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COMPLETELY RE-DONE / RE-FIT ULTIMATE SPORT FISH ING MACHINE - WITH TOWER
$25,000
Blue Point, New York
PLEASE NOTE - THE BOAT WAS HAULED OUT A FEW DAYS PRIOR TO HURRICANE SANDY AND SUSTAINED NO DAMAGE. INCLUDED IN THE AUCTION PRICE IS STORAGE THROUGH THE 10/31/14 IF YOU CHOOSE TO KEEP THE BOAT AT THE MARINA. (Storage thereafter is $200 month) I WILL DELIVER THE BOAT BY WATER PERSONALLY TO THE NEWARK NEW JERSEY PORT FOR THE PRICE OF FUEL FOR INTERNATIONL BUYERS. The boat is for sale locally as well and I reserve the right to end the listing at any time. Up for Auction is a very rare find no less in this kind of condition. The Bertram 38 is one of the best sport fish hull designs ever made. The Cadillac of fishing machines. This boat has been cared for its entire life and it shows. It has been re-fit and updated in almost every possible way over the last 10 years. From engines to exhaust tips, wiring, lighting, outlets, gauges, paint, cabinetry, ceilings, carpet, bedding, The Tower, the list could go on and on and on. A small fortune and many many hours have been spent upgrading this boat in almost every possible way. Pretty much the only thing left from 1965 is a bullet proof hull with the structural integrity of a Sherman tank that rides like a Cadillac in almost any sea condition. Structural integrity –The structural integrity of this boat is beyond comprehension and description in words. The one piece hull is made up of layer upon layer of hand laid heavy thick fiberglass and resin and is probably 3 times stronger than anything you can find today and twice as thick as any hull that has been made in the last 30 years. Looking inside the hull you see results of and the definition of true craftsmanship and the pride that went into building this boat. Something you could never find today at any price. The strength of this hull provides a serious extra measure of safetyin the event you encounter any floating debris like a telephone pole or tree. The keel of this boat could probably withstand a major impact that would crack the hull and sink most other boats. If you properly installed a sharp angled piece of heavy steel on the forward entry point where the hull first hits the water….. you most probably could get the ABS (Amercian Bureau of Shipping) approval to change the boats rating to “ICE BREAKER” class-LOL. PLEASE SEE 3 LINKS TO 188 ADDITIONAL PICTURES OF THE BOAT AT THE BOTTOM OF THE EBAY ADVERTISEMENT Engines: Powered by economical Twin Detroit Diesel 6v53 naturals with less than 350hrs since being completely rebuilt. They start right up, run great and smoke free. If maintained properly these naturally aspirated engines can last a lifetime. Unlike their turbo counterparts they are not pushed to their limits and beat on to drain every ounce of horsepower at the expense of reliability. The tranny’s shift properly and all controls operate as they should. The running gear is corrosion free. The bronze props, stainless shafts and struts are in excellent shape and vibration free. With 420hp and 880 ft. / lbs. of torque the boat will cruise at 15-16 knots though almost any condition and max out at around 20kts. Wiring: The boat has been completely rewired to perfection using the highest grade marine wiring though out. On the 110 side from the 2 - 30 amp shore power receptacles to the 110 volt breakers, switches, outlets, lights and 30 amp battery charger and everything in between. On the 12 volt side from the battery cables to the 12 volt breaker panel, switches, gauges, pumps and everything in between was all re-done to perfection. The Tower: Constructed by a true old school craftsman and custom made for this boat, it is a work of art. Installed about 5 years ago it is in near immaculate condition. The towers design, structural integrity and how it is perfectly mounted on the boat is mind boggling. You could probably lift the boat with a helicopter with the proper lines and rigging tied to the tower-LOL. It must be seen in person to truly be appreciated. It is only rivaled by structural integrity of the boat. If you called Atlantic Towers to replicate this tower there is no doubt in my mind it would be atleast 25k-30k installed.Here is a link to a used tinker toy tower compared to this one that the are asking almost 11,500 for and if you look in the link at the spec of the pictures in the tower ad it was over a 40k factory add on when new http://www.ebay.com/itm/HATTERAS-YACHTS-53-CONVERTIBLE-12-1-2-FOOT-ALUMINUM-MARLIN-BOAT-TOWER/141131261043?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D23423%26meid%3D7714795562983720754%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D10050%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D200819663329 The Hull: From the bottom paint to from the rub rail the original gel coat is in excellent condition with barely a nick or ding anywhere and has a beautiful glossy finish. The bottom is in amazing shape. It only has a few coats of bottom paint since all the old paint was removed. Topside was recently painted, shines away and is in very nice condition. Thru- hulls: All thru-hulls have been changed and updated about 10 years ago. They are in great shape / open and close freely and are leak free. The Interior: The interior is in amazing shape. Some of the side walls and ceilings of the interior is actually original Bertram gel coat and have a glossy shine like new. The ceilings in each and every room where they are not the original gel coat were redone few years ago using high end marine fabric and trimmed with teak, they are in mint near flawless condition throughout. This year brand new heavyweight Berber carpet was installed throughout the entire boat. The V-Berth bed and 2 twin bed mattresses were also replaced this year with high end custom fit dense temper pedic type foam beds. They are so comfortable you don’t want to get out of bed in the morning. All new bedding this year and curtains were replaced as well. A few years ago brand new custom made teak cabinets were installed in the salon that hold the built in fridge, kitchen sink, microwave, 2 burner electric stove, stainless toaster oven and has plenty of additional storage as well. In the salon running the entire starboard side all new matching teak panels were also installed. Fuel System / Range: The boat is currently rigged with a 350 gallon fiberglass fuel tank that is in nice shape and leak and issue free. When the engines were rebuilt all new fuel lines were installed throughout. At a mellow cruise of about 14-15 knots your burning around 6-7 gph a side giving you a range of about 300 miles, coming home with about 20% of fuel. There is room to add up to more 3 tanks if you want to extend the range. The forward cockpit hatch which had the old antiquated generator could easily fit a 175-200 gallon tank or if you wanted to save that spot to re-install a generator you could add Saddle tanks on the outside of each engine gaining about 100-125 gal each, depending on your preference. Comforts: There is a built in 12,000 Btu A/C in the salon that cools the whole boat very nicely and also a 5000btu thru hatch portable unit for the forward cabin if you want A/C with the cabin door closed for privacy. There is a brand new hot water heater and its also equipped with a 100 gallon water tank so you have hot and cold water in the shower, bathroom and kitchen sinks. The head, holding tank and all plumbing lines and pumps in between are only a few years old and function as they should. Storage: Throughout the boat is plenty of storage. You can store 6 rods in ceiling of salon and 6 in forward cabin. The Forward cabin has 2 huge carpeted lockers, 2 dry storage areas under the V berth itself at the foot of the bed and under the bed itself. There is also an additional closet in the hall. The second cabin which contains 2 beds has a closet, a huge built in shelved storage area by the lower bunk and a built in night table with plenty of draw space as well. The bathroom has a very large 2 shelved storage area above the sink and plenty of storage below the built in sink set up as well. Lighting: Throughout the boat there is a mix of 12 volt and 110 lighting in each cabin area. All running, cabin and spreader lights operate as they should. Link to 72 Additional Exterior Picture Slideshowhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/13668080@N04/sets/72157630962680462/show/ Link to 75 Additional Interior Picture Slideshowhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/13668080@N04/sets/72157630962870792/show/ Link to 41 Additional Mechanical Picture Slideshowhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/13668080@N04/sets/72157630963036100/show/ PERFORMANCE and SAFETY: Manueverability – At low speeds the boat responds instantly. You can spin her on a dime. This is because the chines are above the water where they won’t dig in. In high speed turns, her outside chine rises well clear of the water where it won’t catch and trip, while her longitudinal steps stop side slips. LESS ROLL – In a Beam sea, the boat is very stable because the V sections develop a strong righting action. Longitudinal steps act as bilge keels which dampen roll. The boat also sits proportionally deeper and is less disturbed by surface waves. Steers easy in following Sea –Because the Bertram has neither flat sections aft nor a sharp forefoot she performs very well steering in following seas at high or low speeds or trying to get in the inlet on a bad day. Unlike the flat aft sections of many conventional hulls that will pitch forward, yaw or even broach in bad weather. Softer ride –Due to the hull design not having an aft planning surface to jolt and jar the boat, the boat will ride more easily through rough seas and be able to cruise comfortably at considerable higher speeds than conventional boats of the same size. Drier Ride– The Bertram’s longitudinal steps throw water out low and flat where it won’t blow back aboard. I COULD GO ON AND ON FOR ANOTHER FEW PAGES BUT I WILL STOP MYSELF-LOL TERMS: $500 immediate deposit through PayPal, with the balance due by cash, personal check or wire transfer only within 7 days. Neither title nor possession of the boat will be released until all funds are cleared. Buyer is responsible for all shipping costs. Included in the buy-it-now price is storage on land through 10/31/14. You are welcome to set up an appointment to come and see the boat in person anytime during the auction. If you have any questions please feel free to email them or leave your name and number and best time to call and I will get back to you as soon as possible.I am a man of my word and stand behind my description, if you come see the boat within 7 days of the auction and can find one word in the description that is in accurate I will refund your $500 deposit. In return I expect you to follow through with the purchase of the boat based on the terms as described. If you cannot abide by the terms, please do not bid. Thank You and good luck with the auction. FOR INTERNATIONAL BUYERS ONLY: Included in the auction price is personal delivery by me of the boat by water to the Newark New Jersey Port for the price of fuel cost only.
2014 Inmar JP-290-TS New
$1,095
Port Moody, British Columbia
Robert (604) 936-4602 4-850 Barnet Hwy. Port Moody British Columbia V3H 1V6 ? ? ? ? Inmar JP-290-TS Vehicle Information Year: 2014 Make: Inmar Model: JP-290-TS Condition: New ? ? ? ? 1 of 3 ? View Large Images ? ? Description We now offer a perfect aluminum floor recreational tender. The Tender Series ® offers many of the features found in our Professional Inflatables, but with colors and options better suited for the recreational or yacht boater.We are still producing the standard 1100 Decitex tubes, but have added double hull protection standard. This allows 1.8 mm of lower tube protection compared to most other brands at only 0.9 mm. This second layer is added to the rear of the tube bottoms, protecting from those rocky beaches. All our Tender Series have 3 independent air chambers +1 keal air chamber standard. Safety and keeping you afloat is priority one for Inmar Marine.Our Tender Series ® boats are designed to be functional, durable and versatile. Two people can assemble most of our models and have the craft operational in less than 20 minutes.Specifications:- Length: 9' 6"- Beam: 5' 0"- Weight: 105 lbs. (boat w/ floor installed)- Weight capacity: 4 persons / 1,125 lbs.- Max HP/Weight: 10 HP / 95 lbs. / Short shaft- Tube diameter: 16.5" (Separate air chambers 3 + keel)- Fabric: Decitex, Duratex, 0.9 mm.- Factory Warranty: 3 yearsStandard Features:- Non-skid aluminum floor with anodized aluminum stringers- Bow floorboard, wood- Marine plywood transom- Aluminum engine mounting plate- Reinforcement on tube transom attachments- Standard self bailers with plug- All around rub strake, flat profile- Rubbing strakes for beaching on keel and tubes- Carry handles, molded- Bow handle (Stainless)- Exterior lifelines (peripheral)- Reinforcing seat patches on tubes- Two large tow rings on bow (Stainless steal)- Foot pump with hose- Repair kit- Storage bags, bow bag- Two paddles (Alum. shaft, plastic blade) ?Credit Application ?Directions to Dealer ?Contact Us Options and Standard Features Basic Information Year: 2014 Make: Inmar Model: JP-290-TS Stock Number: JPM2TA35E314 VIN: JPM2TA35E314 Condition: New Use: Not Specified Length / Beam Length (Feet): 0 ? Apply Now Secure Credit Application Applying for a vehicle loan online is one of the quickest and easiest application methods. Our secure application is easy to complete, all you need are a few personal and employment details. Contact Inlet Marine 4-850 Barnet Hwy. Port Moody British Columbia V3H 1V6 View Map Ask for:Robert Contact: ?Contact Us Primary Phone:(604) 936-4602 Hours Mon-Fri:09:00 AM-05:00 PM PST Saturday:09:00 AM-03:00 PM PST Sunday:Closed Terms Placing a Bid: Your bid constitutes a legally binding contract to purchase this vehicle. Please do not bid if you're not seriously interested or financially able to purchase this vehicle. Please read eBay's User AgreementInlet Marine reserves the right to, Obtain and verify the registered information of all users who bid on this auction. Cancel any and all bids at our discretion, or end the auction early if necessary.Bidders Age: You must be 18 years of age or older to Bid. Special eBay Bid Retraction Rules: Please read eBay's "Retracting a Bid" If you place a bid before the last 12-hour period of the auction: You may retract that bid before that last 12-hour period but only for exceptional circumstances. You will not be allowed to retract that bid during the last 12-hour period of the auction. If you place a bid during the last 12-hour period of the auction: You will be allowed to retract the bid for exceptional circumstances but only if you do so within one hour after placing the bid.Funds & Financing: For help in arranging for a Pre-Approved loan or for any questions please e-mail or phone Robert at(604) 936-4602 prior to bidding. Buyers Inspection: Inlet Marine has done our best to disclose all information known about this vehicle for auction. Inlet Marine welcomes a buyers inspection. If you plan to have a buyers inspection, please make sure you inspect the vehicle prior to the auction ending. Inspection fees if any are Buyers responsibility. Representations and Warranties made by seller: This vehicle is being sold "as is". Manufacturer's warranties may still apply. Extended warranty may be available, e-mail or phone Robert at (604) 936-4602 for details. No representations or warranties are made by seller, nor are any representations or warranties relied upon by bidders in making bids. Taxes and Registration fees: Out of state buyers are responsible for all state, county, city taxes and fees, as well as title service fees in the state that the vehicle will be registered. All taxes and fees must be paid in full in order for vehicle to be titled and registered. Title Information: Vehicles titles may be held by banks or lenders as collateral for loans. In many cases there is a delay in receiving the original instruments up to 21 days from the time we pay a vehicle off. While we usually have all titles in our possession at closing, there are occasions where we may be waiting for them to arrive. If payment is made by cashier's or personal checks we will hold all titles for 10 days or until funds have cleared. Shipping & Delivery: All shipping charges are buyer's responsibility. Inlet Marine will help with shipping arrangements but will not be responsible in any way for claims arising from shipping damage!Licensed Carriers are generally insured for $3,000,000.00. We assume no responsibility for damages incurred after the vehicle leaves our showroom. All shipping arrangements are provided by Inlet Marine as a courtesy. We are not affiliated with any carrier. Any claims or other communication regarding shipment of vehicles will be between you and the shipper, not with Inlet Marine. The amount of time it takes for delivery is dependent on the carrier, but is generally 7-14 days from the date the vehicle is picked up from our facility until it is delivered to your destination. Verify with the shipper for an Estimate Time of Arrival to be sure. Finalizing your Purchase: Inlet Marine will contact the successful high bidder by e-mail after the auction closes. Successful high bidder MUST communicate with Robert at Inlet Marine by e-mail or phone(604) 936-4602 within 24 hours of the auction ending to make arrangements to complete their transaction. If we cannot confirm your intention to buy or the sale is not completed within 5 days, we reserve the right to relist this vehicle or sell to any other qualified buyer. In order to secure bid on vehicle, Successful bidder (BUYER) must within 24 hours of bid closing send to Seller a Deposit in the amount of 10% by major credit card, cash in person or bank certified funds. Within 72 hours of bid closing, Buyer must send balance of funds by cash in person or bank certified funds to Seller. At time of sending initial deposit, Buyer MUST fax copy of their State issued valid Driver License. Furthermore, before said vehicle is released for shipment to Buyer, all other Sale related and title related paperwork must be signed and returned complete to Seller. Copyright © 2017 Auction123 - All rights reserved. - Disclaimer +- Auction123 (a service and listing/software company) and the Seller has done his/her best to disclose the equipment/condition of this vehicle/purchase. However, Auction123 disclaims any warranty as to the accuracy or to the working condition of the vehicle/equipment listed. The purchaser or prospective purchaser should verify with the Seller the accuracy of all the information listed within this ad. Selling a Vehicle? Create Professional Listings Fast and Easy. Click Here!
2015 Inmar JP-320-TS New
$1,195
Port Moody, British Columbia
Robert (604) 936-4602 4-850 Barnet Hwy. Port Moody British Columbia V3H 1V6 ? ? ? ? Inmar JP-320-TS Vehicle Information Year: 2015 Make: Inmar Model: JP-320-TS Condition: New ? ? ? ? 1 of 3 ? View Large Images ? ? Description We now offer a perfect aluminum floor recreational tender. The Tender Series ® offers many of the features found in our Professional Inflatables, but with colors and options better suited for the recreational or yacht boater.We are still producing the standard 1100 Decitex tubes, but have added double hull protection standard. This allows 1.8 mm of lower tube protection compared to most other brands at only 0.9 mm. This second layer is added to the rear of the tube bottoms, protecting from those rocky beaches. All our Tender Series have 3 independent air chambers +1 keal air chamber standard. Safety and keeping you afloat is priority one for Inmar Inflatables.Our Tender Series ® boats are designed to be functional, durable and versatile. Two people can assemble most of our models and have the craft operational in less than 20 minutes.Specifications:- Length: 10' 6"- Beam: 5' 0"- Weight: 125 lbs. (boat w/ floor installed)- Weight capacity: 5 persons / 1,280 lbs.- Max HP/Weight: 15 HP / 110 lbs. / Short shaft- Tube diameter: 16.5" (Separate air chambers 3 + keel)- Fabric: Decitex, Duratex, 0.9 mm.- Factory warranty: 3 yearsStandard Features:- Non-skid aluminum floor with anodized aluminum stringers- Bow floorboard, wood- Marine plywood transom- Aluminum engine mounting plate- Reinforcement on tube transom attachments- Standard self bailers with plug- All around rub strake, flat profile- Rubbing strakes for beaching on keel and tubes- Four carry handles, molded- Bow handle (Stainless)- Exterior lifelines (peripheral)- Reinforcing seat patches on tubes- Two large tow rings on bow (Stainless steal)- Foot pump with hose- Repair kit with pressure gauge- Storage bags, bow bag- Two paddles (Alum. shaft, plastic blade) ?Credit Application ?Directions to Dealer ?Contact Us Options and Standard Features Basic Information Year: 2015 Make: Inmar Model: JP-320-TS Stock Number: JPM3TA51E314 VIN: JPM3TA51E314 Condition: New Use: Not Specified Length / Beam Length (Feet): 0 ? Apply Now Secure Credit Application Applying for a vehicle loan online is one of the quickest and easiest application methods. Our secure application is easy to complete, all you need are a few personal and employment details. Contact Inlet Marine 4-850 Barnet Hwy. Port Moody British Columbia V3H 1V6 View Map Ask for:Robert Contact: ?Contact Us Primary Phone:(604) 936-4602 Hours Mon-Fri:09:00 AM-05:00 PM PST Saturday:09:00 AM-03:00 PM PST Sunday:Closed Terms Placing a Bid: Your bid constitutes a legally binding contract to purchase this vehicle. Please do not bid if you're not seriously interested or financially able to purchase this vehicle. Please read eBay's User AgreementInlet Marine reserves the right to, Obtain and verify the registered information of all users who bid on this auction. Cancel any and all bids at our discretion, or end the auction early if necessary.Bidders Age: You must be 18 years of age or older to Bid. Special eBay Bid Retraction Rules: Please read eBay's "Retracting a Bid" If you place a bid before the last 12-hour period of the auction: You may retract that bid before that last 12-hour period but only for exceptional circumstances. You will not be allowed to retract that bid during the last 12-hour period of the auction. If you place a bid during the last 12-hour period of the auction: You will be allowed to retract the bid for exceptional circumstances but only if you do so within one hour after placing the bid.Funds & Financing: For help in arranging for a Pre-Approved loan or for any questions please e-mail or phone Robert at(604) 936-4602 prior to bidding. Buyers Inspection: Inlet Marine has done our best to disclose all information known about this vehicle for auction. Inlet Marine welcomes a buyers inspection. If you plan to have a buyers inspection, please make sure you inspect the vehicle prior to the auction ending. Inspection fees if any are Buyers responsibility. Representations and Warranties made by seller: This vehicle is being sold "as is". Manufacturer's warranties may still apply. Extended warranty may be available, e-mail or phone Robert at (604) 936-4602 for details. No representations or warranties are made by seller, nor are any representations or warranties relied upon by bidders in making bids. Taxes and Registration fees: Out of state buyers are responsible for all state, county, city taxes and fees, as well as title service fees in the state that the vehicle will be registered. All taxes and fees must be paid in full in order for vehicle to be titled and registered. Title Information: Vehicles titles may be held by banks or lenders as collateral for loans. In many cases there is a delay in receiving the original instruments up to 21 days from the time we pay a vehicle off. While we usually have all titles in our possession at closing, there are occasions where we may be waiting for them to arrive. If payment is made by cashier's or personal checks we will hold all titles for 10 days or until funds have cleared. Shipping & Delivery: All shipping charges are buyer's responsibility. Inlet Marine will help with shipping arrangements but will not be responsible in any way for claims arising from shipping damage!Licensed Carriers are generally insured for $3,000,000.00. We assume no responsibility for damages incurred after the vehicle leaves our showroom. All shipping arrangements are provided by Inlet Marine as a courtesy. We are not affiliated with any carrier. Any claims or other communication regarding shipment of vehicles will be between you and the shipper, not with Inlet Marine. The amount of time it takes for delivery is dependent on the carrier, but is generally 7-14 days from the date the vehicle is picked up from our facility until it is delivered to your destination. Verify with the shipper for an Estimate Time of Arrival to be sure. Finalizing your Purchase: Inlet Marine will contact the successful high bidder by e-mail after the auction closes. Successful high bidder MUST communicate with Robert at Inlet Marine by e-mail or phone(604) 936-4602 within 24 hours of the auction ending to make arrangements to complete their transaction. If we cannot confirm your intention to buy or the sale is not completed within 5 days, we reserve the right to relist this vehicle or sell to any other qualified buyer. In order to secure bid on vehicle, Successful bidder (BUYER) must within 24 hours of bid closing send to Seller a Deposit in the amount of 10% by major credit card, cash in person or bank certified funds. Within 72 hours of bid closing, Buyer must send balance of funds by cash in person or bank certified funds to Seller. At time of sending initial deposit, Buyer MUST fax copy of their State issued valid Driver License. Furthermore, before said vehicle is released for shipment to Buyer, all other Sale related and title related paperwork must be signed and returned complete to Seller. Copyright © 2017 Auction123 - All rights reserved. - Disclaimer +- Auction123 (a service and listing/software company) and the Seller has done his/her best to disclose the equipment/condition of this vehicle/purchase. However, Auction123 disclaims any warranty as to the accuracy or to the working condition of the vehicle/equipment listed. The purchaser or prospective purchaser should verify with the Seller the accuracy of all the information listed within this ad. Selling a Vehicle? Create Professional Listings Fast and Easy. Click Here!
1997 Fisher Spectrum Avenger
$3,500
Omaha, Nebraska
Year 1997
Make -
Model -
Category -
Length -
Posted Over 1 Month
1997 Fisher Spectrum Avenger, Gas fuel, 100 miles, Length: 16, Exterior: White, Interior: Teal, Trolling Motor, Original, Fresh Water, Live Well, Trailer Aluminum hull material. flat bottom, foot control pedal. power tilt engine. garaged. Asking $3,500, Located in OMAHA NE 68112, Contact Russel at 402-657-8598 for more information. This For Sale by Owner Listing was provided by BoatSellersUSA, a division of National Marketing Classifieds - NMSell To view the original go to http://www.boatsellersusa.com/view/1237 cartype: Fishing Boats
1982 S2 8.5A 28 foot Sailboat with Inboard Yanmar Diesel - In Racine Wisconsin
$2,750
Racine, Wisconsin
**** PLEASE NOTE: Because of the relatively low BUY IT NOW price, payment will be due within 24 hours via paypal. I will send you a paypal invoice after a successful "BUY IT NOW" or an accepted offer. Please only buy or offer if you have positive feedback. Your buy it now or offer constitutes a binding agreement to purchase so please ask questions BEFORE clicking "BUY IT NOW" or making an offer. After receiving your payment I will overnight you the title or meet you in person depending on timing and my availability.**** Very Nice S2 8.5A (28ft) for sale in Racine Wisconsin. I'm expecting a second child soon and really don't want to sell this excellent great lakes cruiser. Clean and clear Wisconsin title.Tiller steering. (always my preference)Inboard Yanmar diesel is extremely clean and fuel efficient. Recent full Yanmar service checkout since boat was last launched.Furling headsail in good shape. Newer mainsail in excellent shape.New Raymarine autopilot professionally installed. Shore power and long power cable. Halyards in good shape.New marine head and holding tank (never used). Chainplates recently professionally rebedded by boatyard. Interior in excellent shape.Solid fiberglass hull. All tabbed in joinery in excellent shape. Cored deck with NO soft spots. Very large cockpit.Includes steel cradle as well. I looked at everything in this size and price range in the lower half of lake Michigan for two years and this is the nicest boat I could find by leaps and bounds. Solid turnkey value. Launch is all ready paid for with the boat yard. You can be in the water tomorrow. No better deal can be found on solid and ready to sail Great Lakes cruiser with a clean inboard diesel - it is just time for me to move it along. Currently out of the water at Racine Riverside Marina in Racine, WI. Summer storage is paid through the end of this month and a launch is included in the purchase. If you chose not to launch until next season the storage rates at the Marina for winter are extremely reasonable and the pre-paid launch will still be yours come next summer. Here is a Review from "Practical Sailor" S2 8.5 MeterThe 8.5 is good for cruising the coasts in comfort and style--as long as you like the modern look.When Leon Slikkers founded S2 Yachts in 1973, much of the attention to detail that had previously characterized Slickcraft powerboats—Slikkers’ earlier boatbuilding venture— traveled with him to the new boatbuilding company. In the 13 years S2 sailboats were in production (S2 still makes powerboats), the company produced a variety of modern cruising designs from the board of Arthur Edmunds, all characterized by longish fin keels, freestanding spade rudders, straight sheerlines, and a staggering variety of draft options and cockpit locations. In the early ’80s, S2 reached more for the performance market with the Grand Slam series of small boats, and the 10.3 “offshore racer-cruiser.” These higher performance boats were designed by Scott Graham and Eric Schlageter, well known for their MORC and smaller IOR designs.The S2 8.5 is a 28-footer cast in the company’s traditional mold. Her hull dimensions, sail area, displacement, and general design characteristics put her square in the middle of the modern 28-footers such as the Tanzer 8.5, Newport 28, O’Day 28, and the Pearson 28.The boat’s styling is conventionally modern. She has a fairly straight sheer, fairly high freeboard, and low, raked cabin trunk with dark tinted flush ports. Production of the 8.5 ran from 1981 to 1983. The boat was replaced by the similar S2 8.6, which continued until S2 stopped making sailboats in 1986.ConstructionThe hull of the S2 8.5 is a solid hand layup. Glasswork is excellent, and is noted by owners as one of the main considerations in buying the boat. Gelcoat quality is excellent.Slight roving printthrough is evident, but it is not objectionable. Minor hard spots are visible in the topsides, probably caused by the attachment of interior furniture and bulkheads.The deck molding is cored with end grain balsa, giving a solid feel underfoot as well as providing reasonable insulating properties.S2’s hull-to-deck joint is the basic type that we would like to see adopted throughout the industry. The hull molding has an inward-turning flange, onto which the deck molding is dropped. The joint is bedded in flexible sealant, and through bolted on six inch intervals by bolts passing through the full length slotted aluminum toerail. The joint is also through bolted across the stem.All deck hardware is properly through bolted, although pulpits, cleats, and winches merely use nuts and washers on the underside of the deck, rather than the aluminum or stainless steel backing plates we prefer.Another feature of the hull-to-deck joint is a heavy, semi-rigid vinyl rubrail at the sheerline, quite aptly termed a “crash rubrail” by S2. This will go a long way toward absorbing the shock of the inevitable encounters with docks and the other hard objects that seem to be attracted to the topsides of the typical sailboat. Although this rail is black when the boat is new, it had dulled to a chalky gray on older S2’s we examined.The builder advertises “bronze seacocks on all through hull fittings.” These are not traditional tapered plug seacocks, but are ball valves mounted directly to through hull fittings. A proper seacock—whether it uses a ball valve or a tapered plug—has a heavy flange to allow through bolting to the hull. This is an important safety feature. Should a valve seize, it may become necessary to apply a great deal of leverage to the handle in order to open or close the valve. The deeply threaded through hull stem can easily break under these conditions, and more than one boat has been lost in this manner.We also suggest that seacocks be installed on the cockpit drain scuppers and the bilge pump outlet, both of which may be under water while the boat is sailing. Light air performance would benefit by the fairing in of the through hull fittings, particularly the head intake and discharge, both of which are far enough forward to have a significant effect on water flow past the hull.Ballast is a 3,000 pound lead casting, epoxied inside a hollow keel shell. We prefer an external lead casting bolted to the hull for its shock-absorbing qualities and ease of repair. This preference was reinforced recently when we examined an old Bristol 27 just sold by a friend. The surveyor noticed dampness near the bottom of the leading edge of the keel, which showed slight external damage. Probing the loose putty revealed some abrasion of the glass keel molding. In order to sell the boat, it was necessary to grind away a large portion of the glass at the front of the keel, dry out the ballast, and reglass the lead—a job that took several days of work and cost our friend a fair chunk of money.Much of the boat’s interior structure is plywood, glassed to the hull. Fillet bonding is neat and workmanlike with no rough edges to be found.Chainplates are conventional stainless steel flat bar, bolted to bulkheads and plywood gussets in the main cabin. These are properly backed with stainless steel pads. Due to the fact that the hull is lined throughout with a carpet-like synthetic material, it is not possible to examine the bonding of the chainplate knees to the hull. The stemhead fitting is a stainless steel weldment, through bolted to the deck and hull and reinforced inside the hull with a stainless steel gusset to prevent deflection of the deck from the pull aft of the headstay. We’d like to see a metal backup pad behind this fitting rather than the washers which are used.General construction is thoughtful and well executed, with excellent glasswork, a strong and simple hull-to-deck joint, and reasonably installed hardware and fittings.Handling Under PowerAlthough some early models of the 8.5 used a seven horsepower BMW diesel, the 1982 version employs an eight horsepower Yanmar. These small Yanmars are quite impressive, light in weight and far smoother than the company’s older rockcrushers.Because of the high freeboard and considerable windage of the 8.5, the standard engine is the absolute minimum power plant for the boat. Recognizing this fact, the company offered a 15 horsepower, two-cylinder Yanmar as an option. For another 75 pounds and $1,150, we would want this option on the boat if the ability to get places under power is a real consideration.The extra fuel consumption of the larger engine will scarcely be noticed. The 18 gallon aluminum fuel tank will probably give a range under power of over 250 miles—more than adequate for a 28 foot cruising boat.The fuel tank is located under the cockpit and is securely mounted and properly grounded. There is an easily reached fuel shut off between the engine and tank. Unfortunately, the fuel fill is located in the cockpit sole. Spilled diesel oil turns even the best fiberglass nonskid into an ice skating rink. Fuel fills should be located on deck, where spills can be efficiently washed away.Engine access is via a large removable panel on the inboard face of the quarterberth. This panel lacks any kind of handhold to make it easily removable, which will discourage regular checking of the engine oil. The top companionway step also removes for access, but it’s a long reach to the dipstick.There is no oil pan under the engine. It will be necessary to be very careful when changing oil to keep the bilge clean. We have yet to see anyone change oil and filters on a boat engine without spilling something.With the quarterberth panel removed, access for routine service is excellent. The quarterberth has remarkable headroom over, so that the mechanic will not feel like a trapped spelunker after a half hour of work. Engine removal will require some joinerwork disassembly.Handling Under SailThe S2 8.5 is no slug under sail. Her PHRF rating of 174 to 180 compares very favorably to other boats of her size and type. The Sabre 28, for example, has a rating of 198. The Pearson 28 about 195, and the O’Day 28 about 198.Part of this is no doubt due to the fact that the standard sails on the boat come from the North loft. While North’s OEM sails may not be the vertical cut Mylar-Kevlar wonders that adorn custom boats, they’re a lot better than most.S2 now uses Hall spars. The simple masthead rig is extremely clean, with airfoil spreaders and internal tangs. The boom features an internal outhaul and provision for two internally-led reefing lines, with cam cleats at the forward end of the boom.The deck-stepped mast is mounted in a stainless steel deck plate incorporating plenty of holes for the attachment of blocks. Halyards and Cunningham lead aft along the cabin house top to a pair of Lewmar #8 winches. Lewmar #16s are optional, but hardly necessary.The main is controlled by a six-part Harken rig mounted on the end of the boom, and a Kenyon traveler mounted on the aft cockpit coaming. This will work fine with the tiller-steered version of the boat. With wheel steering, the mainsheet is likely to be a nuisance to the helmsman.Because of the end-of-boom sheeting, a boom vang will be essential for full mainsail control. Ironically, the boat’s drawings show almost mid-boom sheeting, with the traveler mounted on the bridgedeck at the forward end of the cockpit. This is probably a better arrangement, although it heavily loads the center of the boom and requires more sheeting force.Owners of 8.5s have little but praise for the interior of the boat. The cabin has a wide feeling, created by pushing everything outboard. The “chart area” on the plan is a myth, as far as we can tell.Despite the fact that the shrouds are set well in from the rail, the boat lacks inboard headsail tracks. Rather, you are limited to snatch blocks shackled to the toerail track. A six-foot piece of track set inboard of the rail would be a useful addition.Standard headsail sheet winches are two-speed Lewmar #30s. Options include both larger winches and self-tailers, both of which are worth considering for either racing or cruising. The cockpit coamings are wide enough for mounting larger primaries and secondaries.The high-quality rig and sails add to the price of the S2, but they are additions well worth the cost.Deck LayoutThe deck layout of the 8.5 is clean and functional, with no toe stubbers to catch you unawares. There are two foredeck mooring cleats, but no bow chocks. The necessity to lead an anchor line well off the boat’s centerline, coupled with high freeboard forward, is likely to result in a boat which sails around on her anchor or mooring. The 8.5 has a pair of wide stainless steel chafing strips at the bow which will greatly protect the deck from the chafe of the anchor line.The 8.5’s foredeck anchor well is one of the best we’ve seen. It is shallow—just deep enough to hold an anchor and adequate rode. There are double scuppers, which offer less likelihood of clogging. The lid is held on by a full-length piano hinge, and there is a positive latch.The shallow locker well above the waterline means that water is less likely to enter through the scuppers, which can be a real problem with a deep anchor well. When the bow pitches into waves, a deep anchor well can fill with water, and if the scuppers clog with debris, you can find yourself sailing around with several hundred pounds of extra weight in the worst possible position. There is no provision for securing the bitter end of the anchor rode, but a big galvanized eyebolt installed in the well by the owner will solve that one.The running lights leave something to be desired. Their location at deck level just aft of the stem makes them vulnerable to damage when handling ground tackle. We much prefer an international style bicolor mounted on the pulpit, another two feet off the water: easier to see, and out of the way. Wiring for the running lights is exposed in the anchor well, and should be secured out of the way.A recessed teak handrail runs the full length of the cabin trunk, serving the dual function of heavy weather handhold and cabin trim piece. Its shape makes it far easier to oil or varnish than the conventional round handrail, although the wide, flat section seems somewhat awkward after years of grabbing round rails.The 8.5’s cockpit is the maximum size we’d want to see on a boat of this size. The T-shape is designed to accommodate the optional wheel steerer, yielding a somewhat odd layout for the tiller-steered version. A bench seat spans the aft end of the cockpit. Although this makes good seating in port, we doubt that you’d want anyone sitting there under sail: too much weight in the end of the boat. It does make a natural helmsman’s seat for wheel steering.The engine controls and instrument panel are also located at the aft end of the cockpit, and are basically inaccessible to the helmsman of a tiller-steered version.There are two lifting lids in the aft cockpit bench, giving access to a cavernous space under the cockpit. To be useful, dacron bags should be fitted to the inside of these lockers. Then, they’ll be handy stowage for spare sheets and blocks.There are comfortable contoured seats along each side of the cockpit, with a huge locker under the port seat. Although plywood pen boards somewhat separate this locker from the engine space under the cockpit, it would be far too easy for deeply piled junk to get knocked over the board and into the engine. This locker should be partitioned into smaller spaces unless it is to be used exclusively as a sail locker.The battery boxes, fitted at the forward end of the locker, could benefit from plywood or fiberglass lids to keep battery acid off gear which might find its way onto the batteries. The box is designed to take two batteries—one battery is standard—stored in plastic containers. A single lid covering the whole box would be more efficient.The huge cockpit will accommodate up to six for sailing, and eight for in-port partying. The cockpit seat bottoms are contoured, and the cockpit coamings slope outboard for more comfortable seating. However, the seats are both too narrow and too short for sleeping.The forward end of the cockpit is protected by a narrow bridgedeck. However, the cockpit coatings extend a full foot above the level of the bridgedeck, To block the companionway to the level of the top of the coamings will require leaving two of the three drop boards in place when sailing.Although there is moderate taper to the sides of the companionway, making it easier to remove the drop boards, it is still necessary to lift each board about five inches before it can be removed. This is far safer than many tapered companionways, where boards practically fall out if you look at them wrong. The companionway slide is one of the best we’ve seen. It’s a contoured piece of acrylic fitted with a convenient grabrail. It slides easily in extruded aluminum channels, and is fitted with a fiberglass storm hood. As on many boats, the aft cabin bulkhead slopes forward, rendering it impossible to leave the drop boards out for ventilation when it rains.BelowdecksOwners consistently praise the interior design and finishing of S2 sailboats. From looking at the 8.5, it’s pretty easy to see why.There are no exposed interior fiberglass surfaces except the head floor pan molding. The hull and cabin overhead are lined with a carpet-like synthetic fabric. While this will undoubtedly cut down on condensation, we at first wondered how this fabric would hold up over time. Inevitably, the hull liner and even the overhead will get wet. In freshwater areas, this is no problem. The water will eventually evaporate. In salt water, however, wet fabric never seems to dry. Salt draws moisture like a magnet draws steel. Since first seeing this boat, however, we’ve had good experiences with the fabric. Be sure, however, to get a good wet-or-dry vacuum to keep it clean.Interior layout is fairly conventional, with Vberths forward, and immediately aft, a full width head. The head can be closed off from both the forward cabin and the main cabin with solid doors—a real luxury in a boat this size. There is a large hanging locker in the head, and reasonable storage space for toilet articles.The word for the main cabin is “wide,” with the settees pushed as far outboard as they can go. Décor is a little heavy on the teak for our taste, but it is one of the better coordinated interiors we have seen. S2 had a good interior decorator.A fold-down dining table seats four. When folded against the bulkhead, it is held in place by a single latch, which makes us nervous.Neither settee is full length. The foot of the port settee runs under the galley counter, making it long enough for sleeping, although your feet may feel a little claustrophobic in the tiny footwell.The starboard settee is an unusual configuration. The aftermost 12" of the settee folds up to form an arm rest, leaving a gap between the end of the settee and the head of the quarterberth.Inexplicably, this gap is referred to on the accommodation plan as a “charting area,” although there is neither a standard nor an optional chart table. It’s sort of like the designer ran out of energy before completing the interior design.Over the non-existent “charting area” is the best electrical panel we’ve seen on a 28 foot boat. The panel has a locking battery switch, battery test meter, and a panel with room for 14 circuit breakers, although only half are installed on the standard boat.The space is welcome, since with the proliferation of marine electronics most electrical panels are woefully inadequate.Most quarterberths tend to induce claustrophobia. That of the 8.5 is more likely to exacerbate any tendencies you might have to agoraphobia. At last, a quarterberth which will not give you a concussion when you sit bolt upright in the middle of the night after your neighbor drags down on you in a wind shift.The standard main cabin sole is carpet-covered fiberglass. For an additional $325, teak and holly was available for the traditionalist. We’d want it. Unfortunately there is no access to the bilge in the main cabin. None. This is inexcusable, and could be dangerous. A few hours with a saber saw should solve this rather basic problem.The galley is workable and accessible, with no awkward posturing required to do the dishes. The sink gets an A+. It is a full nine inches deep, is large enough to take a frying pan, and mounted close to the centerline.In contrast, the icebox gets a C-. It is larger than normal on a boat of this size, but it drains to the bilge, has a poorly insulated top, and a tiny, uninsulated hatch without a trace of a gasket. Boo.Because of limited counter space, the two burner Kenyon alcohol stove is mounted athwartships, rather than fore and aft. This means that the stove cannot be gimballed, and that it is necessary to reach across the inboard burner to reach the outboard one. Given the fact that countertop gimballed stoves are usually dangerous, the lack of gimballing doesn’t bother us much. What does bother us is that if you want to upgrade the stove to something more functional, the limited space allocated will stretch your ingenuity.A fold down table at the end of the galley counter gives additional counter space, but it must be left up in order to use the port settee for sleeping.Roominess, excellent execution, and good color coordination are trademarks of the interiors of all S2s, and the 8.5 fits well into this enviable tradition.ConclusionsThe S2 8.5 is a good boat for cruising the Great Lakes or any coast in comfort and a certain amount of style. Her appearance may be a little modern for traditionalists, with her straight sheer and European-style cabin windows.Pricey? Yes, but when you look at the things that go into the boat—the rig, good sails, and a comfortable, well finished interior—the price may seem a bit less painful. You still pay for what you get.
2001 APREAMARE 33' PICNIC BOAT by owner
$120,000
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
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2001 Apreamare Cabinato The 33 foot is the perfect choice for extended cruising. It offers the exceptional accommodations and exquisite amenities to please the entire family. No other boats in this class can take its owners and guests in this level of luxury, comfort and safety. Capt maintain, new bottom paint, new salon cushions, engines regularly serviced, boat in excellent condition ready to be enjoyed by a new owner. A REAL YACHTSMAN ELEGANT BOAT!!! Twin Yanmar Diesel 6LP STE 300 HP Each, low hours Northern Light 6KW Generator Fire boy Fire suppression system 16,000 BTU air condition Bow thruster Large head with separate shower stall Salt and fresh water cockpit shower Large swim platform with ladder Water heater Fridge/freezeer, microwave, 2 burners electric cook top Trim tab Electric windlass Spare propellers Fwd cushions, cockpit cushions Teak deck Bimini top GPS chart plotter with integrated radar depth sounder Radar Auto pilot Vhf radio Ais Sony Cd player with speakers Wall mount flat TV Fuel 185 gal Water 63 gal More... For sale by Owner. Read more: http://miami.ebayclassifieds.com/boats/fort-lauderdale/2001-apreamare-33-by-owner/?ad=37032845#ixzz3Q7wfRZDo
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COMPLETELY RE-DONE / RE-FIT ULTIMATE SPORT FISH ING MACHINE
$25,000
Blue Point, New York
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PLEASE NOTE - THE BOAT WAS HAULED OUT A FEW DAYS PRIOR TO HURRICANE SANDY AND SUSTAINED NO DAMAGE. INCLUDED IN THE AUCTION PRICE IS STORAGE THROUGH THE 8/31/14 IF YOU CHOOSE TO KEEP THE BOAT AT THE MARINA. (Storage thereafter is $200 month) I WILL DELIVER THE BOAT BY WATER PERSONALLY TO THE NEWARK NEW JERSEY PORT FOR THE PRICE OF FUEL FOR INTERNATIONL BUYERS. WILL SELL WITH THE TOWER FOR AN ADDITONAL $15,000 Please let me know and I will adjust the ebay auction buy-it-now price. Note tower will remain on boat till sold Up for Auction is a very rare find no less in this kind of condition. The Bertram 38 is one of the best sport fish hull designs ever made. The Cadillac of fishing machines. This boat has been cared for its entire life and it shows. It has been re-fit and updated in almost every possible way over the last 10 years. From engines to exhaust tips, wiring, lighting, outlets, gauges, paint, cabinetry, ceilings, carpet, bedding, The Tower, the list could go on and on and on. A small fortune and many many hours have been spent upgrading this boat in almost every possible way. Pretty much the only thing left from 1965 is a bullet proof hull with the structural integrity of a Sherman tank that rides like a Cadillac in almost any sea condition. Structural integrity –The structural integrity of this boat is beyond comprehension and description in words. The one piece hull is made up of layer upon layer of hand laid heavy thick fiberglass and resin and is probably 3 times stronger than anything you can find today and twice as thick as any hull that has been made in the last 30 years. Looking inside the hull you see results of and the definition of true craftsmanship and the pride that went into building this boat. Something you could never find today at any price. The strength of this hull provides a serious extra measure of safetyin the event you encounter any floating debris like a telephone pole or tree. The keel of this boat could probably withstand a major impact that would crack the hull and sink most other boats. If you properly installed a sharp angled piece of heavy steel on the forward entry point where the hull first hits the water….. you most probably could get the ABS (Amercian Bureau of Shipping) approval to change the boats rating to “ICE BREAKER” class-LOL. PLEASE SEE 3 LINKS TO 188 ADDITIONAL PICTURES OF THE BOAT AT THE BOTTOM OF THE EBAY ADVERTISEMENT Engines: Powered by economical Twin Detroit Diesel 6v53 naturals with less than 350hrs since being completely rebuilt. They start right up, run great and smoke free. If maintained properly these naturally aspirated engines can last a lifetime. Unlike their turbo counterparts they are not pushed to their limits and beat on to drain every ounce of horsepower at the expense of reliability. The tranny’s shift properly and all controls operate as they should. The running gear is corrosion free. The bronze props, stainless shafts and struts are in excellent shape and vibration free. With 420hp and 880 ft. / lbs. of torque the boat will cruise at 15-16 knots though almost any condition and max out at around 20kts. Wiring: The boat has been completely rewired to perfection using the highest grade marine wiring though out. On the 110 side from the 2 - 30 amp shore power receptacles to the 110 volt breakers, switches, outlets, lights and 30 amp battery charger and everything in between. On the 12 volt side from the battery cables to the 12 volt breaker panel, switches, gauges, pumps and everything in between was all re-done to perfection. The Tower: NOT INCLUDED IN THE 25K AUCTION PRICEConstructed by a true old school craftsman and custom made for this boat, it is a work of art. Installed about 5 years ago it is in near immaculate condition. The towers design, structural integrity and how it is perfectly mounted on the boat is mind boggling. You could probably lift the boat with a helicopter with the proper lines and rigging tied to the tower-LOL. It must be seen in person to truly be appreciated. It is only rivaled by structural integrity of the boat. If you called Atlantic Towers to replicate this tower there is no doubt in my mind it would be atleast 25k-30k installed.Here is a link to a used tinker toy tower compared to this one that the are asking almost 11,500 for and if you look in the link at the spec of the pictures in the tower ad it was over a 40k factory add on when new http://www.ebay.com/itm/HATTERAS-YACHTS-53-CONVERTIBLE-12-1-2-FOOT-ALUMINUM-MARLIN-BOAT-TOWER/141131261043?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D23423%26meid%3D7714795562983720754%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D10050%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D200819663329 The Hull: From the bottom paint to from the rub rail the original gel coat is in excellent condition with barely a nick or ding anywhere and has a beautiful glossy finish. The bottom is in amazing shape. It only has a few coats of bottom paint since all the old paint was removed. Topside was recently painted, shines away and is in very nice condition. Thru- hulls: All thru-hulls have been changed and updated about 10 years ago. They are in great shape / open and close freely and are leak free. The Interior: The interior is in amazing shape. Some of the side walls and ceilings of the interior is actually original Bertram gel coat and have a glossy shine like new. The ceilings in each and every room where they are not the original gel coat were redone few years ago using high end marine fabric and trimmed with teak, they are in mint near flawless condition throughout. This year brand new heavyweight Berber carpet was installed throughout the entire boat. The V-Berth bed and 2 twin bed mattresses were also replaced this year with high end custom fit dense temper pedic type foam beds. They are so comfortable you don’t want to get out of bed in the morning. All new bedding this year and curtains were replaced as well. A few years ago brand new custom made teak cabinets were installed in the salon that hold the built in fridge, kitchen sink, microwave, 2 burner electric stove, stainless toaster oven and has plenty of additional storage as well. In the salon running the entire starboard side all new matching teak panels were also installed. Fuel System / Range: The boat is currently rigged with a 350 gallon fiberglass fuel tank that is in nice shape and leak and issue free. When the engines were rebuilt all new fuel lines were installed throughout. At a mellow cruise of about 14-15 knots your burning around 6-7 gph a side giving you a range of about 300 miles, coming home with about 20% of fuel. There is room to add up to more 3 tanks if you want to extend the range. The forward cockpit hatch which had the old antiquated generator could easily fit a 175-200 gallon tank or if you wanted to save that spot to re-install a generator you could add Saddle tanks on the outside of each engine gaining about 100-125 gal each, depending on your preference. Comforts: There is a built in 12,000 Btu A/C in the salon that cools the whole boat very nicely and also a 5000btu thru hatch portable unit for the forward cabin if you want A/C with the cabin door closed for privacy. There is a brand new hot water heater and its also equipped with a 100 gallon water tank so you have hot and cold water in the shower, bathroom and kitchen sinks. The head, holding tank and all plumbing lines and pumps in between are only a few years old and function as they should. Storage: Throughout the boat is plenty of storage. You can store 6 rods in ceiling of salon and 6 in forward cabin. The Forward cabin has 2 huge carpeted lockers, 2 dry storage areas under the V berth itself at the foot of the bed and under the bed itself. There is also an additional closet in the hall. The second cabin which contains 2 beds has a closet, a huge built in shelved storage area by the lower bunk and a built in night table with plenty of draw space as well. The bathroom has a very large 2 shelved storage area above the sink and plenty of storage below the built in sink set up as well. Lighting: Throughout the boat there is a mix of 12 volt and 110 lighting in each cabin area. All running, cabin and spreader lights operate as they should. Link to 72 Additional Exterior Picture Slideshowhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/13668080@N04/sets/72157630962680462/show/ Link to 75 Additional Interior Picture Slideshowhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/13668080@N04/sets/72157630962870792/show/ Link to 41 Additional Mechanical Picture Slideshowhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/13668080@N04/sets/72157630963036100/show/ PERFORMANCE and SAFETY: Manueverability – At low speeds the boat responds instantly. You can spin her on a dime. This is because the chines are above the water where they won’t dig in. In high speed turns, her outside chine rises well clear of the water where it won’t catch and trip, while her longitudinal steps stop side slips. LESS ROLL – In a Beam sea, the boat is very stable because the V sections develop a strong righting action. Longitudinal steps act as bilge keels which dampen roll. The boat also sits proportionally deeper and is less disturbed by surface waves. Steers easy in following Sea –Because the Bertram has neither flat sections aft nor a sharp forefoot she performs very well steering in following seas at high or low speeds or trying to get in the inlet on a bad day. Unlike the flat aft sections of many conventional hulls that will pitch forward, yaw or even broach in bad weather. Softer ride –Due to the hull design not having an aft planning surface to jolt and jar the boat, the boat will ride more easily through rough seas and be able to cruise comfortably at considerable higher speeds than conventional boats of the same size. Drier Ride– The Bertram’s longitudinal steps throw water out low and flat where it won’t blow back aboard. I COULD GO ON AND ON FOR ANOTHER FEW PAGES BUT I WILL STOP MYSELF-LOL Bottom Line: I hate to sell her and would love to keep her but my 58 Hatteras is way too jealous of all the attention the Bertram has been getting lately, so I have to let her go. This boat will only be sold to someone who will appreciate her as I and her previous owners have. I reserve the right to cancel the sale if I feel you do not appreciate the boat.I’m open to a reasonable offer for a quick deal or possibly an interesting trade. TERMS: $500 immediate deposit through PayPal, with the balance due by cash, personal check or wire transfer only within 7 days. Neither title nor possession of the boat will be released until all funds are cleared. Buyer is responsible for all shipping costs. Included in the buy-it-now price is storage on land through 8/31/14. You are welcome to set up an appointment to come and see the boat in person anytime during the auction. If you have any questions please feel free to email them or leave your name and number and best time to call and I will get back to you as soon as possible.I am a man of my word and stand behind my description, if you come see the boat within 7 days of the auction and can find one word in the description that is in accurate I will refund your $500 deposit. In return I expect you to follow through with the purchase of the boat based on the terms as described. If you cannot abide by the terms, please do not bid. I WILL NEED APPROXIMATELY 10-12 BUSINESS DAYS TO HAVE THE TOWER PROFESSIONALLY REMOVED The boat is for sale locally as well and I reserve the right to end the listing at any time. Thank You and good luck with the auction. FOR INTERNATIONAL BUYERS ONLY: Included in the auction price is personal delivery by me of the boat by water to the Newark New Jersey Port for the price of fuel cost only.
2006 Regal 3060 Window Express
$82,500
Selbyville, Delaware
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Private Seller (302) 436-5320 Photos Photo 1 Photo 2 Photo 3 Photo 4 Photo 5 Photo 6 Photo 7 Photo 8 Photo 9 Photo 10 Photo 11 Photo 12 Photo 13 Photo 14 Photo 15 Photo 16 Photo 17 Photo 18 Photo 19 Photo 20 Photo 21 Photo 22 Photo 23 Photo 24 Photo 25 Photo 26 Photo 27 Photo 28 Photo 29 Photo 30 Photo 31 Photo 32 Photo 33 Photo 34 Photo 35 Photo 36 Photo 37 Photo 38 Close Request Information * Name First Name * Email Telephone (optional) Best Time to Contact Anytime Morning Mid-day Evening Question/Comments (optional) Shop Safely: Protect Your Money. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. Contact Seller 2006 Regal 3060 Window Express,For sale is a 2006 Regal 3060 Window Express. This vessels astonishing design shows in many ways. From the exterior, your first sight shows the nice sleek hull lines, the panoramic views from the cabin windows that, also, bring in tons of natural lighting. No need to feel like youre in a confined area. Between the intake of sunlight and a very spacious cabin area, you feel the freedom of a true vacation with this boat. Whether you are in the cabin or the deck you will find your cold beverage of choice in one of the two refrigerators. When its time to cook the boat features an outside propane grill or an all electric, double burner grill in the galley. Dont worry about entertainment; it comes standard with this boat. Deck and arch lights illuminate the outside area. Inside lights are plentiful. Kenwood offers full sound all over the cabin and deck areas. Steering wheel controls make it easy for the captain to control the volume and track. Ready to turn off the upgraded 5.7 liter Volvo gas engines (260HP ea.) and relax? Walk up the well padded steps through the windshield. The top, forward deck offers plenty of sunbathing space on custom cushions. The windless anchor, that the captain can control from the helm, can be raised or lowered from foot pedals on the forward deck by the bow. Spend the night falling asleep to the 19 tv/ dvd flat screen. Put your guest to comfortable resting place in the aft cabin queen bed. The bow table lowers to a larger sleeping area, or leave the table up and have two double bed sized sleeping bunks. The cabin has a large bathroom/ shower. This has a vacu-flush toilet contained by a 35 gallon holding tank. Clean up and shower using the ships hot and cold water system. The benefit of having a 5 KW generator is having hot water all of the time, as well as A/C and heat throughout the ship! The cockpit area can be enclosed, with the included custom canvas, and has a heat/ AC duct. With the generator installed in a sound proof case, there is no reason to add a power inventor. Choose not to shower? Dip in the water for a relaxing swim. Made easy to splash off the large swim deck, not far off the water level. Coming out is even easier than jumping in. The platform has a centered swim latter and boarding handles. Climb up and wash off using a hot/cold water hose and then grab your towel out of the rear storage bin. This bin is great for dock lines and buoys too. Next step is to set free to the next spot! The boats fuel capacity of 150 gallons is plenty of fuel to enjoy a few small trips to managing a nice private weekend gate a way. This 2006 Regal wont last long. It has every feature Regal has offered! Call today to schedule a viewing. It can be shipped anywhere. $82500, 3024365320 Be sure: Get a boat history report|Finance this boat|Get an insurance quote|
Used Outboard Motors & Repairs 619
$1
El Cajon, California
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Posted Over 1 Month
We buy, sell, trade, tune-up, and repair all brands, years, sizes and lengths of outboard motors including: Johnson, Evinrude, Mercury, Sears, Wards, Mariner, British Seagull, SeaKing, Clinton, Elgin, Eska, Aero Marine, Gamefisher, Cruise'n Carry, Force, Ted Williams, and numerous others in addition to: Honda, Nissan, Suzuki, Tanaka, Tohatsu, Yamaha, etc. We also carry used propellers for most of the above brands (it is best to bring your old propeller or outboard with you for a perfect fit). We have some lower units, power tilt and trim units, various used electric starters and small electric trolling motors for sale (great for kids on a small boat on a lake). Turn-around time, for carry-in repairs is about 5 business days or less.(depending on parts availability). A larger motor attached to your boat usually takes 1 to 2 days. We also rebuild electric and pull-starters for all motors and we have a huge selection of used outboard motors for sale ranging from 1hp to 250hp. All our motors have been serviced and ready to go. We do remove and install large outboard motors of all sizes. Call Marty at 619 - 972 - 9998 to discuss your motor. If no answer, please leave a message and I will get back to you as soon as possible. Please repeat your phone number twice because sometimes it is not clear. Often we can help you fix your problem on the phone at no cost. (Please no E-mails or texts). When you bring it in, we will give your outboard motor a compression and spark test, diagnose your engine, and tell you what it needs in repairs to get it back in good running condition. We will repair your motor at your request, answer your questions and make suggestions. Most of our business is by recommendation of satisfied customers. We will do everything possible to make you one. If we do not have the size or brand of outboard that you are looking for, ask us to put your name on our list and we will call you if and when such an outboard arrives. ------------------------------------- USEFUL TIPS & INFORMATION: ------------------------------ (1) All 2 stroke outboard engines made after 1963 require a 50:1 mixture (3 ounces of 2 stroke outboard motor oil per gallon of gas). The actual amount is 2.6 ounces per gallon (a little extra won't hurt, but less can cause severe damage to your engine). NOTE: NEVER use 100:1 as recommended by some manufacturers. It will cause your engine to lose compression and die prematurely. The only lubrication that your engine gets is from the oil that is mixed with the gas, therefore use 50:1 to be safe. (2) Older outboards (pre 1963) require double the amount of oil 25:1 mixture (6 ounces per gallon), some require a 16:1 mixture (8 ounces per gallon), and BRITISH SEAGULL engines require a 10:1 mixture (13 ounces per gallon). (3) 4 stroke outboards do not need oil mixed with the gas. Make sure the crankcase is full of oil (check the dipstick). If by mistake you ran your 4 stroke with oil mixed with gas do not be concerned. It's OK. (4) Always carry a minimum amount of tools like screwdrivers (blade and Phillips head), socket set including a spark plug socket, combination wrenches, vice grips, pliers, fire extinguisher, drift or punch to drive out a broken shear pin, a can of WD - 40, and a spray can of carburetor cleaner for starting emergencies, and a few extra new spark plugs (pre-gapped) in case yours become fouled, a new gas filter if your gas line has one, a tire pressure gauge, a long magnet and (extra-long) forceps (in case you drop a nut or a bolt), and a small flashlight. AVOID USING STARTER FLUID because it contains ether (bad for outboards). Also carry a pair of extra shear pins and cotter pins (for most outboards less than 35hp). And also a few small hose clamps to tighten a loose or leaking fuel line (see tip #53 below). (5) For small outboards under 40hp, keep the clamp handle screws greased so they will not freeze up from oxidation or salt. (6) For all outboards that have remote steering, grease the steering cable often if you go out in salt water to prevent the cable from "seizing up" and causing a costly repair. (7) For all outboards, starting it several times a year keeps everything "limber". (8) For all outboards, flushing your outboard in fresh water for 5 minutes after each saltwater use will prevent costly cooling system repairs. NOTE: Do not flush your motor in saltwater. Use a barrel, or a garden hose hooked up to outboard "earmuffs" or any other device made for your motor. (9) If you carry your small outboard motor in the bed of a pick-up truck, always tie it down securely or it might break the tiller or shift handle by rolling. (10) For all outboards, check your propeller for broken blades or chunks missing from any blade. Operating any outboard with uneven prop blades will cause vibration and damage to seals and other internal parts of the lower unit. Also it is best to carry a spare prop. (Approx. cost $50 for a used one) . (11) Spray a thin coat of WD 40 all around the powerhead of your outboard. It will not make your engine run better, but it will protect it from rust and salt deposits. (12) For pull start outboards, check the entire pull cord for signs of wear. You wouldn't want to break a pull cord when you are out fishing. (13) For electric start outboards, always carry 2 fully charged batteries in case one battery loses its charge. (14) For small (tiller steering) outboards up to 35hp, attach a short chain, cable or heavy rope (one end attached to your outboard's clamp section, and the other end attached to the transom of your boat) as a safety to prevent your motor from falling overboard. (15) For all outboards, in the event that you remove the top cowling to check your engine, put the cowling down away from the edge of the boat since any wave might send the cowling to the bottom of the ocean or lake. It will be difficult to locate a replacement. (16) For all outboards, most engine failure is a result of overheating. Always check the temp. gauge (if you have one) or by watching the "pisser". If you see steam coming out, shut the engine to avoid costly damage. Check the bottom of the lower unit to see if you picked up some vegetation, or a plastic bag which may be blocking your water intake. If you do not find anything, you may have a bad impeller or a bad water-pump housing. The best thing to do is, try (if possible) to get towed back by any good natured person in the area, or call "VESSEL ASSIST". If you do not have "Vessel Assist Insurance", it will be quite costly. To avoid all of the above, it is best to change your impeller every 2 years or sooner. Whether you use your outboard frequently, occasionally, or just once in 2 years, it is time more than wear that ruins the impeller. (17) If you own a boat (any kind), always remember to replace the drain plug in the stern (rear) before you go out, or the boat will slowly fill with water. This event happens to everyone at some time. It is best to make a check list and review it before you launch. (Also keep a spare drain plug near the drain-hole in your boat in case the original one gets "lost"). (18) For portable outboards, it is best (if possible) to mount the motor on land before you launch in the ocean, because any wave can cause you to drop your motor while you are mounting it. (19) For outboards with an integral gas tank (one that is built-in to your engine), always carry extra fuel and a FUNNEL, or much of the extra gas will be lost when pouring to re-fill your integral tank. (20) For pull-start outboards and some bigger electric starting engines, you should have a separate emergency starter rope with a handle in case your starter spring fails, or the rope tears, or the electric starter or battery fails. (21) For all outboards, it is wise to remove the propeller after several times of use, in order to remove the fishing line that sometimes collects there. This fishing line can cut through the prop seal and cause the lower unit to leak oil and take in water. (a costly repair). (22) Gasoline should be fresh (not more than 6 months old). If you choose to keep it longer, add the correct amount of STABIL. (23) For all trailered boats, (large and small) you should check the transom of your boat for stress cracks (caused by the motor bouncing because of bumps in the road). To prevent such cracks you should get a TRANSOM SAVER which takes the weight off your boat's transom and transfers it to the trailer. (It costs about $75, and can save you thousands). (24) For all outboards, check the lower unit gear oil. It should be dark brown or black in color. Water or coffee-n-cream color in the oil indicates a lower unit seal problem. Smelly/stinky oil is usually OK as long as the color is good. The gear oil should be changed annually. (25) For outboards up to 35hp, if you cannot get the boat to plane, try adjusting the tilt pin. If the boat still rides with its "nose" high in the air, it is probably because you have too much weight in the rear or (you may possibly have the wrong length lower unit). One remedy is to install a "WHALE TAIL" on the cavitation plate of your outboard to cause a greater lift in the rear. (It costs about $50). (26) For all boat trailers, you should get a BEARING BUDDY for each wheel. Its purpose is to keep the whole hub and wheel bearings greased and to prevent any water from entering the bearing zone when you back into the water. Keep it full of grease (with a grease gun). Without BEARING BUDDYS you can expect the bearings to seize-up sometime when you are trailering. You might snap an axle, lose control of your trailer, drop your boat off the trailer onto the road, or worse. BEARING BUDDYS are inexpensive and easy to put on. They can be found at any boat shop or automotive parts place. (27) For outboard engines that are partially submerged in saltwater for 3 months or longer, you can expect the lower unit's aluminum housing to begin disintegrating (dissolving). If you cannot keep the lower unit out of the saltwater, you should attach some zinc anodes to the cavitation plate. They will help save your lower unit. Cost of anodes $5 - $55 at any boat shop. (28) For all do-it-yourselfers, it is best to put grease or NEVER SEIZE on all the bolts that you remove and replace, to prevent rust and salt build-up on those bolts. (29) For all outboards, service your engine regularly. To do so not only prevents problems, but allows you or your mechanic to grease all the bolts that are removed and replaced so that those bolts will come out easily "without breaking" in the future. (30) For electric start outboards, at the first sign of starter trouble, get the starter serviced before you take the boat out fishing. Be happy that it gave you a warning. (31) It would be wise to carry an extra fuel tank "quick connector" fitting that "snaps" into your engine fuel fitting. The "O" ring that they all have sometimes goes bad causing the engine to suck too much air instead of fuel. The engine will then stall or run poorly. Cost about $7 - $20. (32) We sell many large 2 stroke outboards to unfortunate people who relied on their automatic oil feeders known as "VRO". We suggest that you disconnect your VRO and add oil to your gas the old fashioned way. Your engine can become totally ruined within seconds when your VRO fails. Don't take our word for this suggestion. Ask other outboard mechanics for their opinions. . (33) It is suggested that you do not go full throttle on any outboard, because it over-stresses your motor. You should use about 95% of your maximum power. This can be accomplished by putting in a "stop" near the end of your throttle or just remembering to back off a little. This should save gas, wear and tear to your engine, thus making it last longer. (It is similar to driving your car with the gas pedal to the floor) (34) For outboards that use portable gasoline tanks (2-12 gallons), it is wise to use a good plastic or aluminum gas tank. (An aluminum tank is hard to find). The reason for using aluminum or plastic is because they will never rust. A rusty tank will probably clog your gas filter or carburetor when the rust-dust gets there. You should keep the plastic tank away from the direct rays of the sun which will cause it to become brittle and crack. You should replace your plastic gas tank after a few years as needed. (35) For all outboards, never store your outboard motor upside down or it may seize from the water residue that will drain into the powerhead causing the internal parts to rust. It is best to store it vertically. (36) For small outboards (carrying type), it is wise to run your motor out of fuel before you take it off your boat. The reason is to prevent the gas that remains in the carburetor from spilling onto the carpet in your car or trunk when you lie the motor down. (37) For outboards that are bolted to the transom of a fiberglass boat, make sure that MARINE silicone is used to coat the mounting bolts and to fill the mounting bolt holes. Apply the silicone liberally. This will prevent water from getting into the bolt holes and save your transom from rotting. Behind the fiberglass is wood. The wood will rot over time if water gets to it. (38) For all outboards, never run your engine "dry" (without water) or it will seriously damage your impeller within 1 minute. You might not realize this, and the next time you go out boating or fishing your engine may overheat. (39) For all trailerable boats, it is wise to attach a safety chain from the "pulling-eye" at the front of your boat to the area near the winch. If your pulling strap suddenly breaks, the safety chain will stop your boat from coming off the trailer in transit. (40) For all outboards, when you change the gear oil, be certain that when you replace the oil screws, that each of the 2 screws has a plastic (or composition) flat washer to prevent oil from leaking out and water from leaking in. Sometimes the washers get stuck in the "screw well". That is OK. Replace the screws and tighten securely. NOTE: If the flat washer is missing, DO NOT replace with an "O" ring. It will surely fail. (41) For all outboards, it is wise to replace the lower oil drain screw with a magnetic elongated drain screw. It will catch any small loose steel particles that break off within the gearcase, warning you that a problem may be developing there. Approx. cost for a magnetic oil screw $8.00 at any boat shop. (42) For all outboards, when changing gears from NEUTRAL to FORWARD, or from NEUTRAL to REVERSE, first lower your speed to minimum. Do not "ease" the shifter into place. Be decisive! Slowly shifting into forward or reverse will cause the gears to grind and lead to costly repairs. (43) For all sailboats with outboard motors, be certain that your outboard motor does not pick-up out of the water when the sailboat rocks. One remedy is to lower the engine mount (if possible), or get an outboard motor with a longer shaft, or else the impeller may become damaged and fail, causing your outboard to overheat. (44) For 2 stroke outboards, it is wise to add outboard motor oil at the same time that you purchase gas. Waiting until you get home increases the chance that you will forget to add oil. Running your outboard without oil can destroy your engine within 15 seconds (a very costly error). (45) For small 4 stroke engines, when transporting your outboard off the boat or when storing it, it is best to keep it in a vertical position. If you must lie it down, make sure that it lies according to the manufacturer's instructions. Lying it down on the wrong side will cause the engine oil to seep out. Always check the oil level with the dipstick before you start any 4 stroke outboard. If your engine oil level is low, you can add any standard automotive oil. (46) To tell if a boat leaks without taking it to a lake or ocean, use a garden hose to fill the bottom of the boat with water. If the water leaks out of the bottom, the boat surely has a leak and it may show you exactly where to repair it. (47) Be smart: DO NOT LEND YOUR OUTBOARD MOTOR OR MOTORBOAT TO ANYONE. If you do, don't be surprised by the motor problems you will have have when it is returned. (48) For uncovered boats left outside between usages, remove the drain plug so your boat will not fill up with rainwater. Check the drain hole periodically to remove leaves, dirt, etc. Be sure to replace the drain plug before you go boating. (49) For all boats that are trailered, it is unwise to tow even a short distance without one or 2 spare tires. If you get a flat tire and have no spare, you can expect a mostly ruined fishing or boating day. I recommend 2 spare tires because in the event that you use your spare because of a flat tire, you no longer have a spare. NOTE: Many people prevent weathering of their spares by carrying them in their trunk. (50) For all trailer users, it is wise to have a 12 volt tire inflator that plugs into your cigarette lighter or attaches to your car battery. If your trailer tires are low they could possibly blow-out or become flat. A 12 volt tire inflator will take a few minutes to restore the required air pressure etched on the tire by the manufacturer. Cost: $15-$40. (51) It is wise to make a check- list of all the things you will need when you go boating or fishing so you will not forget anything. Write it on thick stiff paper so it will not crumble and can be used repeatedly, and you can add to the list as needed. (52) For all outboards, if your motor runs in neutral but it will not move in forward or reverse, it might have broken shear pin, or a faulty propeller, or a loose shift rod. Do not assume that the gears are bad until you eliminate those 3 items. (53) For all outboards, check all gasoline hoses. Today's gasoline contains alcohol which hardens and /or deteriorates most old hoses. They rot from the inside and cause problems with your carburetor and /or sometimes cause a dangerous gas leak and loss of power. It would be wise to change the hoses annually to prevent problems. The cost of hoses is approx. $2-$10 at any automotive shop. Bring a sample with you. Make sure that the new hoses are alcohol resistant. (54) For all sailboats that are in slips and use outboard motors mounted onto an outside kicker bracket. When mounting or removing your outboard it is wise to maneuver your boat so that the outboard motor is over the floating dock. This can be accomplished by backing up your sailboat so that the motor is not directly above water, but above the walkway. The purpose is to prevent the outboard from falling out of your hands when mounting or dismounting it. Many people have dropped their outboards into the water by trying to mount them while leaning over the stern. (55) For all trailers, make sure that the ball is securely fastened to the coupler before pulling the trailer. Sometimes the coupler "looks" as though it is fastened, but it is not. The trailer may become undone and cause havoc on the road. It only takes a few seconds to carefully check it before you tow. COST: zero, SAVINGS: perhaps a life. (56) For all trailerable boats, always check your trailer lights. The cops are out there with spare tickets anxiously waiting to give them out. It is also safer if all your lights are working. Backing your trailer into a lake or saltwater will often ruin your trailer lights. The cost of repairing the lights is considerably less than the cost of a ticket and a loss of time at the courthouse. P.S. You can also get a ticket if your safety chain is not properly attached. (57) For all outboards it is wise to buy or make any device that will stop or slow down a thief who would like to steal your engine. If it takes a thief more than I minute to remove your engine, he will probably go elsewhere. It is best if everyone made their own device so that the thief will not be able to figure out a system for fast removal. (58) For all outboards, always carry a metal scraper, or stainless steel wool, or at least some emery cloth, or sandpaper. Sometimes your motor will not start because the battery cable terminals are dirty or corroded, or other wire terminals or ground connections may be corroded. The emery cloth or sandpaper may restore a clean connection to wherever it is needed. (59) For all outboards sitting idle for long periods of time, check the wires (not the spark plug wires) by shaking them with your fingers. If the insulation is brittle and crumbles you must replace the wires before starting your engine because they might short-out and cause costly damage to your electrical components. They can also cause a fire under the hood. This happens mostly to old Mercury outboards, but it can happen to any brand. (60) If you made a checklist, add this to it: Swing or crank the trailer jack wheel up and out of the way after attaching your hitch, or it might get damaged or break off when pulling the boat for as little as a few inches. (61) For small outboards (up to 25hp), if you notice that your outboard is not "pissing" water, don't panic. It might be a clogged "pee" hole or a clogged intake. Check if the engine is HOT. If it IS HOT shut it down immediately. If it is NOT HOT, push a wire (the thickness of a paper clip) into the "pee" hole. This might open the clogged passage. Also check the intake screen (at the bottom of the engine near the propeller) for debris. (62) For all outboards, if you remove your propeller (for any reason), before you put it back on, it is wise to grease the propeller shaft to prevent the propeller from "freezing" to the propeller shaft (because of salt and/or rust). If the propeller is already " frozen" and it will not come off (after you tried tapping it with a hammer and cussing), you may have to cut it off with an electric hand grinder or something similar. Sometimes a propane torch will burn out the rubber insert that holds the propeller together. Neither method is pleasant. A little grease now can save you a lot of time and money in the future. NOTE: Do not hit the propeller hard with a hammer or you might bend the propeller shaft which will cause costly internal lower unit damage when you go boating. (63) For all boat owners, it is advisable to purchase liability insurance for your vessel because you are responsible for any damage or injury that is caused by your boat or its wake. (64) For most gas tanks (metal and plastic), do not fill to the top with gas. Give the gasoline room to expand during hot weather, or the pressure inside the tank may cause the gas to overflow, the tank to rupture, distort, or generate small cracks at its top etc. Sometimes the cracks may not be visible, but during the rainy season (unknown to you) water may seep into the tank through those cracks. You will not be able to start your engine if there is water in the gas. (65) For all saltwater fishermen, it is wise to carry a thermos of HOT water or coffee in case you catch a sculpin and get stuck by its poisonous fins. Pouring HOT water on the injury will immediately neutralize the poison. Using cold water to stop the pain will make it worse. Ask your medical doctor. (66) For all outboard motors, if your motor runs great with the hood off, but runs terrible with the hood on, you may have an exhaust leak that is fouling your carburetor. Consult your mechanic for a remedy. (67) For all outboards, if you hear electrical arcing, pulsating or buzzing noises when it is running, you may have an electrical problem. A good way to investigate the problem is to run the outboard at night where it is dark and look below the hood. If you see sparks, clean and tighten the connections or change the part that is sparking as soon as possible because the sparks can start a fire. (68) For all boat trailers, if you notice that your boat is sagging to one side, the trailer may have a broken leaf in its set of springs. If so, get it fixed promptly before another leaf breaks because of the added stress. (69) For all outboards, check the water intake near the bottom of your motor for a broken or "plugged-up" screen. Clean or replace if broken. (70) For all boat, car, and truck owners, if you have a build-up of acid corrosion on your battery post, pour very hot water onto it. The corrosion will immediately vanish. (71) For outboards over 10 years old that have foam-rubber glued to the inside of the hood by the manufacturer, be sure to REMOVE ALL OF IT by any means because the foam will flake-off and plug up your carburetor. DO IT NOW!!! Also remove any dust, or leaves because your carburetor will suck any loose material into it like a vacuum cleaner. (72) For all outboards, it is wise to start and run your outboard at home for 10 minutes before you go out boating or fishing. Sometimes your motor will not start. You do not want to have trouble starting at the lake or ocean. It is best to deal with the problem on land. Be sure not to start it without water. (73) For all boat trailers, you will need a jack and a lug-wrench that fits your trailer's lug nuts. If they are rusty you may need a length of steel pipe to give you more leverage with the lug wrench. (It also helps to spray W-40 on everything during removal). (74) It is wise to often check the tire pressure in your spare tire because it may be very low. It can lose air, by just "sitting". (75) To determine if your (questionable) boat battery is good, it will need a "load test". For an accurate reading, you should charge-up your battery for about 2-3 hrs. A load test takes about 10 seconds. Most auto parts shops will load test your battery for free. (76) For all outboards, many of them take about 1-2 minutes to warm up. In that time your motor may stall, misfire, run-rough, etc. It may need more choke or less choke depending on how much gas is in the carburetor or carburetors (if you have more than one). Be sure that the "pump-up ball" is hard and the carburetor(s) is full of gas. (77) For all boaters, you can expect that at some time in the future your outboard motor will not start or re-start while you are out fishing. If you can afford it, it is wise to carry an auxiliary motor, or mount one on the stern. It should be between 4 hp and 25 hp depending on the size of your boat. It can also be used to save gas when you are slow-trolling for fish. (78) For all 2 stroke outboards, if you notice oil "leaking" near the foot of the motor, it is NORMAL because all the oil in the gas that went into the engine for lubrication must either "burn" or drip-out after the motor is shut down. It is wise to use an oil drip pan under the lower unit to prevent a stain on your driveway or elsewhere. (79) For users of small boats that use outboards, to avoid painful blisters bring along a pair of leather gloves along with oars in case your motor won't start and you have to row. NOTE: Most boaters are aware of the above suggestions, but not everyone. I hope that I may have saved someone the inconvenience of having a bad day on the water. If I think of any more tips, I will add them to the list. Perhaps you should make a copy of the tips as a reminder.
