohol resistant. (54) For all sailboats that are in slips and use outboard motors mounted onto an outside kicker bracket. When mounting or removing your outboard it is wise to maneuver your boat so that the outboard motor is over the floating dock. This can be accomplished by backing up your sailboat so that the motor is not directly above water, but above the walkway. The purpose is to prevent the outboard from falling out of your hands when mounting or dismounting it. Many people have dropped their outboards into the water by trying to mount them while leaning over the stern. (55) For all trailers, make sure that the ball is securely fastened to the coupler before pulling the trailer. Sometimes the coupler "looks" as though it is fastened, but it is not. The trailer may become undone and cause havoc on the road. It only takes a few seconds to carefully check it before you tow. COST: zero, SAVINGS: perhaps a life. (56) For all trailerable boats, always check your trailer lights. The cops are out there with spare tickets anxiously waiting to give them out. It is also safer if all your lights are working. Backing your trailer into a lake or saltwater will often ruin your trailer lights. The cost of repairing the lights is considerably less than the cost of a ticket and a loss of time at the courthouse. P.S. You can also get a ticket if your safety chain is not properly attached. (57) For all outboards it is wise to buy or make any device that will stop or slow down a thief who would like to steal your engine. If it takes a thief more than I minute to remove your engine, he will probably go elsewhere. It is best if everyone made their own device so that the thief will not be able to figure out a system for fast removal. (58) For all outboards, always carry a metal scraper, or stainless steel wool, or at least some emery cloth, or sandpaper. Sometimes your motor will not start because the battery cable terminals are dirty or corroded, or other wire terminals or ground connections may be corroded. The emery cloth or sandpaper may restore a clean connection to wherever it is needed. (59) For all outboards sitting idle for long periods of time, check the wires (not the spark plug wires) by shaking them with your fingers. If the insulation is brittle and crumbles you must replace the wires before starting your engine because they might short-out and cause costly damage to your electrical components. They can also cause a fire under the hood. This happens mostly to old Mercury outboards, but it can happen to any brand. (60) If you made a checklist, add this to it: Swing or crank the trailer jack wheel up and out of the way after attaching your hitch, or it might get damaged or break off when pulling the boat for as little as a few inches. (61) For small outboards (up to 25hp), if you notice that your outboard is not "pissing" water, don't panic. It might be a clogged "pee" hole or a clogged intake. Check if the engine is HOT. If it IS HOT shut it down immediately. If it is NOT HOT, push a wire (the thickness of a paper clip) into the "pee" hole. This might open the clogged passage. Also check the intake screen (at the bottom of the engine near the propeller) for debris. (62) For all outboards, if you remove your propeller (for any reason), before you put it back on, it is wise to grease the propeller shaft to prevent the propeller from "freezing" to the propeller shaft (because of salt and/or rust). If the propeller is already " frozen" and it will not come off (after you tried tapping it with a hammer and cussing), you may have to cut it off with an electric hand grinder or something similar. Sometimes a propane torch will burn out the rubber insert that holds the propeller together. Neither method is pleasant. A little grease now can save you a lot of time and money in the future. NOTE: Do not hit the propeller hard with a hammer or you might bend the propeller shaft which will cause costly internal lower unit damage when you go boating. (63) For all boat owners, it is advisable to purchase liability insurance for your vessel because you are responsible for any damage or injury that is caused by your boat or its wake. (64) For most gas tanks (metal and plastic), do not fill to the top with gas. Give the gasoline room to expand during hot weather, or the pressure inside the tank may cause the gas to overflow, the tank to rupture, distort, or generate small cracks at its top etc. Sometimes the cracks may not be visible, but during the rainy season (unknown to you) water may seep into the tank through those cracks. You will not be able to start your engine if there is water in the gas. (65) For all saltwater fishermen, it is wise to carry a thermos of HOT water or coffee in case you catch a sculpin and get stuck by its poisonous fins. Pouring HOT water on the injury will immediately neutralize the poison. Using cold water to stop the pain will make it worse. Ask your medical doctor. (66) For all outboard motors, if your motor runs great with the hood off, but runs terrible with the hood on, you may have an exhaust leak that is fouling your carburetor. Consult your mechanic for a remedy. (67) For all outboards, if you hear electrical arcing, pulsating or buzzing noises when it is running, you may have an electrical problem. A good way to investigate the problem is to run the outboard at night where it is dark and look below the hood. If you see sparks, clean and tighten the connections or change the part that is sparking as soon as possible because the sparks can start a fire. (68) For all boat trailers, if you notice that your boat is sagging to one side, the trailer may have a broken leaf in its set of springs. If so, get it fixed promptly before another leaf breaks because of the added stress. (69) For all outboards, check the water intake near the bottom of your motor for a broken or "plugged-up" screen. Clean or replace if broken. (70) For all boat, car, and truck owners, if you have a build-up of acid corrosion on your battery post, pour very hot water onto it. The corrosion will immediately vanish. (71) For outboards over 10 years old that have foam-rubber glued to the inside of the hood by the manufacturer, be sure to REMOVE ALL OF IT by any means because the foam will flake-off and plug up your carburetor. DO IT NOW!!! Also remove any dust, or leaves because your carburetor will suck any loose material into it like a vacuum cleaner. (72) For all outboards, it is wise to start and run your outboard at home for 10 minutes before you go out boating or fishing. Sometimes your motor will not start. You do not want to have trouble starting at the lake or ocean. It is best to deal with the problem on land. Be sure not to start it without water. (73) For all boat trailers, you will need a jack and a lug-wrench that fits your trailer's lug nuts. If they are rusty you may need a length of steel pipe to give you more leverage with the lug wrench. (It also helps to spray W-40 on everything during removal). (74) It is wise to often check the tire pressure in your spare tire because it may be very low. It can lose air, by just "sitting". (75) To determine if your (questionable) boat battery is good, it will need a "load test". For an accurate reading, you should charge-up your battery for about 2-3 hrs. A load test takes about 10 seconds. Most auto parts shops will load test your battery for free. (76) For all outboards, many of them take about 1-2 minutes to warm up. In that time your motor may stall, misfire, run-rough, etc. It may need more choke or less choke depending on how much gas is in the carburetor or carburetors (if you have more than one). Be sure that the "pump-up ball" is hard and the carburetor(s) is full of gas. (77) For all boaters, you can expect that at some time in the future your outboard motor will not start or re-start while you are out fishing. If you can afford it, it is wise to carry an auxiliary motor, or mount one on the stern. It should be between 4 hp and 25 hp depending on the size of your boat. It can also be used to save gas when you are slow-trolling for fish. (78) For all 2 stroke outboards, if you notice oil "leaking" near the foot of the motor, it is NORMAL because all the oil in the gas that went into the engine for lubrication must either "burn" or drip-out after the motor is shut down. It is wise to use an oil drip pan under the lower unit to prevent a stain on your driveway or elsewhere. (79) For users of small boats that use outboards, to avoid painful blisters bring along a pair of leather gloves along with oars in case your motor won't start and you have to row. NOTE: Most boaters are aware of the above suggestions, but not everyone. I hope that I may have saved someone the inconvenience of having a bad day on the water. If I think of any more tips, I will add them to the list. Perhaps you should make a copy of the tips as a reminder.